Be Afraid, Be Veggie Afraid

One of the many great side benefits of being vegan is that you never need to worry about inadvertently chomping down on a random bone fragment. There’s no risk of a poorly prepared fish fillet sending you to the dentist and all wings are boneless by default. Gone is the mysterious crunch that makes you question every life choice that led you to this particular meal.

Bone-Headed Ideas

Naturally, I’m just the kind of crazy to add extra bones back in. Marinated mushroom skulls are admittedly more cute than creepy, with wide-set eyes and toothy grins, charmingly cartoonish in an undead kind of way. They have a certain cheerful morbidity to them, which feels about right for Halloween.

Out Of My Skull

It turns out, white button mushrooms are just the right shape and size to transform into tiny skulls. A few strategic cuts create the eyes and nose, while a few lines through the stem do a surprisingly convincing job of suggesting little rows of rotten teeth. From there, all it takes is a leisurely bath in a punchy marinade for them to haunt your waking dreams. Umami, tangy, garlicky, and herbaceous enough to wake the dead, they really are scary good.

Proper Resting Places

Marinated mushrooms are infinitely useful for any event. Bury them in a graveyard of salad greens or sink them into a pit of hummus, ideally blended with blood-red beets, for maximum effect. They’d also be right at home on an antipasto platter, scattered over crostini, or passed around on toothpicks as a grim appetizer. Don’t forget about gnarled noodles splattered with red sauce, too.

It takes just a little extra effort to give the classic marinated mushroom a more festive face, but I promise, you’ll reap the rewards.

Continue reading “Be Afraid, Be Veggie Afraid” →

Gotta Khach Them All

If you’ve ever wanted to eat an entire loaf of buttered bread that’s smothered in melted cheese (and really, who hasn’t?), then khachapuri was made for you. So integral to Georgian culture that it is used as an economic indicator, known as the “khachapuri index,” its importance to the culture cannot be overstated.

Nearly every region of Georgia has its own distinct variation, but it’s the Adjarian khachapuri that’s captured the hearts, and stomachs, of intrepid eaters overseas. Almost like pizza without red sauce or cheese soup in a bread bowl, there’s no denying its universal appeal.

A Worldly Bread, Baked At Home

For years, this dish remained captive on my baking wish list. It seemed like the sort of project that called for an occasion, rather than an ordinary afternoon in the kitchen. The arrival of World Bread Day was the push I needed to make it happen. For this 21st edition, I knew exactly how to celebrate.

Whatever Floats Your Bread Boat

While Adjarian khachapuri may be the version most familiar to outsiders, it’s only one of many. Across Georgia and the surrounding Caucasus, the name encompasses a wonderfully varied collection of cheese-filled breads and pies, each with its own shape, filling, and regional identity. A few of the most distinctive include:

  • Adjarian (Acharuli): The iconic boat-shaped version from Adjara is filled with cheese and baked open-faced, then finished with a raw egg yolk and often an extra pat of butter. The egg and butter are stirred into the molten cheese before eating, with pieces of crust used for dipping.
  • Imeretian (Imeruli): The classic round, enclosed khachapuri from Imereti has a thin layer of cheese fully enclosed inside the dough and baked until golden. The filling traditionally uses Imeretian cheese, which is mild, tangy, and a bit crumbly.
  • Megrelian (Megruli): Similar to Imeretian khachapuri, this version adds cheese both inside and on top. The extra layer melts and browns in the oven, creating an especially cheesy, blistered crust.
  • Achma: Sometimes described as the Georgian answer to lasagna, this one is made from multiple thin layers of dough that are boiled, layered with cheese and butter, and baked until crisp and golden on top. Unlike the other versions, it isn’t really a stuffed bread so much as a layered cheese-and-dough casserole.
  • Gurian (Guruli): A crescent-shaped variation from Guria, traditionally filled with cheese and hard-boiled egg, it’s especially associated with Christmas and New Year’s celebrations.
  • Ossetian (Khabizgini): A round, enclosed pie filled with cheese and potato, heartier and more substantial than many other Georgian khachapuri, thanks to the extra spuds.

Not Milk?

Veganizing such a dairy-laden dish is really quite simple. A straightforward swap to plant-based milk and butter takes care of the dough without changing its essential character. To replicate the mild, salty, tangy, and slightly sour qualities of sulguni cheese, the one-two punch of mashed tofu and vegan mozzarella shreds does the trick. Plus, with the added benefit of soy protein, you can justify such an indulgence as a proper meal. At least, I like to think so.

Aquafaba takes care of the egg wash and then for the crowning jewel, I used my favorite trompe l’oeil of peeled yellow cherry tomatoes for those golden “yolks” on top. When all is said and done, you still get that gloriously gooey, cheesy, buttery bread that makes khachapuri so irresistible in the first place.

No Forks Required

Emerging from the oven puffed and deeply golden around the edges, cheese browned and bubbling in the center, it’s hot enough to scald and still impossible to let cool. I initially made the faux pas of cutting it into strips, unaware that the proper way to indulge was to dive in, hands first. Tear off a chunk of crust, drag it through all that molten goodness, and pay no mind to any greasy fingers. Khachapuri is a communal experience, where everyone can dig in together, reaching across the table to leave no corner untouched.

It’s Easy Being Cheesy

After dreaming about the pure savory decadence that is khachapuri for so long, I can unequivocally say that the reality is even better. No more difficult than your average batch of dinner rolls, such a delicacy is well within anyone’s grasp, should they be bold enough to bake it.

Continue reading “Gotta Khach Them All” →

For Crying Out Loud

Thailand is a vegan paradise any day of the year. The word “jay” (เจ) is the key that will unlock centuries of Buddhist tradition, built on the principles of compassion towards all creatures. Splashed across yellow flags, restaurant signs, market stalls, and food packages, it’s as common as seeing an “open” sign on establishments elsewhere.

During Thailand’s annual Vegetarian Festival, it’s the only game in town, transforming even the most meat-centric dishes with plant-based makeovers. Experiencing firsthand how incredible the food scene was on a random visit in January, I can’t begin to imagine such superabundance on display. It’s a dream of mine to return in time for the festivities, though I may truly eat myself to ruin, given half a chance.

Much of the attraction is the opportunity to eat traditional Thai foods that usually don’t come with a naturally vegan or vegetarian option. Something like Crying Tiger (เสือร้องไห้; Suea Rong Hai) is exactly what I would make a beeline for. As meat-centric as main dishes come, it’s essentially just grilled beef served with Nam Jim Jaew (น้ำจิ้มแจ่ว). Bold yet balanced, a riot of intense flavors, it’s a deceptively simple dish that packs a serious punch. Despite how central the beef is to the whole concept, it’s just as simple to make it meatless.

While I remain firmly grounded for this year’s Vegetarian Festival, the distance won’t stop me from getting a taste of the celebration at home. Lion’s mane mushrooms are truly the beef of the earth, capable of being compressed into outrageously decadent steaks, the likes of which could satiate the most ravenous omnivore. A hard sear and heavy weight develops a smoky, charred crust encasing a succulent and tender interior, ideal for dousing in that fiery dipping sauce for a final kiss of heat.

The name “Crying Tiger” is considerably more contested than its ingredient list. There are plenty of theories about what exactly brought those tears to the tiger’s eyes. My favorite is the most folkloric, imagining that people would come across the remains of cattle hunted by tigers, with the brisket left behind. They would take this particularly rich cut for themselves, imagining the tiger looking back in regret at the delicious morsel it had abandoned. Hopefully it’s some consolation to our tiger that there was no kill necessary to make this particular prize.

Even if you skip the entree, don’t pass on the jaew. If you make the entree, you’re best advised to double the jaew. This potent mixture of dried chiles, lime juice, toasted rice powder, and shallot is the sort of condiment that makes itself indispensable, bringing enough heat, acidity, and depth to transform whatever happens to be within dipping distance. Though it usually contains fish sauce, I find that a combination of soy sauce and tamarind fills the gap with all the salty, tangy, pungent umami you could ask for.

Crying Tiger is served without fanfare or pretension, alongside a mound of sticky rice and fresh vegetables or herbs to temper the intensity. I like keeping that same spirit here. Let the lion’s mane take center stage, supported by a cooling, gently contrasting cast of characters. A few slices of crisp cucumbers, juicy tomato wedges, or fresh lettuce is all you really need, though you could always add a side of papaya salad or a light vegetable soup to stretch your entree into more servings.

Thailand will have to wait. Until then, homemade sliced lion’s mane mushroom steak, glossy with with fiery jaew, is hardly suffering. When you eat enough hot chilies to bring tears to your own eyes, you can almost imagine the tiger’s face when it realizes the best part of the meal has escaped its paws yet again.

Continue reading “For Crying Out Loud” →

Nogada or Nothing

It took me years to work up the nerve to make chiles en nogada for the first time. Embossed into my old notepad of recipe ideas and dream dishes, the mark remained indelible and untouched, surviving the migration to a digital file. It’s not that the procedure is terribly difficult, and even in my self-deprecating humility, I know I’m reasonably capable in the kitchen. It is, however, no quick-fix meal. The time commitment is as daunting as the list of ingredients that scrolls on longer than your average CVS receipt. Between the four components (roasted peppers, picadillo, walnut sauce, and garnish), you’re looking at an all-day affair.

Was tackling such a behemoth worth the effort, anguish, and wait? Absolutely. Is this going to be an everyday staple from here on out? Absolutely not.

Proudly Mexican, Through and Through

Thankfully, chiles en nogada traditionally grace the dinner table but once a year, in celebration of Mexican Independence Day on September 16th. Arriving at the height of summer harvests, when fresh walnuts and ruby red pomegranates overlap with poblano pepper season, the recipe is as much a celebration of the land’s abundance as it is of the nation’s independence.

The dish is widely believed to have originated in Puebla in 1821, where legend tells of Augustinian nuns preparing it to honor Agustín de Iturbide after he signed the Treaty of Córdoba, securing Mexico’s independence from Spain. Whether every detail of the story is fact or folklore is still debated, but one thing remains undisputed: the recipe proudly wears the colors of the Mexican flag. Emerald green poblanos and parsley, creamy white walnut sauce, and brilliant red pomegranate arils dress the plate as an edible symbol of national pride.

Essential Ingredients

Chiles en nogada is built on contrasts, with every ingredient playing against another.

Tart green apples, juicy peaches, and the concentrated pops of sweetness from raisins contrast with the savory richness of the filling, grounded by meaty oyster mushrooms and good old fashioned TVP for protein. Tomatoes, onions, garlic, and spices, leaning more on warming cinnamon than scalding heat, bring everything into balance, melding what sound like discordant components into a harmonious array of flavors.

The walnuts in particular deserve special attention. Fresh walnuts are noticeably milder and softer than what you’ll find commonly sold year-round, lacking much of the bitterness that develops with age. If you can find them, they’re worth seeking out. Otherwise, soaking conventional walnuts before blending helps mellow their sharper edge into the silky, luxurious nogada that gives the dish its name.

When it comes to picking poblanos, size matters. I prefer medium chiles for more reasonable portions, and making more servings that can be augmented with a side salad for the truly ravenous, but the tradeoff is that you’ll need to dedicate more time to roasting and peeling.

Hot Tips for Painless Prep

Dispatching the poblanos is easily the most annoying part of the whole procedure. My favorite method is tossing them over the open flame on my gas range, turning them with tongs until the exteriors are thoroughly charred and blackened. You could use the same technique on the grill if you’d got it fired up, or roast them in the oven or air fryer. Once they look like proper burn victims, let them steam in a covered bowl or paper bag to help separate the skin from the flesh. Peeling them under cool water helps remove any sticky spots, if you’re struggling. The peppers can be prepped up to three days in advance when stored in an airtight container or zip top baggie in the fridge.

Likewise, the walnut sauce can be blended hours or days ahead and refrigerated until needed. Bear in mind that it will continue to thicken as it sits, so you may need to add more vegetable broth to achieve a pourable consistency.

Of all the components, the picadillo actually benefits from a little time to rest, allowing the fruit, spices, and aromatics to meld. I’d wager you can make it up to a week in advance when stored properly, or, if you’re feeling particularly industrious on a random afternoon, frozen for a much later date.

Chiles en nogada are much more enjoyable when you haven’t spent the whole day in the kitchen laboring over them.

Pick Your Picadillo

“Picadillo” simply means “minced” or “finely chopped,” but beyond that, the possibilities are nearly endless. Every region, and every family, has their own interpretation. Some versions lean heavily into warm spices, others feature dried fruit or olives, while potatoes and carrots make an appearance in others.

This version stays true to the spirit rather than the letter of tradition, replacing the typical ground beef with hearty mushrooms and textured vegetable protein while preserving the signature interplay of savory aromatics and fresh fruit. The result is substantial enough to satisfy on its own, if the complete package becomes too overwhelming to wrap up. There’s nothing wrong in serving picadillo as an entree alongside rice, any day of the week.

Putting the Pieces Together

After all the chopping, roasting, and simmering, putting together the pieces is almost as satisfying as taking your first bite. Walnut sauce cascades over supple stuffed peppers, reminiscent of chiles rellenos stripped down to their most elegant form. A final shower of jewel tone pomegranate arils and parsley adds brightness, crunch, and the iconic color palate that transforms a humble stuffed pepper into a dish worthy of celebration.

Worthy of a Celebration

It’s embarrassing, almost shameful, how long this recipe languished on the “maybe” pile. Make no mistake, it’s an undertaking not to be underestimated, but a scalable culinary summit rather than an impossible feat. Most importantly, the experience of finally taking a forkful out of a plush stuffed pepper genuinely measures up to the effort it took to make it. As a truly festive centerpiece worthy of a special occasion, it’s one I’d consider recreating for Christmas, too. It’s not simply beautiful, though it certainly is that. It’s a celebration of fleeting seasons, regional traditions, and the joy of sharing something made with care. If you’ve been keeping your own list of dream recipes, consider this your sign to finally cross one off.

Continue reading “Nogada or Nothing” →

Hail, Caesar!

Applying heat to lettuce goes against everything I’ve ever been taught about the proper treatment of delicate leafy greens. Scared off by visions of slimy, wilted iceberg, the mere concept of tossing a few defenseless heads of romaine onto a roaring grill sounds like some nauseating joke. Heat and its transformative properties have the last laugh though; screaming-hot grates merely char the surface, imparting a bold new world of flavor in their wake while leaving the refreshingly crisp heart intact.

Bringing the Heat

In mere minutes, the outer leaves begin to blister and char around the edges, picking up a heady smokiness that no bottled dressing could ever imitate. Still, the center remains impossibly cool and crunchy, creating a study in contrasts with every bite: warm and cold, tender and crisp, bitter and sweet vegetal freshness. Drenched in a bold, punchy garlic dressing, heightened with lemon, briny capers, and enough umami to make your taste buds sing, it plays the classic tune in a new key.

Side or Centerpiece

Effortlessly elegant as a side dish, it’s equally happy stealing the spotlight for dinner. You’ve got beans in the dressing for your protein, after all, if you’re worried about nutritional balance. In that case, I’d say this recipe serves one, so plan to double up or don’t plan to share. This recipe was originally printed in my best-selling cookbook, Real Food, Really Fast! and is still a regular guest at my table to this day.

Continue reading “Hail, Caesar!” →

New Ground Rules

Ground beef is a nearly universal staple ingredient that does a lot of heavy lifting. Foundational for countless comfort foods and macro-conscious meals alike, it’s the heart and soul of sauces, soups, tacos, casseroles, and so much more. Something of a culinary chameleon, it moves fluidly between cuisines and cooking styles, anchoring dishes with richness and texture, whether it’s merely playing a supporting role or taking center stage. That’s exactly what makes it such a challenge to replace.

DIY, Don’t Buy

Many plant-based alternatives come with a price tag that makes the average Taco Tuesday feel like a splurge. Homemade versions can have wildly varying results, veering from mushy to rubbery to gritty with little warning based on glowing recipe reviews. All we want are simple ingredients, easy prep, an undeniably meaty flavor, toothsome chew, and a solid dose of protein. Is that so much to ask? I didn’t think so, which is why I took matters into my own hands.

Where’s The Beef?

Powered by Naked Pea protein powder and vital wheat gluten, this recipe transforms a handful of pantry staples into remarkably hearty vegan ground beef crumbles with an impressive nutritional profile. Nutritional yeast layers in savory depth, while mushroom broth, soy sauce, ketchup, and vegan Worcestershire sauce create a rich umami backbone that tastes far greater than the sum of its parts. Finally, a touch of beet powder provides subtle color, helping the finished crumbles look as robust as they taste. In a matter of minutes and minimal prep, they’re ready to step into virtually any role traditionally reserved for ground meat.

Everyday Essentials

Since first developing this foolproof formula, I’ve made sure I have a batch on hand at all times. It freezes beautifully and comes in clutch when throwing together a quick meal. Given the infinite number of ways you can use it, you could very well eat it everyday without getting bored, or even once repeating a recipe. Craving a giant bubbling vat of chili? Want a quick quesadilla after midnight? Feeding the fam on a budget? These crumbles rise to every occasion.

  • Soups and stews: Yes, you can make one mean chili, with or without beans, thanks to this mega meaty groundwork. Brothier bowls are just as satisfying, including beef and barley soup, Italian wedding soup, and minestrone soup, just for starters.
  • Mexican Meals: Tacos, burritos, enchiladas, nachos, and quesadillas are a natural fit for these protein powerhouses. Seasoned with cumin, chili powder, smoked paprika, garlic, and a few hot chilies, no one would know there’s zero animal meat involved.
  • Pasta and sauces: From your generic ragu to hearty Bolognese, this is your new BBF (that’s Best Beef Friend, thank you very much). Don’t forget about meat lasagna, ravioli, stuffed shells, baked ziti, and even stroganoff.

  • Salads and grain bowls: Even a simple greens-and-protein combo becomes a full meal with the right toppings. Cheeseburger salads are a favorite of mine, but for something warmer, you can always make Chipotle bowls at home with seasoned rice, beans, salsa, and guacamole. I’ve used it to make an amazing soboro donburi that I plan to repeat very soon, too.
  • Casseroles: Anything goes in the cozy, slightly chaotic world of casseroles, where everything gets baked together and somehow benefits for it. Think shepherd’s pie, tater tot hot dish, tamale pie, upgraded green bean casserole, or anything involving a layer of melted vegan cheese.
  • Stuffed Vegetables: Bell peppers, zucchinis, tomatoes, eggplant, baked potatoes, mushrooms, cabbage; anything that can be hollowed out or turned into an edible wrapper can become a prime protein delivery system.
  • Bread, buns, and pockets: It’s hard to contain so much deliciousness, but you can still try by making sloppy joes, pita pockets, steamed buns, lettuce wraps, and even calzones or empanadas if you’re going all-out. Dumplings, be it wontons or gyoza, steamed or pan-fried, fit right in as another way to wrap everything up into a satisfying bite-sized package.

High Protein Whole Foods

Built with flavor and texture as the primary goals, these crumbles still pull impressive numbers when it comes to nutrition. Namely, 33 grams of protein per serving or 133 grams for the whole batch, and that’s before adding them to whatever meal you’re making. They’re already doing the bulk of the work on their own before veggies and grains enter the picture. You can also expect 2.5 grams of fiber per serving, which, while unimpressive on its own, is 2.5 grams more than conventional meat.

Beyond the Package

Store-bought meat alternatives certainly have their place, but with just a bit more planning and preparation, we can do better. Naked Pea makes that process remarkably simple. Its neutral flavor and substantial protein content provide the backbone needed to create the most beefy meatless grounds to have ever graced your plate, without requiring a chemistry degree.

The most useful ingredient in your kitchen is one that helps inspire dozens more dishes. Ground meat fits that bill and this lookalike behaves in exactly the same way. Macro goals to meet? Many mouths to feed? Your dinner destiny is in your hands.

Continue reading “New Ground Rules” →