If there can only be one woefully misunderstood and unfairly vilified dish in our collective culinary canon, my vote would go to haggis. Yes, I’m prepared to defend the savory Scottish pudding that takes all forms of organ meat stuffed inside of a sheep’s bladder or stomach. Like any good controversy, there’s much more to it than flashy headlines, and far greater nuance than just excess organs and entrails.
Criminally Misconstrued
As of 1971, it is in fact illegal to import or produce traditional haggis in the US. Concerns stemmed from the use of sheep’s lungs, which were deemed particularly susceptible to contamination, which could in turn spread disease. While this ban still stands, more contemporary versions of haggis, made without the offending offal, are permitted. The easiest way to bypass the restriction is to simply leave the entrails in the past.
A Short History of Haggis
To fully appreciate this medieval meal of subsistence, it’s important to understand how it came to be. Sheep outnumber the human population in Scotland, making them the obvious fodder for all sorts of traditional dishes. Waste not, want not; everything remotely edible would be chopped up and heavily seasoned to detract from the more gamey flavors, heavily salted to prevent spoilage, and stuffed into some sort of casing for easy transportation. Though sausage-like in construction, it has more in common with savory English pudding in practice. The stomach or bladder would be cut open and emptied after cooking and summarily discarded. So much for all that shock value.
Somewhere along the line, shepherds began to settle more into farming, and stretching their meat with grains. Oatmeal, specifically Scotch oats or porridge oats, became an equally iconic cultural touchstone, finding its way into this amalgamation. The earliest written record from 1430 CE lists sheep’s heart, liver, lungs, oatmeal, onion, suet, and stock as the key ingredients.
Burn’s Night: Address to a Haggis
Haggis is redeemed by the annual tradition of Burn’s Night, January 25th, marking the birthday of Scotland’s national poet, Robert “Rabbie” Burns. Mr. Burns immortalized haggis in his 1787 poem Address to a Haggis, a florid, passionate ode that elevates the humble pudding to near-mythic status. In it, he celebrates not only the hearty dish itself but the rugged self-reliance of Scottish culture. So exuberant and impassioned were his words that generations have since treated the poem as both sacred text and dinner entertainment.
A Modern Answer to an Ancient Problem
Like any other recipe that’s been around for a few centuries, endless variations have sprouted from that original seed of inspiration, and vegetarian haggis is no stranger in Caledonia. By the mid–20th century, more Scots were living in cities, fewer were butchering their own livestock, and a growing number of people were deciding, out of ethics, health, or pure squeamishness, that eating minced organs packed into a stomach wasn’t quite for them.
The earliest meatless versions began appearing in the 1960s and 70s, coinciding with the rise of the modern vegetarian movement in the UK. A wholesome amalgamation of oats, legumes, root vegetables, and aggressive seasoning, it was first commercially produced in 1984, and now makes up for 25% – 40% of all haggis sales.
Makar’s Mash Bar – Vegan Haggis Interior
Bringing Haggis Back Home
When I visited Scotland last year, the single best thing I ate was the vegan haggis at Makar’s Mash Bar. Incredibly rich, tender yet toothsome, the combination of chestnuts, seeds, lentils, and oats put it over the top. Combined with the traditional pairing of neeps and tatties (rutabaga and potatoes), plus decadent whisky cream sauce, I was hooked on haggis from the first bite. Since then, I’ve been dreaming of recreating that experience and finally, the time has come.
Skipping the questionable casing entirely, since it would only be scrapped anyway, I baked my haggis in ramekins for easier prep and serving alike. Make no mistake though, this is not a quick fix meal. Your best bet is to make the main in advance, and plan to reheat when you’re ready to serve. It’s an entree worthy of a celebration, and not just Burn’s Night; my original batch went to the Thanksgiving feast, and I can see this being right at home at a Christmas dinner or Hanukkah party, too.
Haggis for the Whole Herd
Warm, peppery, a little earthy, mushrooms lay down a savory foundation, all umami and bass, while chestnuts chime in with mellow sweetness. Beans, lentils, and steel-cut oats create the hearty core of the dish, punctuated by the toothsome bite of roughly chopped seeds. What truly ties everything together, though, is the seasoning. Warm, herbaceous, complex, tart, tangy; it’s a lot to take in at once, but still never too much.
I’ve plated it two ways, and I’m sure there are many more possible. You could even leave your haggis right inside the ramekin and call it a night. In a nod to the original inspiration, I made a little tower from my neeps and tatties, emulating fine dining flair with a bit of homemade rusticity. Of course, I do much prefer the simpler approach, spooning generous portions of each side onto the plate before drowning it all in whisky cream sauce. Regardless of the arrangement, I feel confident that this take could finally sway those on the fence about haggis. After all, it did for me.
Vegan Haggis with Neeps, Tatties, and Whisky Cream Sauce
This plant-based haggis recreates the Scottish classic with earthy mushrooms, hearty lentils and beans, and nutty chestnuts, oats, and seeds, all deeply seasoned with warm spices. Topped with a silky whisky cream sauce and served alongside buttery neeps and tatties, it’s comforting, peppery, and boldly savory.
Ingredients
Haggis:
- 3 Tablespoons Olive Oil
- 1 Medium Yellow Onion, Finely Diced
- 4 Cloves Garlic, Minced
- 8 Ounces Cremini or Button Mushrooms, Finely Diced
- 1 Teaspoon Salt
- 1 Tablespoon Sherry Vinegar
- 1 Tablespoon Coconut Aminos
- 1 Tablespoon Wholegrain Mustard
- 1 Tablespoon Nutritional Yeast
- 1 1/2 Teaspoon Dried Thyme
- 1 Teaspoon Ground Coriander
- 3/4 Teaspoon Ground Allspice
- 1/2 Teaspoon Ground Black Pepper
- 1/4 Teaspoon Ground Nutmeg
- 2 Cups Low-Sodium Vegetable Stock
- 5 Ounces Cooked Chestnuts, Roughly Chopped
- 1 (15-Ounce) Can Kidney Beans, Drained and Rinsed
- 1 (15-Ounce) Can Lentils, Drained and Rinsed
- 1/3 Cup Raw Pepitas (Pumpkin Seeds)
- 1/3 Cup Raw Sunflower Seeds
- 1 1/4 Cups Steel-Cut Oats
- Fresh Parsley or Chives, Minced
Whisky Cream Sauce:
- 1 Tablespoon Olive Oil
- 1 Medium Shallot, Diced
- 1 Clove Garlic, Minced
- 1/4 Teaspoon Salt
- 1/2 Cup Whisky, Ideally Scotch
- 1 1/2 Cups Vegan Cream or Full-Fat Coconut Milk
- 1 Tablespoon Cornstarch
- 1 Teaspoon Wholegrain Mustard
- 1/4 Teaspoon Ground Black Pepper
Neeps and Tatties:
- 1 Pound Potatoes
- 1 Pound Rutabaga
- 1/4 Cup Vegan Butter, Divided
- 1/4 - 1/2 Cup Unsweetened Non-Dairy Milk
- Salt, to Taste
Instructions
- Preheat your oven to 350 degrees and lightly grease six 8-ounce ramekins. Place them on a baking sheet and set aside.
- In a large stock pot over medium heat, add the oil. Once shimmering, add the onion and garlic, sauteing until lightly browned; 6 - 8 minutes. Add the mushrooms and salt, and continue to cook for 5 - 6 minutes, until they've softened and given up their liquid.
- Incorporate the vinegar, coconut aminos, mustard, nutritional yeast, thyme, coriander, allspice, pepper, and nutmeg. Saute for just 1 - 2 minutes, until aromatic, then quickly deglaze with the vegetable stock. Be sure to scrape the bottom of the pan with your spatula to make sure none of those delicious brown bits get left behind.
- Add the chestnuts, beans, lentils, pepitas, sunflower seeds, and oats, stirring well to incorporate. Simmer for 5 - 8 minutes, or until the mixture has thickened and the liquid has been absorbed. The oats should be fully cooked. Let stand for another 10 - 15 minutes before dividing equally between your prepared ramekins. Pack it in firmly.
- Bake for 30 minutes, until darkened and no longer glossy. Let cool for at least 15 minutes, or cool completely and store in the fridge until ready to serve. You can easily reheat them for a few minutes in the microwave, or 10 - 15 minutes in a 350-degree oven.
- Meanwhile, for the accoutrements, peel and dice the potatoes and rutabaga, keeping them separate. Add water to cover and boil individually until both are fork-tender; 10 - 15 minutes. Mash the potatoes with 2 tablespoons of vegan butter, salt, and non-dairy milk, until you reach your desired consistency. Repeat the process with the rutabaga, but without the non-dairy milk.
- For the whisky cream sauce, set a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the oil, shallots, and garlic, sauteing for 4 - 5 minutes until softened. Season with salt then carefully add the whisky. Simmer for 10 minutes to reduce and cook out the strong alcohol flavor. Separately, whisk together the vegan cream or coconut milk and cornstarch until smooth. Pour the mixture into the skillet, followed by the mustard and pepper. Continue to cook until thickened, about 3 - 5 minutes.
- When ready to eat, scoop portions of the neeps and tatties onto plates. Invert one ramekin of haggis onto each, and top with parsley or chives. Serve with whisky cream sauce on the side. Gie her a Haggis!
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Nutrition Information:
Yield:
6Serving Size:
1Amount Per Serving: Calories: 985Total Fat: 51gSaturated Fat: 21gUnsaturated Fat: 29gCholesterol: 23mgSodium: 1783mgCarbohydrates: 101gFiber: 20gSugar: 12gProtein: 27g
All nutritional information presented within this site are intended for informational purposes only. I am not a certified nutritionist and any nutritional information on BitterSweetBlog.com should only be used as a general guideline. This information is provided as a courtesy and there is no guarantee that the information will be completely accurate. Even though I try to provide accurate nutritional information to the best of my ability, these figures should still be considered estimations.
We celebrate Burns night every year and I have lovely memories from these evenings. One year I made haggis, but in sausage casings to make my life easier. And without the lungs which you cannot buy here commercially. I’m glad you find a vegan version you liked enough to make. Tonight I am making lamb pie.
What a wonderful tradition! I’m clearly late to the party. I hope you have a delicious celebration!
This is the kind of dish that makes you want to pour a little whisky cream sauce over everything and pretend you’re celebrating in Edinburgh.