BitterSweet

An Obsession with All Things Handmade and Home-Cooked

A Meditative Meal

23 Comments

Not so far from the maddening crowds of Manhattan midtown, there sits an oasis of tranquility, hidden in plain sight. Prompted to remove your shoes before entering the dining room itself, this simple gesture simultaneously suggests that all other extraneous distractions be left at the door before proceeding. Adhering as closely to tradition as an entirely vegan Korean restaurant can, the experience of dining at Hangawi is almost as noteworthy as the food itself.

Presented as a modern temple of cuisine, it may be understandably intimidating at first glance, but waiters will kindly guide the curious, the clueless, and the seasoned eater all with equal grace. Even if you’ve never tasted kimchi before or couldn’t tell bibimbap from bulgogi, you’ll be able to find a meal that satisfies. Entering into this serene cocoon within the city, my most memorable prior experiences led me to believe that Korean food would taste somewhat like spicier Chinese takeout, which is to say homogenized, Americanized fast food. It was about time I got a new perspective on this previously foreign food culture.

Lightening the serious mood with a splash of iced tea, beverages are poured right at the table into purposefully imperfect ceramic tea cups, spacious enough to rival the pedestrian venti latte. Pomegranate Iced Tea, with its clear ice cubes sparkling within luscious crimson liquid, is a study in restraint. Tart without being aggressive, gently sweetened to take the edge off, and bearing a well-rounded fruity flavor, even such a generous pour goes down easily. Awareness of the sweltering heat and humidity just beyond those insulated walls vanished after a few restorative sips.

Diving head-first into the unknown, I was clamoring to try Todok Salad above all other dishes. Never before had this unusual root crossed my path, despite how common it seems to be in Asian cultures. Frequently described as “poor man’s ginseng,” todok has similar purported health benefits, but what I was more interested in was the taste. Fibrous yet still tender, the pale white shreds were very subtle in flavor- Mild, slightly nutty, and perhaps bearing an earthy sweetness, they proved to be an easy introduction for a meal outside my comfort zone. Paired with watercress, carrots, and dried cranberries, it would have been a pleasant enough start if not for the tide of dressing that washed away distinction between the vegetables. Already soggy by the time it hit the table, in hindsight, it might have been wise to request dressing on the side.

Picking up the slack for that underwhelming salad, an appetizer plate of Combination Rolls brought together a wide variety of savory samples, each one wrapped up in its own discrete nori or rice paper package. Trios of buckwheat noodle rolls, seaweed rolls, mushroom rolls and kimchi vermicelli rolls artfully adorned the plate, ideal for sharing with an equally hungry date. Easily eating more than my fair share of both the mushroom and buckwheat assortments, they both shared an unexpected depth and richness, enhanced by a lightly battered and fried exterior.

Silky Tofu in Clay Pot brings the heat, arriving in a bubbling hot broth and sizzling metal bowls we’re advised not to touch. Served with sticky white rice on the side to soak up every last drop of flavorful soup, this dish alone would have been enough for a solo diner’s lunch. So soft it practically melts in your mouth, the tofu is just as tender as promised. Stewing away in the boldly astringent, tangy, and spicy liquid, this pillowy bean curd is anything but bland.

Arriving with a plume of aromatic steam, each order of Kimchi Stone Bowl Rice comes with plenty of bean sprouts, shredded nori, and of course kimchi, with a bit of performance art on the side. After allowing us to admire the kitchen’s handiwork on the carefully composed grains and vegetables, our waiter snapped to attention and began vigorously mixing, scraping, and stirring, until every last morsel in that bowl begged for mercy. Dramatics aside, it’s easy to see why this signature dish has taken off with such ease. Well balanced, as I had come to expect from Hangawi‘s offerings, the crispy rice is truly the best part. Perfectly crunchy in a way that standard skillets can only dream of achieving, it’s the sort of dish that I could never fully replicate at home. There’s such finesse that goes into the technique, transforming plain white rice into something extraordinary, which demonstrates the mastery of the chefs here.

The spice level in the funky, fermented Kimchi isn’t hot enough bowl you over, but the burn certainly grows with each successive bite. Crazy though it may sound, the thin sheets of delicately rolled cabbage struck me as ideal palate cleansers between bites of so many wildly different dishes.

Unrivaled even in this city of unparalleled choice, there is no better place to experience a wholly plant-based Korean meal. Fine dining does come at a price, but lunch specials are much more budget-friendly, and I’ve heard that Hangawi‘s sister restaurant, Franchia, also serves similar dishes in a more casual, low-key setting. Clearly, my adventures into Korean cuisine are far from over… I can see a trip out to this second outpost in my near future, purely for the sake of research, of course.

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Author: Hannah Kaminsky

Author of My Sweet Vegan, Vegan Desserts, Vegan a la Mode, and Easy as Vegan Pie.

23 thoughts on “A Meditative Meal

  1. Good morning Hannah! The Silky Tofu in Clay Pot looks like my ideal dish to start with including the funky, fermented Kimchi and Kimchi Stone Bowl Rice! All looks so good! I’ll also be featuring a guest blogger who will be documenting her vegan eats in South Korea (Seoul) this month :)

  2. The silky tofu dish looks amazing! Beautiful photos as well!
    Sophia :)

  3. Yumm!! This looks like such a delicious meal! I love love love Korean food, but it’s such a coincidence that one of my friends just Instagram’ed from this spot too!

  4. This is one of my favorite restaurants! I also love their porridges. I hope you review more NYC restaurants!

    • I’m so glad you’re into it! I do hesitate to post more local reviews since I know not everyone enjoys them/cares, but as long as there’s an audience, I’ll keep writing them. It’s a good excuse for me to go outside of my comfort zone and try new cuisines, too. :)

  5. Georgous & cozy pictures, Hannah! All of the presented food dishes look amazing, pretty styled on the plate & very deliciously looking! Yum Yum,Yum!

  6. Hangawi looks like an awesome upscale take on Korean cuisine–plus it’s vegan! It’s almost impossible for me to find veg Korean anywhere nearby!

  7. I love the silky tofu in the clay pot…love the pictures Hannah…yes, you just reminded me that I have not being to Korean restaurant for a while.
    Hope you are having a fun week my dear :D

  8. Wow, this food looks amazing. I know very little about Korean food… I have tried bibimbap and kim chi, but that’s about it! Love your photography. You make everything look glistening, fragrant and delicious. I’ll remember this restaurant if I ever head your way (hopefully next year, we’re saving our pennies… I’m busting to go on holiday!) xx

  9. Thanks so much for writing about Hangawi! It was on my list of places to try before moving away from New York, but time ran out :( Lovely to read more about the food + check out some gorgeous photos!

  10. Sounds like an incredible experience. The kimchi in the stone bowl is especially catching my eye. I’ll have to check either Hangwai or Franchia out; I’ve heard only good things.

  11. Thanks for this great writeup and photoshoot. Must get back to Hangawi soon. It’s been over a decade – so before I moved to NYC!!!

  12. What an awesome meal! Everything looks super good. I wasn’t even aware there was a vegan Korean restaurant.

  13. I’d love to know how to make the silky tofu dish.
    Every time I see “Kimchi” it brings a smile to my face because years ago (I’m talking 19 years) a gentleman in our
    facility introduced the staff to Kimchi. It was in a jar and when he opened the lid, we all just about fell over.
    But those brave enough to try it absolutely loved the taste. I never did try it but from what I remember, it has some
    heat to it? Anyway, back then, this guy, as a joke said it was made in Korea, fermented under the dirt (buried in the
    yard) and it was made from …well I won’t say it but it was a little white lie and not very nice.
    Now I know what Kimchi REALLY is, I’d love to make it myself.

    • Oh, but it’s all true! Kimchi is traditionally fermented underground, with all sorts of unspeakable fishy parts. Thankfully, modern approaches as much more sanitary, and a good handful of brands are indeed vegan.

      But now that you mention it, I really should work on a recipe for that tofu…

  14. It looks like you are required to enter with cute colorful shoes! Look at all those pretty shoes! HA. Enough on that, the food looks so mouthwatering! And that tea!! As always I love your photos and the stories they tell!!

  15. What a beautiful experience. I agree with steph above, everyone has such cute shoes! I don’t know anything about Korean food and am not sure I’ve come across a Korean resto either.

  16. Beautifully written and perfectly photographed, Hannah! I like Korean food and as for reviews, I like them sometimes, but not too often because I don’t live in the places where people are doing the reviews generally. :-) Balance in all things, right?

    janet

  17. I love this kind of food, and style of eating! My parents once talked about getting rid of the dining room table in favor of one that sat on the floor when I was a kid. I wasn’t a fan of that idea at the time, but now I love going to places where there’s that opportunity.

  18. Hi there!! I’m a Korean vegan and I want to thank you for the beautiful presentation of Korean food and I’m very glad you liked it. So is this place specializing in Temple Cuisine? It’s very exciting because even in korea there aren’t many places serving temple cuisine. Everything looks delicious and very healthy as well :D
    Again, I’m glad you enjoyed your meal and thanks for letting the blogworld know about korean food! :)

  19. Jealous like whoa. Hangawi has been at the top of my to-dine list for my New York hiatuses for far too long. Apparently I need to take a break from eating falafel and bagels for an hour at some point?

  20. I’ve been there (when visiting my vegan sister who lives in NYC) and I loved it! All of your photos are beautiful (as always).

  21. Welcome to your new Korean food addiction, good luck shaking it ;)

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