BitterSweet

Some seasonings get all the love. Who doesn’t have a bottle of chili powder somewhere in the kitchen? Salt and pepper are so ubiquitous, they don’t even count as ingredients in some recipes. Even something so amorphous as “Italian seasoning” is instantly understood. Then, we have makulaya. Not to be confused with the seeds of the makulaya tree, popular in African and Caribbean cuisines, the makulaya I’m talking about is the combination of herbs and spices that join forces as an instant meal starter for Ethiopian dishes. If not for Red Fox Spices, I would still be completely ignorant of this understated cornerstone of Ethiopian cooking.

What is Makulaya?

Makulaya is described as a sautéing blend, meaning that it’s best bloomed in a hot skillet at the beginning of the cooking process, just as you would temper spices when preparing Indian or Thai curries. That intense, direct heat releases the essential oils, unlocking its full flavorful potential. Warm and earthy, aromatic and grounding, it’s a more delicate, gentle flavor than Ethiopian dishes are typically known for. That’s also why it’s rarely seen solo, often paired off with fiery berbere for emphasis.

Nigella seeds and bishop’s weed make up the foundation of the mixture, explaining a good amount of the mystique for American cooks. Neither are easily accessible in mainstream grocery stores and few recipes shine a light that might help change that.

• Nigella seeds could pass for black sesame seeds, visually, but the taste is a world apart. Slightly bitter with a gentle onion and herbal note, it carries a faint peppery warmth and a grassy, almost tea-like aroma that becomes nutty and smoky when toasted.
• Bishop’s weed (ajwain) has an assertive, pungent flavor dominated by thymol, the same compound found in thyme and oregano. That gives it a sharp, savory, and warming finish, with a noticeable medicinal or camphor-like edge when used in greater quantities.

Rounding out the blend to make makulaya are cardamom, garlic, and ginger. Together, they bring floral sweetness, savory depth, and gentle heat that unify the mixture, designed to support stronger flavors rather than overpower them.

How is Makulaya Used?

Most commonly seen in recipes for misser wot and doro wot, additional suggestions are few and far between. It’s not for lack of versatility, but because makulaya remains largely unknown abroad, rarely explored beyond its traditional context. Such a shame to squander all that potential, confining it to only one or two uses! What’s more, it doesn’t need to be literally sautéed for maximum impact, opening up a wider range of high-heat preparations, like roasting, grilling, or dry toasting.

Think of makulaya as an aromatic base that can move far beyond stews:

• Roasted vegetables: Toss root vegetables, cauliflower, squash, or carrots with oil and makulaya before roasting to build warm, savory depth.
• Grilled proteins: Use it as part of a dry rub for tofu, tempeh, or seitan before grilling.
• Lentils and beans: Toast it lightly, then add to lentils, chickpeas, or white beans for an earthy backbone without heat.
• Rice and grains: Cook alongside your aromatics when making rice pilaf, risotto, farro, or barley to infuse the entire dish with aroma.
• Sautéed greens and mushrooms: Add early in the pan for gentle warmth that complements bitter or earthy vegetables.
• Compound butter or oil: Mix into softened vegan butter or warm oil as a base for vegetables, bread, or finishing grilled foods.

Sweet and Savory Candied Yams

Bringing it back home for a more concrete example, candied yams are a prime canvas for showcasing the compelling flavor of makulaya, where its warm, earthy aromatics deepen the natural sweetness of the potatoes without tipping the dish into dessert territory. Yes, I did say potatoes, if you can allow the momentary tangent; though the dish has been called “candied yams” since its inception, it rarely uses the tuber of its namesake. Sweet potatoes are softer and creamier, more widely available in America, and were often mislabeled as “yams” a century ago. To this day, we’re stuck with the title of the dish, despite the sweet potato base.

Makulaya fits in naturally here, adding layers of flavor that linger without overwhelming the palate. Tender, rich, festive, yet appropriate for all occasions, it belongs on more mundane menus too, not just the holiday table. Besides, with only a few minutes of prep work and half a dozen ingredients all told, there’s never been an easier way to try a new flavor sensation.

Make it with Makulaya

Makulaya may never become a household name in the US, but that’s precisely what makes cooking with it so rewarding. It asks very little of the cook while offering a depth of flavor that feels both grounding and transportive. Whether folded into a familiar dish or used as the first building block of something new, makulaya invites a broader way of thinking about spice: not as a finishing flourish, but as a foundation. Once you start reaching for it, the question quickly shifts from why try makulaya? to why not use it more often?

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