For Crying Out Loud

Thailand is a vegan paradise any day of the year. The word “jay” (เจ) is the key that will unlock centuries of Buddhist tradition, built on the principles of compassion towards all creatures. Splashed across yellow flags, restaurant signs, market stalls, and food packages, it’s as common as seeing an “open” sign on establishments elsewhere.

During Thailand’s annual Vegetarian Festival, it’s the only game in town, transforming even the most meat-centric dishes with plant-based makeovers. Experiencing firsthand how incredible the food scene was on a random visit in January, I can’t begin to imagine such superabundance on display. It’s a dream of mine to return in time for the festivities, though I may truly eat myself to ruin, given half a chance.

Much of the attraction is the opportunity to eat traditional Thai foods that usually don’t come with a naturally vegan or vegetarian option. Something like Crying Tiger (เสือร้องไห้; Suea Rong Hai) is exactly what I would make a beeline for. As meat-centric as main dishes come, it’s essentially just grilled beef served with Nam Jim Jaew (น้ำจิ้มแจ่ว). Bold yet balanced, a riot of intense flavors, it’s a deceptively simple dish that packs a serious punch. Despite how central the beef is to the whole concept, it’s just as simple to make it meatless.

While I remain firmly grounded for this year’s Vegetarian Festival, the distance won’t stop me from getting a taste of the celebration at home. Lion’s mane mushrooms are truly the beef of the earth, capable of being compressed into outrageously decadent steaks, the likes of which could satiate the most ravenous omnivore. A hard sear and heavy weight develops a smoky, charred crust encasing a succulent and tender interior, ideal for dousing in that fiery dipping sauce for a final kiss of heat.

The name “Crying Tiger” is considerably more contested than its ingredient list. There are plenty of theories about what exactly brought those tears to the tiger’s eyes. My favorite is the most folkloric, imagining that people would come across the remains of cattle hunted by tigers, with the brisket left behind. They would take this particularly rich cut for themselves, imagining the tiger looking back in regret at the delicious morsel it had abandoned. Hopefully it’s some consolation to our tiger that there was no kill necessary to make this particular prize.

Even if you skip the entree, don’t pass on the jaew. Even if you make the entree, you’re best advised to double the jaew. This potent mixture of dried chiles, lime juice, toasted rice powder, and shallot is the sort of condiment that makes itself indispensable, bringing enough heat, acidity, and depth to transform whatever happens to be within dipping distance. Though it usually contains fish sauce, I find that a combination of soy sauce and tamarind fills the gap with all the salty, tangy, pungent umami you could ask for.

Crying Tiger is served without fanfare or pretension, alongside a mound of sticky rice and fresh vegetables or herbs to temper the intensity. I like keeping that same spirit here. Let the lion’s mane take center stage, supported by a cooling, gently contrasting cast of characters. A few slices of crisp cucumbers, juicy tomato wedges, or fresh lettuce is all you really need, though you could always add a side of papaya salad or a light vegetable soup to stretch your entree into more servings.

Thailand will have to wait. Until then, homemade sliced lion’s mane mushroom steak, glossy with with fiery jaew, is hardly suffering. When you eat enough hot chilies to bring tears to your own eyes, you can almost imagine the tiger’s face when it realizes the best part of the meal has escaped its paws yet again.

Yield: Makes 2 - 3 Servings

Crying Tiger

Crying Tiger
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Really give that tiger something to cry about with a meatless version of this classic Thai dish. Crying Tiger, or Suea Rong Hai, typically takes smoky grilled beef and pairs it with fiery Nam Jim Jaew. Here, compressed lion's mane mushrooms take the place of steak, developing a charred crust and succulent, meaty texture before being sliced and drenched in that addictive sauce. Served with sticky rice, cool cucumbers, and lime wedges, it's an irresistibly bold centerpiece for any Thai-inspired feast.

Prep Time 20 minutes
Cook Time 20 minutes
Additional Time 30 minutes
Total Time 1 hour 10 minutes

Ingredients

Suea Rong Hai (Meatless Crying Tiger Beef):

  • 2 Tablespoons Neutral Oil, Such as Peanut, Avocado, or Rice Bran Oil
  • 2 Large Clusters (About 5 – 6 Ounces Each) Lion's Mane Mushrooms
  • 1/3 Cup Beet Juice
  • 2 Tablespoons Liquid Aminos
  • 2 Tablespoons Vegetarian Oyster Sauce
  • 1/4 Teaspoon Liquid Smoke
  • 1/2 Teaspoon Garlic Powder
  • 1/4 Teaspoon Onion Powder
  • 1/4 Teaspoon Ground White pepper

Nam Jim Jaew (Dipping Sauce):

  • 1 Tablespoon Raw Jasmine Rice
  • 2 Tablespoons Soy Sauce
  • 3 Tablespoons Frozen Tamarind Pulp, Thawed
  • 2 Tablespoons Lime Juice
  • 1 Tablespoon Prik Bon (Thai Chili Flakes) or Crushed Red Pepper Flakes
  • 1 Teaspoon Palm Sugar, Coconut Sugar, or Dark Brown Sugar
  • 1 Small Shallot, Finely Minced
  • 1 Tablespoon Fresh Cilantro, Minced

To Serve:

  • Sticky Rice
  • Sliced Seedless Cucumbers
  • Lime Wedges

Instructions

  1. Set a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the oil, swirling to coat the bottom. When it begins to shimmer, add the mushrooms, cut-sides down, and cook for 1 - 2 minutes to begin to soften. Use a sturdy spatula to begin pressing down on the mushrooms. Go slowly at first, gradually increasing the pressure as they begin to flatten, until you're leaning in with all your weight.
  2. After about 5 minutes, flip the mushrooms and repeat the pressing process. They will begin to release water. Keep cooking and pressing for another 5 minutes, until nicely seared on both sides and compressed to 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch.
  3. Transfer the seared mushrooms to a shallow dish and add the beet juice, liquid aminos, vegetarian oyster sauce, liquid smoke, garlic powder, onion powder, and white pepper. Turn to coat thoroughly. Let them marinate for at least 30 minutes, or cover and refrigerate for up to 8 hours, turning occasionally.
  4. While the mushrooms marinate, prepare the jaew. Toast the jasmine rice in a dry skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until deeply golden and fragrant, about 5 to 8 minutes. Let cool completely, then grind into a coarse powder using a spice grinder, mortar and pestle, or blender.
  5. In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, tamarind pulp, lime juice, chili flakes, and sugar, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Add the minced shallot, cilantro, and toasted rice powder, then stir well.
  6. When ready to cook the mushrooms again, heat the same skillet over medium-high heat. Remove the mushrooms from the marinade, letting any excess drip off, and return them to the hot pan. Press them firmly once again, cooking until the exterior is deeply browned and slightly crisp and the marinade has caramelized around the edges, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Take care not to let the sugars in the marinade burn; adjust the heat as needed.
  7. Transfer the mushroom steaks to a cutting board and let them rest briefly before slicing into thick strips. Serve immediately with sticky rice, sliced cucumbers, lime wedges, and plenty of jaew for dipping.

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Nutrition Information:

Yield:

3

Serving Size:

1

Amount Per Serving: Calories: 139Total Fat: 3gSaturated Fat: 1gUnsaturated Fat: 2gSodium: 731mgCarbohydrates: 32gFiber: 5gSugar: 13gProtein: 7g

All nutritional information presented within this site are intended for informational purposes only. I am not a certified nutritionist and any nutritional information on BitterSweetBlog.com should only be used as a general guideline. This information is provided as a courtesy and there is no guarantee that the information will be completely accurate. Even though I try to provide accurate nutritional information to the best of my ability, these figures should still be considered estimations.

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