For Crying Out Loud

Thailand is a vegan paradise any day of the year. The word “jay” (เจ) is the key that will unlock centuries of Buddhist tradition, built on the principles of compassion towards all creatures. Splashed across yellow flags, restaurant signs, market stalls, and food packages, it’s as common as seeing an “open” sign on establishments elsewhere.

During Thailand’s annual Vegetarian Festival, it’s the only game in town, transforming even the most meat-centric dishes with plant-based makeovers. Experiencing firsthand how incredible the food scene was on a random visit in January, I can’t begin to imagine such superabundance on display. It’s a dream of mine to return in time for the festivities, though I may truly eat myself to ruin, given half a chance.

Much of the attraction is the opportunity to eat traditional Thai foods that usually don’t come with a naturally vegan or vegetarian option. Something like Crying Tiger (เสือร้องไห้; Suea Rong Hai) is exactly what I would make a beeline for. As meat-centric as main dishes come, it’s essentially just grilled beef served with Nam Jim Jaew (น้ำจิ้มแจ่ว). Bold yet balanced, a riot of intense flavors, it’s a deceptively simple dish that packs a serious punch. Despite how central the beef is to the whole concept, it’s just as simple to make it meatless.

While I remain firmly grounded for this year’s Vegetarian Festival, the distance won’t stop me from getting a taste of the celebration at home. Lion’s mane mushrooms are truly the beef of the earth, capable of being compressed into outrageously decadent steaks, the likes of which could satiate the most ravenous omnivore. A hard sear and heavy weight develops a smoky, charred crust encasing a succulent and tender interior, ideal for dousing in that fiery dipping sauce for a final kiss of heat.

The name “Crying Tiger” is considerably more contested than its ingredient list. There are plenty of theories about what exactly brought those tears to the tiger’s eyes. My favorite is the most folkloric, imagining that people would come across the remains of cattle hunted by tigers, with the brisket left behind. They would take this particularly rich cut for themselves, imagining the tiger looking back in regret at the delicious morsel it had abandoned. Hopefully it’s some consolation to our tiger that there was no kill necessary to make this particular prize.

Even if you skip the entree, don’t pass on the jaew. If you make the entree, you’re best advised to double the jaew. This potent mixture of dried chiles, lime juice, toasted rice powder, and shallot is the sort of condiment that makes itself indispensable, bringing enough heat, acidity, and depth to transform whatever happens to be within dipping distance. Though it usually contains fish sauce, I find that a combination of soy sauce and tamarind fills the gap with all the salty, tangy, pungent umami you could ask for.

Crying Tiger is served without fanfare or pretension, alongside a mound of sticky rice and fresh vegetables or herbs to temper the intensity. I like keeping that same spirit here. Let the lion’s mane take center stage, supported by a cooling, gently contrasting cast of characters. A few slices of crisp cucumbers, juicy tomato wedges, or fresh lettuce is all you really need, though you could always add a side of papaya salad or a light vegetable soup to stretch your entree into more servings.

Thailand will have to wait. Until then, homemade sliced lion’s mane mushroom steak, glossy with with fiery jaew, is hardly suffering. When you eat enough hot chilies to bring tears to your own eyes, you can almost imagine the tiger’s face when it realizes the best part of the meal has escaped its paws yet again.

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New Ground Rules

Ground beef is a nearly universal staple ingredient that does a lot of heavy lifting. Foundational for countless comfort foods and macro-conscious meals alike, it’s the heart and soul of sauces, soups, tacos, casseroles, and so much more. Something of a culinary chameleon, it moves fluidly between cuisines and cooking styles, anchoring dishes with richness and texture, whether it’s merely playing a supporting role or taking center stage. That’s exactly what makes it such a challenge to replace.

DIY, Don’t Buy

Many plant-based alternatives come with a price tag that makes the average Taco Tuesday feel like a splurge. Homemade versions can have wildly varying results, veering from mushy to rubbery to gritty with little warning based on glowing recipe reviews. All we want are simple ingredients, easy prep, an undeniably meaty flavor, toothsome chew, and a solid dose of protein. Is that so much to ask? I didn’t think so, which is why I took matters into my own hands.

Where’s The Beef?

Powered by Naked Pea protein powder and vital wheat gluten, this recipe transforms a handful of pantry staples into remarkably hearty vegan ground beef crumbles with an impressive nutritional profile. Nutritional yeast layers in savory depth, while mushroom broth, soy sauce, ketchup, and vegan Worcestershire sauce create a rich umami backbone that tastes far greater than the sum of its parts. Finally, a touch of beet powder provides subtle color, helping the finished crumbles look as robust as they taste. In a matter of minutes and minimal prep, they’re ready to step into virtually any role traditionally reserved for ground meat.

Everyday Essentials

Since first developing this foolproof formula, I’ve made sure I have a batch on hand at all times. It freezes beautifully and comes in clutch when throwing together a quick meal. Given the infinite number of ways you can use it, you could very well eat it everyday without getting bored, or even once repeating a recipe. Craving a giant bubbling vat of chili? Want a quick quesadilla after midnight? Feeding the fam on a budget? These crumbles rise to every occasion.

  • Soups and stews: Yes, you can make one mean chili, with or without beans, thanks to this mega meaty groundwork. Brothier bowls are just as satisfying, including beef and barley soup, Italian wedding soup, and minestrone soup, just for starters.
  • Mexican Meals: Tacos, burritos, enchiladas, nachos, and quesadillas are a natural fit for these protein powerhouses. Seasoned with cumin, chili powder, smoked paprika, garlic, and a few hot chilies, no one would know there’s zero animal meat involved.
  • Pasta and sauces: From your generic ragu to hearty Bolognese, this is your new BBF (that’s Best Beef Friend, thank you very much). Don’t forget about meat lasagna, ravioli, stuffed shells, baked ziti, and even stroganoff.

  • Salads and grain bowls: Even a simple greens-and-protein combo becomes a full meal with the right toppings. Cheeseburger salads are a favorite of mine, but for something warmer, you can always make Chipotle bowls at home with seasoned rice, beans, salsa, and guacamole. I’ve used it to make an amazing soboro donburi that I plan to repeat very soon, too.
  • Casseroles: Anything goes in the cozy, slightly chaotic world of casseroles, where everything gets baked together and somehow benefits for it. Think shepherd’s pie, tater tot hot dish, tamale pie, upgraded green bean casserole, or anything involving a layer of melted vegan cheese.
  • Stuffed Vegetables: Bell peppers, zucchinis, tomatoes, eggplant, baked potatoes, mushrooms, cabbage; anything that can be hollowed out or turned into an edible wrapper can become a prime protein delivery system.
  • Bread, buns, and pockets: It’s hard to contain so much deliciousness, but you can still try by making sloppy joes, pita pockets, steamed buns, lettuce wraps, and even calzones or empanadas if you’re going all-out. Dumplings, be it wontons or gyoza, steamed or pan-fried, fit right in as another way to wrap everything up into a satisfying bite-sized package.

High Protein Whole Foods

Built with flavor and texture as the primary goals, these crumbles still pull impressive numbers when it comes to nutrition. Namely, 33 grams of protein per serving or 133 grams for the whole batch, and that’s before adding them to whatever meal you’re making. They’re already doing the bulk of the work on their own before veggies and grains enter the picture. You can also expect 2.5 grams of fiber per serving, which, while unimpressive on its own, is 2.5 grams more than conventional meat.

Beyond the Package

Store-bought meat alternatives certainly have their place, but with just a bit more planning and preparation, we can do better. Naked Pea makes that process remarkably simple. Its neutral flavor and substantial protein content provide the backbone needed to create the most beefy meatless grounds to have ever graced your plate, without requiring a chemistry degree.

The most useful ingredient in your kitchen is one that helps inspire dozens more dishes. Ground meat fits that bill and this lookalike behaves in exactly the same way. Macro goals to meet? Many mouths to feed? Your dinner destiny is in your hands.

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Wordless Wednesday: It Takes Tortillas

2n1 Salad Bar and Grill – Falafel Wrap
Carnaless – Bacon Con Guacamole Breakfast Taco
Carnaless – Beef Fajita Quesadilla
De Nada Cantina – Crispy Mushroom Picadillo Tacos
De Nada Cantina – Verduras Taco
La Yunta – Chips & Guacamole
Nissi VegMex – Fajita Nachos
Rad Radish – Chilaquiles
Ramen Del Barrio – Champiñón Taco
The BE Hive – Taco Crunchwrap
Vivo – Emma’s Choice with Mushroom and Spinach Enchiladas + Tofu Puffy Taco
Vivo – Tofu Puffy Taco

Garden Variety Tartare

I love a beet tartare, for the obvious pun of course, and because I have a certain penchant for beets in all forms. The closest a beet can come to emulating beef, however, is that one letter difference in name. For that, we need to call in the tomatoes.

Tartare’d Up

Tomato tartare is a perennial favorite for highlighting peak summer produce in its own rights. Juicy heirlooms bursting from their skins, meaty and umami, have never been shy about stealing the show. Taken a step further, they’ve been used to create remarkably successful facsimiles for tuna, often infused with sake, miso, and nori, transformed into convincingly oceanic sashimi and sushi. Even I started getting sidetracked by luminous tuna towers with layers of buttery avocado, but there’s something different I was after. What I haven’t seen, amidst all that tomato ephemera, is a tartare where they’re treated like proper raw beef.

Yes, We Can

Turn up your nose at canned tomatoes if you’d like, but they’re exactly the shortcut we need here. Quality counts, especially with so few ingredients, so don’t skimp on the bargain brand and expect a gourmet experience. Proper peeled, whole San Marzano tomatoes are ripe with natural savory flavor, never mealy, and downright buttery on the tongue. Slowly roasting them further concentrates their flavor and removes any watery excess that might shatter the illusion. Then, it’s as simple as folding in the traditional accoutrements of shallots, capers, and Dijon mustard, though a dab of sharp horseradish would be most welcome, too.

Raise a Toast to Tomatoes

Make it fancy by using a ring mold, or cookie or biscuit cutter, to make a perfect round on the plate, or pile it just as elegantly into a dish. What really seals the deal, though it’s entirely aesthetic, is the peeled yellow cherry tomato, looking for all the world like a gleaming egg yolk sitting delicately on top. Who thought tartare could be totally made from tomatoes, while still carrying the same beefy swagger, rich decadence, and undeniable air of a special occasion? You will, the moment you dip in your toast.

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