Tag: entree

Nogada or Nothing

It took me years to work up the nerve to make chiles en nogada for the first time. Embossed into my old notepad of recipe ideas and dream dishes, the mark remained indelible and untouched, surviving the migration to a digital file. It’s not that the procedure is terribly difficult, and even in my self-deprecating humility, I know I’m reasonably capable in the kitchen. It is, however, no quick-fix meal. The time commitment is as daunting as the list of ingredients that scrolls on longer than your average CVS receipt. Between the four components (roasted peppers, picadillo, walnut sauce, and garnish), you’re looking at an all-day affair.

Was tackling such a behemoth worth the effort, anguish, and wait? Absolutely. Is this going to be an everyday staple from here on out? Absolutely not.

Proudly Mexican, Through and Through

Thankfully, chiles en nogada traditionally grace the dinner table but once a year, in celebration of Mexican Independence Day on September 16th. Arriving at the height of summer harvests, when fresh walnuts and ruby red pomegranates overlap with poblano pepper season, the recipe is as much a celebration of the land’s abundance as it is of the nation’s independence.

The dish is widely believed to have originated in Puebla in 1821, where legend tells of Augustinian nuns preparing it to honor Agustín de Iturbide after he signed the Treaty of Córdoba, securing Mexico’s independence from Spain. Whether every detail of the story is fact or folklore is still debated, but one thing remains undisputed: the recipe proudly wears the colors of the Mexican flag. Emerald green poblanos and parsley, creamy white walnut sauce, and brilliant red pomegranate arils dress the plate as an edible symbol of national pride.

Essential Ingredients

Chiles en nogada is built on contrasts, with every ingredient playing against another.

Tart green apples, juicy peaches, and the concentrated pops of sweetness from raisins contrast with the savory richness of the filling, grounded by meaty oyster mushrooms and good old fashioned TVP for protein. Tomatoes, onions, garlic, and spices, leaning more on warming cinnamon than scalding heat, bring everything into balance, melding what sound like discordant components into a harmonious array of flavors.

The walnuts in particular deserve special attention. Fresh walnuts are noticeably milder and softer than what you’ll find commonly sold year-round, lacking much of the bitterness that develops with age. If you can find them, they’re worth seeking out. Otherwise, soaking conventional walnuts before blending helps mellow their sharper edge into the silky, luxurious nogada that gives the dish its name.

When it comes to picking poblanos, size matters. I prefer medium chiles for more reasonable portions, and making more servings that can be augmented with a side salad for the truly ravenous, but the tradeoff is that you’ll need to dedicate more time to roasting and peeling.

Hot Tips for Painless Prep

Dispatching the poblanos is easily the most annoying part of the whole procedure. My favorite method is tossing them over the open flame on my gas range, turning them with tongs until the exteriors are thoroughly charred and blackened. You could use the same technique on the grill if you’d got it fired up, or roast them in the oven or air fryer. Once they look like proper burn victims, let them steam in a covered bowl or paper bag to help separate the skin from the flesh. Peeling them under cool water helps remove any sticky spots, if you’re struggling. The peppers can be prepped up to three days in advance when stored in an airtight container or zip top baggie in the fridge.

Likewise, the walnut sauce can be blended hours or days ahead and refrigerated until needed. Bear in mind that it will continue to thicken as it sits, so you may need to add more vegetable broth to achieve a pourable consistency.

Of all the components, the picadillo actually benefits from a little time to rest, allowing the fruit, spices, and aromatics to meld. I’d wager you can make it up to a week in advance when stored properly, or, if you’re feeling particularly industrious on a random afternoon, frozen for a much later date.

Chiles en nogada are much more enjoyable when you haven’t spent the whole day in the kitchen laboring over them.

Pick Your Picadillo

“Picadillo” simply means “minced” or “finely chopped,” but beyond that, the possibilities are nearly endless. Every region, and every family, has their own interpretation. Some versions lean heavily into warm spices, others feature dried fruit or olives, while potatoes and carrots make an appearance in others.

This version stays true to the spirit rather than the letter of tradition, replacing the typical ground beef with hearty mushrooms and textured vegetable protein while preserving the signature interplay of savory aromatics and fresh fruit. The result is substantial enough to satisfy on its own, if the complete package becomes too overwhelming to wrap up. There’s nothing wrong in serving picadillo as an entree alongside rice, any day of the week.

Putting the Pieces Together

After all the chopping, roasting, and simmering, putting together the pieces is almost as satisfying as taking your first bite. Walnut sauce cascades over supple stuffed peppers, reminiscent of chiles rellenos stripped down to their most elegant form. A final shower of jewel tone pomegranate arils and parsley adds brightness, crunch, and the iconic color palate that transforms a humble stuffed pepper into a dish worthy of celebration.

Worthy of a Celebration

It’s embarrassing, almost shameful, how long this recipe languished on the “maybe” pile. Make no mistake, it’s an undertaking not to be underestimated, but a scalable culinary summit rather than an impossible feat. Most importantly, the experience of finally taking a forkful out of a plush stuffed pepper genuinely measures up to the effort it took to make it. As a truly festive centerpiece worthy of a special occasion, it’s one I’d consider recreating for Christmas, too. It’s not simply beautiful, though it certainly is that. It’s a celebration of fleeting seasons, regional traditions, and the joy of sharing something made with care. If you’ve been keeping your own list of dream recipes, consider this your sign to finally cross one off.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)10 Comments

Wordless Wednesday: Soy Joy

Anh Em – Tofu Banh Mi
Blue Sushi Sake Grill – Tofu Lettuce Wraps
Bodhi Viet Vegans – Braised Tofu
Bodhi Viet Vegans – Orange Tofu
Bodhi Viet Vegans – Tofu Pudding
Bodhi Viet Vegans – Vegan Crab-Tofu Noodle Soup
Dumpling World – Spicy Tofu Potstickers
Fire Bowl Cafe – Thai Basil Vegetable Stir Fry with Soft Tofu
Franchia Vegan Cafe – Sizzling Braised Tofu with Kabocha and Eggplant
Ho Ho Chinese BBQ – Fried Tofu with Special Salt
Kuway’s Banh Mi – Zucchini Noodles with Garlic Tofu
The One Pho – Tofu Vermicelli Noodle Salad
Yellow Ranger – Popcorn Tofu

Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments

Barley There

Unlike many other ancient grains, barley has managed to maintain a modest degree of modern visibility. Most people are far more likely to recognize it in its whole grain form than as a flour. Even so, I’d wager the first thing that came to mind when I mentioned “barley” was soup. Mushroom-barley, vegetable-barley, beef-barley; it’s been pigeonholed into brothy comfort food for so long that it’s easy to forget how versatile and diverse it truly is.

Black Nile Barley is a perfect example. Past the familiar taxonomy of hulled, hulless, quick, and pearl barley lies a world of heirloom cultivars. Wrapped in a rich purple-black sheath, this dramatic variety is poised to pull barley out of the stockpot and back onto the center of the table. No mere novelty, this rare heritage grain isn’t found in your average grocery store. 

Trying Grand Teton Ancient Grains Black Nile Barley berries changed everything I thought I knew about the grain. Instead of the pale, utilitarian barley found collecting dust in bulk bags, these berries looked almost jewel-like. Cooked, they held their shape beautifully, delivering a pleasantly chewy texture and a depth of flavor that felt far more akin to wild rice or farro than the barley of my childhood.

Black Nile Barley Tabbouleh

Origin of the Original Barley

Descended from dark-pigmented barley strains historically grown in the Nile River region, evidence of wild barley dates back over 10,000 years ago in the Fertile Crescent and the Tibetan Plateau. In Ancient Egypt, Black Nile Barley was the food of the people, while emmer was reserved for nobility. Thriving alongside the Nile River, barley was abundant and affordable, feeding both humans and animals alike. While selective breeding has often prioritized yield and uniformity, it has also stripped away the vitality, nutrition, and complex flavors that once defined it.

Mediterranean Black Nile Barley Salad

Barley a Difference

What about black barley? Black barley isn’t a single variety, but rather a broad category encompassing any barley with a naturally dark outer bran. Black Nile Barley is one such variety, distinguished by its origin and heirloom pedigree. While all Black Nile Barley is black barley, not all black barley is Black Nile Barley. Other black barley cultivars are grown throughout Asia, Africa, and Europe, each with its own history, flavor, and growing characteristics. The distinction is similar to that between apples and Honeycrisp apples or rice and Carolina Gold rice. Black Nile Barley, such as that grown by Grand Teton Ancient Grains, preserves the defining characteristics of this historic cultivar that make it so special.

Black Nile Barley Pitaya Porridge

Nutritional Dark Horse

Even the most impoverished Egyptians found great nourishment in Black Nile Barley. Distinguished by its naturally dark indigo bran, the color comes from anthocyanins, the same family of pigments that gives blueberries, black rice, and purple corn their dramatic hues, along with a impressive dose of antioxidants. Aside from the arresting color, even more notable is remarkable amount of manganese in every 1/2 cup (cooked) serving, to the tune of 97% of your RDA. It’s also a great source of thiamine, selenium, magnesium, riboflavin, niacin, iron, phosphorus, potassium, zinc, and copper. Who needs supplements when you can eat your vitamins?

In case you’re worried more about the bigger picture of macronutrients, don’t worry; Black Nile Barley has you covered. Barley has more fiber and protein than modern wheat, at a whopping 16 grams and 11 – 12 grams, respectively. Because the outer bran remains intact, you get many more nutritional benefits than pearl barley, too. The only dietary caution is that it does contain gluten, and is thus unsuitable for our celiac friends.

Black Nile Barley and Vegetable Soup

What Does Black Nile Barley Taste Like?

Pearl barley is prized for its mild, subtly sweet, and agreeable taste that plays well with all herbs and spices. Black Nile Barley has a bolder character that isn’t afraid to make itself known. Possessing an incredible depth of flavor that leads with notes of roasted nuts, bitter cacao, and freshly brewed coffee, it unfolds into a rich, earthy complexity with a lingering finish reminiscent of dark toast and molasses. Bold yet balanced, it’s a grain that refuses to stay in the background, bringing character and intensity to every dish it touches.

How to Cook Black Nile Barley

Like all unprocessed whole grains, Black Nile Barley rewards a little patience. On the plus side, it’s much harder to overcook, and grains remain firm and toothsome for a wide range of possible uses. Rinsing the grains before cooking is a good idea to remove any dust or field debris, but soaking isn’t necessary.

  • Stove Top: Combine 1 cup of Black Nile Barley with 3 cups of water or broth. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cover and cook for 45 – 60 minutes, or until the grains are tender but still pleasantly chewy. If any liquid remains, simply drain it before serving. Letting the barley rest for 5 to 10 minutes off the heat allows the grains to firm up slightly and absorb any remaining moisture.
  • Pressure Cooker: Combine 1 cup of Black Nile Barley with 2 1/2 cups of water or broth and cook on High Pressure for 20 – 25 minutes. Allow the pressure to release naturally for about 10 minutes before venting any remaining pressure. Drain if needed. The result is evenly cooked barley with a tender interior and satisfying bite.

Black Nile Barley Veggie Burger

Black Nile Barley Uses and Recipe Ideas

Anywhere you’d reach for farro, wheat berries, brown rice, or even quinoa, Black Nile Barley can step in just as easily. Lending both visual appeal and satisfying bite to everything from simple side dishes to hearty mains, it’s a remarkably versatile ingredient that deserves far more than a supporting role.

  • Grain bowls: Build a hearty meal by topping cooked Black Nile Barley with roasted vegetables, crispy tofu, beans, avocado, or a drizzle of tahini. Its chewy texture holds up well under warm and cold toppings alike.
  • Grain salads: Toss cooled barley with fresh herbs, cucumbers, tomatoes, roasted vegetables, nuts, vegan cheese, or a bright vinaigrette. Unlike softer grains, it stays pleasantly firm even after a day in the refrigerator. That makes it especially great fodder for packed school lunches, travel, picnics, and potlucks.
  • Pilafs: Sauté onions, garlic, and mushrooms before simmering the barley in vegetable broth. Finish with fresh herbs for a simple yet deeply flavorful side dish.
  • Soups and stews: While Black Nile Barley is versatile enough to move beyond soup, it still excels in its most familiar role. The grains absorb broth without losing their shape, making them ideal for vegetable, mushroom, or bean-based soups.
  • Breakfast porridge: Cook the barley until tender, then serve with your favorite non-dairy milk, cinnamon, maple syrup or agave, toasted nuts, and fresh or dried fruit for a hearty alternative to oatmeal.
  • Stuffed vegetables: Mix cooked barley with sautéed vegetables, herbs, vegan cheese, and/or meatless grounds before stuffing cabbage, peppers, tomatoes, zucchini, or winter squash. 
  • Veggie burgers: Fold cooked barley into bean- or lentil-based burger mixtures to add texture, structure, and a satisfying chew.
  • Risotto, AKA barlotto: Swap Arborio rice for barley to create a rustic variation on risotto with any seasonal vegetables on hand.
  • Bread: Typically used alongside at least some wheat flour, barley flour by itself makes incredibly dense loaves. Best served toasted or alongside brothy dishes where it can soak up liquid, this bread leans into heft rather than levity, often improved by a touch of moisture or fat to soften its naturally tight crumb.
  • Pilaf: Simply cooked with broth, olive oil, butter, or fresh herbs, Black Nile Barley makes an excellent side dish to pair with your favorite plant-based protein. If you want to spice things up, consider adding curry powder, toasted cashews, and fresh cilantro to make a biryani-inspired variation.

The Stuff(ing) of Legends

Barley has culinary potential that far exceeds its traditional trappings of soup and stew, but there’s still merit in those classic parings. Deeply comforting, tried-and-true, mushroom-barley soup is the unshakable foundation that inspired these stuffed peppers. Instead of watering things down with a half gallon of broth, the same earthy flavors are concentrated into a hearty filling of sautéed onions, mushrooms, herbs, and chewy Black Nile Barley. Tucked inside sweet bell peppers and baked until tender, they capture everything that makes the classic pairing so enduring while proving that barley deserves a place well beyond the stock pot.

What’s Old is New Again

Black Nile Barley is a bridge to the past. Cultivated for millennia yet largely absent from modern menus, the fresh crop from Grand Teton Ancient Grains offers a rare opportunity to reconnect with one of humanity’s oldest cultivated grains. Its remarkable history is reason enough to seek it out, but its rich, nutty flavor, satisfying chew, and remarkable versatility are what earn it a permanent place in my pantry.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Acts of Lasagna

Lasagna is an act of love. Make no mistake, when you sit down to a glorious stack of noodles, red sauce, and cheese, someone is making a statement about their feelings. They’ve chosen to spend a solid chunk of their day planning, prepping, simmering, layering, and baking, all to share something that will disappear in minutes. Even quick fixes or make-ahead recipes declare, loud and clear, “I care about you.”

Love isn’t simple and easy like the movies, though, and a hot, freshly baked slab of lasagna isn’t always within reach. Time and energy for cooking is at a premium, especially for young families as school starts up once again. That doesn’t mean we should make compromises, in showing love, receiving it, or eating homemade lasagna. That’s what skillet lasagna was made for.

Home Skillet

Stack the deck in your favor without making sloppy stacks of noodles that will only be knocked over on the plate. Skillet lasagna keeps everything that matters while cutting out the time-consuming pageantry. Undulating ribbons of broken lasagna noodles tangle within a rich ragu beneath a crown of bubbling, lightly browned melted cheese. Instead of carefully constructing layer upon layer and waiting for the oven to work its magic, the whole thing comes together in under 30 minutes, start to finish, ready to serve right out of the pan.

Mushrooms Over Meat

The real secret to success is the incredible meaty umami imparted by Fungitarian Marinara. Given how unremarkable all of the other ingredients are, I was honestly shocked at the remarkable depth of flavor I found at the end of my fork. These saucy shrooms do the heavy lifting here, bringing a long-simmered complexity that tastes like it should have taken hours to develop. Walnuts and red lentils help complete that meaty sensation with toothsome texture and deeply satisfying protein in spades. It’s the kind of robust gravy that even your Italian nonna would be impressed by.

Use Your Noodles

Just because this dish was inspired by lasagna, it doesn’t mean you need to strictly stick to lasagna noodles. Any pasta will work, really, with my top suggestions being:

  • Mafalda: Short, wide, frilly ribbons that are essentially mini lasagna sheets, I would actually prefer these more than the full-sized version broken into pieces, but they’re more expensive and difficult to find.
  • Pappardelle, linguine, or fettuccini, broken into pieces: Though narrower, you’ll still enjoy a similar experience with small sheets of pasta in every bite.
  • Penne, ziti, rigatoni, or elbows: Any tube shape is ideal for holding more sauce, and this is definitely one saucy dish.

Truly, any noodle you prefer will work, as long as it’s cooked al dente before it hits the skillet. That includes alternatives like gluten-free pasta, high-protein pasta, and whole grain pasta.

Streamlined Solutions

For that matter, you could make this a one-pan meal if you wanted to use no-boil noodles to begin with. While I prefer cooking standard lasagna noodles separately to prevent them from getting mushy, if that extra pot of boiling water is what’s standing between you and a home-cooked dinner, by all means, take the assist when you can. In that case, you’ll want to add the broken no-boil noodles at the same time as the marinara, and increase the amount of broth to 2 1/2 – 3 cups total, adjusting as needed to yield tender pasta and plenty of sauce.

Smart Swaps

Call it “deconstructed” if you’re feeling fancy and don’t be afraid to make it your own! Want it cheesier? Fold extra vegan mozzarella shreds in before broiling, or drop dollops of tofu ricotta on top afterwards. Can’t eat nuts? Substitute crumbled tempeh or in a pinch, omit entirely. I’ve also had fantastic results using Fungitarian Original, and I have a good feeling that Asian Zing or Taco would be excellent candidates when you’re craving something more like a spicy arrabiata sauce.

Say It With Lasagna

Lasagna will always be a dish that comes straight from the heart, no matter what form it takes. I think “acts of lasagna” is my primary love language, since it leaves no room for ambiguity. There’s no second-guessing when someone feeds you lasagna, be it traditional, skillet, shortcut, or somewhere in between. They’re wearing their heart on their sleeve as plainly as the pasta on your plate. Making it more complicated doesn’t make it any better. Even if you’re cooking solo and planning for leftovers, self-love is essential, too. We all deserve more lasagna in our lives.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)13 Comments

Eternal Summer

Inspiration isn’t a commodity that can be bought and sold, nor is it a punctual visitor dutifully keeping an appointment on the calendar. Untamed, fickle thing that it is, it may show up late, early, or not at all, and there’s no way of knowing which. I can never begrudge it, frustrating as the dance may be, because eventually, albeit sometimes painstakingly, it does always grace me with its presence. I’m not sure if that completely explains why I was dispatching a whole summer’s harvest of fresh produce in the dead of winter, but I can be equally unpredictable, too.

This recipe has been a long time coming. Suggesting that others defy seasonality as carelessly as I did would seem irresponsible. I was simply following my muse, you see, and in a dearth of color and warmth, all it wanted was to paint the kitchen in the vibrant, sun-soaked hues of July. Just picturing the juicy tomatoes hanging heavily on their vines began to thaw my imagination.

All it took was one extra eggplant, leftover from another project, to light the creative spark. Channeling my future self, I made a one-pan meal I knew would be just the ticket in a few months. Simple, fresh, bright, and balanced, it’s exactly the sort of thing I would make with peak summer produce. Aside from slicing and dicing, the oven does all the work. 

The cherry tomatoes collapse and burst into a rich, sweet jam that acts as a built-in sauce. The eggplant softens into a downright velvety texture, soaking up the olive oil and garlic like a sponge, while the fennel mellows into something deeply caramelized and sweet. Once pulled from the heat, the warm, jammy vegetables are tossed directly on the sheet pan with plump butter beans for substance, briny olives for a sharp pop of contrast, and a generous handful of fresh basil to wake everything up.

There’s no shame in eating it right off the sheet, provided you have a trusted trivet underneath. I found it even more gratifying, however, to spoon it over a big bowlful of soft polenta, letting the corn grits soak in all the juices. Of course, that may owe a lot to the urge for comfort and warming dishes when I made it, which is why I’m very happy to report that it’s just as compelling when tossed with pasta, hot or cold. In fact, you can chill the whole thing and take it outside for a picnic; something I could only dream of in that moment.

If there’s one thing I’ve learned over the years, it’s that you should never expect inspiration to simply land on your doorstep. If it does, though, you should always answer the door, no matter the time or season.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments