Tag: whole grains

Rye Not?

Rye is a grain of both the working class and high society. Best known for making strong brown bread and even stronger distilled spirits, rye can be as wholesome or debauched as the hands that shape it. Touching all walks of life through its long and storied history, what’s even wilder than the grain itself, is the fact that it was almost overlooked entirely by human civilization. Even though rye’s cultural renaissance may have come and gone, it remains an indispensable grain that’s primed for it’s next great revival.

Grand Teton Ancient Grains is helping to lead that charge, making bulk whole rye berries accessible in markets where local stores fail to deliver. Even rye flour has become something of a rarity, relegated to specialty stores, if you needed any additional incentive to make the plunge and buy a home grain mill.

How Rye Came to Grow Like a Weed

Originating sometime around 1000 BCE nearby modern-day Turkey and Iran, rye was first viewed as a pesky weed. Early farmers focused on cultivating barley and wheat (which are both closely related, I might add) were initially confounded as to how this interloper kept managing to tenaciously thrive amongst the other crops. This hardiness is what ultimately earned it a proper place in the fields, proving its tolerance to cold temperatures, drought, and poor soil.

Romans seized upon the resilient stalks during their conquests, bringing them back home and ultimately introducing rye to greater Ancient Europe. The grain proliferated, quickly becoming an essential staple that shaped the very foundation of their traditional foodways. Dark, dense rye bread is practically synonymous with German, Russian, Polish, and Swedish cuisines, and that’s only the beginning.

Bold, Old-World Flavor

Distinctive, assertive, and complex, rye will never slip silently onto your plate. To some, particularly super tasters, its strong, sometime bitter flavor is off-putting, but for those who love it, that’s a feature, not a flaw. At its core, rye carries a malty, toasted, earthy backbone with an almost mineral edge. That base is layered with subtle spice reminiscent of black pepper, clove, or allspice. There’s an underlying tanginess, not unlike sourdough, which amplifies rye’s nuances, pulling forward hidden notes of nuttiness and sweetness.

The form in which rye is used greatly affects the final flavor. There’s also a large amount of variation between rye grown in the spring vs winter. Let’s not forget that there are heirloom varieties, such as what you’ll find at Grand Teton Ancient Grains, and modern hybrids.

Reuben Sandwich from Brunch Bird

Modern Rye

Rye’s ascension was not meteoric nor linear. After sustaining generations through hardship and scarcity, it began to be associated with poverty. Soon, it was relegated to the back burner, replaced by light, fluffy white flours and quick-cooking whole grains. The greatest tragedy of rye is that to this day, less than 25% of the rye grown in the U.S. is harvested for human consumption, with the remainder used as livestock feed, hay, or as a cover crop. Globally, the numbers are more encouraging, though appreciation for rye still trails far behind trendier superfoods like the social media darling, quinoa, for example. Culinarily speaking, there are so more historical and contemporary uses for rye:

  • Bread: A dark, hearty loaf of bread is the first thing most people think of when you say the word “rye.” There are myriad variations on the theme, with or without caraway seeds, sweetened with molasses or raisins, and more. Aside from loaves, rye bagels, rolls, biscuits, and muffins all deserve a place at the table. Rye flour is also a major component in pumpernickel bread.
  • Crackers, Cookies, Pancakes, and Cakes: In crackers, rye bakes up crisp and snappy, with a deep, savory flavor. For desserts like cookies and cakes, rye tempers sweetness, adding a faint bitterness and nutty depth that keeps things from becoming cloying, especially in spice-forward or chocolate-rich recipes. Danish brødtorte, a layer cake made from rye bread crumbs, hazelnuts, cocoa, and molasses is an excellent example.

Rye Flake Muesli
  • Cereal, Granola, and Porridge: Using whole berries, or rolled rye flakes, this grain makes for a deeply satisfying breakfast. Rye porridge cooks up creamy yet slightly chewy, with a hearty texture that satisfies for hours. Its natural savory edge pairs well with both sweet toppings like maple syrup, fruit, and nuts, or more savory additions like unsweetened vegan yogurt and seeds. In granola, rye flakes toast beautifully, adding crunch and a subtle malty flavor that sets it apart from the usual oat-based blends.
  • Soup: Żurek is a traditional Polish sour rye soup made with fermented rye flour, sausages, root vegetables, and often served with eggs and, yes, more bread. The fermented rye starter known as Zakwas Żytni can be purchased in Polish markets, but is incredibly easy to make at home, if you have the patience to let it sit for 4 – 7 days.
  • Salad: Like any other whole grain, rye berries can be cooked and tossed into salads chilled, warm, or hot. They hold their shape, absorb dressings like a champ, and travel well, making them an excellent choice for picnics and potlucks.

Rye Whiskey and Beer
  • Whiskey: Rye finds one of its boldest expressions in whiskey, where its naturally peppery profile takes center stage. Compared to corn-heavy bourbons, rye whiskey is typically drier and more assertive, with notes of spice, herbs, and sometimes citrus or floral undertones. It’s the backbone of classic cocktails like the Manhattan and Old Fashioned, where its sharpness cuts through sweetness and brings balance. For those who enjoy a spirit with a bit of edge, rye whiskey is hard to beat.
  • Beer: Brewers have long employed rye as a flavorful twist to traditional grain bills. Rye beers often carry a slightly spicy, tangy character with a smooth, sometimes silky mouthfeel. It can be used to add complexity to everything from pale ales to stouts, though rye IPAs are especially popular for the way the grain’s spice plays against bright, citrusy hops.

Garlic-Rye Chips

Rye and Mighty Nutrition

As nutritionally dense as the loaves it makes, rye is a heavy hitter across the board. Even higher in fiber than conventional whole wheat, rye also provides more vitamin B2, B6, and E per serving, in addition to vitamins A and K, which you won’t find in the former. Rye is also a good source of manganese, potassium, copper and phosphorus. Instead of grabbing an expensive energy bar, a sturdy slice of rye bread would be a smarter midday pick-me-up.

Seeded Rye Bread

Baker in the Rye

Even for the experienced baker, working with rye flour can be daunting. Rye does contain gluten, making it unsuitable for those with celiac disease, but much less than wheat. That’s why rye bread tends to be much denser and have less rise, or is cut with a higher-gluten bread flour to improve the texture.

Buying rye flour may be even more difficult than grinding your own. Sold as light, medium, and dark rye flour, the difference is all in the milling. Light rye has most or all of the bran removed and is ground to a very fine powder, whereas on the opposite side of the spectrum, dark rye uses nearly all of the bran and is coarsely ground.

Rye flour absorbs more liquid than wheat flour, resulting in a stickier, less elastic dough. Don’t try to compensate by adding more flour, which will only result in a dry, leaden loaf. Your best bet is to substitute only 20% to 25% of the flour in cookies or cakes with rye, or 50% of the flour in bread recipes.

Cooking Whole Rye Berries

To soak or not to soak: that’s a question with no definitive answer. You don’t need to soak rye berries before cooking them, but as with all other hard grain berries and large beans, it can help cut down on the cooking time and ensure even tenderness all the way through. Should you choose to do so, soak your rye berries overnight and drain thoroughly, adding fresh water for the cooking process.

  • Stove Top: Add 1 part rye berries to 4 parts water in a large pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a steady simmer and cover. Cook for about 45 – 60 minutes if soaked, or 60 – 90 minutes if unsoaked, stirring occasionally and adding more water if needed. The berries are done when tender but still pleasantly chewy. Drain any excess liquid.
  • Pressure Cooker: Combine 1 part rye berries with 3 parts water. Cook on high pressure for 20 – 25 minutes if soaked, or 30 – 35 minutes if unsoaked. Allow the pressure to release naturally for 10 minutes before opening. Drain and enjoy.

Joy Rye-d

If rye is most closely associated with bread, then rye bread is most closely associated with the Reuben sandwich. The stuff of deli legends (despite not being kosher by combining meat and cheese), the Reuben is a simple affair composed of corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and thousand island dressing, all contained between two slices of rye bread. Taking a step back, I wondered what would happen if we removed the bread, but kept the rye? That’s how rye-sotto, featuring whole rye berries instead of the conventional rice found in risotto, was born.

Gone A-Rye

Though whole rye berries lack the free starch found in rice that typically makes risotto thick and creamy, they have the advantage of staying satisfyingly chewy no matter how long you cook them. The solution is to create a slurry from rye flour to thicken the broth like a rich gravy, cradling the tender cooked grains.

Completing the Reuben revolution was easy from there, using chopped vegan corned beef slices, either store-bought or homemade, like you might employ bacon or pancetta in a more traditional risotto, to carry the greatest gustatory weight. Dairy-free Parmesan takes the place of Swiss for a greater umami impact, and the whole thing is finished with a drizzle of thousand island crema, less oily than dressing but with all the same bite. Effortlessly elegant without being fussy, it takes the beloved comfort food to a whole new level.

All Ryes On Me

Rye doesn’t need reinvention so much as reconsideration. It’s been here all along, resilient in the field, uncompromising on the palate, and endlessly adaptable in the kitchen. Whether you meet it in a dense loaf, a warming bowl, or a sweet treat, rye rewards curiosity with character. If there’s a revival ahead, I can only hope it’ll be driven by a renewed appreciation for a truly great whole grain.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)9 Comments

Einkorn’s Ultimate Plot Twist

Back in my earliest days as a picky eater, pasta was absolutely fundamental to my being. Even that was unadventurous stuff, served either buttered or smothered in cheese sauce. The shape was similarly mundane, limited to only the basics when it came to everyday options: elbows, spaghetti, and my favorite, fusilli. Or, as I called them, “twists”. The tightly coiled corkscrews created layers of texture to sink your teeth into while creating scores of little pockets that catch and hold onto sauces, should you be so bold as to apply them. Even with such a limited palate, I think my younger self would have would have gone wild for the new Einkorn Fusilli from Grand Teton Ancient Grains.

The Best Kind of Plot Twist

Joining their trio of longer noodle stands, fusilli is the first short shape offered by Grand Teton Ancient Grains. Just like the original lineup, they’re made with 100% organic einkorn, extruded through bronze dies, and slow-dried. It’s that attention to detail that blows mass-produced macaroni out of the water.

Weeknight Speed, Weekend Quality

Pasta has always been an easy answer to last-minute meals, but these fusilli take speed to the next level. They cook to al dente perfection in only 5 minutes, much like you would expect from fresh pasta, but with the convenience of being shelf-stable. That also means that in the case of very saucy dishes, you can often add them straight into the pan, no par-cooking necessary, fully infusing each tender twist with flavor.

Built For Every Sauce

There’s nothing the hardworking fusilli can’t do. Named from the Italian “fuso,” meaning “spindle” in reference to the rod once used to hand-twist each piece, they’re a natural base for red sauce, be that marinara, arrabbiata, puttanesca, amatriciana, Bolognese, pomodoro, ragu; you name it, these noodles can handle it. Each ruffled crenelation holds just as tightly to more delicate sauces too, such as pesto, browned butter, or the most humble aglio e olio (garlic and olive oil). Especially given the rough, porous surface created from these specific bronze dies, Grand Teton Ancient Grains einkorn fusilli fulfills any noodle needs.

Nutritional Upgrade

Mac and cheese is what I most closely associate with tiny twists, as per my earliest childhood exposure. Granted, this was always from the blue box, nothing nearly as luxurious as this. Einkorn fusilli would have blown my young mind apart. Who knows, maybe I would have found an appreciation for real food earlier on… Or just become more pasta-obsessed than ever. At least, einkorn pasta has more protein, higher levels of iron, zinc, and magnesium, and scores more B vitamins than conventional options, so I’d be better off nutritionally with such a selective diet.

Comfort Food For All Occasions

The curative properties of meatless chicken noodle soup take on greater prowess when einkorn pasta takes the place of the typical, flaccid strands. Each spiral holds its structure in the simmering broth, resisting the fate of dissolving into mush, while soaking up all that savory, herb-laced goodness in the process. It transforms a simple, soothing staple into something with real substance: heartier, more satisfying, and something you’ll want to ladle out in big bowls even when nothing ails you.

A Dish Best Served Cold

Pasta salad might be where these twists truly shine, though, especially once the weather begins to warm and heavy meals lose their appeal. Their springy shape is tailor-made for catching bits of every crisp vegetable, briny olives, sharp dairy-free cheeses, or toasted nuts, so every forkful feels balanced and complete. Unlike softer pastas that can turn limp after a stint in the fridge, einkorn fusilli maintains its al dente bite, holding up beautifully to tangy vinaigrette or creamy dressings alike. Packed for a picnic or pulled straight from the fridge for an easy meal, it’s a smart option to have prepped all summer long.

Summertime Staycation

To that end, I’d like to suggest another unconventional approach. Easily outshine every other dish at your next potluck with something brighter, bolder, and a little unexpected. Juicy mango, crisp red bell pepper, crunchy jicama, and a generous squeeze of lime swirl around those toothsome einkorn spirals. Sweet-tart Sunset Mango Pasta Salad captures a bite of easy-going island energy, like watching golden hour paint the shoreline in gilded hues. Worlds away from the beige, mayo-laden standards that tend to dominate the genre, this fresh combination simply shines.

Spirals, In Constant Rotation

It’s a good thing Grand Teton Ancient Grains packages their fusilli in two-pound bags because I’ve been devouring it at an almost embarrassing pace. If there’s pasta involved, this is the one I reach for without thinking. One new recipe idea begets another, never coming close to exhausting the culinary possibilities, or my hunger for more. Only take the plunge if you’re ready to have a standing order; after one taste, going back to discount dried pasta will be tough to swallow.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments

Millet-ary Precision

History has not been kind to millet. Once one of the most crucial crops fueling human development and civilization across Africa, India, and Asia, it remains on the periphery of Western culture today. I’ll never forget the first time I sought out this pseudo-cereal to make a Macrobiotic recipe, only to be mocked for bringing “birdseed” to a potluck. Unfairly saddled with this reputation up until very recently, much like chia was once known only as fodder for terracotta planters, millet is poised for a big comeback.

Part of the problem is of accessibility. Absent from mainstream store shelves and basic bulk bin sections, Grand Teton Ancient Grains is helping to put millet back in the hands of cooks around the country. I’ll admit that millet fell off my radar until I saw it on their website, highlighted like a flashbulb memory, waiting to pick up the story right where I left it.

A Brief Overview of Millet’s Long History

Millet could have very well ruled the world. Cultivated somewhere between 8,000 to 10,000 years ago in Asia, it even pre-dates rice. It makes cameo appearances in religious texts, including the Old Testament and the Yajurveda in India, to give you a hint of its cultural significance. Once it spread to Europe, it was more common than wheat in the Middle Ages. Compared to other most whole grains, millet needs little water, scant nutrients in the soil, and is resistant to many pests both in the field and during storage.

Why, then, did it fall out of favor so precipitously? We can thank colonialism and capitalism. Western powers pushed for more wheat, rice, and corn, throwing subsidies their way to help with research and industrialization. As more processed grain products were developed, millet was left behind, giving it a reputation of being old-fashioned or food for the poor; those who couldn’t afford luxuries like sliced white bread.

What is Millet?

Though generally viewed and treated like a whole grain, millet is technically a seed. Botanically speaking, it belongs to the Poaceae family, commonly known as the grass family. There are as many as 6,000 types of millet, differing in size, color, and flavor. Pearl millet is the variety most commonly produced for human consumption globally, though there’s far greater diversity, in India especially.

Curried Millet Pulao

“Millet” is actually a broad, catch-all term for a group of small-seeded grasses cultivated for food. Common varieties include foxtail, finger, and proso (which is what Grand Teton Ancient Grains offers), just to name a few, each with its own culinary uses and regional importance. In general, millet seeds are small, round, and can range in color from pale yellow to deep red or even gray.

What unites them is less their exact botanical classification and more their shared characteristics: they are hardy, fast-growing crops that thrive in dry conditions and poor soils, making them especially important in regions prone to drought. When cooked, millet typically has a mild, slightly nutty flavor that’s reminiscent of cornmeal, and a texture that can vary from fluffy and grain-like to creamy, depending on how it’s prepared.

Strawberry Millet Pudding

Multitudinous Uses For Millet

Millet’s versatility is a big reason why it’s remained vital across so many different cultures and eras. Depending on the cooking method, it can be light and fluffy like couscous, or soft and creamy like polenta, neutral enough in flavor to be adaptable to both savory and sweet preparations.

Across the world, millet is deeply embedded in traditional cuisines.

  • In West Africa, it is used to make thick porridges and dishes like hausa koko and couscous-style preparations. In the Horn of Africa, though teff is the most famous base, millet can also be fermented into injera, the spongy flatbread that underpins many meals.
  • In India, a wide range of millets are still used to prepare everyday staples such as roti, dosa, and idly. Millet khichdi and upma are classic comfort foods that are often enjoyed for breakfast especially in rural and regional cooking.
  • In China, millet has long been used for congee instead of rice, and for brewing baijiu, a distilled spirit that dates back to the 1500s.

In more modern contexts, millet has been gaining attention as a highly nutritious and gluten-free ingredient.

  • It’s increasingly used in baked goods like breads, muffins, cereals, and crackers, either as whole seeds, rolled into flakes, puffed, or ground into flour.
  • Some brewers have also begun tapping millet as an alternative to wheat in creating gluten-free beers.
  • In the home kitchen, it’s stellar for making quick pilafs, adding to soups and stews, salads, and stir fries.
  • Many pediatricians recommend millet as a baby’s first solid food for its soft texture and easy digestibility.

Breakfast Millet Porridge with Cinnamon and Raisins

Millet’s Nutritional Highlights

Nutritionally, millet punches well above its weight. Because you’re eating the whole seed, you get the full complement of fiber and complex carbs that digest slowly. Rich in magnesium, phosphorus, and iron, some varieties are also especially high in calcium, which is unusual for grains. Since it’s naturally gluten-free, it’s a great option for people with Celiac disease or anyone looking for wheat-free options.

How To Cook Millet

Where millet loses most modern consumers is in the cooking. On the plus side, it cooks incredibly fast, but on the downside, it can just as quickly turn to mush. Sometimes that’s the goal, for creamy purees and puddings, but most Americans like their grains separate, fluffy, and distinct. Further complicating matters is that the different varieties of millet DO cook differently; it may take some trial and error to achieve the perfect ratio of water and time to make your ideal millet. Speaking specifically for cooking with Grand Teton Ancient Grains white millet, here’s what I do:

  1. Start by rinsing the millet under cool water. For the best flavor, toast the drained millet in a dry saucepan over medium heat for a few minutes, stirring frequently, until it smells lightly nutty. This step is optional, but it gives the finished dish a deeper, more complex taste.
  2. From there, add liquid; about 2 cups of water or broth for every 1 cup of millet, and a pinch of salt. Bring it to a boil, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer gently for about 15 minutes. Once the liquid has absorbed, remove it from the heat and let it sit, covered, for another 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork before serving.
  3. If you’d rather a creamy porridge consistency, increase the liquid to 3 – 5 cups, and cook for 20 – 25 minutes. In either case, there’s no need to pull out your pressure cooker, since it’s a breeze to make on the stove top, even without soaking in advance, like many harder grains would require.

Millet Polenta with Beefless Stew

Millet: The Whole Enchilada

Reinvigorated by the fresh inspiration that only a 5-pound bag of Grand Teton Ancient Grains millet can provide, my head was spinning with possibilities. What about millet-stuffed cabbage, peppers, or zucchini? I though I was being creative with a truly ground-breaking experiment, but in fact, someone beat me to the idea of making millet-based vegan cheese. Instead of driving myself crazy with the endless possibilities outstretched before me, it all clicked when I wasn’t trying to be remotely innovative. I was just tired, hungry, and thought “millet skillet” would be fun to say.

Simmered in enchilada sauce alongside a battery of sautéed fresh vegetables, this Enchilada Millet Skillet gives you the full sabor of the Mexican specialty, all in one pan. Forget about rolling tortillas and start setting the table, ASAP, because this beauty will be done in roughly minutes. Any dish instantly becomes more appealing when smothered in melted cheese, making this a surefire way to get a hearty helping of millet into your regular meal plan rotation.

If You Will It, You Can Millet

Millet defies the odds. Once revered, then relegated to birdseed, its star is beginning to rise once again. In a time when resilience, sustainability, and nutrition matter more than ever, millet checks all the boxes. Finding its way back onto our plates with renewed vigor, it brings with it centuries of history and endless possibilities for the future… Especially, for your next mouthwatering meal.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Endless Einkorn Pastabilities

I very nearly destroyed my stand mixer trying to make einkorn pasta. I’m no stranger to the art of pasta making thanks to a brief but immersive obsession during COVID19, so I had full confidence that this simple experiment would be a wild success.

I was wildly wrong.

Wads of wet, sticky, yet impossibly thick dough clogged the extruding attachment from top to bottom, inexorably stuck in pasta purgatory. No amount of prodding could convince it to come out, nor additional flour, water, or even oil. Only time could heal this wound, letting the einkorn paste dry up to a point where I could chisel it out a few days later. I vowed then and there that I would never make einkorn pasta again. Fortunately for me and you, I don’t have to.

Buy, Don’t DIY

Grand Teton Ancient Grains, my favorite resource for whole grains and the instigators of my whole einkorn infatuation, now make luxurious long strands of einkorn angel hair, spaghetti, and linguine. This stuff is the real deal, made with 100% einkorn semolina and nothing else. No filler, no nonsense. That means they pack a punch, nutritionally speaking, with more than twice the amount of protein as standard white flour pasta. It’s a good thing they’re packed in two-pound bulk bags because I can’t keep my hands off of these beauties.

Bronze Takes First Place

Bronze-cut pasta is the gold standard for quality pasta production, pioneered by the Italians in the 17th century. Otherwise known as trafilata al bronzo, the bronze dies create a rougher surface as the dough is extruded. That means the resulting noodles have a more satisfying bite and are better suited to capturing and holding on to whatever sauces you throw at them. The technique fell out of favor as modern manufacturing demanded faster turnaround times, but the difference is obvious. Modern bronze-cut pasta exemplifies a philosophy of patience and respect for ingredients without having to say a word.

Taste Beyond Compare

While the deep flaxen hue may look like standard whole wheat, the flavor is anything but. Subtly sweet and delicate, there’s none of the off-putting bitterness that the bran of modern wheat can impart. Naturally buttery, honeyed, and slightly toasted, it has a softer, rounder flavor that doesn’t dominate sauces. Einkorn pasta gives you the best of all worlds.

Guardian Angels

Angel hair is typically my last choice when cravings come calling, but this version grants it a massive upgrade on the noodle hierarchy. After a mere two minutes in the water, they’re already supple and ready to serve, yet stronger than the average gossamer strands. Tender without collapsing, delicate without disappearing, I finally understand the enduring appeal of this much maligned noodle.

Spaghetti Theory

Einkorn spaghetti invites a bolder approach. Thicker and more robust, it has the structure to stand up to assertive flavors and sturdier mix-ins without losing its elegance. This is the pasta I reached for when making Dirty Martini Pasta, where briny olives, sharp citrus, and glossy olive oil demand a noodle with both backbone and nuance. Einkorn’s naturally earthy flavor softens the high notes, keeping the dish balanced rather than abrasive. Each bite feels cohesive; salty, silky, and just indulgent enough to honor such sophisticated cocktail inspirations.

Lingering Over Linguine

Wider lengths of linguine possess a certain grounded grandeur. Like slightly flattened ribbons, it has a natural grace that makes it feel composed even before sauce enters the picture. It holds space beautifully, lending a hearty bite to any dish it stars in, and yes, it will easily steal the spotlight. This is the kind of pasta that invites intention, rewarding thoughtful pairings rather than excess.

Eat Like a Rockefeller

That balance made it the obvious choice for making Oyster Mushrooms Pastafeller, a plant-forward nod to the flavors of Oysters Rockefeller. Feathery oyster mushrooms take on the role of velvety seared seafood, bolstered by briny capers and kelp granules, while herbs, aromatics, and richness envelope the whole dish. Al dente linguine entwines in a comforting tangle, paying proper homage to the inspiration without attempting imitation.

While I’m not happy about the original pasta maker mishap, it does give me a greater appreciation for the artistry that goes into a ready-made solution. The difference is knowing when to let go of DIY bravado and trust true craftsmanship. That’s what made Oyster Mushroom Pastafeller possible and ready on a whim, without bringing out the heavy artillery. Grand Teton Ancient Grains delivers einkorn pasta that honors the grain without asking you to wrestle it into submission. Sometimes the smartest move isn’t trying harder, but choosing better.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

In a Loaf Far, Farro Away

Whole wheat bread is out; farro bread is in. As we turn the pages to a new calendar year, it’s time for a fresh start, and a new approach to ancient grains.

When “Whole Wheat” Isn’t the Whole Story

Technically speaking, farro also qualifies as “whole wheat”, and more specifically, three types of whole wheat, as we touched upon when discussing emmer, the most popular type of farro. However, generic “whole wheat bread” most likely employs hard red wheat, which makes up approximately 40% of total U.S. wheat production. Nutty, robust, and high in protein, it’s no mystery why it became the poster child for wholesome baking, particularly following the counterculture movement of the 1970s, rejecting the processed white loaves proliferating on grocery store shelves. At the same time, it became the sworn enemy of many children bringing packed lunches to school, discovering those dark, dense, and bitter slabs imprisoning wan fillings, bereft of all fun. Whole wheat had soured many generations on the idea of a more wholesome loaf.

In an attempt to elevate the profile (and gluten structure) of whole wheat bread, many brands started producing “whole grain” bread, which was mostly white bread with a bit of color. The fact that they included any meager amount of whole grains gave them the legal grounds to use the label, much to the detriment of flavor and nutrition. If you ask me, they just started out by using the wrong whole wheat all along.

Farro For All

Farro bread isn’t something you’re likely to find in stores, nor is farro flour. That’s where Grand Teton Ancient Grains comes in. They have all three types of farro in stock; einkorn, emmer, and spelt. Better yet, you can grab a bag of ready-milled all-purpose einkorn flour so you can start preheating the oven that much sooner. Buying in bulk does make a compelling case for having your own grain mill, though, especially for breaking down those whole spelt berries. Consider it the best gift you didn’t get for the holidays and treat yourself to a better New Year.

Unlike modern hard red wheat, which has been bred for high yields, consistent protein levels, and machine-friendly milling, farro varieties hold on to traits that industrial agriculture left behind. Emmer and einkorn, for example, have naturally higher levels of carotenoids, which contribute to their flaxen color and subtle sweetness. Spelt tends to be more water-soluble, which is why dough made with it can feel slack even when the protein percentage looks high on paper. Their husked kernels also protect the grain from environmental stress, which is great for biodiversity but makes them harder to process. Grand Teton Ancient Grains is keeping history alive by putting these grains back on the table. You can truly taste that difference.

The Farro Trifecta in Action

All-purpose einkorn flour is the key to success. Soft as freshly fallen snow, it lightens the crumb both in texture and color, not to mention that stunning golden hue it imparts. Edging in on brioche territory, you’d think there was egg in the mix for all its richness. To that majority component, whole spelt flour adds an earthy undertone, grounding the flavor with notes of toasted walnuts and a subtle minerality. Most noticeable, whole cooked emmer berries are woven throughout the crumb, stealing the spotlight with their irresistibly chewy, hearty texture that adds a satisfying heft to every bite.

Altogether, it’s sturdy enough to slice thinly for sandwiches, and still soft enough to cut into thick slabs for dunking into soups, or simply eating plain. Truth be told, I ate roughly 75% of this particular loaf untoasted and unadorned, aside from the thinnest glaze of vegan butter smeared on top.

Rave-Worthy Results

I’m terminally intolerant of breathless hyperbole, deliberately honing my praise to a more reasonable tenor, but this one is hard to be modest about. Of all the loaves I’ve made, this is honestly one of my top five favorites, at least. Maybe even top three, but I don’t want to hurt anyone’s feelings. It’s just as easy to whip up as any other humble sandwich bread, while having nuanced, complex flavor that you’d think could only come from a 24- or 36-hour ferment.

Better Living Through Baking

Make your New Year’s resolution to bake more bread from scratch. It’s a tangible, achievable goal with myriad benefits for health, sustainability, frugality, and honestly, happiness. Even on my worst days, a slice of warm farro bread has never failed to buoy my spirits.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments

Emmer-gence

“Emmer” may not ring a bell, but I have a feeling you know more about it than you think. Just flip its name tag over to the better known moniker of farro, and it’s like we’re talking about a whole different grain. Yes, misunderstandings about the title abound, so it’s long overdue that we set the record straight. Emmer is an ancient grain that deserves a spot on every modern table.

In a Land Far, Farro Away

What’s truly wild is how few people understand what exactly farro is. Still on the fringes of mainstream grocery stores, granted, it’s not at the top of the average eater’s grocery list. Farro became trendy in the US sometime around the 90s and 00s, alongside the boom of Italian imports like balsamic vinegar and olive oil that didn’t taste like rancid gasoline. However, what makes things more confusing is that no one grain is defined as farro. Rather, there are three types of farro:

  • Farro grande; spelt
  • Farro piccolo; einkorn
  • Farro medio; emmer

Emmer is the grain most commonly referred to as farro, when no other qualifiers can be found. Farro wheat, which is also classified as durum wheat, is defined by the way it grows, with two rows of grain on opposite sides of a single stalk.

Conveniently, Grand Teton Ancient Grains sells all three types, so you can see (and taste) the difference for yourself!

Emmer Through the Ages

Botanical semantics out of the way, emmer is one of the preeminent whole grains. Known as “Mother Wheat,” it was one of the first grains to be domesticated in the Near East over 10,000 years ago. A staple crop in ancient Israel and Egypt, it spread to Italy following the Roman invasion around 50 BCE, where it took root in the culture and remains a top crop to this day. The rest of Europe developed a taste for this high-protein whole grain as well, especially when it comes to bread making in Germany and Switzerland. It’s also a crucial ingredient in Ethiopia, where it’s enjoyed primarily as a hot porridge.

Emmer Is Good Eats

Flavor always comes first in my kitchen, which is why emmer has become a fast favorite around here, too. Nutty and complex, there’s a subtle taste that reminds me of fresh almonds when cooked, adding a gently sweet finish that tastes both honeyed and malted. Chewy and robust, the whole wheat berry stands up well to long-simmered soups and stews, never falling apart under pressure. That also makes it an excellent addition to salads, both hot and cold, and keeps beautifully for meal prep and travel. When ground into flour, it makes silky smooth batters, though it can create denser breads due to a lesser gluten content, compared to modern wheat varieties.

Nutritional Benefits for People and the Planet

Prized for its ability to thrive in poor soils and harsh climates, emmer is beloved by farmers as a sustainable superstar. It generally needs fewer chemical inputs like fertilizers and pesticides, and is more drought-tolerant than modern wheat. As beneficial to the planet as the people that eat it, consumers can reap the rewards of many trace minerals in every serving, including iron, zinc, magnesium, and niacin. It’s high in protein and fiber, making it a satisfying foundation to any meal. Being that it is a form of wheat, however, it is not gluten-free, and not appropriate for those with celiac disease. Some who are merely intolerant report better digestibility, since it has less gluten than conventional wheat varieties.

Emmer Everyday, in All the Ways

Is there anything that emmer can’t do? Found across cultures and continents, whole and ground, there’s always a place for it at the table.

  • Soups and stews: Perhaps best known in Tuscan zuppa di farro, these sturdy whole grains are the ideal swap for pasta in any minestrone, Italian wedding soup, cacio e pepe, and so much more.
  • Risotto: As a modern twist to the traditional rice dish, farrotto is just plain fun to say. Some renditions favor cracked or pearled emmer for their faster cooking times, and/or soak them in advance to help expedite the process.
  • Salads and pilafs: Served hot, at room temperature, or fully chilled, emmer won’t let you down at dinnertime. Pair it with hearty roasted vegetables or delicate leafy greens and fresh herbs
  • Breads: In India, the flour is known as khapli wheat and is favored for making whole grain roti, dosa, and paratha. Aish baladi, a flatbread very similar to pita, is an core Egyptian delicacy, frequently stuffed or torn into piece for dipping. European loaves often combine it with a sourdough starter for greater loft and nuanced flavor.
  • Sweets: Treats like cookies, pie dough, muffins, cakes, pancakes, and more can all benefit from an emmer underpinning. Dense like most whole wheat flours, it adds heft and a hearty bite, balanced nicely by sugar, and especially the addition of spice.
  • Porridge and hot cereal: Cooked either whole or coarsely ground, emmer makes an excellent breakfast meal. Depending on your preferences, it can be served with savory additions like chickpeas and za’atar, or sweet finishes like fresh berries and maple syrup.
  • Beer and spirits: Though a bit tricky to find in the US, emmer beer has been a brewer’s best friend for millennia. Emmer beer was once one of the healthiest ways to hydrate, before the days of clean water and further filtration. Some distillers take it a step further to make emmer whiskey, though the rarity of those bottles drives a considerable price tag. 

Other notable traditional dishes that defy easy categorization include torta a farro, a savory cake reminiscent of a frittata, arancini di farro, favoring emmer in the typical deep-fried rice ball, and adjar pilaf, an Armenian side dish with mushrooms and onions.

Cooking Tips and Tricks

Whole emmer wheat berries are incredibly forgiving when it comes to cooking. Treat them like beans for the best results; use plenty of water, simmer low and slow, and drain off the excess. Of course, you can always speed things up with a little help from your trusty pressure cooker.

  • On the stove top, start by rinsing 1 cup of whole emmer wheat berries under cold water to remove any dust or debris. Then, place them in a pot with about 3 cups of water and a pinch of salt. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover the pot and let it cook for 45 – 60 minutes, or until the grains are tender but still chewy. If you’re using pearled emmer, the cooking time may be closer to 25 – 30 minutes. Once cooked, drain any excess liquid and fluff the grains with a fork.
  • In a pressure cooker, combine 1 cup of rinsed emmer wheat berries with 2 1/2 cups of water and a pinch of salt. Seal the lid and cook on high pressure for 20 – 25 minutes (or 12 – 15 minutes for pearled). Allow the pressure to release naturally for 10 minutes, then release any remaining pressure manually. Drain any excess liquid if needed, and the grains are ready to use.

Enjoy your emmer right away while still hot, or let cool completely, then store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 5 – 7 days. Consider keeping it in the freezer for long-term storage, up to 6 months, if you’d rather make bigger batches at a time.

Kasha is Out, Emmer is In

With Hanukkah looming right around the corner, Jewish comfort food has been top of mind. Kasha varnishkes aren’t making headlines like latkes and brisket, though they’re just as welcome at the holiday feast as they are on the average, everyday dinner table. “Kasha” means buckwheat and “varnishkes” refers to noodles, typically bow-tie shaped pasta, AKA farfalle in this case, fully explaining the simplicity and universal appeal of the dish. Bolstered by caramelized onions, the earthy whole grains add a comforting weight to al dente semolina pasta. It’s a beloved comfort food of Eastern European Jews through the generations. My unconventional suggestion is to drop the bitter buckwheat in favor of subtly sweet emmer berries.

Emmer Varnishkes are my contribution to the culinary canon. While buckwheat has its own old world charm, it tends to skew more bitter, grassy, and sometimes as earthy as a whole barnyard. The mild sweetness of emmer melds effortlessly with the richness of the dish, bringing out the complex chestnut and freshly popped popcorn notes. The key is to toast the emmer before simmering lightly salted stock, enhancing the naturally nutty flavor locked within. Then, perfectly befitting of the holiday, instead of schmaltz, olive oil honors the Hanukkah miracle, all while adding a peppery brightness.

Far-Out Emmer

If you’re a fan of farro, guess what? You’re already on board with emmer. Next time you see “farro” on a menu or in a recipe, you’ll know the story runs deeper than a trendy grain bowl. Emmer has nourished civilizations for thousands of years, and it’s still feeding our curiosity, and our appetites, today. Whether simmering in a soup pot, baked into bread, or starring in your next grain salad, there’s still so much more to discover with this ancient grain.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)13 Comments