Don’t be misled by the title; there’s nothing mundane about Garden Variety by Timothy Pakron. A work of inordinate beauty, it reads as both a manifesto for home gardeners and a passionate love letter to vegetables the world over. Author of the acclaimed Mississippi Vegan cookbook and eponymous blog that started it all, Mr. Pakron has already proven his prowess in the field, both figuratively and literally.
Written with poetic flair that remains fittingly down to earth, I was already hooked by the first page. It’s clear that this book is deeply personal, the product of a life’s worth of memories, aspirations, and inspirations set to print. Presented at a time when it’s all too tempting to click “skip to recipe,” it’s the complete package, the whole story, that brings me back to this text time and again. Aside from the incredibly detailed explanation of ingredients and tips for making the most of the book, you would be missing the point to head straight to the recipe sections. Flipping past the introductory pages would be like reading only the final pages of a novel; you’ll get the point, but none of the context, character, and meaning that makes it worth reading.
Beluga Lentil Nachos
Many recipes call for components found elsewhere in the book, such as the Tahini Cheese Sauce (page 89) that makes Beluga Lentil Nachos (page 210) possible. Rather than feeling cumbersome, it feels like a satisfying way to connect the dots between ideas. Nothing exists in a vacuum, after all. Recipes build upon one another in much the same way that the garden itself does, with one harvest feeding into the next. For the same reason you would plant the three sisters (corn, beans, and squash) together, each contributes something the others need. Each component is a building block that becomes more compelling as part of a larger whole. Besides, there’s no reason not to have an easy vegan cheese sauce on hand at all time to make nachos, and more, at will.
Citrusy Beets
Plated with a chef’s eye, dishes like Citrusy Beets (page 271), look fancy, but in fact celebrate simplicity. By merely letting fresh ingredients shine, they’re naturally beautiful. Simmered directly in orange juice with plenty of zest, the citrus permeates all the way to their very core rather than simply dressing them from the outside. As they cook, they become almost buttery and impossibly tender, taking on the bright, fragrant character of the orange while retaining their deep, earthy sweetness. It’s a simple technique with a big payoff.
Okra Eggplant Étouffée
The author’s southern roots come to the surface on dishes like Okra Eggplant Étouffée (page 244), transposing shrimp and crayfish so seamlessly that it’s hard to imagine the dish was ever built differently. Despite being daunting at a glance, especially for someone inexperienced with proper Creole and Cajun cooking, the procedure unfolds easily once the spices are assembled and vegetables cut. Roasting the eggplant separately keeps it intact in the stew yet velvety on the inside, giving the edges a slightly smoky char at the same time. Having a giant pot of this stew that’s layered with such complex flavor and fluffy rice to serve with it, I feel truly rich. If there’s only one recipe you make, though that would be a terribly shortsighted thing to do, it should be this one.
Timothy Pakron
I also appreciate how there’s a section on sourdough, specifically, highlighting that fact that wild yeast is something you can grow and cultivate, too. It’s one of many details that makes Garden Variety feel like a book meant to be lived with, read cover to cover, and even kept as a coffee table art book if you should so desire. The photography is equally integral to the experience, with every page offering a breathtaking glimpse into a more holistic world to inhabit, where growing, gathering, cooking, and eating all feel like parts of the same interconnected experience, at least for a little while.
Garden Variety is a vegan cookbook that doesn’t need to broadcast the message. Its argument is intrinsic, made through abundance and the genuinely joyful sharing of food. There are no allusions to imitating or replacing meat and none are need to make the point. You don’t have to be a vegetable-lover to appreciate Garden Variety, but you will be by the time you’re through.