Stocked up on dry beans recently? Judging by the empty shelves anointed with “sold out” and “temporary shortage” placards replacing usual price tags, you’re certainly not alone. Always one step behind the trend, pickings were already slim by the time I got motivated to hit the grocery store. A few bedraggled sacks of dusty pinto beans looked the most promising, which isn’t saying much.
Nothing against the little legume, but it doesn’t inspire the same way that, say, chickpeas do. They’re not quick-cooking like lentils. They’re not sexy like fresh fava beans. They’re not my first choice, but by no fault of the bean itself. It’s a personal failing that I couldn’t see beyond their ruddy pink skins to embrace the creamy elegance within. Every bean is worthy of greatness, especially in such lean times, so it was still a prize to snatch up at that late hour.
Rather than taking the typical Texan approach, I cast an eye out to farther afield to Georgia for inspiration. No, not The Peach State, but the eastern republic nestled at the intersection of Europe and Asia. There, lobio (ლობიო), is an indispensable staple, marking the place at every dinner table throughout the year. A thick, rich stew made with pureed kidney beans, finely ground walnut paste, and the tangy smack of tart cherry juice, sour green plums, or unsweetened pomegranate juice gives it a distinctive (and addictive) taste. It’s worth pointing out that the word “lobio” only means “beans,” allowing ample room for variations on the theme. There are a number of varieties of this dish already in the wild, so one based on pinto beans is hardly a stretch.
Some prefer to keep their beans entirely whole, while other cooks roughly mash the tender legumes, and still more chose to puree the mixture to silken sufficiency.
Tkemali, a sharp, fruity sauce made from sour plums is the traditional topper most highly recommended here, but a drizzle of thick, syrupy pomegranate molasses, or even a bold balsamic reduction can provide a similarly satisfying contrast, cutting through the concentrated bean bonanza.
You can serve lobio as an easy one-pot entree, or a side with grilled kebabs, baked tofu, or some other simple meatless protein. Either way, don’t let a lack of any one bean stop you from firing up the stove; all legumes, big and small, are welcome here.
- 1 Tablespoon Olive Oil
- 1 Large Yellow Onion, Diced
- 4 Cloves Garlic, Minced
- 2 Teaspoons Ground Fenugreek
- 2 Bay Leaves
- 2 Tablespoons Pomegranate Molasses
- 1 Teaspoon Salt
- 1/2 Teaspoon Ground Black Pepper
- 1 Pound (2 Cups) Dried Pinto Beans
- 6 Cups Water
- 3/4 Cup Walnut Butter
- 1/2 Cup Fresh Cilantro, Finely Minced
- Fresh Cilantro
- Pomegranate Arils
- In a large stock pot, warm the oil over medium heat. Once shimmering, add the onions and garlic. Saute, cooking until aromatic and lightly browned around the edges; 6 - 8 minutes.
- Add the fenugreek, bay leaves, pomegranate molasses, salt and pepper, stirring to combine. Cook for another 2 - 3 minutes to temper the spices, bringing out their full flavors.
- Add the dried beans along with the water, cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, keeping the stew at a gentle simmer for 2 1/2 - 3 hours, until the beans are tender and creamy.
- Introduce the walnut butter, stirring vigorously to incorporate smoothly. Cook for just 2 - 3 minutes longer to warm all the way through.
- Finally, turn off the heat and sprinkle in the fresh cilantro.
- Either serve with whole beans, as is, roughly mash with a potato masher, or transfer to your blender or food processor to puree. Ladle into bowls and enjoy!
- Stored in an airtight container in the fridge, leftovers will keep for 5 - 7 days. Reheat gently over medium-low heat on the stove, stirring periodically, or in the microwave.
- Soak the beans overnight to cut down the cook time to 1 - 1/2 hours.
- This can also be prepared in a pressure cooker set to high for 30 minutes, using a quick release.
- You can make your own tkemali from the recipe here.
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Amount Per Serving: Calories: 326Total Fat: 22gSaturated Fat: 2gTrans Fat: 0gUnsaturated Fat: 18gCholesterol: 0mgSodium: 369mgCarbohydrates: 29gFiber: 7gSugar: 13gProtein: 9g
All nutritional information presented within this site are intended for informational purposes only. I am not a certified nutritionist and any nutritional information on BitterSweetBlog.com should only be used as a general guideline. This information is provided as a courtesy and there is no guarantee that the information will be completely accurate. Even though I try to provide accurate nutritional information to the best of my ability, these figures should still be considered estimates.