If you haven’t thought much, or at all, about Sassafras before, you’re not alone. Banished to the darkest depths of the forest after enjoying brief success as a soda shoppe superstar, there’s not a trace of it left on the market today. Where did it all go? Why did the original root of root beer disappear while only chemical imitators remain? The controversial answer is tangled up in politics and bunk science.

Sass Back

Sassafras is a tree grown in the American Southeast, cherished for years by the indigenous peoples for culinary, medicinal and aromatic applications. Sassafras leaves could be enjoyed as a fresh spice, like bay leaves, in soups and stews, or dried and steeped like tea. Spicy and earthy, with hints of vanilla and licorice, it’s what you might expect from root beer soda if it wasn’t so brash and artificial. The roots have the added benefit of thickening liquids, giving them a place of honor in many gumbo recipes instead of or in addition to file powder.

The tea from sassafras leaves is believed to have many curative properties, historically used to treat colds, measles, scarlet fever, indigestion, and heal wounds. Distilled safrole, the primary chemical compound in sassafras, is still used to make perfumes and natural insecticide products overseas. In the US, where this unique ingredient originated, the story is completely different.

The Dose That Makes The Poison

A study was done in the 1970s where a group of rats was fed extreme, excessive amounts of concentrated safrole. Unsurprisingly, they developed cancer and liver damage. The USDA reacted swiftly and blindly, banning the substance indefinitely. Abundant misinformation persists; even otherwise legitimate-looking websites claim that “Consuming 5 mL of sassafras can kill an adult.”

This is, frankly, a lie. Dr. James Duke, author Handbook of Edible Weeds, has written that on the contrary, root beer with safrole was 1/13 as cancer-causing as the alcohol in beer. While yes, safrole can be used in the production of ecstasy (MDMA), let’s not forget that over-the-counter cold medications can be used to make meth, too.

Distilling The Solution

By my estimation, I’ve consumed much more questionable things. That’s why I was overjoyed when I got real sassafras root from Tripp Distillery, creators of unparalleled sassafras liqueur. Not everyone has access like this, but there are some online resources as well. With my prize in hand, I knew what I wanted to make right away: A reverse root beer float. That is, scoops of homemade sassafras ice cream bobbing in a frosty mug of sparkling water. Cool, crisp, and invigorating, with much less cloying sweetness than the original.

What happened when I got home was a bit different than planned. My ice cream maker decided to give up the ghost, paddle immersed in cool custard, never to spin again. With the base already cooked and a heatwave approaching, I grabbed the nearest popsicle mold and started pouring.

Creamsicle Of Dreams

Call it fate, or a happy accident, but I think the results turned out even better this way. Sweet, creamy, and delicately spiced, there’s nothing else quite like it. Perched on wooden sticks, these frozen treats are even better for summer fun on the go, or swirling into a pop-tail, AKA popsicle cocktail. Just add hard seltzer or a shot of your favorite spirits to that sparkling water to get the party started.

If you like root beer, you’ll love sassafras. Ignore the fearmongering and give it a chance. It’s long overdue for a revival, but don’t just save the best for last—eat dessert first!

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Yield: Makes 4 - 8 Popsicles

Sassafras Creamsicles

Print

If you like root beer, you'll love sassafras creamsicles. Perched on wooden sticks, these frozen treats are even better for summer fun on the go, or swirling into a pop-tail, AKA popsicle cocktail. Just add hard seltzer or a shot of your favorite spirits to that sparkling water to get the party started.

Prep Time 10 minutes

Cook Time 20 minutes

Additional Time 7 hours

Total Time 7 hours 20 minutes

Ingredients

• 2 1/2 Cups Plain, Unsweetened Non-Dairy Milk, Divided
• 1.5 Ounces Sassafras Root, Roughly Chopped
• 1 Whole Star Anise (Optional)
• 3/4 Cup Light Brown Sugar, Firmly Packed
• 2 Tablespoons Arrowroot
• 1/4 Teaspoon Salt
• 2 Tablespoons Sassafras Liqueur*
• 1 1/2 Teaspoons Vanilla Extract

Instructions

1. In a small saucepan, combine 1 cup of non-dairy milk, the sassafras, and star anise (if using) over medium heat. Bring just to the brink of a boil, turn off the heat, and cover. Let steep for about 15 minutes; the milk will become light pink in color. Strain and return the liquid to the stove.
   
2. In a separate container, whisk together the remaining non-dairy milk, sugar, arrowroot, and salt. Make sure there are no clumps remaining before pouring the mixture into the saucepan. Stir well to combine and set over medium heat. Bring the liquid back to a boil, whisking frequently.
   
3. Once thickened, turn off the heat. Let cool, transfer to another dish, and place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface to prevent a skin from forming on top. Place in the fridge and let chill for at least 3 hours.
   
4. Pour the custard base into popsicle molds and insert sticks. Place on a level surface in your freezer and freeze until solid; at least 4 - 5 hours. Enjoy as is or in a cocktail!
   

Notes

*If you can't find sassafras liqueur, replace it and the sparkling water with 1/2 cup of hard root beer.

Recommended Products

Please note that some of the links above are affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you decide to make a purchase after clicking through the link. I have experience with all of these companies and I recommend them because they are helpful and useful, not because of the small commissions I make if you decide to buy something through my links.

• 
  REDMOND Real Sea Salt - Natural Unrefined Organic Gluten Free Fine, 26 ounce pouch (1 Pack)
• 
  Simply Organic, Pure Madagascar Vanilla, 4 fl oz (118 ml)
• 
  Bob's Red Mill, Arrowroot Starch/Flour, Gluten Free, 16 oz (454 g)

Nutrition Information:

Yield:

8

Serving Size:

1
Amount Per Serving: Calories: 99Total Fat: 1gSaturated Fat: 0gTrans Fat: 0gUnsaturated Fat: 0gCholesterol: 2mgSodium: 86mgCarbohydrates: 21gFiber: 0gSugar: 20gProtein: 1g

All nutritional information presented within this site are intended for informational purposes only. I am not a certified nutritionist and any nutritional information on BitterSweetBlog.com should only be used as a general guideline. This information is provided as a courtesy and there is no guarantee that the information will be completely accurate. Even though I try to provide accurate nutritional information to the best of my ability, these figures should still be considered estimations.