Bespoke Beoseot

Believe it or not, it’s almost impossible to overcook mushrooms. Aside from burning them, because anything is flammable if you try hard enough, hours-long braises won’t make fungi tough nor mushy. Their unique structural properties are unlike either vegetables or protein. While meat toughens and vegetables disintegrate, mushrooms contain chitin, a heat-stable polymer in their cell walls that maintains their toothsome, bouncy bite, no matter how long they’re in the hot seat.

Such resiliency makes them ideal candidates for heavy-duty braises the world over. Korean cuisine especially has perfected this technique, designed to coax deep, robust flavors into every fiber of any given ingredient.

The Art of the Jjim

Jjim are dishes simmered in a potent sauce until the liquid reduces into a glossy, concentrated glaze. Usually, this method is reserved for the tough cuts of short ribs or bone-in poultry which demand exceptional time and patience to tenderize.

However, the uncanny ability of mushrooms to withstand heat while acting as a literal flavor sponges opens the door to innovation. You get all the depth of a slow-simmered stew without having to babysit a pot for hours, only to have your dinner turn into savory dental floss.

Inspired by jjimdak, or dak jjim, depending on who you ask, we’re keeping the braise (jjim) and losing the chicken (dak) in favor of mushrooms (beoseot).

Braise without the Baggage

Beyond the fact that it’s a one-pot, “set it and forget it” dream, Beoseot Jjim has become a fast favorite because it solves the fundamental problem of the braise. Usually, a braise is a trade-off: to achieve a rich, layered, and nuanced sauce, you have to sacrifice the integrity of the ingredients. Using mushrooms means making no compromises.

  • Umami Synergy: Simmering mushrooms in a soy-based glaze sets the stage for a high-level meeting of savory molecules. The glutamates in the fungi shake hands with the fermented soybeans, creating a flavor that tastes unbelievably meaty despite its plant-based origins.
  • Chickened Out: Using shredded oyster mushrooms, torn into long, irregular strips, mimic the fibrous grain of pulled chicken so effectively you might find yourself checking for bones.
  • Send Noodz: Although it’s not technically considered a conventional noodle dish, it wouldn’t be a jjim without dangmyeon (sweet potato starch noodles). These translucent threads are a remarkably efficient delivery system, soaking up the spicy, syrupy reduction, not a drop left behind.

Fungi are the Future

Perfectly exemplifying the iconic Korean sweet-salty-spicy trifecta, every bite punches above its weight. You get a dark, glossy glaze that clings to every shred of mushroom, punctuated by the sharp, clean heat of chilies. Without animal fat clouding the palate, the aromatics of ginger and garlic hit even harder.

It’s the kind of meal that feels indulgent and hearty, but since you’re eating a mountain of fungi instead of gristle and grease, you won’t leave the table immediately needing a nap. Get all the soul of the original fish, with none of the high-maintenance drama. In the face of fungi, chicken never stood a chance.

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Stick To It

As much as I love edamame, I’m loathe to order them at a restaurant. They have to be something really special, perhaps charred with a smoky kiss from the wok, anointed with enough garlic to ruin any date, to merit real consideration. The fact of the matter is that in most cases, they’re merely the same green pods anyone could grab from the freezer, barely thawed enough to melt the ice crystals, and seasoned either with too much or too little salt; there’s never any middle ground.

Edamame, though admittedly perfect beer snacks as is, deserve so much more care. The bar is so low that the bare minimum of creativity hooks me like a hapless, hungry fish. “Edamame Sticks” did the trick, in just that one line. It was printed on a menu online with no further description, and no means of ordering, but when has that ever stopped me before?

Wrapped up in a thin sheath of wheat-based egg roll skin, chopped edamame are granted the thoughtful application of spices and aromatics that quick serves can never afford. Far from groundbreaking, the complement of garlic, ginger, soy sauce, and sesame oil are simply playing the hits that the crowd most wants to hear. Once fried, bubbling surface of the wrappers bronzed and resoundingly crisp, no one could deny these beans.

The only problem with edamame is when they’re served as a placeholder, something to keep your hands busy while you wait for anything better. Given even a modest intervention, sealed, spiced, and sent through hot oil, they snap out of their stupor. Apparently this is still too much to ask of restaurants sending out plain pods at exorbitant prices, but at least we have all the tools at our disposal to do better at home.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Rye Not?

Rye is a grain of both the working class and high society. Best known for making strong brown bread and even stronger distilled spirits, rye can be as wholesome or debauched as the hands that shape it. Touching all walks of life through its long and storied history, what’s even wilder than the grain itself, is the fact that it was almost overlooked entirely by human civilization. Even though rye’s cultural renaissance may have come and gone, it remains an indispensable grain that’s primed for it’s next great revival.

Grand Teton Ancient Grains is helping to lead that charge, making bulk whole rye berries accessible in markets where local stores fail to deliver. Even rye flour has become something of a rarity, relegated to specialty stores, if you needed any additional incentive to make the plunge and buy a home grain mill.

How Rye Came to Grow Like a Weed

Originating sometime around 1000 BCE nearby modern-day Turkey and Iran, rye was first viewed as a pesky weed. Early farmers focused on cultivating barley and wheat (which are both closely related, I might add) were initially confounded as to how this interloper kept managing to tenaciously thrive amongst the other crops. This hardiness is what ultimately earned it a proper place in the fields, proving its tolerance to cold temperatures, drought, and poor soil.

Romans seized upon the resilient stalks during their conquests, bringing them back home and ultimately introducing rye to greater Ancient Europe. The grain proliferated, quickly becoming an essential staple that shaped the very foundation of their traditional foodways. Dark, dense rye bread is practically synonymous with German, Russian, Polish, and Swedish cuisines, and that’s only the beginning.

Bold, Old-World Flavor

Distinctive, assertive, and complex, rye will never slip silently onto your plate. To some, particularly super tasters, its strong, sometime bitter flavor is off-putting, but for those who love it, that’s a feature, not a flaw. At its core, rye carries a malty, toasted, earthy backbone with an almost mineral edge. That base is layered with subtle spice reminiscent of black pepper, clove, or allspice. There’s an underlying tanginess, not unlike sourdough, which amplifies rye’s nuances, pulling forward hidden notes of nuttiness and sweetness.

The form in which rye is used greatly affects the final flavor. There’s also a large amount of variation between rye grown in the spring vs winter. Let’s not forget that there are heirloom varieties, such as what you’ll find at Grand Teton Ancient Grains, and modern hybrids.

Reuben Sandwich from Brunch Bird

Modern Rye

Rye’s ascension was not meteoric nor linear. After sustaining generations through hardship and scarcity, it began to be associated with poverty. Soon, it was relegated to the back burner, replaced by light, fluffy white flours and quick-cooking whole grains. The greatest tragedy of rye is that to this day, less than 25% of the rye grown in the U.S. is harvested for human consumption, with the remainder used as livestock feed, hay, or as a cover crop. Globally, the numbers are more encouraging, though appreciation for rye still trails far behind trendier superfoods like the social media darling, quinoa, for example. Culinarily speaking, there are so more historical and contemporary uses for rye:

  • Bread: A dark, hearty loaf of bread is the first thing most people think of when you say the word “rye.” There are myriad variations on the theme, with or without caraway seeds, sweetened with molasses or raisins, and more. Aside from loaves, rye bagels, rolls, biscuits, and muffins all deserve a place at the table. Rye flour is also a major component in pumpernickel bread.
  • Crackers, Cookies, Pancakes, and Cakes: In crackers, rye bakes up crisp and snappy, with a deep, savory flavor. For desserts like cookies and cakes, rye tempers sweetness, adding a faint bitterness and nutty depth that keeps things from becoming cloying, especially in spice-forward or chocolate-rich recipes. Danish brødtorte, a layer cake made from rye bread crumbs, hazelnuts, cocoa, and molasses is an excellent example.

Rye Flake Muesli
  • Cereal, Granola, and Porridge: Using whole berries, or rolled rye flakes, this grain makes for a deeply satisfying breakfast. Rye porridge cooks up creamy yet slightly chewy, with a hearty texture that satisfies for hours. Its natural savory edge pairs well with both sweet toppings like maple syrup, fruit, and nuts, or more savory additions like unsweetened vegan yogurt and seeds. In granola, rye flakes toast beautifully, adding crunch and a subtle malty flavor that sets it apart from the usual oat-based blends.
  • Soup: Żurek is a traditional Polish sour rye soup made with fermented rye flour, sausages, root vegetables, and often served with eggs and, yes, more bread. The fermented rye starter known as Zakwas Żytni can be purchased in Polish markets, but is incredibly easy to make at home, if you have the patience to let it sit for 4 – 7 days.
  • Salad: Like any other whole grain, rye berries can be cooked and tossed into salads chilled, warm, or hot. They hold their shape, absorb dressings like a champ, and travel well, making them an excellent choice for picnics and potlucks.

Rye Whiskey and Beer
  • Whiskey: Rye finds one of its boldest expressions in whiskey, where its naturally peppery profile takes center stage. Compared to corn-heavy bourbons, rye whiskey is typically drier and more assertive, with notes of spice, herbs, and sometimes citrus or floral undertones. It’s the backbone of classic cocktails like the Manhattan and Old Fashioned, where its sharpness cuts through sweetness and brings balance. For those who enjoy a spirit with a bit of edge, rye whiskey is hard to beat.
  • Beer: Brewers have long employed rye as a flavorful twist to traditional grain bills. Rye beers often carry a slightly spicy, tangy character with a smooth, sometimes silky mouthfeel. It can be used to add complexity to everything from pale ales to stouts, though rye IPAs are especially popular for the way the grain’s spice plays against bright, citrusy hops.

Garlic-Rye Chips

Rye and Mighty Nutrition

As nutritionally dense as the loaves it makes, rye is a heavy hitter across the board. Even higher in fiber than conventional whole wheat, rye also provides more vitamin B2, B6, and E per serving, in addition to vitamins A and K, which you won’t find in the former. Rye is also a good source of manganese, potassium, copper and phosphorus. Instead of grabbing an expensive energy bar, a sturdy slice of rye bread would be a smarter midday pick-me-up.

Seeded Rye Bread

Baker in the Rye

Even for the experienced baker, working with rye flour can be daunting. Rye does contain gluten, making it unsuitable for those with celiac disease, but much less than wheat. That’s why rye bread tends to be much denser and have less rise, or is cut with a higher-gluten bread flour to improve the texture.

Buying rye flour may be even more difficult than grinding your own. Sold as light, medium, and dark rye flour, the difference is all in the milling. Light rye has most or all of the bran removed and is ground to a very fine powder, whereas on the opposite side of the spectrum, dark rye uses nearly all of the bran and is coarsely ground.

Rye flour absorbs more liquid than wheat flour, resulting in a stickier, less elastic dough. Don’t try to compensate by adding more flour, which will only result in a dry, leaden loaf. Your best bet is to substitute only 20% to 25% of the flour in cookies or cakes with rye, or 50% of the flour in bread recipes.

Cooking Whole Rye Berries

To soak or not to soak: that’s a question with no definitive answer. You don’t need to soak rye berries before cooking them, but as with all other hard grain berries and large beans, it can help cut down on the cooking time and ensure even tenderness all the way through. Should you choose to do so, soak your rye berries overnight and drain thoroughly, adding fresh water for the cooking process.

  • Stove Top: Add 1 part rye berries to 4 parts water in a large pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a steady simmer and cover. Cook for about 45 – 60 minutes if soaked, or 60 – 90 minutes if unsoaked, stirring occasionally and adding more water if needed. The berries are done when tender but still pleasantly chewy. Drain any excess liquid.
  • Pressure Cooker: Combine 1 part rye berries with 3 parts water. Cook on high pressure for 20 – 25 minutes if soaked, or 30 – 35 minutes if unsoaked. Allow the pressure to release naturally for 10 minutes before opening. Drain and enjoy.

Joy Rye-d

If rye is most closely associated with bread, then rye bread is most closely associated with the Reuben sandwich. The stuff of deli legends (despite not being kosher by combining meat and cheese), the Reuben is a simple affair composed of corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and thousand island dressing, all contained between two slices of rye bread. Taking a step back, I wondered what would happen if we removed the bread, but kept the rye? That’s how rye-sotto, featuring whole rye berries instead of the conventional rice found in risotto, was born.

Gone A-Rye

Though whole rye berries lack the free starch found in rice that typically makes risotto thick and creamy, they have the advantage of staying satisfyingly chewy no matter how long you cook them. The solution is to create a slurry from rye flour to thicken the broth like a rich gravy, cradling the tender cooked grains.

Completing the Reuben revolution was easy from there, using chopped vegan corned beef slices, either store-bought or homemade, like you might employ bacon or pancetta in a more traditional risotto, to carry the greatest gustatory weight. Dairy-free Parmesan takes the place of Swiss for a greater umami impact, and the whole thing is finished with a drizzle of thousand island crema, less oily than dressing but with all the same bite. Effortlessly elegant without being fussy, it takes the beloved comfort food to a whole new level.

All Ryes On Me

Rye doesn’t need reinvention so much as reconsideration. It’s been here all along, resilient in the field, uncompromising on the palate, and endlessly adaptable in the kitchen. Whether you meet it in a dense loaf, a warming bowl, or a sweet treat, rye rewards curiosity with character. If there’s a revival ahead, I can only hope it’ll be driven by a renewed appreciation for a truly great whole grain.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)11 Comments

Hot Pot How-To

Hot pot is less a meal and more an event. Armed with chopsticks and a simmering cauldron as the stage at the center of the table, you get both dinner and a show for the price of admission. For vegan eaters, it can feel like stepping into a story line rife with conflict and little resolution, though that’s hardly the case if you stick with it. Hot pot, being infinitely adaptable, is ideal for a diverse range of diners, the plant-based among us included. Despite gaining most attention for unlimited plates of meat, hot pot is one of my personal favorite dining experiences when approached strategically.

EJ’s Hot Pot & Sushi

Overall Advice

Let’s get this out of the way: You need to speak up. Yes, dishes laid on buffet-style will be labeled, if you’re lucky, but rarely will they include all of the ingredients. Be courteous and make friends with the staff because you’ll need to ask lots of questions. Beyond knowing what’s dietarily feasible, they’ll have helpful insights on the best pairings and flavor combinations around.

Don’t try to get your money’s worth. The big ticket items will always be the meat and seafood. You’ll eat yourself to ruin on cabbage and beansprouts long before the monetary total of your meal equals your final bill. That said, weekday lunches will always be a better deal if you can make the timing work. Dinner offers are sometimes more abundant or feature more high-end items, like crab legs or lobster, which obviously add no extra value to a person of vegan needs.

Cha No Ma

Start With the Broth

The broth sets the tone for everything that follows, so this is where your vegan radar needs to be sharpest. Many traditional bases such as tonkotsu, spicy mala, even seemingly innocent “vegetable” broths can hide animal ingredients. Look for explicitly labeled vegetarian or vegan broths when possible, often mushroom-based, tomato-based, herbal, or lightly spiced. If the server hesitates when asked for clarity, treat it like a red flag and pivot accordingly. In the absolute worst case scenario, you can always ask for hot water and compensate with a heavy hand on dipping sauces later.

Cha-Ya

Build Your Bowl: A Bounty of Plant-Based Possibilities

Once the soup base is secured, the real fun begins. Think of the ingredient bar as an edible art supply store. Leafy greens (napa cabbage, spinach, bok choy, chrysanthemum, morning glory, even pea shoots if you’re lucky), mushrooms of every imaginable shape and texture (enoki, beech, wood ear, shiitake, and oyster, among others), and tofu in its many forms (silken, firm, fried puffs, and tofu skin) are your core craft kit.

EJ’s Hot Pot & Sushi

Any whole, single ingredient vegetables are as good as gold. It’s a great opportunity to try some less common options like lotus root, baby corn, bamboo shoots, taro, water chestnuts, daikon, kabocha squash, and more. For best results, select a wide range of colors and textures; variety is the spice of life, you know. Start small and pace yourself, since you can always go back for seconds, or thirds.

In rare cases, some restaurants may offer vegan dumplings or mock meats. Always keep your eyes open for new options but also read the room. If the menu is staunchly traditional, without a whiff of more contemporary influences, it’s best to stick to the basics.

EJ’s Hot Pot & Sushi

Don’t forget the side dishes! It’s a good idea to snag a few ready-to-eat items so you can start snacking while cooking your entree. There’s a wide range of possibilities here, depending on the cuisine and location, but if you can find edamame, veggie spring rolls, pickled cucumbers, seaweed salad, sesame balls, or even French fries, then you’re golden. Be wary of any kimchi or other unmarked banchan, as fish or shrimp are often a factor.

EJ’s Hot Pot & Sushi

Get Saucy

If the broth is the setting, the dipping sauce is your narrative voice. Most hot pot spots offer a DIY sauce station, and this is where you can truly make the meal your own. Start with a base of soy sauce, sesame paste, or chili oil and build from there. Add minced garlic, scallions, cilantro, a splash of vinegar, maybe a dab of fermented tofu if available. Aim for balance, thinking of all five tastes: sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami. Taste, tweak, and repeat.

Possibly pitfalls include fish sauce, ponzu (which may use fish-based dashi), and sweet and sour sauces that may be sweetened with honey. When in doubt, leave it out.

Little Sheep Hot Pot

Stay Vigilant, Not Anxious

Cross-contamination can happen, especially in shared pots or busy kitchens, but most restaurants are happy to accommodate if you’re clear about your concerns and proactive about prevention. Ask for separate utensils if needed, and a split pot if dining with omnivores. Other diners may not be as conscientious at the buffet, so be on alert when scoping out your selections, especially if they’re situated right next to messy, drippy, crumbly, or difficult to scoop animal-based items.

Yuzu

Good to the Last Drop

By the end of the meal, your broth will have reduced significantly, enriched by every vegetable that passed through it, concentrating into a deeply flavored elixir. Don’t even think of leaving it on the table now. Add noodles or rice to soak up every last drop, turning what began as a simple base into a truly grand finale. Avoiding egg noodles should be easy; there should be a wide range of rice noodles and wheat-based noodles at your disposal, and the bright yellow sheen is a dead giveaway that those strands aren’t vegan.

In this rare instance, don’t save room for dessert. Sure, you can count on some sort of cut melons and maybe berries, but certainly nothing to get excited about. The typical array of puddings, cakes, pastries, and soft serve ice cream will all be heavily dairy-laden.

EJ’s Hot Pot & Sushi

Hot Pot Hot Spots

Austin’s hot pot scene is surprisingly robust, supporting a diverse range of restaurants from north to south. When picking out a place for vegan options, these are your best bets:

  • Soupleaf Hot Pot is the most vegan-friendly option in town. Everyone gets their own individual pots and there’s clear labeling on the menu and buffet, which makes customization feel effortless rather than investigative.
  • DAM-A: Korean BBQ & Hotpot offers an unlimited spring roll bar in addition to their hot pot features, which is something I’ve never seen anywhere else. If you’re lucky, you’ll also find sides like japchae, tteokbokki, and braised sweet potatoes to round out your plate.
  • KPOT Korean BBQ & Hot Pot is a national chain focusing on Korean cuisine. It’s big, busy, and budget-friendly, with the added bonus of offering karaoke in some cases.
  • EJ’s Hot Pot & Sushi is the newest addition to the dining landscape, fusing elements of Chinese, Korean, and Japanese cuisines all in one buffet. As an added bonus, you can sip on dairy-free boba tea to satiate your sweet tooth, too.
  • Hotpot Alley isn’t an all-you-can-eat affair and there’s only a buffet for dipping sauces. Rather, you pick out your broth and a bundled set of inclusions. That may be a benefit to the indecisive, because the Homemade Veggie Soup with Buddha’s Delight is the only way to go.

EJ’s Hot Pot & Sushi

Coming In Hot

Hot pot is designed to be a communal experience. You end up with something delicious, of course, though it’s more about the journey than the destination. Given its endlessly adaptable nature, it’s far more accommodating to alternative diners than it may seem. By placing an emphasis on whole, fresh vegetables and soy proteins, it’s also a remarkably healthy meal when it comes to indulgence. Don’t be daunted, dive right in. You’ll quickly discover just how abundant the plant-based world can be when it’s bubbling right in front of you.

Hannah (BitterSweet)11 Comments