Mooncakes have long been an enigma to me. Ornate little pastries that gleam as if lit from within, their attraction is undeniable and magnetic, even for someone who didn’t grow up celebrating the Mid-Autumn Festival. Heavy with meaning and dense fillings alike, they’re the centerpiece of the whole event, one of the most important holidays celebrated throughout China and in many other East and Southeast Asian communities.
Traditionalism Meets Veganism
As a vegan, though, they seemed destined to remain behind glass. The biggest barrier to entry is that most traditional mooncakes aren’t even vegetarian. Depending on the style, the pastry may be made with lard or butter, and the most iconic varieties conceal salted egg yolks at their center, luminous as miniature harvest moons. For years, that meant I was relegated to admiring them from afar rather than partaking. Happily, compassionate bakers have made it possible to buy plant-based mooncakes direct, or create your own from scratch.
The Many Phases of a Mooncake
The lack of firsthand experience only deepened my curiosity. By the time I finally got a taste, crafted by a friend talented, patient, and generous to share such a gift, I was beside myself with wonder. Far from a single, codified pastry, mooncakes are more like an entire family of desserts, each region putting its own stamp on centuries of tradition.
- Cantonese mooncakes are the style most familiar outside of Asia, and likely the image that springs to mind when most people hear the word. Their glossy, amber-brown crust is remarkably thin, yielding to dense, velvety fillings like lotus seed paste, red beans, black sesame, or mixed nuts.
- Suzhou mooncakes are defined by dozens of delicate, flaky layers that shatter with each bite. Sweet and savory versions coexist happily here, with fillings ranging from adzuki bean paste to spiced pork, making them feel more like a laminated pastry.
- Teochew mooncakes are instantly recognizable by their mesmerizing spiral crusts, created by folding alternating layers of dough until they resemble edible pinwheels. Slice one in half and the intricate pattern is almost as captivating as the filling, which often features yams, mung beans, or black sesame.
- Beijing mooncakes are a little more rustic, with a thicker, drier pastry surrounding comparatively modest fillings. Less sugary than their southern counterparts, they’re often flavored with nuts, dried fruits, or sesame seeds.
- Then there are snow skin mooncakes, the rebels of the bunch. Introduced in Hong Kong in the late twentieth century, they’re never baked at all. Instead, a soft, chewy shell made from glutinous rice flour encases chilled fillings, much like mochi, opening the door to flavors like mango, matcha, pandan, taro, durian, chocolate, and coffee; some are even stuffed with ice cream.
That’s only scratching the surface. Nearly every region, city, and individual bakery has its own interpretation, with family recipes passed down alongside the molds that imprint each pastry’s intricate designs. Asking someone to define the mooncake is a little like asking an American to define the pie. You’ll get a clear answer, but the answer will change depending on who you ask.
A Slice of Life
What I love most about mooncakes, aside from their flavor, is that they were never meant to be eaten alone. Mooncakes were designed to be a communal experience from the beginning. Their richness would be overwhelming for a single person, turning what should be a celebration into an exercise in excess. Instead, they’re always shared, cut into small wedges and passed around the table alongside cups of tea, as families and friends linger beneath the harvest moon. After centuries of evolving recipes, regional styles, and artistic flourishes, that’s the tradition that has endured. The pastry itself may change, but it’s that thread connecting the past, present, and future that matters most.