Tag: ancient grains

Cook This Book: The Essential Einkorn Cookbook

Einkorn is still an enigma to many, lingering on the fringes of the modern food world like a half-remembered story; vaguely familiar and intriguing, but rarely invited into the daily routine. The Essential Einkorn Cookbook by Katie Koyle is exactly the lens needed to bring this grain into sharp focus, pulling back the curtain to reveal einkorn’s remarkable versatility in the contemporary kitchen.

Unlike trend-driven cookbooks that position ancient grains as novelties, likely to be forgotten when the next superfood craze rolls around, Koyle’s approach is refreshingly grounded. She treats einkorn not as a curiosity to be decoded, but as a staple to be understood. As a crucial part of the team at Grand Teton Ancient Grains, Koyle has spent years working intimately with this original wheat in all its permutations, and that fluency shows on every page. She knows how einkorn behaves, where it resists, and how to coax out its best qualities without force or fuss.

Though this is not a vegan or vegetarian cookbook, the guidance it offers transcends dietary lines. The foundational information, such as how einkorn absorbs liquid differently, why it prefers gentler handling, and how its golden hue signals richness rather than density, applies to anyone willing to experiment. Even recipes that include animal products are written with a technical clarity that makes them easy to adapt, making this book a valuable resource for adventurous eaters of all kinds.

The baking chapters are where einkorn truly shines, and Koyle wisely leans into that strength. Her focaccia (page 53) is a standout: plush and tender with a crumb that manages to be both airy and satisfying, its flavor deeper and more complex than versions made with conventional white flour. Einkorn’s natural sweetness comes through subtly, pairing beautifully with olive oil and herbs without collapsing into a heavy, overly dense dough. It’s the kind of bread that disappears quickly, torn by hand and eaten warm, with or without embellishment.

The pumpkin muffins (page 99), crowned with a generous crumb topping, are another highlight. Einkorn’s softness lends itself beautifully to quick breads, producing muffins that are moist without being gummy and richly flavored with the barest measure of sugar for balance. I love that it calls for a full can of pumpkin puree, not some trifling half-measure for the sake of color, and you only need to substitute the two eggs with 1/2 cup of applesauce to reap the fully vegan rewards. The crumb topping, when made with dairy-free butter, adds a certain decadence that straddles the line between nourishment and indulgence, equally suited to breakfast, afternoon coffee, or a late night snack.

Outside of the oven, einkorn proves its adaptability. Chicken and dumplings (page 125) offers a reminder that ancient grains are not confined to rustic loaves and pastries. The dumplings, tender and flavorful, hold together with grace, absorbing the broth while maintaining their structure. It’s a snap to swap in your favorite meatless protein and vegetable stock to make it effortlessly plant-based.

What makes The Essential Einkorn Cookbook especially successful is its humility and pragmatism. Koyle never oversells einkorn, nor does she shy away from its quirks. Instead, she offers practical wisdom, gentle reassurance, and recipes that work as an invitation rather than a challenge. It should also be said that the photography, shot by Koyle herself, is truly stunning, emphasizing texture, color, and process over polish. It’s equally inspirational and aspirational, especially to anyone that’s more of a visual learner.

For anyone curious about baking beyond conventional wheat, or simply looking to deepen their relationship with the ingredients they already love, this book is both a guide and a companion. Einkorn may be ancient, but in Koyle’s experienced hands, it feels entirely alive, ready to earn its place at the table, one loaf, muffin, and dumpling at a time.

This post was made possible as a collaboration with Grand Teton Ancient Grains. My opinions can not be bought and all content is original. This page may contain affiliate links; thank you for supporting my blog!

Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

In a Loaf Far, Farro Away

Whole wheat bread is out; farro bread is in. As we turn the pages to a new calendar year, it’s time for a fresh start, and a new approach to ancient grains.

When “Whole Wheat” Isn’t the Whole Story

Technically speaking, farro also qualifies as “whole wheat”, and more specifically, three types of whole wheat, as we touched upon when discussing emmer, the most popular type of farro. However, generic “whole wheat bread” most likely employs hard red wheat, which makes up approximately 40% of total U.S. wheat production. Nutty, robust, and high in protein, it’s no mystery why it became the poster child for wholesome baking, particularly following the counterculture movement of the 1970s, rejecting the processed white loaves proliferating on grocery store shelves. At the same time, it became the sworn enemy of many children bringing packed lunches to school, discovering those dark, dense, and bitter slabs imprisoning wan fillings, bereft of all fun. Whole wheat had soured many generations on the idea of a more wholesome loaf.

In an attempt to elevate the profile (and gluten structure) of whole wheat bread, many brands started producing “whole grain” bread, which was mostly white bread with a bit of color. The fact that they included any meager amount of whole grains gave them the legal grounds to use the label, much to the detriment of flavor and nutrition. If you ask me, they just started out by using the wrong whole wheat all along.

Farro For All

Farro bread isn’t something you’re likely to find in stores, nor is farro flour. That’s where Grand Teton Ancient Grains comes in. They have all three types of farro in stock; einkorn, emmer, and spelt. Better yet, you can grab a bag of ready-milled all-purpose einkorn flour so you can start preheating the oven that much sooner. Buying in bulk does make a compelling case for having your own grain mill, though, especially for breaking down those whole spelt berries. Consider it the best gift you didn’t get for the holidays and treat yourself to a better New Year.

Unlike modern hard red wheat, which has been bred for high yields, consistent protein levels, and machine-friendly milling, farro varieties hold on to traits that industrial agriculture left behind. Emmer and einkorn, for example, have naturally higher levels of carotenoids, which contribute to their flaxen color and subtle sweetness. Spelt tends to be more water-soluble, which is why dough made with it can feel slack even when the protein percentage looks high on paper. Their husked kernels also protect the grain from environmental stress, which is great for biodiversity but makes them harder to process. Grand Teton Ancient Grains is keeping history alive by putting these grains back on the table. You can truly taste that difference.

The Farro Trifecta in Action

All-purpose einkorn flour is the key to success. Soft as freshly fallen snow, it lightens the crumb both in texture and color, not to mention that stunning golden hue it imparts. Edging in on brioche territory, you’d think there was egg in the mix for all its richness. To that majority component, whole spelt flour adds an earthy undertone, grounding the flavor with notes of toasted walnuts and a subtle minerality. Most noticeable, whole cooked emmer berries are woven throughout the crumb, stealing the spotlight with their irresistibly chewy, hearty texture that adds a satisfying heft to every bite.

Altogether, it’s sturdy enough to slice thinly for sandwiches, and still soft enough to cut into thick slabs for dunking into soups, or simply eating plain. Truth be told, I ate roughly 75% of this particular loaf untoasted and unadorned, aside from the thinnest glaze of vegan butter smeared on top.

Rave-Worthy Results

I’m terminally intolerant of breathless hyperbole, deliberately honing my praise to a more reasonable tenor, but this one is hard to be modest about. Of all the loaves I’ve made, this is honestly one of my top five favorites, at least. Maybe even top three, but I don’t want to hurt anyone’s feelings. It’s just as easy to whip up as any other humble sandwich bread, while having nuanced, complex flavor that you’d think could only come from a 24- or 36-hour ferment.

Better Living Through Baking

Make your New Year’s resolution to bake more bread from scratch. It’s a tangible, achievable goal with myriad benefits for health, sustainability, frugality, and honestly, happiness. Even on my worst days, a slice of warm farro bread has never failed to buoy my spirits.

Continue reading “In a Loaf Far, Farro Away” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments

Emmer-gence

“Emmer” may not ring a bell, but I have a feeling you know more about it than you think. Just flip its name tag over to the better known moniker of farro, and it’s like we’re talking about a whole different grain. Yes, misunderstandings about the title abound, so it’s long overdue that we set the record straight. Emmer is an ancient grain that deserves a spot on every modern table.

In a Land Far, Farro Away

What’s truly wild is how few people understand what exactly farro is. Still on the fringes of mainstream grocery stores, granted, it’s not at the top of the average eater’s grocery list. Farro became trendy in the US sometime around the 90s and 00s, alongside the boom of Italian imports like balsamic vinegar and olive oil that didn’t taste like rancid gasoline. However, what makes things more confusing is that no one grain is defined as farro. Rather, there are three types of farro:

  • Farro grande; spelt
  • Farro piccolo; einkorn
  • Farro medio; emmer

Emmer is the grain most commonly referred to as farro, when no other qualifiers can be found. Farro wheat, which is also classified as durum wheat, is defined by the way it grows, with two rows of grain on opposite sides of a single stalk.

Conveniently, Grand Teton Ancient Grains sells all three types, so you can see (and taste) the difference for yourself!

Emmer Through the Ages

Botanical semantics out of the way, emmer is one of the preeminent whole grains. Known as “Mother Wheat,” it was one of the first grains to be domesticated in the Near East over 10,000 years ago. A staple crop in ancient Israel and Egypt, it spread to Italy following the Roman invasion around 50 BCE, where it took root in the culture and remains a top crop to this day. The rest of Europe developed a taste for this high-protein whole grain as well, especially when it comes to bread making in Germany and Switzerland. It’s also a crucial ingredient in Ethiopia, where it’s enjoyed primarily as a hot porridge.

Emmer Is Good Eats

Flavor always comes first in my kitchen, which is why emmer has become a fast favorite around here, too. Nutty and complex, there’s a subtle taste that reminds me of fresh almonds when cooked, adding a gently sweet finish that tastes both honeyed and malted. Chewy and robust, the whole wheat berry stands up well to long-simmered soups and stews, never falling apart under pressure. That also makes it an excellent addition to salads, both hot and cold, and keeps beautifully for meal prep and travel. When ground into flour, it makes silky smooth batters, though it can create denser breads due to a lesser gluten content, compared to modern wheat varieties.

Nutritional Benefits for People and the Planet

Prized for its ability to thrive in poor soils and harsh climates, emmer is beloved by farmers as a sustainable superstar. It generally needs fewer chemical inputs like fertilizers and pesticides, and is more drought-tolerant than modern wheat. As beneficial to the planet as the people that eat it, consumers can reap the rewards of many trace minerals in every serving, including iron, zinc, magnesium, and niacin. It’s high in protein and fiber, making it a satisfying foundation to any meal. Being that it is a form of wheat, however, it is not gluten-free, and not appropriate for those with celiac disease. Some who are merely intolerant report better digestibility, since it has less gluten than conventional wheat varieties.

Emmer Everyday, in All the Ways

Is there anything that emmer can’t do? Found across cultures and continents, whole and ground, there’s always a place for it at the table.

  • Soups and stews: Perhaps best known in Tuscan zuppa di farro, these sturdy whole grains are the ideal swap for pasta in any minestrone, Italian wedding soup, cacio e pepe, and so much more.
  • Risotto: As a modern twist to the traditional rice dish, farrotto is just plain fun to say. Some renditions favor cracked or pearled emmer for their faster cooking times, and/or soak them in advance to help expedite the process.
  • Salads and pilafs: Served hot, at room temperature, or fully chilled, emmer won’t let you down at dinnertime. Pair it with hearty roasted vegetables or delicate leafy greens and fresh herbs
  • Breads: In India, the flour is known as khapli wheat and is favored for making whole grain roti, dosa, and paratha. Aish baladi, a flatbread very similar to pita, is an core Egyptian delicacy, frequently stuffed or torn into piece for dipping. European loaves often combine it with a sourdough starter for greater loft and nuanced flavor.
  • Sweets: Treats like cookies, pie dough, muffins, cakes, pancakes, and more can all benefit from an emmer underpinning. Dense like most whole wheat flours, it adds heft and a hearty bite, balanced nicely by sugar, and especially the addition of spice.
  • Porridge and hot cereal: Cooked either whole or coarsely ground, emmer makes an excellent breakfast meal. Depending on your preferences, it can be served with savory additions like chickpeas and za’atar, or sweet finishes like fresh berries and maple syrup.
  • Beer and spirits: Though a bit tricky to find in the US, emmer beer has been a brewer’s best friend for millennia. Emmer beer was once one of the healthiest ways to hydrate, before the days of clean water and further filtration. Some distillers take it a step further to make emmer whiskey, though the rarity of those bottles drives a considerable price tag. 

Other notable traditional dishes that defy easy categorization include torta a farro, a savory cake reminiscent of a frittata, arancini di farro, favoring emmer in the typical deep-fried rice ball, and adjar pilaf, an Armenian side dish with mushrooms and onions.

Cooking Tips and Tricks

Whole emmer wheat berries are incredibly forgiving when it comes to cooking. Treat them like beans for the best results; use plenty of water, simmer low and slow, and drain off the excess. Of course, you can always speed things up with a little help from your trusty pressure cooker.

  • On the stove top, start by rinsing 1 cup of whole emmer wheat berries under cold water to remove any dust or debris. Then, place them in a pot with about 3 cups of water and a pinch of salt. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover the pot and let it cook for 45 – 60 minutes, or until the grains are tender but still chewy. If you’re using pearled emmer, the cooking time may be closer to 25 – 30 minutes. Once cooked, drain any excess liquid and fluff the grains with a fork.
  • In a pressure cooker, combine 1 cup of rinsed emmer wheat berries with 2 1/2 cups of water and a pinch of salt. Seal the lid and cook on high pressure for 20 – 25 minutes (or 12 – 15 minutes for pearled). Allow the pressure to release naturally for 10 minutes, then release any remaining pressure manually. Drain any excess liquid if needed, and the grains are ready to use.

Enjoy your emmer right away while still hot, or let cool completely, then store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 5 – 7 days. Consider keeping it in the freezer for long-term storage, up to 6 months, if you’d rather make bigger batches at a time.

Kasha is Out, Emmer is In

With Hanukkah looming right around the corner, Jewish comfort food has been top of mind. Kasha varnishkes aren’t making headlines like latkes and brisket, though they’re just as welcome at the holiday feast as they are on the average, everyday dinner table. “Kasha” means buckwheat and “varnishkes” refers to noodles, typically bow-tie shaped pasta, AKA farfalle in this case, fully explaining the simplicity and universal appeal of the dish. Bolstered by caramelized onions, the earthy whole grains add a comforting weight to al dente semolina pasta. It’s a beloved comfort food of Eastern European Jews through the generations. My unconventional suggestion is to drop the bitter buckwheat in favor of subtly sweet emmer berries.

Emmer Varnishkes are my contribution to the culinary canon. While buckwheat has its own old world charm, it tends to skew more bitter, grassy, and sometimes as earthy as a whole barnyard. The mild sweetness of emmer melds effortlessly with the richness of the dish, bringing out the complex chestnut and freshly popped popcorn notes. The key is to toast the emmer before simmering lightly salted stock, enhancing the naturally nutty flavor locked within. Then, perfectly befitting of the holiday, instead of schmaltz, olive oil honors the Hanukkah miracle, all while adding a peppery brightness.

Far-Out Emmer

If you’re a fan of farro, guess what? You’re already on board with emmer. Next time you see “farro” on a menu or in a recipe, you’ll know the story runs deeper than a trendy grain bowl. Emmer has nourished civilizations for thousands of years, and it’s still feeding our curiosity, and our appetites, today. Whether simmering in a soup pot, baked into bread, or starring in your next grain salad, there’s still so much more to discover with this ancient grain.

Continue reading “Emmer-gence” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)13 Comments

Einkorn to be Wild

Baking with einkorn flour for the first time was a defining moment for me. Part of a larger cookbook photography project, the recipe didn’t stand out as anything particularly noteworthy from the text. Just another simple sandwich bread, differentiated only by this unusual ingredient. Somehow, from that otherwise unremarkable base rose the most glorious golden loaf. Taking on the air of rich, pillowy brioche, without a single egg or pat of butter in sight, I had clearly underestimated this enigmatic ancient grain.

That first loaf lit the spark, but it wasn’t until I began working with Grand Teton Ancient Grains that the flame truly caught. Their einkorn flour, freshly milled and impossibly fragrant, felt alive in a way no bagged flour ever had before. It brought a new depth to every bake, proof that sourcing matters just as much as technique. Going one step further, the availability of whole einkorn berries opened the door to all endless cooking possibilities, sparking my curiosity about this heirloom superfood anew.

What Is Einkorn?

Modern wheat is a newborn baby compared to einkorn. The true, original wheat, einkorn (Triticum monococcum) was first domesticated somewhere between 10,000 – 12,000 years ago in the Fertile Crescent, and it hasn’t changed much since. It’s never been hybridized, never subjected to the industrial tinkering that transformed conventional wheat into the high-yield, high-gluten machine it is today.

The word itself means “single grain,” named for the fact that each spikelet of the plant contains only one grain, rather than the multiple grains found in modern wheat. Small, hardy, and often overlooked, einkorn has persisted through millennia not because of its efficiency, but because of its hardiness, depth of flavor, digestibility, and nutrient-rich profile.

How Is Einkorn Different From Modern Wheat?

Einkorn stands apart in more ways than one. It contains a simpler gluten structure, with fewer chromosomes; 14, compared to modern wheat’s 42. That might sound like a trivia fact better suited for scientists and serious food nerds, but it has real-life implications for how einkorn behaves and how our bodies respond to it.

  • Gluten content: Einkorn does contain gluten, so it’s not safe for those with celiac disease. However, many individuals with non-celiac gluten sensitivities report fewer digestive issues with einkorn than with modern wheat.
  • Absorption: Einkorn has more protein than modern wheat, but less of the type of gluten that gives bread that stretchy, elastic structure. That means softer, more delicate textures in baked goods, perfect for delicate cakes and pastries, but also a steeper learning curve if you’re trying to get a lofty sourdough loaf.
  • Nutrient profile: Einkorn is rich in lutein, zinc, iron, thiamin (B1), and beta-carotene, which is what gives the grain and the resulting flour its beautiful flaxen hue. It’s also notably high in tocotrienols, a form of vitamin E with antioxidant properties. The flour is never bleached or bromated, and when sourced from Grand Teton Ancient Grains, it’s always 100% organic and glyphosate-free.

What Does Einkorn Taste Like?

Subtle yet distinct, einkorn has a sweet, malty, cereal flavor with undertones of honey and toasted almonds. It brings a buttery richness to anything it touches, without ever overwhelming the other ingredients in a dish.

I’ve described it before as the “vanilla bean” of whole grains, not because it tastes like vanilla, but because once you’ve experienced it, it’s hard to bake without it, back to the bland neutrality of the norm. Einkorn makes pancakes fluffier, cookies softer, and waffles more voluptuous. Even a basic biscuit takes on a complexity that feels almost undeserved for something so common.

How Is Einkorn Used?

Einkorn is still considered a specialty ingredient, rarely in mainstream markets but available in abundance online. Flour is only the start.

  • Whole Einkorn berries: The intact grain, with its tough outer husk removed, is ideal for cooking like brown rice. Use it in soups, salads, grain bowls, stuffing, risotto, hot porridge, and so much more. Whole berries can also be freshly milled at home for the most flavorful flour possible.
  • Einkorn flour: Available in both whole grain and all-purpose versions. The whole grain flour includes the bran and germ for maximum nutrition and a rich, nutty taste, while the all-purpose version is sifted for a lighter, more delicate texture. Both are excellent for everything from bread and cookies to pancakes and pasta.
  • Rolled einkorn (flakes): Similar to rolled oats, these cook quickly and are perfect for warm cereals, homemade granola, or baked goods.
  • Puffed einkorn: Airy, crunchy, and lightly toasted, puffed einkorn is often used in cereals, snack bars, or just as a crispy topping for yogurt or smoothie bowls.
  • Sprouted einkorn: Soaking and sprouting the whole berries unlocks an entirely different experience. Sprouted einkorn is easier to digest, with increased bioavailability of nutrients and a slightly sweet, earthy flavor. Use sprouts in salads, sandwiches, or smoothies, or dry and grind them into sprouted flour for even more nutrient-dense baking.
  • Einkorn bran: When the grain is milled and sifted, the outer bran layer is sometimes sold separately. It’s high in fiber and adds a hearty texture and nutrition boost to muffins, breads, and cereals.

Baking with Einkorn Flour: A Different Kind of Dough

All-purpose einkorn can generally be used as a plug-and-play substitute for conventional white all-purpose flour in many baked goods, namely quick breads, muffins, pancakes, waffles, cookies, biscuits, and more. To get the best results when making more demanding recipes like yeast breads and bagels, pastas, and crackers, there are a few quirks to keep in mind:

  1. Hydration: Einkorn flour absorbs less water than modern wheat flour. You may need to reduce the liquid by 25% of the original recipe. It also absorbs liquid more slowly, which is why it may seem stickier than usual at first, before resting. Do not try to compensate by adding more flour instead, as this will just create a dense, disappointing crumb.
  2. Mixing time: No-knead bread is often best suited for einkorn flour. If making a conventional loaf, knead much less than you typically would, and skip the stand mixer. Just 5 minutes of kneading by hand is enough to develop the gluten.
  3. Rising: Because einkorn has a much weaker gluten structure than modern wheat, it’s best to under-proof the dough, allowing it to rise only about 50%. If you let it fully double in size, the dough will likely collapse in the oven, unable to support the gas bubbles during baking.

If you’re just starting out, try replacing a quarter to half of the flour in a trusted recipe with einkorn, and see how it behaves. Then, work your way up as you get more comfortable.

Cooking Whole Einkorn Berries

Whole einkorn berries are plump, chewy, and deeply satisfying in any dish. They cook more quickly than hard wheat berries, even without soaking in advance.

  • Stove Top: Combine 1 cup einkorn berries with 3 cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 25 – 30 minutes, until tender but still al dente. Drain off any excess water
  • Pressure Cooker: Use 1 cup einkorn berries with 2 1/2 cups water. Seal and cook soaked berries on high pressure for 10 minutes. Let the pressure release naturally, and drain any remaining water.

Try it in a warm grain bowl with roasted root vegetables and tahini sauce, or toss it into soups in place of barley or pasta for an earthy, warming boost.

To save cooked einkorn berries for later, cool completely before transferring to an airtight container, which will keep in the fridge for up to 1 week, or in the freezer for up to 6 months. Don’t forget to label it clearly with the contents and date, especially for long term storage!

Ancient Nutrition, Modern Fuel

Everyone’s so crazed about protein these days, but there’s no need to resort to tasteless processed foods; einkorn has it covered. For every 100 grams of whole grain flour, einkorn contains about 14 – 18 grams of protein, which is noticeably higher than standard modern wheat. It also provides around 9 grams of fiber, and roughly 70 grams of complex carbohydrates, making it both filling and beneficial for stabilizing blood sugar. The fat content is modest, about 2.5 grams, from naturally occurring unsaturated fats in the germ.

Where it really shines, though, is in its micronutrient profile. Einkorn offers significantly more iron, zinc, magnesium, and vitamin B6 than conventional wheat, along with exceptionally high levels of lutein (up to 200% more than modern varieties) and beta-carotene, lending it that unmistakable golden color. For an instant upgrade to your whole grain pantry, einkorn delivers on all fronts.

Thankful for Einkorn: A Stuffing Worth Celebrating

When the holiday table calls for comfort, nostalgia, and something a little extra special, whole einkorn berries rise to the occasion. Used in place of the usual wild rice, einkorn makes a surprisingly hearty and flavorful base for stuffing, or dressing, depending on your preferred parlance. Their naturally nutty flavor and chewy texture stand up beautifully to savory herbs, caramelized onions, mushrooms, and toasted pecans, creating a side dish that feels both familiar and entirely new.

When the Thanksgiving table is crowned with a dish of einkorn stuffing, everything else seems to fall into place. The whole berries, plump and golden, glisten between flecks of sage, sweet-tart pomegranate arils, and tender bites of celery and carrot. Each spoonful offers a gentle chew, a pleasant resistance that gives way to buttery richness and herbaceous depth. Far from a bland carbohydrate filler, einkorn takes center stage, earthy, warming, and satisfying in the most elemental way.

The Past, Present, and Future of Einkorn

Einkorn is wheat in its truest form, as it was always meant to be. Before industrialization stripped it down to a hollow shell of its previous glory, einkorn was the reason that humans fell in love with wheat in the first place. It’s a story that’s been thousands of years in the making, and can continue in your kitchen today. Don’t miss the opportunity to nurture this heirloom staple in the same way it can sustain you. I’ll be hard to pick up that vapid conventional all-purpose flour once you’ve tasted the difference.

Continue reading “Einkorn to be Wild” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)13 Comments

Correctly Spelt

After graduating from basic whole wheat flour in the early days of my baking career, spelt was next on the list of crunchy-granola staples. Spelt, of course, is simply another species of wheat, though I didn’t fully grasp that at the time. I even paraded out a “wheat-free” version of my famous Root Beer Float Cupcakes, which very clearly and prominently use spelt flour for the bulk of the batter. A swing and a miss, 18 year-old self. Now older, wiser, better at researching essential facts, and inspired by the unbeatable quality of Grand Teton Ancient Grains, it’s about time we talk about how to correctly consider spelt.

What Is Spelt, After All?

Spelt is an ancient variety of wheat that dates back at least 5,000 to 8,000 years, originally cultivated in parts of present-day Iran and southeastern Europe. It eventually made its way into Germanic and Celtic diets, becoming a staple crop throughout Central Europe, where it’s still beloved and widely used. While it fell out of favor with the industrialized agriculture boom, thanks to modern wheat’s enormous yields and pest resistance, spelt has never gone away. It’s endured like a family heirloom in traditional farming circles, and recently, begun to make a comeback in the modern kitchen.

How is Spelt Different From Modern Wheat?

Spelt is often lumped in with modern wheat, and while it is related, spelt is genetically distinct. It has a tougher outer hull, a different gluten structure, and a far richer, more diverse nutrient profile.

Modern wheat has been bred for high-gluten, high-yield performance in industrial baking to make fluffy sandwich bread and ultra-white cake flour possible. In contrast, spelt remains largely unhybridized, preserving many of its original characteristics. That means more flavor, more nutrition, and for some folks, easier digestion. While it’s not gluten-free, many people with wheat sensitivities (not celiac disease) report better tolerance for eating spelt.

What Does Spelt Taste Like?

Flavor-wise, spelt is in a league of its own. It has a subtle, earthy sweetness and a soft nuttiness. Cooked as a whole grain, it has a satisfyingly chewy bite, similar to barley, but with a bit more delicacy and a mellow, toasty undertone. I can’t help but think of cozy autumn soups or grain salad whenever I cook up a fresh pot.

When ground into flour, spelt produces a golden, soft meal that works beautifully in everything from rustic sourdough loaves to hearty cookies and wholesome muffins. It has a slightly lower gluten strength than modern wheat, which gives baked goods a tender but often more dense crumb. It’s less elastic but more flavorful, so you’ll often see it cut with bread flour or all-purpose flour to achieve a lighter loaf or dessert.

How is Spelt Used?

Spelt is wildly versatile, well beyond the flour most people are accustomed to seeing on grocery store shelves. It can slide right into nearly any recipe that calls for whole wheat. Here’s a breakdown of the most common forms:

  • Whole berries: The entire grain, with its tough outer husk removed. Great for cooking like rice or barley, in grain bowls, soups, and salads. In Europe, its often used as the base of plant-based milk alternatives as well, either by itself or blended with other whole grains.
  • Spelt flour: A baker’s best friend, this flour can be used in breads (its especially popular in sourdough), muffins, pancakes, pastas, and cookies. It can be swapped in for whole wheat flour in most recipes, though it’s best not to go full 100% in place of white all-purpose flour, especially in more delicate baked goods like cakes and pastries.
  • Rolled spelt (spelt flakes): Much like rolled oats, this form cooks quickly and is great for breakfast porridge, granola, or baking applications.
  • Puffed spelt: A light, crunchy form often used in cereals, granola, and snack bars. It’s more mild in flavor which may make it an easier sell for children or picky eaters.
  • Spelt bran: In refining the grain, the outer layer (the hull) is sometimes removed and sold separately. It’s particularly high in fiber and often added to baked goods for a nutritional boost.

Spelt, The Nutritional Powerhouse

Spelt has a lot going for it nutritionally. It contains more protein than standard wheat and it brings a generous dose of fiber to the table. It’s also rich in key minerals like manganese, phosphorus, magnesium, zinc, and iron. Plus, it boasts a solid profile of B vitamins, including niacin (B3), riboflavin (B2), and thiamin (B1), all crucial for energy metabolism and nervous system health.

What really sets spelt apart is its unique combination of fiber and resistant starches, which feed beneficial gut bacteria and support digestion. Studies have suggested that it’s beneficial for supporting and repairing the microbiome, which can have huge impacts on overall health. Again, it’s not gluten-free, but anecdotal evidence (and a few small studies) suggest that spelt may be easier on sensitive stomachs than modern wheat, AKA refined white flour.

Cooking With Whole Spelt Berries

Whole spelt berries are easy to cook and hard to mess up. They hold their shape, remaining al dente even after a hard boil, and they soak in any seasonings you throw at them like culinary chameleons.

  • Soak first (optional but recommended): Soaking the grains overnight or for at least 6 – 8 hours shortens the cooking time and may improve digestibility. Just cover them with plenty of water, let them sit, and drain and rinse thoroughly before cooking.
  • Stove top method: Combine 1 cup of whole spelt berries with 3 cups of water. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover, and let cook for 40 – 60 minutes if starting from dry, or 30 – 50 minutes if soaked. You’re looking for plump, chewy grains with no crunch in the center. Drain any excess water.
  • Pressure cooker method: Use 2 1/2 cups of water per cup of grains. Cook soaked spelt for about 15 – 20 minutes on high pressure; unsoaked grains will need closer to 30 – 35 minutes. Allow for a natural release and drain well.

Souper Spelt

As previously mentioned, I can’t think of spelt without imagining warm, hearty autumnal vegetables. Colored in deep reds, oranges, and amber hues, the tawny brown of spelt fits with that fall harvest like it was always meant to be. As temperatures drop, my thoughts also turn to cozy soups and stews, which is why the very first thing I did with my freshly cooked spelt berries was turn them into this seasonal minestrone. They take the place of semolina pasta for a more flavorful and nutritious brew, paired with tender parsnips, squash, potatoes, and white beans to make a deeply satisfying one-bowl meal.

Infinitely adaptable, as all good soups are, you can trade the veggies for anything at the market, and anything your heart desires. Starchy vegetables like kabocha, delicata squash, turnips, rutabaga, and even radishes are all good choices when you want to switch things up. If you’re tired of kale, try shredded cabbage or shaved Brussels sprouts. All beans are beautiful, so while I tend to favor a more delicate white bean in this application, genuinely any legume would be welcome in this pot.

Clearly Spelt Out

Spelt might not be the trendiest grain on the shelf but it’s clearly stood the test of time to earn its keep. With deep historical roots, rich flavor, and real nutritional value, spelt is the ancient grain that’s as relevant today as it was millennia ago. Whether you’re baking bread, stirring up porridge, or just exploring new grains in your kitchen, spelt is well worth a spot in your pantry. Once you get a taste, you’ll want it around all the time.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

The Khorasan Conundrum

You can separate the wheat from the chaff, but can you separate Khorasan from wheat? Wheat is all too often described as a single, homogeneous crop, flattened down to its most basic definition. It’s no wonder ancient grains are still so misunderstood. This most essential cereal is the umbrella term for a wide, diverse array of unique whole grains. Durum wheat may ring a bell, and bakers can probably tell the difference between hard red winter, hard red spring, soft red winter wheat. Khorasan, however, is also a type of wheat, but is largely overlooked, if not entirely unheard of.

It’s time we brought Khorasan back in to the spotlight as the superstar superfood it’s always been.

What is Khorasan and Where Did It Come From?

To be perfectly honest, up until Grand Teton Ancient Grains reached out to me and introduced me to this great grain, I was equally ignorant. Khorasan makes up a tiny fraction of wheat production globally, since modern varieties have been hybridized to be much more resistant to pests, have higher yields, and lower processing costs. That selective breeding has also nutritionally crippled most wheat on the market, but we’ll talk more about that in a bit.

Khorasan is named for the Khorasan region of Persia, encompassing parts of modern-day Iran, Afghanistan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, and Uzbekistan. It’s believed to have originated roughly 4,000 to 6,000 years ago from this Fertile Crescent. Grains resembling Khorasan have been found in Egyptian tombs, sometimes giving rise to the romantic moniker of “King Tut’s Wheat.” It didn’t reach the US until the 1940 following World War II.

So How Is Khorasan Related To Kamut®?

Kamut®, oh Kamut®, as if Americans weren’t already confused about their varieties of wheat. Kamut® is simply the trademarked brand name for Khorasan, as sold by one single company, Kamut® International. It’s the difference of bandage vs. BandAid® or copy machine vs. Xerox®, which is to say, mostly marketing and inflated costs.

What Does Khorasan Taste Like?

Two or three times larger than modern, mass produced wheat, these oblong, tawny brown kernels plump when you cook them, assuming a softer, rounder shape, almost like jumbo brown rice. Comparable to the subtle earthiness of spelt or farro, but with an added layer of buttery sweetness, Khorasan carries a natural nutty, toasted warmth and complexity. When cooked, especially as a whole grain, it reveals delicate caramel or honey-like undertones.

Cooked as a whole grain, it has a pleasantly chewy, plump bite, similar to barley but smoother and less gummy. Each kernel holds its shape well after cooking, offering a satisfying toothiness that makes it ideal for grain salads, pilafs, and soups. When ground into flour, Khorasan produces a soft, golden meal that yields tender baked goods with a slightly denser crumb than all-purpose flour. The gluten in Khorasan is less elastic than in modern wheat, which means bread made solely from Khorasan flour tends to be denser, but with a wonderful moistness and rich flavor.

How is Khorasan Used?

Besides eating the whole grain much like you would rice for pilafs, salads, risotto, and more, Khorasan is an incredibly versatile ingredient to use for a wide range of different applications.

  • Ground into flour: Milled into a soft, fine flour with a golden hue, Khorasan flour is a baker’s delight. It can be stone-ground or roller-milled, depending on the desired texture and application. The most popular uses are breads (particularly sourdough), pastas, crackers, cookies, and cakes.
  • Puffed: Using a high-heat, high-pressure machine (similar to the process used for puffed rice or puffed millet) causes the moisture in the grain to rapidly expand, “popping” the kernel into a fluffy yet crisp cereal.
  • Rolled or flaked: Steamed and flattened like rolled oats, rolled Khorasan wheat cooks more quickly and is easier to digest than whole berries. It’s ideal for making hot cereal, granola, and baking, anywhere you’d otherwise use oatmeal.
  • Sprouted: Soaked and allowed to germinate, the whole grain can be sprouted like seeds and legumes. They can be eaten fresh in salads and stir fries or dried and milled for inclusion in breads.

Khorasan, The Nutritional Breadwinner

Nutritionally dense, Khorasan is unique from other strains of wheat due to its impressive protein content, which is typically 14 – 17% (20 – 40% more than modern wheat). It also contains a small but meaningful amount of healthy fats, including essential fatty acids, and a moderate dose of dietary fiber to support digestion. On the micronutrient front, it lays claim to healthy amounts of magnesium, zinc, and selenium. Iron is also present in higher levels than in modern wheat, along with B vitamins like niacin (B3) and thiamin (B1).

Khorasan is not gluten-free, as it’s still a strain of wheat, though there’s anecdotal evidence that it may be easier for some with wheat sensitivities to digest. People with celiac disease should still sit this one out, sadly.

Cooking with Khorasan

If you find yourself with a generous bag of whole Khorasan berries from Grand Teton Ancient Grains, you don’t need a grain mill to get cooking. These whole grains have become a fast favorite for me because they’re almost impossible to overcook.

  • Soak Khorasan for 6 to 12 hours, and ideally overnight, to not only reduce the cooking time but also improve their digestibility. Simply cover the grains with a few inches of cool water in a bowl and let them sit at room temperature. Once soaked, drain and rinse the grains before cooking. If you choose not to soak, just be prepared to cook the grain longer to achieve the same tender texture.

  • For stove top cooking, combine 1 cup of dried Khorasan wheat with about 3 cups of water in a medium saucepan. Bring the liquid to a boil, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, cover loosely, and let it cook. If the grains were soaked, they’ll typically be done in 30 to 40 minutes; unsoaked grains usually take 50 to 60 minutes. When done, they should be plump, tender, and pleasantly chewy, with no chalky center. Drain any excess liquid.
  • If you prefer a quicker method, Khorasan can be cooked in a pressure cooker. Use about 2 1/2 cups of water per 1 cup of grains. For unsoaked Khorasan, cook on high pressure for 30 to 35 minutes; soaked grains need only 20 to 25 minutes. Allow the pressure to release naturally and drain if needed.

Converting Classic Grain Dishes

The beauty of Khorasan is how effortlessly it can replace boring, bland, mushy long grain white rice. Don’t get me wrong, the latter still has its place in my pantry, but it’s all too often used in places where it just doesn’t belong. The beloved Broccoli Cheese Casserole is an obvious example. As a southern staple, it’s the easiest way to get a green vegetable into picky kids, since it’s mostly made of cheese and starch.

I love the idea, but the execution leaves a lot to be desired. Cooked into oblivion, you don’t need to chew the end results. Khorasan is the solution to making a far more satisfying meal, with a real toothsome bite, along with more fiber to make it satiating beyond its soul-soothing, comforting taste.

My version naturally eschews the unctuous dairy foundation for a simple cheesy cashew sauce. Fresh broccoli, tossed right into the pan without any fussy blanching, stays tender-crisp instead of being cooked to death. This is the kind of dish you can bring to a potluck and watch disappear, before you can even utter the words “healthy” or “vegan.” Really, who needs the disclaimer in the first place? It’s simply delicious, feeding the heart, body, and planet all in one fell swoop.

Continue reading “The Khorasan Conundrum” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments