Eternal Summer

Inspiration isn’t a commodity that can be bought and sold, nor is it a punctual visitor dutifully keeping an appointment on the calendar. Untamed, fickle thing that it is, it may show up late, early, or not at all, and there’s no way of knowing which. I can never begrudge it, frustrating as the dance may be, because eventually, albeit sometimes painstakingly, it does always grace me with its presence. I’m not sure if that completely explains why I was dispatching a whole summer’s harvest of fresh produce in the dead of winter, but I can be equally unpredictable, too.

This recipe has been a long time coming. Suggesting that others defy seasonality as carelessly as I did would seem irresponsible. I was simply following my muse, you see, and in a dearth of color and warmth, all it wanted was to paint the kitchen in the vibrant, sun-soaked hues of July. Just picturing the juicy tomatoes hanging heavily on their vines began to thaw my imagination.

All it took was one extra eggplant, leftover from another project, to light the creative spark. Channeling my future self, I made a one-pan meal I knew would be just the ticket in a few months. Simple, fresh, bright, and balanced, it’s exactly the sort of thing I would make with peak summer produce. Aside from slicing and dicing, the oven does all the work. 

The cherry tomatoes collapse and burst into a rich, sweet jam that acts as a built-in sauce. The eggplant softens into a downright velvety texture, soaking up the olive oil and garlic like a sponge, while the fennel mellows into something deeply caramelized and sweet. Once pulled from the heat, the warm, jammy vegetables are tossed directly on the sheet pan with plump butter beans for substance, briny olives for a sharp pop of contrast, and a generous handful of fresh basil to wake everything up.

There’s no shame in eating it right off the sheet, provided you have a trusted trivet underneath. I found it even more gratifying, however, to spoon it over a big bowlful of soft polenta, letting the corn grits soak in all the juices. Of course, that may owe a lot to the urge for comfort and warming dishes when I made it, which is why I’m very happy to report that it’s just as compelling when tossed with pasta, hot or cold. In fact, you can chill the whole thing and take it outside for a picnic; something I could only dream of in that moment.

If there’s one thing I’ve learned over the years, it’s that you should never expect inspiration to simply land on your doorstep. If it does, though, you should always answer the door, no matter the time or season.

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Wordless Wednesday: It Takes Tortillas

2n1 Salad Bar and GrillFalafel Wrap
Carnaless – Bacon Con Guacamole Breakfast Taco
Carnaless – Beef Fajita Quesadilla
De Nada Cantina – Crispy Mushroom Picadillo Tacos
De Nada Cantina – Verduras Taco
La Yunta – Chips & Guacamole
Nissi VegMex – Fajita Nachos
Rad Radish – Chilaquiles
Ramen Del Barrio – Champiñón Taco
The BE Hive – Taco Crunchwrap
Vivo – Emma’s Choice with Mushroom and Spinach Enchiladas + Tofu Puffy Taco
Vivo – Tofu Puffy Taco

Bide Your Thyme

Time is the greatest commodity, far more valuable than any currency. Always in short supply, even when it seems to stretch on forever, we end up realizing it’s never enough. Thyme, however… I may have found the limit.

Thyme’s Up

Thyme grows like a weed in the right conditions, which are apparently perfectly aligned with a neglected little corner of my yard. I don’t remember planting it, and certainly not tending to it, and still it proliferates with a vaguely threatening tenacity. It throws its leaves back and laughs at the coddled tomato vines that wither right alongside their thriving stems. Any bounty is worth celebrating, but like the equally vivacious sage that would take over the whole garden, and possibly move right into my house if I left the door open too long, it’s challenging to use up massive quantities of such a potent herb.

Perfect Thyme-ing

Most recipes call for a few sprigs of thyme at most, later instructing the obedient cook to remove them before serving, like spent bay leaves that have overstayed their welcome. Scrolling through my mental Rolodex of the most thyme-laden dishes possible, I came up with only one possible solution: za’atar. Dried herbs and spices typically make up this Middle Eastern seasoning blend, used to brighten everything from hummus to flatbread, but why can’t we take a fresher approach?

It’s About Thyme

Za’atar pesto is the ideal solution to a profusion of fresh thyme. Softened by the addition of spinach, it’s every bit as bright, zingy, earthy, and herbaceous without punching you in the face with every bite. You can double or triple the recipe for an especially exuberant garden and freeze it to keep all winter, and beyond. That may not be necessary, though, when you can use it like traditional basil pesto in or on top of:

  • Pizza and focaccia
  • Pasta and gnocchi
  • Toast
  • Salad dressing
  • Roasted vegetables
  • Bean dip
  • Sandwiches and wraps
  • Grilled plant proteins
  • Tofu scramble
  • Just about everything edible, short of dessert

Thyme-ly Reminder

Never take time, nor thyme, for granted. Both are precious, when you know what to do with them.

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Do’s and Do-ughnut’s

When I got my first air fryer, there’s nothing I wouldn’t put in it. Whole pies, seitan roasts, random leftovers; things that absolutely did not need to be air fried, and probably would have been better if not. More than the promise of cooking with less fat, it was the convenience and speed that reeled me in. The promise of never navigating a vat of bubbling hot oil didn’t hurt, though.

Naturally, pushing it to the extreme limits of this concept, I had to try my hand at doughnuts. Yeasted doughnuts seemed too easy, or maybe just too precious for something I was fully prepared to get wrong. Cake doughnuts were a challenge within a puzzle, lighting up the problem-solving part of my brain like a glow stick, since there was no way in hell I could fit a conventional metal mold in that tiny countertop oven.

The trick is to make a batter as thick as cookie dough, easily sculpted in the palm of your hands. Landing somewhere between a light brownie and a dense cupcake, these rustic rings have a homespun kind of charm as a result. Those ridges and dips catch the glaze differently, creating little pockets of sweetness that contrast with the darker, more cocoa-forward crumb underneath.

How this recipe could sit in my drafts for all these years is beyond me. Unlike many other unhinged air fryer experiments, this one has withstood the test of time, even if that original air fryer didn’t withstand my trials.

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Garden Variety Tartare

I love a beet tartare, for the obvious pun of course, and because I have a certain penchant for beets in all forms. The closest a beet can come to emulating beef, however, is that one letter difference in name. For that, we need to call in the tomatoes.

Tartare’d Up

Tomato tartare is a perennial favorite for highlighting peak summer produce in its own rights. Juicy heirlooms bursting from their skins, meaty and umami, have never been shy about stealing the show. Taken a step further, they’ve been used to create remarkably successful facsimiles for tuna, often infused with sake, miso, and nori, transformed into convincingly oceanic sashimi and sushi. Even I started getting sidetracked by luminous tuna towers with layers of buttery avocado, but there’s something different I was after. What I haven’t seen, amidst all that tomato ephemera, is a tartare where they’re treated like proper raw beef.

Yes, We Can

Turn up your nose at canned tomatoes if you’d like, but they’re exactly the shortcut we need here. Quality counts, especially with so few ingredients, so don’t skimp on the bargain brand and expect a gourmet experience. Proper peeled, whole San Marzano tomatoes are ripe with natural savory flavor, never mealy, and downright buttery on the tongue. Slowly roasting them further concentrates their flavor and removes any watery excess that might shatter the illusion. Then, it’s as simple as folding in the traditional accoutrements of shallots, capers, and Dijon mustard, though a dab of sharp horseradish would be most welcome, too.

Raise a Toast to Tomatoes

Make it fancy by using a ring mold, or cookie or biscuit cutter, to make a perfect round on the plate, or pile it just as elegantly into a dish. What really seals the deal, though it’s entirely aesthetic, is the peeled yellow cherry tomato, looking for all the world like a gleaming egg yolk sitting delicately on top. Who thought tartare could be totally made from tomatoes, while still carrying the same beefy swagger, rich decadence, and undeniable air of a special occasion? You will, the moment you dip in your toast.

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