Wordless Wednesday: All the Fixin’s

Casa De Luz – Lunch
Community Vegan – Smova’d Chick’n Plate
Bouldin Creek Cake – Bouldin Tofu Omelet
Oseyo – Beoseot Dosirak
Aster’s Ethiopian – Vegetarian Combination
Happea Vegans – Burnt Ends, Fried Chicken, Potato Salad, Collard Greens

Not Mincing Words

For those who know, the mere mention picadillo conjures up images of a warm, cozy kitchen, saucepan bubbling away on the stove, filling the whole house with the scent of simmering spices. Humble, hearty, and always comforting, it’s put protein at the center of the plate for centuries. Now, combining modern technology and culinary traditions, it’s time that picadillo goes plant-based.

What Is Picadillo?

Though often described as a beef hash, some might argue that it has more in common with American sloppy Joe’s or chili con carne. The word itself comes from the Spanish picar, or “to mince,” alluding to the roughly chopped meat. Ingredients vary wildly depending on who you ask, but common, unifying factors usually include some sort of tomatoes, onions, and peppers.

Picadillo Goes Vegan

While old-fashioned picadillo preparations are limited to beef and/or pork, there aren’t any constraints to the creative possibilities with plant-based alternatives. Staying true to the humility and lack of pretension in the original dish, I went with classic textured vegetable protein, also known as TVP or TSP (textured soy protein; same difference.) The problem is that by itself, TVP is incredibly bland.

That’s where Sugimoto Shiitake Powder comes into play! A small sprinkle adds incredible depth of savory flavor that tastes downright meaty, without any overt mushroom flavor. To up the ante, I love adding finely minced shiitake caps or stems, but this approach is perfect for picky eaters and mushroom haters. You get all of the umami, amplifying the inherent richness of the tomatoes, olives, and spices, with zero downsides.

This same trick works beautifully when using fresh or frozen vegan ground beef, too. Cooking it plain, straight out of the package might taste good, but adding some Sugimoto Shiitake Powder will make it great.

Regional Variations Of Picadillo

There’s no wrong way to make picadillo; it’s one of those dishes where everyone and their grandma makes it just a little bit differently. There are, however, distinctive styles found in specific regions:

  • Cuban picadillo, which I model my version after, is briny and rich, with capers, green olives, and sweet raisins for contrast.
  • Puerto Rican picadillo starts with sofrito as its base and is highly seasoned with adobo and sazon.
  • Mexican picadillo typically includes many more vegetables, such as potatoes, carrots, and green peas.
  • Filipino picadillo has ample umami thanks to the inclusion of soy sauce and fish sauce, and is often more soupy or stew-like in consistency.

Plenty of overlap and fusion exists between each version. It’s a recipe ripe to mix and match, pick your favorite elements, and make your own!

Serving Suggestions

Prepping your picadillo is only the first of many delicious decisions. It’s an ideal entree for meal prep since its versatility lends it to myriad serving suggestions. A few of my favorites include:

  • Wrapped up in a burrito
  • On top of tacos or nachos
  • Sandwiched inside a torta or burger bun
  • Alongside rice, mashed potatoes, fried plantains, polenta, or pasta
  • Stuffed inside peppers, cabbage rolls, empanadas, croquettes, or frittatas

Don’t Rush The Process

When making picadillo, the most important ingredient is time. Slowly simmering, patiently, gently, allows all these seemingly disparate elements to meld into a harmonious whole. That’s not say it can’t be a quick fix meal, at least on the second time around. In fact, I prefer eating the leftovers, which keep brilliantly in the fridge for up to a week, or in the freezer for 4 to 6 months, becoming even more flavorful and balanced as they sit.

I’m not going to mince words here; this meatless picadillo is your new favorite meal waiting to happen, no matter how you serve it up.

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Off The Butcher’s Block

Italians may have perfected and popularized pasta as we know it today, but they aren’t the only ones that know how to use their noodles. Boundaries that once defined traditional dishes are rapidly fading away, giving rise to bold, unexpected flavor innovations. One such marriage of culinary traditions is Pasta Alla El Chacinero, a vibrant twist on the beloved Italian classic, Pasta Alla Norcina. This Tex-Mex masterpiece seamlessly blends the rustic elegance of Umbrian pasta with the bold, robust flavors of Southwestern cuisine.

What Is Pasta Alla El Chacinero?

To better understand the inspiration, we need to talk about Pasta Alla Norcina. A lesser known specialty in the US, it’s an Umbrian treasure, not to be missed. Bringing together hearty pork sausage, fresh black truffles, and a rich cream sauce, it’s an ode to the sleepy mountain town of Norcia. “Norcina” also happens to be slang for “pork butcher” in Italian, emphasizing the importance of this meaty staple. Of course, if we’re going to change it up, why not start with plant-based meats?

Pasta Alla El Chacinero is my own crazy Frankenstein invention, bringing together these classic elements, reimagined through vegan ingredients and Mexican seasonings. “El Chacinero” means “butcher” in Spanish, to tie on to the original thread, starting with spicy chorizo and finely minced Sugimoto Shiitake mushroom stems instead. While most dried mushroom stems remain far to woody and fibrous even after a long soak, these are every bit as valuable as the caps. Ever since my early experiments, turning them into taco meat, I’ve been hooked on extending my meatless grounds with this umami superfood.

Amplifying that rich source of Glutamate, huitlacoche takes the place of black truffle, lending a complex, earthy, and slightly sweet flavor to the dish, with a hint of smokiness. Finally, rather than white wine, the pan is deglazed with a Mexican-style lager, for just a touch of brightness.

Simple Swaps

If you’ve already used up all your shiitake stems for another recipe, don’t worry. There are easy workarounds to get the same depth of flavors in your dish. Either…

  1. Omit the stems and use 12 ounces of plant-based chorizo. Add 2 teaspoons of Sugimoto shiitake powder for the same earthy, meaty, aromatic experience.
  2. Replace the stems with an equal amount (by weight) of whole Sugimoto Shiitake mushrooms. Either donko or koshin are excellent options here.

Tips For Success

Both humble and luxurious, it’s hard to mess up such a simple recipe. Essential steps to pay attention to for the very best results include:

  • Thoroughly browning the meatless mix. You want that subtle caramelization, those crisp edges, the toothsome, chewy finish it creates to lend greater nuance and textural contrast to the finished dish.
  • Sauteing the huitlacoche with the aromatics. Unlike truffles, this so-called “corn smut” won’t lose flavor when cooked, and in fact, benefits from some time on the heat. Straight out of the can as it’s typically sold in the US, it can have a harsh flavor that doesn’t immediately mesh well with the other ingredients.
  • Initially cooking the pasta just shy of al dente. If it’s fully cooked befor hitting the sauce, it’ll get overdone when mixed in and simmered again.
  • Reserving the pasta water. If you forget and dump it down the drain, leftover mushroom soaking water or vegetable broth is a nice substitute to add more flavor, but you really want that additional starch to bring the sauce together.

Why Is Pasta Alla El Chacinero Destined To Be Your New Favorite?

Beyond fideo, Mexican pasta dishes are traditionally few and far between. Most notably, all seem to rely heavily on tomatoes, which is nice in the summer, but a bummer for colder months. Lean into comfort with a dish lighter on produce, heavier on a decadently creamy, base and is infused with the slow-simmer essence of umami. That velvety sauce coats the pasta generously, the spices of meatless chorizo growing warmer and brighter with each bite. It’s a perfect one-pot dish that needs no additional sides or garnishes to be a wholly satisfying meal.

If you’re tired of standard bolognese or cream sauces, Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms stems are just what you need for a frugal, fun, and fresh twist on the usual noodle. Waste not, want not, and eat better. For a dish originally famous for its pork, it sure does well without any meat at all.

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A Balancing Act

Cooking, like life in general, is all about balance. Harmonizing contrasting flavors and textures are obvious and critical components, but there’s so much more to it than that. There’s also the balance between needs and wants; aversions and cravings; nutrition and comfort. Balance goes beyond what’s on the plate when you do it right.

Creamy walnut and roasted lemon pasta is my best example of balance at the moment. At a time when winter weather is prone to unpredictable
tantrums, farmers market hauls are pitiable, and inspiration is scant, this simple dish covers the full spectrum of demands and desires.

Elegance in Simplicity

Meyer lemons, naturally sweet, are roasted to lightly char the edges, adding a unique caramelized flavor to the sauce. Blended walnuts create the creamy base, their earthiness accentuating the toasted notes, and subtle bitterness bolstering the sourness of the citrus. From there, seasonings are minimal, emphasizing umami with nutritional yeast and miso paste, plus a touch of red pepper flakes for a bright finish. To round it all out, a handful of greens incorporates more freshness, while still cooking down to a soft, silky texture.

Don’t sweat the details. Campanelle pasta, those flourishing trumpet shapes, are my favorite here, but anything from rigatoni to bow ties will do. Meyer lemons aren’t the only sort that will work, if your choices for citrus are limited.

Better Balance

That’s the thing about balance; there’s no one way to achieve it. What’s more, it isn’t finite. You’re allowed to redefine what balance means to you. I just hope this recipe might help you find it like I did.

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Moussaka Brouhaha

Stop calling moussaka “Greek lasagna.” There’s no pasta, no marinara sauce, and cheese is minimal, at best. Moussaka, the national dish of Greece, is so much more than another miscellaneous casserole. Complex and distinctive, no one would ever confuse the two if they ever had a taste.

Tender eggplant supports the hearty and robustly seasoned protein in a red wine-infused sauce, featuring onions, garlic, and aromatic spices like cinnamon and nutmeg. My small twist on tradition here is to skip the meat, of course, and opt for earthy, naturally beefy Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms instead. The pièce de résistance is a velvety béchamel sauce, covering the whole dish like a plush, velvety blanket.

What Is Moussaka?

The history of moussaka is as rich and diverse as the layers of flavors in the dish itself. The roots of moussaka can be traced back to the Middle East, where it’s believed to have originated from the Arabic word “musaqqa’a,” meaning chilled or cooled, reflecting the dish’s early preparation methods.

As the culinary influence of the Middle East spread, moussaka found its way into the Mediterranean and Balkan regions, each culture incorporating its own unique twist on the dish. The earliest versions were likely simple combinations of layered vegetables and spices, reflecting the agricultural abundance of the region.

When moussaka arrived in Greece, it underwent a transformation that would become the blueprint for the beloved dish we know today. The Greek moussaka typically features layers of eggplant, minced meat (often lamb or beef), tomatoes, onions, and a creamy béchamel sauce. The dish is then baked and served hot, creating a harmonious blend of flavors and textures.

Natural Variations

The evolution of moussaka doesn’t stop there. As it traveled through various regions, each culture added its own distinctive touch.

  • In Turkey, moussaka might include zucchini alongside or instead of eggplant.
  • In the Middle East, chickpeas and additional vegetables might help stretch the meat filling.
  • In the Balkans, sliced potatoes run parallel with the eggplant for more defined, sizable layers.

What Makes A Great Moussaka?

The best moussaka strikes a balance across all strata, creating a dish that is both comforting and invigorating. The marker of success is when each bite captures the essence of Mediterranean cuisine, inviting you to savor each layer and appreciate the complexity of this iconic dish.

  • Tender, Hearty Protein: Meat is moot when you start with a base of crumbled tofu for substance and minced Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms for style. Freezing, thawing, and draining the tofu first is the secret to creating a texture eerily similar to ground meat. Umami shiitake mushrooms enhance that illusion with ample free glutamate that creates an unmistakable umami sensation. Even when finely minced, their thick, chewy, tender caps ensure that every mouthful has a completely satisfying bite.

  • Luscious Béchamel: One of the “mother sauces” of French cuisine made from a simple roux and seasoned with nutmeg, the some versions take it a step further by adding eggs for an even more decadent texture. Bypass all of that by simply using tahini and a pinch of sulfurous black salt instead.
  • Layered Perfection: Sliced eggplants are typically salted to draw out excess moisture and bitterness, before being added to the mix, but that shouldn’t be the end of the story. Taking an extra few minutes to then roast the vegetables does wonders to concentrate the flavor and unlock subtle sweetness through caramelization. That attention to detail also ensures cleaner layers that won’t water down the dish.

Tips For Success and Serving Suggestions

Making a layered casserole like this can be something of a production. Though it does take time and effort, it’s completely feasible when you break it down! Don’t forget how to fill your plate with flare when you’re ready to eat.

  • Patience is a virtue. If you can wait for the moussaka to cool, you’ll be able to get much cleaner slices with consistent layers. As you might have guessed from these photos, this is not a quality I possess. Even if you end up scooping it out piping hot with a spoon, I promise it will be delicious in any form.

  • Make ahead. Moussaka tastes even better the next day, after all the herbs and spices have had time to mingle, so feel free to bake it well in advance and reheat it before serving. It can be stored in the fridge for 6 to 7 days, or frozen for up to 6 months. Simply allow it to thaw to room temperature and reheat at 350 degrees for 15 – 20 minutes before enjoying.
  • Perfect pairings. While moussaka is a whole feast in and of itself, you can stretch the meal to feed more with a few simple side dishes. Top recommendations include sautéed greens, salad, bread, and tzatziki.

The popularity of moussaka has transcended cultural boundaries, becoming a beloved dish around the world. Its versatility allows for endless variations that blend elements from different culinary traditions. It’s about time we include Japanese inspiration into that mix, thoughout the unassailable powerhouse of tofu and shiitake mushrooms.

Today, moussaka stands as a testament to the interconnectedness of food cultures, showcasing how a dish can travel across borders, absorbing influences, and evolving into something uniquely delicious. With this latest evolution and many more sure to come, moussaka continues to be a symbol of shared culinary heritage and the joy of discovering new flavors through the ages.

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Have Your Cake Noodle And Eat It, Too

Jewish Christmas is by far my favorite of all the winter holidays. Though it may not be marked on the calendar as such, I’d argue that it’s every bit as legitimate as all the “national holidays” that social media loves to celebrate. Notably absent is the expectation of exchanging gifts, spending all day in the kitchen creating an elaborate meal, or time with the extended family with questionable political views. Quite the contrary; you’re fully expected to spend a good chunk of the day sitting in silence, enjoying the darkness of a movie theater, where you can (hopefully) avoid most people, then treat yourself to the finest American Chinese cuisine that your nearest hole in the wall takeout spot can provide.

Usually, I’ll have my order figured out long before the credits roll. Who am I kidding, I usually have my dinner game plan set before breakfast. The day can change and my mood may shift, but the craving remains the same. It seems like there are more people than ever seeking solitude at the movies, which means my social battery is still exhausted by that single outing. Returning to the safety of my home, I’m much happier to slip back in front of the stove to craft my own homage to Chinese takeout.

Moreover, for anyone that appreciates the art of crispy cake noodles, you’ll know that they’re best when eaten right away, making them a poor candidate for extended transport. For best results, you’ve gotta eat them right away, which means taking matters into your own hands. Luckily, that’s much easier than it may seem, thanks to the beloved air fryer.

What Are Cake Noodles?

Backing up a step, cake noodles may also be called noodle cakes, fried noodle cakes, or pan-fried noodle cakes, depending on the actual preparation and how literal the menu writer wants to be. They’re found in various permutations across numerous Asian cuisines, and have a notable following especially in Hawaii. Rather than a typical stir fry that creates charred chewy stands of individual noodles, the entire portion of noodles stays together in one large clump and is cooked to a crunchy finish. Any combination of protein and vegetables will then be cooked separately and plated right on top. The noodles begin to soften as the sauce they’re topped with begins to soak in, which makes them such an ephemeral, short-lived entree.

What Are The Best Type Of Noodles?

All noodles are beautiful, but if we’re talking about crispy cake noodles, wheat-based chow mein is the gold standard. Technically, any noodle can become a cake noodle, but very thick options like udon won’t become crispy all the way through, and gluten-free noodles may not stick together properly. There’s no harm in experimenting, though; even if you don’t make a cake noodle, you’ll still make something entirely delicious.

Why Use An Air Fryer?

We all know by now that air fryers are really just glorified countertop ovens, but that doesn’t make them any less convenient. In this case, their quick cooking capabilities and high temperatures create a perfect crunchy crust across your entire noodle cake, fully enclosed so there’s no temptation to stir and break them up. This preparation is especially well-suited to basket-style models for their round shape, popping perfectly circular noodle disks every time.

What makes cake noodles so special is their textural contrasts. Golden-brown, fried noodles, crispy and delicate on the outside yet tender on the inside, shine when plated with a savory medley of vegetables, succulent tofu, and a rich, flavorful sauce that coats every strand.

These little crispy marvels serve as a reminder of the simplicity and pleasure of Jewish Christmas. No need for complicated recipes, extravagant dishes, or expensive takeout – just a hearty, satisfying meal that warms the soul. It’s a culinary embrace that brings us comfort and joy during this quiet celebration. Even if you’re celebrating a more conventional Christmas this year, you might want to consider a round-two taking this approach the following day.

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