Tag: meatless

Millet-ary Precision

History has not been kind to millet. Once one of the most crucial crops fueling human development and civilization across Africa, India, and Asia, it remains on the periphery of Western culture today. I’ll never forget the first time I sought out this pseudo-cereal to make a Macrobiotic recipe, only to be mocked for bringing “birdseed” to a potluck. Unfairly saddled with this reputation up until very recently, much like chia was once known only as fodder for terracotta planters, millet is poised for a big comeback.

Part of the problem is of accessibility. Absent from mainstream store shelves and basic bulk bin sections, Grand Teton Ancient Grains is helping to put millet back in the hands of cooks around the country. I’ll admit that millet fell off my radar until I saw it on their website, highlighted like a flashbulb memory, waiting to pick up the story right where I left it.

A Brief Overview of Millet’s Long History

Millet could have very well ruled the world. Cultivated somewhere between 8,000 to 10,000 years ago in Asia, it even pre-dates rice. It makes cameo appearances in religious texts, including the Old Testament and the Yajurveda in India, to give you a hint of its cultural significance. Once it spread to Europe, it was more common than wheat in the Middle Ages. Compared to other most whole grains, millet needs little water, scant nutrients in the soil, and is resistant to many pests both in the field and during storage.

Why, then, did it fall out of favor so precipitously? We can thank colonialism and capitalism. Western powers pushed for more wheat, rice, and corn, throwing subsidies their way to help with research and industrialization. As more processed grain products were developed, millet was left behind, giving it a reputation of being old-fashioned or food for the poor; those who couldn’t afford luxuries like sliced white bread.

What is Millet?

Though generally viewed and treated like a whole grain, millet is technically a seed. Botanically speaking, it belongs to the Poaceae family, commonly known as the grass family. There are as many as 6,000 types of millet, differing in size, color, and flavor. Pearl millet is the variety most commonly produced for human consumption globally, though there’s far greater diversity, in India especially.

Curried Millet Pulao

“Millet” is actually a broad, catch-all term for a group of small-seeded grasses cultivated for food. Common varieties include foxtail, finger, and proso (which is what Grand Teton Ancient Grains offers), just to name a few, each with its own culinary uses and regional importance. In general, millet seeds are small, round, and can range in color from pale yellow to deep red or even gray.

What unites them is less their exact botanical classification and more their shared characteristics: they are hardy, fast-growing crops that thrive in dry conditions and poor soils, making them especially important in regions prone to drought. When cooked, millet typically has a mild, slightly nutty flavor that’s reminiscent of cornmeal, and a texture that can vary from fluffy and grain-like to creamy, depending on how it’s prepared.

Strawberry Millet Pudding

Multitudinous Uses For Millet

Millet’s versatility is a big reason why it’s remained vital across so many different cultures and eras. Depending on the cooking method, it can be light and fluffy like couscous, or soft and creamy like polenta, neutral enough in flavor to be adaptable to both savory and sweet preparations.

Across the world, millet is deeply embedded in traditional cuisines.

  • In West Africa, it is used to make thick porridges and dishes like hausa koko and couscous-style preparations. In the Horn of Africa, though teff is the most famous base, millet can also be fermented into injera, the spongy flatbread that underpins many meals.
  • In India, a wide range of millets are still used to prepare everyday staples such as roti, dosa, and idly. Millet khichdi and upma are classic comfort foods that are often enjoyed for breakfast especially in rural and regional cooking.
  • In China, millet has long been used for congee instead of rice, and for brewing baijiu, a distilled spirit that dates back to the 1500s.

In more modern contexts, millet has been gaining attention as a highly nutritious and gluten-free ingredient.

  • It’s increasingly used in baked goods like breads, muffins, cereals, and crackers, either as whole seeds, rolled into flakes, puffed, or ground into flour.
  • Some brewers have also begun tapping millet as an alternative to wheat in creating gluten-free beers.
  • In the home kitchen, it’s stellar for making quick pilafs, adding to soups and stews, salads, and stir fries.
  • Many pediatricians recommend millet as a baby’s first solid food for its soft texture and easy digestibility.

Breakfast Millet Porridge with Cinnamon and Raisins

Millet’s Nutritional Highlights

Nutritionally, millet punches well above its weight. Because you’re eating the whole seed, you get the full complement of fiber and complex carbs that digest slowly. Rich in magnesium, phosphorus, and iron, some varieties are also especially high in calcium, which is unusual for grains. Since it’s naturally gluten-free, it’s a great option for people with Celiac disease or anyone looking for wheat-free options.

How To Cook Millet

Where millet loses most modern consumers is in the cooking. On the plus side, it cooks incredibly fast, but on the downside, it can just as quickly turn to mush. Sometimes that’s the goal, for creamy purees and puddings, but most Americans like their grains separate, fluffy, and distinct. Further complicating matters is that the different varieties of millet DO cook differently; it may take some trial and error to achieve the perfect ratio of water and time to make your ideal millet. Speaking specifically for cooking with Grand Teton Ancient Grains white millet, here’s what I do:

  1. Start by rinsing the millet under cool water. For the best flavor, toast the drained millet in a dry saucepan over medium heat for a few minutes, stirring frequently, until it smells lightly nutty. This step is optional, but it gives the finished dish a deeper, more complex taste.
  2. From there, add liquid; about 2 cups of water or broth for every 1 cup of millet, and a pinch of salt. Bring it to a boil, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer gently for about 15 minutes. Once the liquid has absorbed, remove it from the heat and let it sit, covered, for another 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork before serving.
  3. If you’d rather a creamy porridge consistency, increase the liquid to 3 – 5 cups, and cook for 20 – 25 minutes. In either case, there’s no need to pull out your pressure cooker, since it’s a breeze to make on the stove top, even without soaking in advance, like many harder grains would require.

Millet Polenta with Beefless Stew

Millet: The Whole Enchilada

Reinvigorated by the fresh inspiration that only a 5-pound bag of Grand Teton Ancient Grains millet can provide, my head was spinning with possibilities. What about millet-stuffed cabbage, peppers, or zucchini? I though I was being creative with a truly ground-breaking experiment, but in fact, someone beat me to the idea of making millet-based vegan cheese. Instead of driving myself crazy with the endless possibilities outstretched before me, it all clicked when I wasn’t trying to be remotely innovative. I was just tired, hungry, and thought “millet skillet” would be fun to say.

Simmered in enchilada sauce alongside a battery of sautéed fresh vegetables, this Enchilada Millet Skillet gives you the full sabor of the Mexican specialty, all in one pan. Forget about rolling tortillas and start setting the table, ASAP, because this beauty will be done in roughly minutes. Any dish instantly becomes more appealing when smothered in melted cheese, making this a surefire way to get a hearty helping of millet into your regular meal plan rotation.

If You Will It, You Can Millet

Millet defies the odds. Once revered, then relegated to birdseed, its star is beginning to rise once again. In a time when resilience, sustainability, and nutrition matter more than ever, millet checks all the boxes. Finding its way back onto our plates with renewed vigor, it brings with it centuries of history and endless possibilities for the future… Especially, for your next mouthwatering meal.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Mumbo Gumbo

No matter what I have to say about gumbo, I’m going to be wrong. This isn’t just my continuous threads of self-doubt pulling my words into misshapen, unsteady forms, but a genuine fact. I did not grow up with gumbo coursing through my veins, learning its ways from my elders, steeped in time-honored traditions. I never had to before going vegan, impossibly picky eater that I was, unswayed by the heavy mix of chicken, sausage, and shrimp. My Yankee roots cultivated no appreciation or basic awareness for the art of gumbo, only a vague impression of it as something thick, dark, and intimidatingly meaty, best left to esteemed bayou-born experts.

What is Gumbo?

Like a game of culinary telephone, my knowledge comes only from stories and photos, books and movies. All that I can say with conviction is that it starts with a roux. That, and the “Holy Trinity” of onions, celery, bell peppers, AKA Creole mirepoix. Blending the traditional foodways of Africa, France, Spain, and Native Americans alike, what you do next depends on your heritage. Some may reach for okra or filé powder for additional thickening capacity, some go straight for the proteins and load it up with everything from seafood to sausage, while still others simply hammer in the spices as if they were trying to kindle an edible inferno. The most succinct explanation for gumbo is that it’s a thick stew; choose your own adventure.

Don’t Fumble the Gumbo!

With that tenuous understanding, I proceeded to make a mockery of this beloved staple. Not intentionally, mind you, but I have a feeling that anyone hailing from New Orleans wouldn’t even glance in the direction of this Frankenstein melting pot. Using vegan sausage is probably the least controversial part of it, and that’s saying something. Swapping olive oil for butter in the roux could very well get me run out of town.

Still, I kept stirring. Once you start making a roux, you have to fully commit, whether or not you know exactly what you’re doing. The color deepens slowly, then more decisively, taking on a toasted, nutty smell that’s even more encouraging than the hue. By the time the broth was in and bubbling away, all the initially disparate pieces seemed to fit together. I don’t expect this version to resonate with anyone who was raised on the real thing, and that’s okay. Ending up with something comforting, hearty, and richly spiced is only part of the goal; paying homage to a dish that holds more history than I can speak for fills me up in a much more meaningful, lasting way.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Address to a Vegan Haggis

If there can only be one woefully misunderstood and unfairly vilified dish in our collective culinary canon, my vote would go to haggis. Yes, I’m prepared to defend the savory Scottish pudding that takes all forms of organ meat stuffed inside of a sheep’s bladder or stomach. Like any good controversy, there’s much more to it than flashy headlines, and far greater nuance than just excess organs and entrails.

Criminally Misconstrued

As of 1971, it is in fact illegal to import or produce traditional haggis in the US. Concerns stemmed from the use of sheep’s lungs, which were deemed particularly susceptible to contamination, which could in turn spread disease. While this ban still stands, more contemporary versions of haggis, made without the offending offal, are permitted. The easiest way to bypass the restriction is to simply leave the entrails in the past.

A Short History of Haggis

To fully appreciate this medieval meal of subsistence, it’s important to understand how it came to be. Sheep outnumber the human population in Scotland, making them the obvious fodder for all sorts of traditional dishes. Waste not, want not; everything remotely edible would be chopped up and heavily seasoned to detract from the more gamey flavors, heavily salted to prevent spoilage, and stuffed into some sort of casing for easy transportation. Though sausage-like in construction, it has more in common with savory English pudding in practice. The stomach or bladder would be cut open and emptied after cooking and summarily discarded. So much for all that shock value.

Somewhere along the line, shepherds began to settle more into farming, and stretching their meat with grains. Oatmeal, specifically Scotch oats or porridge oats, became an equally iconic cultural touchstone, finding its way into this amalgamation. The earliest written record from 1430 CE lists sheep’s heart, liver, lungs, oatmeal, onion, suet, and stock as the key ingredients.

Burn’s Night: Address to a Haggis

Haggis is redeemed by the annual tradition of Burn’s Night, January 25th, marking the birthday of Scotland’s national poet, Robert “Rabbie” Burns. Mr. Burns immortalized haggis in his 1787 poem Address to a Haggis, a florid, passionate ode that elevates the humble pudding to near-mythic status. In it, he celebrates not only the hearty dish itself but the rugged self-reliance of Scottish culture. So exuberant and impassioned were his words that generations have since treated the poem as both sacred text and dinner entertainment.

A Modern Answer to an Ancient Problem

Like any other recipe that’s been around for a few centuries, endless variations have sprouted from that original seed of inspiration, and vegetarian haggis is no stranger in Caledonia. By the mid–20th century, more Scots were living in cities, fewer were butchering their own livestock, and a growing number of people were deciding, out of ethics, health, or pure squeamishness, that eating minced organs packed into a stomach wasn’t quite for them.

The earliest meatless versions began appearing in the 1960s and 70s, coinciding with the rise of the modern vegetarian movement in the UK. A wholesome amalgamation of oats, legumes, root vegetables, and aggressive seasoning, it was first commercially produced in 1984, and now makes up for 25% – 40% of all haggis sales.

Makar’s Mash Bar – Vegan Haggis Interior

Bringing Haggis Back Home

When I visited Scotland last year, the single best thing I ate was the vegan haggis at Makar’s Mash Bar. Incredibly rich, tender yet toothsome, the combination of chestnuts, seeds, lentils, and oats put it over the top. Combined with the traditional pairing of neeps and tatties (rutabaga and potatoes), plus decadent whisky cream sauce, I was hooked on haggis from the first bite. Since then, I’ve been dreaming of recreating that experience and finally, the time has come.

Skipping the questionable casing entirely, since it would only be scrapped anyway, I baked my haggis in ramekins for easier prep and serving alike. Make no mistake though, this is not a quick fix meal. Your best bet is to make the main in advance, and plan to reheat when you’re ready to serve. It’s an entree worthy of a celebration, and not just Burn’s Night; my original batch went to the Thanksgiving feast, and I can see this being right at home at a Christmas dinner or Hanukkah party, too.

Haggis for the Whole Herd

Warm, peppery, a little earthy, mushrooms lay down a savory foundation, all umami and bass, while chestnuts chime in with mellow sweetness. Beans, lentils, and steel-cut oats create the hearty core of the dish, punctuated by the toothsome bite of roughly chopped seeds. What truly ties everything together, though, is the seasoning. Warm, herbaceous, complex, tart, tangy; it’s a lot to take in at once, but still never too much.

I’ve plated it two ways, and I’m sure there are many more possible. You could even leave your haggis right inside the ramekin and call it a night. In a nod to the original inspiration, I made a little tower from my neeps and tatties, emulating fine dining flair with a bit of homemade rusticity. Of course, I do much prefer the simpler approach, spooning generous portions of each side onto the plate before drowning it all in whisky cream sauce. Regardless of the arrangement, I feel confident that this take could finally sway those on the fence about haggis. After all, it did for me.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments