Greens of Resistance

Texas is not the place to grow tender salad greens. Sure, the seeds will sprout, propelled through the soil at the barest hint of moisture and warmth, and that’s where they’ll wish they stopped. No amount of water or shade will protect the defenseless little leaves from the ambient heat, bearing down mercilessly and indiscriminately on all those below. The sun does not negotiate. It does not care how carefully the beds were prepared or how faithfully the gardener tends them. It simply arrives each morning with renewed intensity, turning cool-season dreams into compost.

Yet there are still plants that meet this punishment as a kind of blessing. Where delicate baby spinach would wilt in seconds, Malabar spinach thrives. The same heat that sends tender greens into panic coaxes this tropical vine into exuberance. Unfurling thick, succulent leaves on thick red or green stems, they would survive under the most dire conditions.

Granted, despite its name, Malabar spinach, also known as alugbati, Ceylon spinach, Indian spinach, and vine spinach, is not a true spinach at all. It belongs to an entirely different plant family and bears little resemblance to its cool-weather namesake beyond its culinary use. Native to the tropical regions of South Asia, particularly the Malabar Coast of southwestern India, the vine evolved in climates where extreme heat and humidity are par for the course. For centuries, it’s been a vital, dependable source of greens when more temperamental vegetables falter.

Thick and glossy, almost waxy to the touch, I would describe the leaves as being distinctly juicy. The flavor is mild, and while they can be eaten raw, most people prefer to cook them due to their subtly slimy texture, similar to okra. It’s exactly the inspiration, and addition, I needed to make a quick and satisfying soup, as boldly green as the whole garden, condensed into one bowl. Surrendering only to the heat of the stove, those succulent leaves blend into a velvety mixture, brightened with jalapeño, cilantro, and lemon, with a touch of cashew butter for richness. Now, this is what summer tastes like to me.

I’m not a skilled gardener and the climate is less than accommodating. Malabar spinach is one of the very few plants I can trust will feed me well, no matter what. A single plant can transform from a modest seedling into a sprawling curtain of foliage within a matter of weeks. Hope you like spinach, because there’s more where this came from.

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Hail, Caesar!

Applying heat to lettuce goes against everything I’ve ever been taught about the proper treatment of delicate leafy greens. Scared off by visions of slimy, wilted iceberg, the mere concept of tossing a few defenseless heads of romaine onto a roaring grill sounds like some nauseating joke. Heat and its transformative properties have the last laugh though; screaming-hot grates merely char the surface, imparting a bold new world of flavor in their wake while leaving the refreshingly crisp heart intact.

Bringing the Heat

In mere minutes, the outer leaves begin to blister and char around the edges, picking up a heady smokiness that no bottled dressing could ever imitate. Still, the center remains impossibly cool and crunchy, creating a study in contrasts with every bite: warm and cold, tender and crisp, bitter and sweet vegetal freshness. Drenched in a bold, punchy garlic dressing, heightened with lemon, briny capers, and enough umami to make your taste buds sing, it plays the classic tune in a new key.

Side or Centerpiece

Effortlessly elegant as a side dish, it’s equally happy stealing the spotlight for dinner. You’ve got beans in the dressing for your protein, after all, if you’re worried about nutritional balance. In that case, I’d say this recipe serves one, so plan to double up or don’t plan to share. This recipe was originally printed in my best-selling cookbook, Real Food, Really Fast! and is still a regular guest at my table to this day.

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Barley There

Unlike many other ancient grains, barley has managed to maintain a modest degree of modern visibility. Most people are far more likely to recognize it in its whole grain form than as a flour. Even so, I’d wager the first thing that came to mind when I mentioned “barley” was soup. Mushroom-barley, vegetable-barley, beef-barley; it’s been pigeonholed into brothy comfort food for so long that it’s easy to forget how versatile and diverse it truly is.

Black Nile Barley is a perfect example. Past the familiar taxonomy of hulled, hulless, quick, and pearl barley lies a world of heirloom cultivars. Wrapped in a rich purple-black sheath, this dramatic variety is poised to pull barley out of the stockpot and back onto the center of the table. No mere novelty, this rare heritage grain isn’t found in your average grocery store. 

Trying Grand Teton Ancient Grains Black Nile Barley berries changed everything I thought I knew about the grain. Instead of the pale, utilitarian barley found collecting dust in bulk bags, these berries looked almost jewel-like. Cooked, they held their shape beautifully, delivering a pleasantly chewy texture and a depth of flavor that felt far more akin to wild rice or farro than the barley of my childhood.

Black Nile Barley Tabbouleh

Origin of the Original Barley

Descended from dark-pigmented barley strains historically grown in the Nile River region, evidence of wild barley dates back over 10,000 years ago in the Fertile Crescent and the Tibetan Plateau. In Ancient Egypt, Black Nile Barley was the food of the people, while emmer was reserved for nobility. Thriving alongside the Nile River, barley was abundant and affordable, feeding both humans and animals alike. While selective breeding has often prioritized yield and uniformity, it has also stripped away the vitality, nutrition, and complex flavors that once defined it.

Mediterranean Black Nile Barley Salad

Barley a Difference

What about black barley? Black barley isn’t a single variety, but rather a broad category encompassing any barley with a naturally dark outer bran. Black Nile Barley is one such variety, distinguished by its origin and heirloom pedigree. While all Black Nile Barley is black barley, not all black barley is Black Nile Barley. Other black barley cultivars are grown throughout Asia, Africa, and Europe, each with its own history, flavor, and growing characteristics. The distinction is similar to that between apples and Honeycrisp apples or rice and Carolina Gold rice. Black Nile Barley, such as that grown by Grand Teton Ancient Grains, preserves the defining characteristics of this historic cultivar that make it so special.

Black Nile Barley Pitaya Porridge

Nutritional Dark Horse

Even the most impoverished Egyptians found great nourishment in Black Nile Barley. Distinguished by its naturally dark indigo bran, the color comes from anthocyanins, the same family of pigments that gives blueberries, black rice, and purple corn their dramatic hues, along with a impressive dose of antioxidants. Aside from the arresting color, even more notable is remarkable amount of manganese in every 1/2 cup (cooked) serving, to the tune of 97% of your RDA. It’s also a great source of thiamine, selenium, magnesium, riboflavin, niacin, iron, phosphorus, potassium, zinc, and copper. Who needs supplements when you can eat your vitamins?

In case you’re worried more about the bigger picture of macronutrients, don’t worry; Black Nile Barley has you covered. Barley has more fiber and protein than modern wheat, at a whopping 16 grams and 11 – 12 grams, respectively. Because the outer bran remains intact, you get many more nutritional benefits than pearl barley, too. The only dietary caution is that it does contain gluten, and is thus unsuitable for our celiac friends.

Black Nile Barley and Vegetable Soup

What Does Black Nile Barley Taste Like?

Pearl barley is prized for its mild, subtly sweet, and agreeable taste that plays well with all herbs and spices. Black Nile Barley has a bolder character that isn’t afraid to make itself known. Possessing an incredible depth of flavor that leads with notes of roasted nuts, bitter cacao, and freshly brewed coffee, it unfolds into a rich, earthy complexity with a lingering finish reminiscent of dark toast and molasses. Bold yet balanced, it’s a grain that refuses to stay in the background, bringing character and intensity to every dish it touches.

How to Cook Black Nile Barley

Like all unprocessed whole grains, Black Nile Barley rewards a little patience. On the plus side, it’s much harder to overcook, and grains remain firm and toothsome for a wide range of possible uses. Rinsing the grains before cooking is a good idea to remove any dust or field debris, but soaking isn’t necessary.

  • Stove Top: Combine 1 cup of Black Nile Barley with 3 cups of water or broth. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cover and cook for 45 – 60 minutes, or until the grains are tender but still pleasantly chewy. If any liquid remains, simply drain it before serving. Letting the barley rest for 5 to 10 minutes off the heat allows the grains to firm up slightly and absorb any remaining moisture.
  • Pressure Cooker: Combine 1 cup of Black Nile Barley with 2 1/2 cups of water or broth and cook on High Pressure for 20 – 25 minutes. Allow the pressure to release naturally for about 10 minutes before venting any remaining pressure. Drain if needed. The result is evenly cooked barley with a tender interior and satisfying bite.

Black Nile Barley Veggie Burger

Black Nile Barley Uses and Recipe Ideas

Anywhere you’d reach for farro, wheat berries, brown rice, or even quinoa, Black Nile Barley can step in just as easily. Lending both visual appeal and satisfying bite to everything from simple side dishes to hearty mains, it’s a remarkably versatile ingredient that deserves far more than a supporting role.

  • Grain bowls: Build a hearty meal by topping cooked Black Nile Barley with roasted vegetables, crispy tofu, beans, avocado, or a drizzle of tahini. Its chewy texture holds up well under warm and cold toppings alike.
  • Grain salads: Toss cooled barley with fresh herbs, cucumbers, tomatoes, roasted vegetables, nuts, vegan cheese, or a bright vinaigrette. Unlike softer grains, it stays pleasantly firm even after a day in the refrigerator. That makes it especially great fodder for packed school lunches, travel, picnics, and potlucks.
  • Pilafs: Sauté onions, garlic, and mushrooms before simmering the barley in vegetable broth. Finish with fresh herbs for a simple yet deeply flavorful side dish.
  • Soups and stews: While Black Nile Barley is versatile enough to move beyond soup, it still excels in its most familiar role. The grains absorb broth without losing their shape, making them ideal for vegetable, mushroom, or bean-based soups.
  • Breakfast porridge: Cook the barley until tender, then serve with your favorite non-dairy milk, cinnamon, maple syrup or agave, toasted nuts, and fresh or dried fruit for a hearty alternative to oatmeal.
  • Stuffed vegetables: Mix cooked barley with sautéed vegetables, herbs, vegan cheese, and/or meatless grounds before stuffing cabbage, peppers, tomatoes, zucchini, or winter squash. 
  • Veggie burgers: Fold cooked barley into bean- or lentil-based burger mixtures to add texture, structure, and a satisfying chew.
  • Risotto, AKA barlotto: Swap Arborio rice for barley to create a rustic variation on risotto with any seasonal vegetables on hand.
  • Bread: Typically used alongside at least some wheat flour, barley flour by itself makes incredibly dense loaves. Best served toasted or alongside brothy dishes where it can soak up liquid, this bread leans into heft rather than levity, often improved by a touch of moisture or fat to soften its naturally tight crumb.
  • Pilaf: Simply cooked with broth, olive oil, butter, or fresh herbs, Black Nile Barley makes an excellent side dish to pair with your favorite plant-based protein. If you want to spice things up, consider adding curry powder, toasted cashews, and fresh cilantro to make a biryani-inspired variation.

The Stuff(ing) of Legends

Barley has culinary potential that far exceeds its traditional trappings of soup and stew, but there’s still merit in those classic parings. Deeply comforting, tried-and-true, mushroom-barley soup is the unshakable foundation that inspired these stuffed peppers. Instead of watering things down with a half gallon of broth, the same earthy flavors are concentrated into a hearty filling of sautéed onions, mushrooms, herbs, and chewy Black Nile Barley. Tucked inside sweet bell peppers and baked until tender, they capture everything that makes the classic pairing so enduring while proving that barley deserves a place well beyond the stock pot.

What’s Old is New Again

Black Nile Barley is a bridge to the past. Cultivated for millennia yet largely absent from modern menus, the fresh crop from Grand Teton Ancient Grains offers a rare opportunity to reconnect with one of humanity’s oldest cultivated grains. Its remarkable history is reason enough to seek it out, but its rich, nutty flavor, satisfying chew, and remarkable versatility are what earn it a permanent place in my pantry.

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Cold as Ice

Serving food that’s still frozen is a capital offense. Serving food with whole ice cubes in it, however, is an asset rather than an error. After literally drinking through gallons of chilled soups over the years, pouring them into insulated mugs to sip on like savory smoothies, it’s staggering that the thought didn’t occur to me sooner. Gracefully maintaining their composure while other bowls start sweating, there’s nothing more refreshing when sweltering heat bears down midday. Gazpacho is an obvious, well-qualified candidate, but I was inspired to look further afield to another cool contender.

Drink Your Vegetables

Okroshka is sometimes described as a liquid salad, and with the tart tang of buttermilk or kefir that’s evocative of a creamy vinaigrette, it’s an apt comparison. Grassy and milky, light and soothing, it tastes like the sensation of stepping out of the sun and into shade. Finely chopped cucumbers, radishes, and potatoes are essential, swimming beneath a marsh of fresh dill and green onions. Traditionalist may include ham, while vegetarian versions opt for hard boiled eggs, which brings me to the other white meat for my version: tofu.

Melt Down

Worried about ice cubes watering down your soup? Don’t be silly. This particular blend is meant to be brothy, not the sort of thick stew that would suffer from the intrusion. If you’re the type that likes to crunch on ice, you get the bonus of added texture, and if you prefer to spare your teeth, just spoon around the cubes as you go. It doesn’t have to be bland old frozen water, either. Make custom soup cubes using:

  • Vegetable or mushroom stock
  • Tomato juice
  • Unsweetened non-dairy milk
  • Diluted pickle brine

Cubed Crusade

I’m well aware that the most American thing to do is add copious amounts of ice to everything. What can I say; I can’t outrun my cultural conditioning, even when crafting a Russian staple. Look, if Jacques Pépin says it’s okay to put ice in red wine, then surely, we can start putting ice in soup. Okroshka, cool, calm, and composed, can withstand the perceived faux-pas. If we’re adding tofu in anyway, I think we’ve already passed the point of offending the purists.

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Rye Not?

Rye is a grain of both the working class and high society. Best known for making strong brown bread and even stronger distilled spirits, rye can be as wholesome or debauched as the hands that shape it. Touching all walks of life through its long and storied history, what’s even wilder than the grain itself, is the fact that it was almost overlooked entirely by human civilization. Even though rye’s cultural renaissance may have come and gone, it remains an indispensable grain that’s primed for it’s next great revival.

Grand Teton Ancient Grains is helping to lead that charge, making bulk whole rye berries accessible in markets where local stores fail to deliver. Even rye flour has become something of a rarity, relegated to specialty stores, if you needed any additional incentive to make the plunge and buy a home grain mill.

How Rye Came to Grow Like a Weed

Originating sometime around 1000 BCE nearby modern-day Turkey and Iran, rye was first viewed as a pesky weed. Early farmers focused on cultivating barley and wheat (which are both closely related, I might add) were initially confounded as to how this interloper kept managing to tenaciously thrive amongst the other crops. This hardiness is what ultimately earned it a proper place in the fields, proving its tolerance to cold temperatures, drought, and poor soil.

Romans seized upon the resilient stalks during their conquests, bringing them back home and ultimately introducing rye to greater Ancient Europe. The grain proliferated, quickly becoming an essential staple that shaped the very foundation of their traditional foodways. Dark, dense rye bread is practically synonymous with German, Russian, Polish, and Swedish cuisines, and that’s only the beginning.

Bold, Old-World Flavor

Distinctive, assertive, and complex, rye will never slip silently onto your plate. To some, particularly super tasters, its strong, sometime bitter flavor is off-putting, but for those who love it, that’s a feature, not a flaw. At its core, rye carries a malty, toasted, earthy backbone with an almost mineral edge. That base is layered with subtle spice reminiscent of black pepper, clove, or allspice. There’s an underlying tanginess, not unlike sourdough, which amplifies rye’s nuances, pulling forward hidden notes of nuttiness and sweetness.

The form in which rye is used greatly affects the final flavor. There’s also a large amount of variation between rye grown in the spring vs winter. Let’s not forget that there are heirloom varieties, such as what you’ll find at Grand Teton Ancient Grains, and modern hybrids.

Reuben Sandwich from Brunch Bird

Modern Rye

Rye’s ascension was not meteoric nor linear. After sustaining generations through hardship and scarcity, it began to be associated with poverty. Soon, it was relegated to the back burner, replaced by light, fluffy white flours and quick-cooking whole grains. The greatest tragedy of rye is that to this day, less than 25% of the rye grown in the U.S. is harvested for human consumption, with the remainder used as livestock feed, hay, or as a cover crop. Globally, the numbers are more encouraging, though appreciation for rye still trails far behind trendier superfoods like the social media darling, quinoa, for example. Culinarily speaking, there are so more historical and contemporary uses for rye:

  • Bread: A dark, hearty loaf of bread is the first thing most people think of when you say the word “rye.” There are myriad variations on the theme, with or without caraway seeds, sweetened with molasses or raisins, and more. Aside from loaves, rye bagels, rolls, biscuits, and muffins all deserve a place at the table. Rye flour is also a major component in pumpernickel bread.
  • Crackers, Cookies, Pancakes, and Cakes: In crackers, rye bakes up crisp and snappy, with a deep, savory flavor. For desserts like cookies and cakes, rye tempers sweetness, adding a faint bitterness and nutty depth that keeps things from becoming cloying, especially in spice-forward or chocolate-rich recipes. Danish brødtorte, a layer cake made from rye bread crumbs, hazelnuts, cocoa, and molasses is an excellent example.

Rye Flake Muesli
  • Cereal, Granola, and Porridge: Using whole berries, or rolled rye flakes, this grain makes for a deeply satisfying breakfast. Rye porridge cooks up creamy yet slightly chewy, with a hearty texture that satisfies for hours. Its natural savory edge pairs well with both sweet toppings like maple syrup, fruit, and nuts, or more savory additions like unsweetened vegan yogurt and seeds. In granola, rye flakes toast beautifully, adding crunch and a subtle malty flavor that sets it apart from the usual oat-based blends.
  • Soup: Żurek is a traditional Polish sour rye soup made with fermented rye flour, sausages, root vegetables, and often served with eggs and, yes, more bread. The fermented rye starter known as Zakwas Żytni can be purchased in Polish markets, but is incredibly easy to make at home, if you have the patience to let it sit for 4 – 7 days.
  • Salad: Like any other whole grain, rye berries can be cooked and tossed into salads chilled, warm, or hot. They hold their shape, absorb dressings like a champ, and travel well, making them an excellent choice for picnics and potlucks.

Rye Whiskey and Beer
  • Whiskey: Rye finds one of its boldest expressions in whiskey, where its naturally peppery profile takes center stage. Compared to corn-heavy bourbons, rye whiskey is typically drier and more assertive, with notes of spice, herbs, and sometimes citrus or floral undertones. It’s the backbone of classic cocktails like the Manhattan and Old Fashioned, where its sharpness cuts through sweetness and brings balance. For those who enjoy a spirit with a bit of edge, rye whiskey is hard to beat.
  • Beer: Brewers have long employed rye as a flavorful twist to traditional grain bills. Rye beers often carry a slightly spicy, tangy character with a smooth, sometimes silky mouthfeel. It can be used to add complexity to everything from pale ales to stouts, though rye IPAs are especially popular for the way the grain’s spice plays against bright, citrusy hops.

Garlic-Rye Chips

Rye and Mighty Nutrition

As nutritionally dense as the loaves it makes, rye is a heavy hitter across the board. Even higher in fiber than conventional whole wheat, rye also provides more vitamin B2, B6, and E per serving, in addition to vitamins A and K, which you won’t find in the former. Rye is also a good source of manganese, potassium, copper and phosphorus. Instead of grabbing an expensive energy bar, a sturdy slice of rye bread would be a smarter midday pick-me-up.

Seeded Rye Bread

Baker in the Rye

Even for the experienced baker, working with rye flour can be daunting. Rye does contain gluten, making it unsuitable for those with celiac disease, but much less than wheat. That’s why rye bread tends to be much denser and have less rise, or is cut with a higher-gluten bread flour to improve the texture.

Buying rye flour may be even more difficult than grinding your own. Sold as light, medium, and dark rye flour, the difference is all in the milling. Light rye has most or all of the bran removed and is ground to a very fine powder, whereas on the opposite side of the spectrum, dark rye uses nearly all of the bran and is coarsely ground.

Rye flour absorbs more liquid than wheat flour, resulting in a stickier, less elastic dough. Don’t try to compensate by adding more flour, which will only result in a dry, leaden loaf. Your best bet is to substitute only 20% to 25% of the flour in cookies or cakes with rye, or 50% of the flour in bread recipes.

Cooking Whole Rye Berries

To soak or not to soak: that’s a question with no definitive answer. You don’t need to soak rye berries before cooking them, but as with all other hard grain berries and large beans, it can help cut down on the cooking time and ensure even tenderness all the way through. Should you choose to do so, soak your rye berries overnight and drain thoroughly, adding fresh water for the cooking process.

  • Stove Top: Add 1 part rye berries to 4 parts water in a large pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a steady simmer and cover. Cook for about 45 – 60 minutes if soaked, or 60 – 90 minutes if unsoaked, stirring occasionally and adding more water if needed. The berries are done when tender but still pleasantly chewy. Drain any excess liquid.
  • Pressure Cooker: Combine 1 part rye berries with 3 parts water. Cook on high pressure for 20 – 25 minutes if soaked, or 30 – 35 minutes if unsoaked. Allow the pressure to release naturally for 10 minutes before opening. Drain and enjoy.

Joy Rye-d

If rye is most closely associated with bread, then rye bread is most closely associated with the Reuben sandwich. The stuff of deli legends (despite not being kosher by combining meat and cheese), the Reuben is a simple affair composed of corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and thousand island dressing, all contained between two slices of rye bread. Taking a step back, I wondered what would happen if we removed the bread, but kept the rye? That’s how rye-sotto, featuring whole rye berries instead of the conventional rice found in risotto, was born.

Gone A-Rye

Though whole rye berries lack the free starch found in rice that typically makes risotto thick and creamy, they have the advantage of staying satisfyingly chewy no matter how long you cook them. The solution is to create a slurry from rye flour to thicken the broth like a rich gravy, cradling the tender cooked grains.

Completing the Reuben revolution was easy from there, using chopped vegan corned beef slices, either store-bought or homemade, like you might employ bacon or pancetta in a more traditional risotto, to carry the greatest gustatory weight. Dairy-free Parmesan takes the place of Swiss for a greater umami impact, and the whole thing is finished with a drizzle of thousand island crema, less oily than dressing but with all the same bite. Effortlessly elegant without being fussy, it takes the beloved comfort food to a whole new level.

All Ryes On Me

Rye doesn’t need reinvention so much as reconsideration. It’s been here all along, resilient in the field, uncompromising on the palate, and endlessly adaptable in the kitchen. Whether you meet it in a dense loaf, a warming bowl, or a sweet treat, rye rewards curiosity with character. If there’s a revival ahead, I can only hope it’ll be driven by a renewed appreciation for a truly great whole grain.

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Global Grab-and-Go

Life has never moved at a faster pace, seeming to accelerate with every passing year. Who has the time for work-life balance when there aren’t even enough hours in the day to get three square meals on the table? The world isn’t about to slow down, but culinary traditions across the globe have found a way to adapt. Every locale has their own legacy of quick-fix street foods, providing energy, comfort, novelty, and nutrition, right in the palm of your hand.

Suya, a fiery Nigerian snack, delivers smoky, spiced “meat” on skewers with bold, addictive flavor.

Pupusas from El Salvador offer thick corn cakes, hiding gooey cheese and creamy refried beans within.

In Japan, onigiri are simple rice balls, plain or filled with anything your heart desires, always with a touch of umami.

Pita pockets become the compact vessels for arayes, a Levantine favorite, stuffed with a spiced, meaty filling and grilled until crisp and juicy.

Jewish tradition hailing primarily from NYC brings us the beloved potato pastries, knishes, which can also conceal myriad flavor variations within.

Pinsa Romana, though it looks and sounds like pizza, is a unique flatbread sensation all its own; airy, crisp, and chewy, made from ancient grains and a clever no-knead base.

No forks, knives, or spoons about it. These handheld savory sensations meet you where you are, on the road, packing for a picnic, or running to your next meeting.

Get all these recipes inside the latest issue of Vegan Journal, in print or online.