Whole wheat bread is out; farro bread is in. As we turn the pages to a new calendar year, it’s time for a fresh start, and a new approach to ancient grains.
When “Whole Wheat” Isn’t the Whole Story
Technically speaking, farro also qualifies as “whole wheat”, and more specifically, three types of whole wheat, as we touched upon when discussing emmer, the most popular type of farro. However, generic “whole wheat bread” most likely employs hard red wheat, which makes up approximately 40% of total U.S. wheat production. Nutty, robust, and high in protein, it’s no mystery why it became the poster child for wholesome baking, particularly following the counterculture movement of the 1970s, rejecting the processed white loaves proliferating on grocery store shelves. At the same time, it became the sworn enemy of many children bringing packed lunches to school, discovering those dark, dense, and bitter slabs imprisoning wan fillings, bereft of all fun. Whole wheat had soured many generations on the idea of a more wholesome loaf.
In an attempt to elevate the profile (and gluten structure) of whole wheat bread, many brands started producing “whole grain” bread, which was mostly white bread with a bit of color. The fact that they included any meager amount of whole grains gave them the legal grounds to use the label, much to the detriment of flavor and nutrition. If you ask me, they just started out by using the wrong whole wheat all along.
Farro For All
Farro bread isn’t something you’re likely to find in stores, nor is farro flour. That’s where Grand Teton Ancient Grains comes in. They have all three types of farro in stock; einkorn, emmer, and spelt. Better yet, you can grab a bag of ready-milled all-purpose einkorn flour so you can start preheating the oven that much sooner. Buying in bulk does make a compelling case for having your own grain mill, though, especially for breaking down those whole spelt berries. Consider it the best gift you didn’t get for the holidays and treat yourself to a better New Year.
Unlike modern hard red wheat, which has been bred for high yields, consistent protein levels, and machine-friendly milling, farro varieties hold on to traits that industrial agriculture left behind. Emmer and einkorn, for example, have naturally higher levels of carotenoids, which contribute to their flaxen color and subtle sweetness. Spelt tends to be more water-soluble, which is why dough made with it can feel slack even when the protein percentage looks high on paper. Their husked kernels also protect the grain from environmental stress, which is great for biodiversity but makes them harder to process. Grand Teton Ancient Grains is keeping history alive by putting these grains back on the table. You can truly taste that difference.
The Farro Trifecta in Action
All-purpose einkorn flour is the key to success. Soft as freshly fallen snow, it lightens the crumb both in texture in color, not to mention that stunning golden hue it imparts. Edging in on brioche territory, you’d think there was egg in the mix for all its richness. To that majority component, whole spelt flour adds an earthy undertone, grounding the flavor with notes of toasted walnuts and a subtle minerality. Most noticeable, whole cooked emmer berries are woven throughout the crumb, stealing the spotlight with their irresistibly chewy, hearty texture that adds a satisfying heft to every bite.
Altogether, it’s sturdy enough to slice thinly for sandwiches, and still soft enough to cut into thick slabs for dunking into soups, or simply eating plain. Truth be told, I ate roughly 75% of this particular loaf untoasted and unadorned, aside from the thinnest glaze of vegan butter smeared on top.
Rave-Worthy Results
I’m terminally intolerant of breathless hyperbole, deliberately honing my praise to a more reasonable tenor, but this one is hard to be modest about. Of all the loaves I’ve made, this is honestly one of my top five favorites, at least. Maybe even top three, but I don’t want to hurt anyone’s feelings. It’s just as easy to whip up as any other humble sandwich bread, while having nuanced, complex flavor that you’d think could only come from a 24- or 36-hour ferment.
Better Living Through Baking
Make your New Year’s resolution to bake more bread from scratch. It’s a tangible, achievable goal with myriad benefits for health, sustainability, frugality, and honestly, happiness. Even on my worst days, a slice of warm farro bread has never failed to buoy my spirits.
Farro Bread
The trifecta of einkorn, emmer, and spelt encompass the full range of farro grains, creating a truly wholesome, flavorful, and unforgettable loaf. Tender, nutty, chewy, and satisfying, it make excellent sandwich fodder, but might simply disappear without any fanfare. It's well worth your time to mill your own whole grains whenever possible to make the best possible bread.
Ingredients
- 1 Cup Warm Water
- 3 Tablespoons Agave Nectar or Maple Syrup
- 1 Packet (2 1/4 Teaspoons) Active Dry Yeast
- 2 Tablespoons Olive Oil
- 2 1⁄2 Cups All-Purpose Einkorn Flour
- 3⁄4 Cup Spelt Flour
- 2 Tablespoons Vital Wheat Gluten
- 1 Teaspoon Salt
- 1 Cup Cooked Whole Emmer Berries
Instructions
- Combine the water and agave or maple syrup in a small bowl before sprinkling the yeast on top. Allow it to sit until the yeast is reactivated and bubbly; about 5 – 10 minutes.
- Transfer the yeast picture to the bowl of your stand mixer and add in the olive oil. Stir lightly with the dough hook to combine.
- Add the einkorn flour, spelt flour, vital wheat gluten, and salt and begin to mix slowly. Let the machine continue knead the dough for about 10 minutes on low speed, adding the cooked emmer berries about halfway through. Keep mixing until the dough forms a smooth, elastic ball. It should be a rather soft dough, so don’t be tempted to add more flour.
- Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and leave at room temperature for about 1 hour or until doubled in volume.
- When the dough has risen, preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Knead the dough very lightly once more and roll it into a smooth log. Place it into a greased 8 ½ x 4 ½-inch baking pan and let rest once more at room temperature for another 30 minutes. It should start peeking over the edge of the pan.
- Bake 35 – 40 minutes, until golden brown all over and irresistibly aromatic. Let the finished loaf rest in the pan for 15 minutes before removing it to cool completely on a wire rack. Slice, savor, and enjoy!
Recommended Products
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Nutrition Information:
Yield:
10Serving Size:
1Amount Per Serving: Calories: 130Total Fat: 0gSaturated Fat: 0gUnsaturated Fat: 0gSodium: 243mgCarbohydrates: 18gFiber: 2gSugar: 3gProtein: 3g
All nutritional information presented within this site are intended for informational purposes only. I am not a certified nutritionist and any nutritional information on BitterSweetBlog.com should only be used as a general guideline. This information is provided as a courtesy and there is no guarantee that the information will be completely accurate. Even though I try to provide accurate nutritional information to the best of my ability, these figures should still be considered estimations.