Cold as Ice

Serving food that’s still frozen is a capital offense. Serving food with whole ice cubes in it, however, is an asset rather than an error. After literally drinking through gallons of chilled soups over the years, pouring them into insulated mugs to sip on like savory smoothies, it’s staggering that the thought didn’t occur to me sooner. Gracefully maintaining their composure while other bowls start sweating, there’s nothing more refreshing when sweltering heat bears down midday. Gazpacho is an obvious, well-qualified candidate, but I was inspired to look further afield to another cool contender.

Drink Your Vegetables

Okroshka is sometimes described as a liquid salad, and with the tart tang of buttermilk or kefir that’s evocative of a creamy vinaigrette, it’s an apt comparison. Grassy and milky, light and soothing, it tastes like the sensation of stepping out of the sun and into shade. Finely chopped cucumbers, radishes, and potatoes are essential, swimming beneath a marsh of fresh dill and green onions. Traditionalist may include ham, while vegetarian versions opt for hard boiled eggs, which brings me to the other white meat for my version: tofu.

Melt Down

Worried about ice cubes watering down your soup? Don’t be silly. This particular blend is meant to be brothy, not the sort of thick stew that would suffer from the intrusion. If you’re the type that likes to crunch on ice, you get the bonus of added texture, and if you prefer to spare your teeth, just spoon around the cubes as you go. It doesn’t have to be bland old frozen water, either. Make custom soup cubes using:

  • Vegetable or mushroom stock
  • Tomato juice
  • Unsweetened non-dairy milk
  • Diluted pickle brine

Cubed Crusade

I’m well aware that the most American thing to do is add copious amounts of ice to everything. What can I say; I can’t outrun my cultural conditioning, even when crafting a Russian staple. Look, if Jacques Pépin says it’s okay to put ice in red wine, then surely, we can start putting ice in soup. Okroshka, cool, calm, and composed, can withstand the perceived faux-pas. If we’re adding tofu in anyway, I think we’ve already passed the point of offending the purists.

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Rye Not?

Rye is a grain of both the working class and high society. Best known for making strong brown bread and even stronger distilled spirits, rye can be as wholesome or debauched as the hands that shape it. Touching all walks of life through its long and storied history, what’s even wilder than the grain itself, is the fact that it was almost overlooked entirely by human civilization. Even though rye’s cultural renaissance may have come and gone, it remains an indispensable grain that’s primed for it’s next great revival.

Grand Teton Ancient Grains is helping to lead that charge, making bulk whole rye berries accessible in markets where local stores fail to deliver. Even rye flour has become something of a rarity, relegated to specialty stores, if you needed any additional incentive to make the plunge and buy a home grain mill.

How Rye Came to Grow Like a Weed

Originating sometime around 1000 BCE nearby modern-day Turkey and Iran, rye was first viewed as a pesky weed. Early farmers focused on cultivating barley and wheat (which are both closely related, I might add) were initially confounded as to how this interloper kept managing to tenaciously thrive amongst the other crops. This hardiness is what ultimately earned it a proper place in the fields, proving its tolerance to cold temperatures, drought, and poor soil.

Romans seized upon the resilient stalks during their conquests, bringing them back home and ultimately introducing rye to greater Ancient Europe. The grain proliferated, quickly becoming an essential staple that shaped the very foundation of their traditional foodways. Dark, dense rye bread is practically synonymous with German, Russian, Polish, and Swedish cuisines, and that’s only the beginning.

Bold, Old-World Flavor

Distinctive, assertive, and complex, rye will never slip silently onto your plate. To some, particularly super tasters, its strong, sometime bitter flavor is off-putting, but for those who love it, that’s a feature, not a flaw. At its core, rye carries a malty, toasted, earthy backbone with an almost mineral edge. That base is layered with subtle spice reminiscent of black pepper, clove, or allspice. There’s an underlying tanginess, not unlike sourdough, which amplifies rye’s nuances, pulling forward hidden notes of nuttiness and sweetness.

The form in which rye is used greatly affects the final flavor. There’s also a large amount of variation between rye grown in the spring vs winter. Let’s not forget that there are heirloom varieties, such as what you’ll find at Grand Teton Ancient Grains, and modern hybrids.

Reuben Sandwich from Brunch Bird

Modern Rye

Rye’s ascension was not meteoric nor linear. After sustaining generations through hardship and scarcity, it began to be associated with poverty. Soon, it was relegated to the back burner, replaced by light, fluffy white flours and quick-cooking whole grains. The greatest tragedy of rye is that to this day, less than 25% of the rye grown in the U.S. is harvested for human consumption, with the remainder used as livestock feed, hay, or as a cover crop. Globally, the numbers are more encouraging, though appreciation for rye still trails far behind trendier superfoods like the social media darling, quinoa, for example. Culinarily speaking, there are so more historical and contemporary uses for rye:

  • Bread: A dark, hearty loaf of bread is the first thing most people think of when you say the word “rye.” There are myriad variations on the theme, with or without caraway seeds, sweetened with molasses or raisins, and more. Aside from loaves, rye bagels, rolls, biscuits, and muffins all deserve a place at the table. Rye flour is also a major component in pumpernickel bread.
  • Crackers, Cookies, Pancakes, and Cakes: In crackers, rye bakes up crisp and snappy, with a deep, savory flavor. For desserts like cookies and cakes, rye tempers sweetness, adding a faint bitterness and nutty depth that keeps things from becoming cloying, especially in spice-forward or chocolate-rich recipes. Danish brødtorte, a layer cake made from rye bread crumbs, hazelnuts, cocoa, and molasses is an excellent example.

Rye Flake Muesli
  • Cereal, Granola, and Porridge: Using whole berries, or rolled rye flakes, this grain makes for a deeply satisfying breakfast. Rye porridge cooks up creamy yet slightly chewy, with a hearty texture that satisfies for hours. Its natural savory edge pairs well with both sweet toppings like maple syrup, fruit, and nuts, or more savory additions like unsweetened vegan yogurt and seeds. In granola, rye flakes toast beautifully, adding crunch and a subtle malty flavor that sets it apart from the usual oat-based blends.
  • Soup: Żurek is a traditional Polish sour rye soup made with fermented rye flour, sausages, root vegetables, and often served with eggs and, yes, more bread. The fermented rye starter known as Zakwas Żytni can be purchased in Polish markets, but is incredibly easy to make at home, if you have the patience to let it sit for 4 – 7 days.
  • Salad: Like any other whole grain, rye berries can be cooked and tossed into salads chilled, warm, or hot. They hold their shape, absorb dressings like a champ, and travel well, making them an excellent choice for picnics and potlucks.

Rye Whiskey and Beer
  • Whiskey: Rye finds one of its boldest expressions in whiskey, where its naturally peppery profile takes center stage. Compared to corn-heavy bourbons, rye whiskey is typically drier and more assertive, with notes of spice, herbs, and sometimes citrus or floral undertones. It’s the backbone of classic cocktails like the Manhattan and Old Fashioned, where its sharpness cuts through sweetness and brings balance. For those who enjoy a spirit with a bit of edge, rye whiskey is hard to beat.
  • Beer: Brewers have long employed rye as a flavorful twist to traditional grain bills. Rye beers often carry a slightly spicy, tangy character with a smooth, sometimes silky mouthfeel. It can be used to add complexity to everything from pale ales to stouts, though rye IPAs are especially popular for the way the grain’s spice plays against bright, citrusy hops.

Garlic-Rye Chips

Rye and Mighty Nutrition

As nutritionally dense as the loaves it makes, rye is a heavy hitter across the board. Even higher in fiber than conventional whole wheat, rye also provides more vitamin B2, B6, and E per serving, in addition to vitamins A and K, which you won’t find in the former. Rye is also a good source of manganese, potassium, copper and phosphorus. Instead of grabbing an expensive energy bar, a sturdy slice of rye bread would be a smarter midday pick-me-up.

Seeded Rye Bread

Baker in the Rye

Even for the experienced baker, working with rye flour can be daunting. Rye does contain gluten, making it unsuitable for those with celiac disease, but much less than wheat. That’s why rye bread tends to be much denser and have less rise, or is cut with a higher-gluten bread flour to improve the texture.

Buying rye flour may be even more difficult than grinding your own. Sold as light, medium, and dark rye flour, the difference is all in the milling. Light rye has most or all of the bran removed and is ground to a very fine powder, whereas on the opposite side of the spectrum, dark rye uses nearly all of the bran and is coarsely ground.

Rye flour absorbs more liquid than wheat flour, resulting in a stickier, less elastic dough. Don’t try to compensate by adding more flour, which will only result in a dry, leaden loaf. Your best bet is to substitute only 20% to 25% of the flour in cookies or cakes with rye, or 50% of the flour in bread recipes.

Cooking Whole Rye Berries

To soak or not to soak: that’s a question with no definitive answer. You don’t need to soak rye berries before cooking them, but as with all other hard grain berries and large beans, it can help cut down on the cooking time and ensure even tenderness all the way through. Should you choose to do so, soak your rye berries overnight and drain thoroughly, adding fresh water for the cooking process.

  • Stove Top: Add 1 part rye berries to 4 parts water in a large pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a steady simmer and cover. Cook for about 45 – 60 minutes if soaked, or 60 – 90 minutes if unsoaked, stirring occasionally and adding more water if needed. The berries are done when tender but still pleasantly chewy. Drain any excess liquid.
  • Pressure Cooker: Combine 1 part rye berries with 3 parts water. Cook on high pressure for 20 – 25 minutes if soaked, or 30 – 35 minutes if unsoaked. Allow the pressure to release naturally for 10 minutes before opening. Drain and enjoy.

Joy Rye-d

If rye is most closely associated with bread, then rye bread is most closely associated with the Reuben sandwich. The stuff of deli legends (despite not being kosher by combining meat and cheese), the Reuben is a simple affair composed of corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and thousand island dressing, all contained between two slices of rye bread. Taking a step back, I wondered what would happen if we removed the bread, but kept the rye? That’s how rye-sotto, featuring whole rye berries instead of the conventional rice found in risotto, was born.

Gone A-Rye

Though whole rye berries lack the free starch found in rice that typically makes risotto thick and creamy, they have the advantage of staying satisfyingly chewy no matter how long you cook them. The solution is to create a slurry from rye flour to thicken the broth like a rich gravy, cradling the tender cooked grains.

Completing the Reuben revolution was easy from there, using chopped vegan corned beef slices, either store-bought or homemade, like you might employ bacon or pancetta in a more traditional risotto, to carry the greatest gustatory weight. Dairy-free Parmesan takes the place of Swiss for a greater umami impact, and the whole thing is finished with a drizzle of thousand island crema, less oily than dressing but with all the same bite. Effortlessly elegant without being fussy, it takes the beloved comfort food to a whole new level.

All Ryes On Me

Rye doesn’t need reinvention so much as reconsideration. It’s been here all along, resilient in the field, uncompromising on the palate, and endlessly adaptable in the kitchen. Whether you meet it in a dense loaf, a warming bowl, or a sweet treat, rye rewards curiosity with character. If there’s a revival ahead, I can only hope it’ll be driven by a renewed appreciation for a truly great whole grain.

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Global Grab-and-Go

Life has never moved at a faster pace, seeming to accelerate with every passing year. Who has the time for work-life balance when there aren’t even enough hours in the day to get three square meals on the table? The world isn’t about to slow down, but culinary traditions across the globe have found a way to adapt. Every locale has their own legacy of quick-fix street foods, providing energy, comfort, novelty, and nutrition, right in the palm of your hand.

Suya, a fiery Nigerian snack, delivers smoky, spiced “meat” on skewers with bold, addictive flavor.

Pupusas from El Salvador offer thick corn cakes, hiding gooey cheese and creamy refried beans within.

In Japan, onigiri are simple rice balls, plain or filled with anything your heart desires, always with a touch of umami.

Pita pockets become the compact vessels for arayes, a Levantine favorite, stuffed with a spiced, meaty filling and grilled until crisp and juicy.

Jewish tradition hailing primarily from NYC brings us the beloved potato pastries, knishes, which can also conceal myriad flavor variations within.

Pinsa Romana, though it looks and sounds like pizza, is a unique flatbread sensation all its own; airy, crisp, and chewy, made from ancient grains and a clever no-knead base.

No forks, knives, or spoons about it. These handheld savory sensations meet you where you are, on the road, packing for a picnic, or running to your next meeting.

Get all these recipes inside the latest issue of Vegan Journal, in print or online.

Wordless Wednesday: Meat of the Matter

Jumbo Calzones
Hot Sausage Pasta Salad
Cauliflower Fettuccine Alfredo
Baba Ghanoush Pasta
Summer Squash Ceviche with Warm Tortillas
Stovetop Spinach Artichoke Dip
Sloppy Joe Sweet Potatoes
Tater Tot Shepherd’s Pie
Sesame Snow Pea Stir Fry
Tofuballs
Meaty Lentil Chorizo Tacos

Recipe testing for The 29-Minute Vegan: Real Food, Real Vibes, Anytime by Isa Chandra Moskowitz

(As it goes with recipe testing, not all of these made the final cut. You’ll have to check out the cookbook for yourself to see the winners!)

Wordless Wednesday: Soup, Stew, or Salad?

Grilled Nectarine Salad with Raspberry Vin and Spiced Pecans
Shiitake Be’ef & Bulgur Stew
Hoppin’ John
Green Goddess Quinoa Bowl
Greek Salad with Roasted Red Peppers and Tofu Feta
Shrooms and Grits
Creamy Primavera Vegetable Soup
Coconut Corn Soup with Mock Duck
Caesar Salad With Tofu Chick’n Croutons
Three-Bean Berbere Chili
Warm Potato Supper Salad
Warm Mushroom Salad with Frisée and Honee Mustard

Recipe testing for The 29-Minute Vegan: Real Food, Real Vibes, Anytime by Isa Chandra Moskowitz

(As it goes with recipe testing, not all of these made the final cut. You’ll have to check out the cookbook for yourself to see the winners!)

Refried or Die

Living in Texas has shown me the wonders of refried beans. Up until this point in my life, my primary reference was the stodgy, miscellaneous bean matter that emerges from a can in one solid brick. Minimally seasoned, mostly homogeneous, I never saw the appeal. Was it the adult equivalent of baby food, delivering nutrition with no teeth required? Mercifully, the real deal is anything but a culinary compromise, cementing its place in American foodways for many centuries to come.

Once Bitten, Twice Fried?

Pinto beans are the most common legume to be refried, thanks to their abundance, affordability, and creamy texture that breaks down easily with the lightest touch. Frijoles refritos were born in Mexico and contrary to common belief, mean “well-fried,” not “re-fried” beans. The idea is to stew them until they give up on individuality, fusing together as one. Like most marvelously simple dishes, the key ingredient is time.

What if there was a way to speed up the process without sacrificing flavor, texture, or nutrition, though? Sure, you could employ the handy old pressure cooker, or start with canned beans to begin with, but I believe I’ve found an even better shortcut. It’s time for red lentils to shine.

Paint The Town Red

I’ve never met a red lentil that wanted to stay whole. Instantly blending themselves into a rustic mash without even a passing glance at the immersion blender, they’re ideal for creating quick, creamy refritos on the fly. Moreover, their mild, earthy sweetness readily melds with savory aromatics, smoked paprika, and a touch of lime. Thickening into a supple, savory spread that clings beautifully to tortillas, toast, or whatever vehicle happens to be nearby, it’s remarkable what a few spare pantry staples can do.

Love Your Legumes

If you, like me, are late in discovering the joys of a proper refried bean, figuring out what to do with them is the biggest barrier to legume enlightenment. You can very happily eat them straight out of the pot, but you’d be doing yourself a disservice if you didn’t look for inspiration further afield. I can only scratch the surface on the multitude of possibilities:

  • Side dish: When the budget is tight, you really can’t beat a meal of brown rice and refried beans. You could serve them alongside any sort of Mexican or Tex-Mex specialties too, from enchiladas to rellenos.
  • Dip: All you need to do is add tortilla chips and boom, you’ve got bean dip! Take a step further by mixing in vegan sour cream, salsa or pico de gallo, and top with vegan cheese and/or cilantro for more festive fare. Don’t forget that 7-layer dip is always a possibility, too.
  • Nachos: Instead of dipping your chips, dollop the refried lentils right on top. This has the added benefit of being able to justify drowning your troubles in gooey queso while still getting a healthy serving of fiber and protein.
  • Tacos, burritos, and quesdillas: Leverage your refritos as the featured protein or let them support another main player in any of your favorite tortilla-based meals. A good bean and cheese burrito is the gold standard for a drunken late night snack, if you ask me.

These are the absolute basics, the classic examples that will never steer you wrong. That said, I’ve seen refried beans used in more imaginative creations like pizza, lasagna, dumplings… We’d be here all day if we kept talking about further adaptations.

Cut Out The Cans

I’m still loathe to buy a can of refried beans. As emergency rations, they excel. For daily subsistence, even on a budget or tight schedule, we can do better. Refried red lentils are my new ride-or-die staple food.

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