Tag: recipe

Nogada or Nothing

It took me years to work up the nerve to make chiles en nogada for the first time. Embossed into my old notepad of recipe ideas and dream dishes, the mark remained indelible and untouched, surviving the migration to a digital file. It’s not that the procedure is terribly difficult, and even in my self-deprecating humility, I know I’m reasonably capable in the kitchen. It is, however, no quick-fix meal. The time commitment is as daunting as the list of ingredients that scrolls on longer than your average CVS receipt. Between the four components (roasted peppers, picadillo, walnut sauce, and garnish), you’re looking at an all-day affair.

Was tackling such a behemoth worth the effort, anguish, and wait? Absolutely. Is this going to be an everyday staple from here on out? Absolutely not.

Proudly Mexican, Through and Through

Thankfully, chiles en nogada traditionally grace the dinner table but once a year, in celebration of Mexican Independence Day on September 16th. Arriving at the height of summer harvests, when fresh walnuts and ruby red pomegranates overlap with poblano pepper season, the recipe is as much a celebration of the land’s abundance as it is of the nation’s independence.

The dish is widely believed to have originated in Puebla in 1821, where legend tells of Augustinian nuns preparing it to honor Agustín de Iturbide after he signed the Treaty of Córdoba, securing Mexico’s independence from Spain. Whether every detail of the story is fact or folklore is still debated, but one thing remains undisputed: the recipe proudly wears the colors of the Mexican flag. Emerald green poblanos and parsley, creamy white walnut sauce, and brilliant red pomegranate arils dress the plate as an edible symbol of national pride.

Essential Ingredients

Chiles en nogada is built on contrasts, with every ingredient playing against another.

Tart green apples, juicy peaches, and the concentrated pops of sweetness from raisins contrast with the savory richness of the filling, grounded by meaty oyster mushrooms and good old fashioned TVP for protein. Tomatoes, onions, garlic, and spices, leaning more on warming cinnamon than scalding heat, bring everything into balance, melding what sound like discordant components into a harmonious array of flavors.

The walnuts in particular deserve special attention. Fresh walnuts are noticeably milder and softer than what you’ll find commonly sold year-round, lacking much of the bitterness that develops with age. If you can find them, they’re worth seeking out. Otherwise, soaking conventional walnuts before blending helps mellow their sharper edge into the silky, luxurious nogada that gives the dish its name.

When it comes to picking poblanos, size matters. I prefer medium chiles for more reasonable portions, and making more servings that can be augmented with a side salad for the truly ravenous, but the tradeoff is that you’ll need to dedicate more time to roasting and peeling.

Hot Tips for Painless Prep

Dispatching the poblanos is easily the most annoying part of the whole procedure. My favorite method is tossing them over the open flame on my gas range, turning them with tongs until the exteriors are thoroughly charred and blackened. You could use the same technique on the grill if you’d got it fired up, or roast them in the oven or air fryer. Once they look like proper burn victims, let them steam in a covered bowl or paper bag to help separate the skin from the flesh. Peeling them under cool water helps remove any sticky spots, if you’re struggling. The peppers can be prepped up to three days in advance when stored in an airtight container or zip top baggie in the fridge.

Likewise, the walnut sauce can be blended hours or days ahead and refrigerated until needed. Bear in mind that it will continue to thicken as it sits, so you may need to add more vegetable broth to achieve a pourable consistency.

Of all the components, the picadillo actually benefits from a little time to rest, allowing the fruit, spices, and aromatics to meld. I’d wager you can make it up to a week in advance when stored properly, or, if you’re feeling particularly industrious on a random afternoon, frozen for a much later date.

Chiles en nogada are much more enjoyable when you haven’t spent the whole day in the kitchen laboring over them.

Pick Your Picadillo

“Picadillo” simply means “minced” or “finely chopped,” but beyond that, the possibilities are nearly endless. Every region, and every family, has their own interpretation. Some versions lean heavily into warm spices, others feature dried fruit or olives, while potatoes and carrots make an appearance in others.

This version stays true to the spirit rather than the letter of tradition, replacing the typical ground beef with hearty mushrooms and textured vegetable protein while preserving the signature interplay of savory aromatics and fresh fruit. The result is substantial enough to satisfy on its own, if the complete package becomes too overwhelming to wrap up. There’s nothing wrong in serving picadillo as an entree alongside rice, any day of the week.

Putting the Pieces Together

After all the chopping, roasting, and simmering, putting together the pieces is almost as satisfying as taking your first bite. Walnut sauce cascades over supple stuffed peppers, reminiscent of chiles rellenos stripped down to their most elegant form. A final shower of jewel tone pomegranate arils and parsley adds brightness, crunch, and the iconic color palate that transforms a humble stuffed pepper into a dish worthy of celebration.

Worthy of a Celebration

It’s embarrassing, almost shameful, how long this recipe languished on the “maybe” pile. Make no mistake, it’s an undertaking not to be underestimated, but a scalable culinary summit rather than an impossible feat. Most importantly, the experience of finally taking a forkful out of a plush stuffed pepper genuinely measures up to the effort it took to make it. As a truly festive centerpiece worthy of a special occasion, it’s one I’d consider recreating for Christmas, too. It’s not simply beautiful, though it certainly is that. It’s a celebration of fleeting seasons, regional traditions, and the joy of sharing something made with care. If you’ve been keeping your own list of dream recipes, consider this your sign to finally cross one off.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)10 Comments

Hail, Caesar!

Applying heat to lettuce goes against everything I’ve ever been taught about the proper treatment of delicate leafy greens. Scared off by visions of slimy, wilted iceberg, the mere concept of tossing a few defenseless heads of romaine onto a roaring grill sounds like some nauseating joke. Heat and its transformative properties have the last laugh though; screaming-hot grates merely char the surface, imparting a bold new world of flavor in their wake while leaving the refreshingly crisp heart intact.

Bringing the Heat

In mere minutes, the outer leaves begin to blister and char around the edges, picking up a heady smokiness that no bottled dressing could ever imitate. Still, the center remains impossibly cool and crunchy, creating a study in contrasts with every bite: warm and cold, tender and crisp, bitter and sweet vegetal freshness. Drenched in a bold, punchy garlic dressing, heightened with lemon, briny capers, and enough umami to make your taste buds sing, it plays the classic tune in a new key.

Side or Centerpiece

Effortlessly elegant as a side dish, it’s equally happy stealing the spotlight for dinner. You’ve got beans in the dressing for your protein, after all, if you’re worried about nutritional balance. In that case, I’d say this recipe serves one, so plan to double up or don’t plan to share. This recipe was originally printed in my best-selling cookbook, Real Food, Really Fast! and is still a regular guest at my table to this day.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments

New Ground Rules

Ground beef is a nearly universal staple ingredient that does a lot of heavy lifting. Foundational for countless comfort foods and macro-conscious meals alike, it’s the heart and soul of sauces, soups, tacos, casseroles, and so much more. Something of a culinary chameleon, it moves fluidly between cuisines and cooking styles, anchoring dishes with richness and texture, whether it’s merely playing a supporting role or taking center stage. That’s exactly what makes it such a challenge to replace.

DIY, Don’t Buy

Many plant-based alternatives come with a price tag that makes the average Taco Tuesday feel like a splurge. Homemade versions can have wildly varying results, veering from mushy to rubbery to gritty with little warning based on glowing recipe reviews. All we want are simple ingredients, easy prep, an undeniably meaty flavor, toothsome chew, and a solid dose of protein. Is that so much to ask? I didn’t think so, which is why I took matters into my own hands.

Where’s The Beef?

Powered by Naked Pea protein powder and vital wheat gluten, this recipe transforms a handful of pantry staples into remarkably hearty vegan ground beef crumbles with an impressive nutritional profile. Nutritional yeast layers in savory depth, while mushroom broth, soy sauce, ketchup, and vegan Worcestershire sauce create a rich umami backbone that tastes far greater than the sum of its parts. Finally, a touch of beet powder provides subtle color, helping the finished crumbles look as robust as they taste. In a matter of minutes and minimal prep, they’re ready to step into virtually any role traditionally reserved for ground meat.

Everyday Essentials

Since first developing this foolproof formula, I’ve made sure I have a batch on hand at all times. It freezes beautifully and comes in clutch when throwing together a quick meal. Given the infinite number of ways you can use it, you could very well eat it everyday without getting bored, or even once repeating a recipe. Craving a giant bubbling vat of chili? Want a quick quesadilla after midnight? Feeding the fam on a budget? These crumbles rise to every occasion.

  • Soups and stews: Yes, you can make one mean chili, with or without beans, thanks to this mega meaty groundwork. Brothier bowls are just as satisfying, including beef and barley soup, Italian wedding soup, and minestrone soup, just for starters.
  • Mexican Meals: Tacos, burritos, enchiladas, nachos, and quesadillas are a natural fit for these protein powerhouses. Seasoned with cumin, chili powder, smoked paprika, garlic, and a few hot chilies, no one would know there’s zero animal meat involved.
  • Pasta and sauces: From your generic ragu to hearty Bolognese, this is your new BBF (that’s Best Beef Friend, thank you very much). Don’t forget about meat lasagna, ravioli, stuffed shells, baked ziti, and even stroganoff.

  • Salads and grain bowls: Even a simple greens-and-protein combo becomes a full meal with the right toppings. Cheeseburger salads are a favorite of mine, but for something warmer, you can always make Chipotle bowls at home with seasoned rice, beans, salsa, and guacamole. I’ve used it to make an amazing soboro donburi that I plan to repeat very soon, too.
  • Casseroles: Anything goes in the cozy, slightly chaotic world of casseroles, where everything gets baked together and somehow benefits for it. Think shepherd’s pie, tater tot hot dish, tamale pie, upgraded green bean casserole, or anything involving a layer of melted vegan cheese.
  • Stuffed Vegetables: Bell peppers, zucchinis, tomatoes, eggplant, baked potatoes, mushrooms, cabbage; anything that can be hollowed out or turned into an edible wrapper can become a prime protein delivery system.
  • Bread, buns, and pockets: It’s hard to contain so much deliciousness, but you can still try by making sloppy joes, pita pockets, steamed buns, lettuce wraps, and even calzones or empanadas if you’re going all-out. Dumplings, be it wontons or gyoza, steamed or pan-fried, fit right in as another way to wrap everything up into a satisfying bite-sized package.

High Protein Whole Foods

Built with flavor and texture as the primary goals, these crumbles still pull impressive numbers when it comes to nutrition. Namely, 33 grams of protein per serving or 133 grams for the whole batch, and that’s before adding them to whatever meal you’re making. They’re already doing the bulk of the work on their own before veggies and grains enter the picture. You can also expect 2.5 grams of fiber per serving, which, while unimpressive on its own, is 2.5 grams more than conventional meat.

Beyond the Package

Store-bought meat alternatives certainly have their place, but with just a bit more planning and preparation, we can do better. Naked Pea makes that process remarkably simple. Its neutral flavor and substantial protein content provide the backbone needed to create the most beefy meatless grounds to have ever graced your plate, without requiring a chemistry degree.

The most useful ingredient in your kitchen is one that helps inspire dozens more dishes. Ground meat fits that bill and this lookalike behaves in exactly the same way. Macro goals to meet? Many mouths to feed? Your dinner destiny is in your hands.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Eternal Summer

Inspiration isn’t a commodity that can be bought and sold, nor is it a punctual visitor dutifully keeping an appointment on the calendar. Untamed, fickle thing that it is, it may show up late, early, or not at all, and there’s no way of knowing which. I can never begrudge it, frustrating as the dance may be, because eventually, albeit sometimes painstakingly, it does always grace me with its presence. I’m not sure if that completely explains why I was dispatching a whole summer’s harvest of fresh produce in the dead of winter, but I can be equally unpredictable, too.

This recipe has been a long time coming. Suggesting that others defy seasonality as carelessly as I did would seem irresponsible. I was simply following my muse, you see, and in a dearth of color and warmth, all it wanted was to paint the kitchen in the vibrant, sun-soaked hues of July. Just picturing the juicy tomatoes hanging heavily on their vines began to thaw my imagination.

All it took was one extra eggplant, leftover from another project, to light the creative spark. Channeling my future self, I made a one-pan meal I knew would be just the ticket in a few months. Simple, fresh, bright, and balanced, it’s exactly the sort of thing I would make with peak summer produce. Aside from slicing and dicing, the oven does all the work. 

The cherry tomatoes collapse and burst into a rich, sweet jam that acts as a built-in sauce. The eggplant softens into a downright velvety texture, soaking up the olive oil and garlic like a sponge, while the fennel mellows into something deeply caramelized and sweet. Once pulled from the heat, the warm, jammy vegetables are tossed directly on the sheet pan with plump butter beans for substance, briny olives for a sharp pop of contrast, and a generous handful of fresh basil to wake everything up.

There’s no shame in eating it right off the sheet, provided you have a trusted trivet underneath. I found it even more gratifying, however, to spoon it over a big bowlful of soft polenta, letting the corn grits soak in all the juices. Of course, that may owe a lot to the urge for comfort and warming dishes when I made it, which is why I’m very happy to report that it’s just as compelling when tossed with pasta, hot or cold. In fact, you can chill the whole thing and take it outside for a picnic; something I could only dream of in that moment.

If there’s one thing I’ve learned over the years, it’s that you should never expect inspiration to simply land on your doorstep. If it does, though, you should always answer the door, no matter the time or season.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Bide Your Thyme

Time is the greatest commodity, far more valuable than any currency. Always in short supply, even when it seems to stretch on forever, we end up realizing it’s never enough. Thyme, however… I may have found the limit.

Thyme’s Up

Thyme grows like a weed in the right conditions, which are apparently perfectly aligned with a neglected little corner of my yard. I don’t remember planting it, and certainly not tending to it, and still it proliferates with a vaguely threatening tenacity. It throws its leaves back and laughs at the coddled tomato vines that wither right alongside their thriving stems. Any bounty is worth celebrating, but like the equally vivacious sage that would take over the whole garden, and possibly move right into my house if I left the door open too long, it’s challenging to use up massive quantities of such a potent herb.

Perfect Thyme-ing

Most recipes call for a few sprigs of thyme at most, later instructing the obedient cook to remove them before serving, like spent bay leaves that have overstayed their welcome. Scrolling through my mental Rolodex of the most thyme-laden dishes possible, I came up with only one possible solution: za’atar. Dried herbs and spices typically make up this Middle Eastern seasoning blend, used to brighten everything from hummus to flatbread, but why can’t we take a fresher approach?

It’s About Thyme

Za’atar pesto is the ideal solution to a profusion of fresh thyme. Softened by the addition of spinach, it’s every bit as bright, zingy, earthy, and herbaceous without punching you in the face with every bite. You can double or triple the recipe for an especially exuberant garden and freeze it to keep all winter, and beyond. That may not be necessary, though, when you can use it like traditional basil pesto in or on top of:

  • Pizza and focaccia
  • Pasta and gnocchi
  • Toast
  • Salad dressing
  • Roasted vegetables
  • Bean dip
  • Sandwiches and wraps
  • Grilled plant proteins
  • Tofu scramble
  • Just about everything edible, short of dessert

Thyme-ly Reminder

Never take time, nor thyme, for granted. Both are precious, when you know what to do with them.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)11 Comments

Garden Variety Tartare

I love a beet tartare, for the obvious pun of course, and because I have a certain penchant for beets in all forms. The closest a beet can come to emulating beef, however, is that one letter difference in name. For that, we need to call in the tomatoes.

Tartare’d Up

Tomato tartare is a perennial favorite for highlighting peak summer produce in its own rights. Juicy heirlooms bursting from their skins, meaty and umami, have never been shy about stealing the show. Taken a step further, they’ve been used to create remarkably successful facsimiles for tuna, often infused with sake, miso, and nori, transformed into convincingly oceanic sashimi and sushi. Even I started getting sidetracked by luminous tuna towers with layers of buttery avocado, but there’s something different I was after. What I haven’t seen, amidst all that tomato ephemera, is a tartare where they’re treated like proper raw beef.

Yes, We Can

Turn up your nose at canned tomatoes if you’d like, but they’re exactly the shortcut we need here. Quality counts, especially with so few ingredients, so don’t skimp on the bargain brand and expect a gourmet experience. Proper peeled, whole San Marzano tomatoes are ripe with natural savory flavor, never mealy, and downright buttery on the tongue. Slowly roasting them further concentrates their flavor and removes any watery excess that might shatter the illusion. Then, it’s as simple as folding in the traditional accoutrements of shallots, capers, and Dijon mustard, though a dab of sharp horseradish would be most welcome, too.

Raise a Toast to Tomatoes

Make it fancy by using a ring mold, or cookie or biscuit cutter, to make a perfect round on the plate, or pile it just as elegantly into a dish. What really seals the deal, though it’s entirely aesthetic, is the peeled yellow cherry tomato, looking for all the world like a gleaming egg yolk sitting delicately on top. Who thought tartare could be totally made from tomatoes, while still carrying the same beefy swagger, rich decadence, and undeniable air of a special occasion? You will, the moment you dip in your toast.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments