Of crisps, cobblers, crumbles, and pies, there’s a dizzying array of permutations, but none quite so badly snubbed as sonkers. Spellcheck thinks it’s a typo. Even the brown betty, buckle, grunt, slump, and pan dowdy get more respect. It’s no mystery why no one talks about sonkers in the same reverential tone, if at all: They’re ugly. The old fashioned sonker simply can’t compete in this visually-oriented age, which is a terrible shame for the heritage and flavor it puts at risk of going extinct.

What’s A Sonker?

There’s no official consensus on what absolutely defines a sonker, but in my eyes, it’s a soupy fruit dessert that’s topped with a baked pancake batter. Instead of pastry, biscuits, streusel, or breadcrumbs, you get a fluffy batter crowning berries, apples, stone fruit, or even sweet potatoes with enough liquid to call it a sauce. It can only be served with a spoon and must be placed in a bowl, unless you’re set on wearing your dessert, too.

Sonkers come from North Carolina, where they’re found almost exclusively. Legend has it that the name came about as a descriptor for how the topping tends to sink into the fruit, and over time, “sinker” turned into “sonker.” Some argue that it comes from the region’s Scottish settlers who believed the dessert topping looked like a grassy knoll, or a bundle of hay or straw, that could be used as a seat or saddle, AKA a sonker in the native dialect. Quite frankly, I’m not seeing it, but who am I to argue with historians?

Do The Dip

Nothing beats warm, juicy baked fruit with a scoop of ice cream melting on top. Or perhaps, some softly whipped cream slowly sinking into the surface? Well, sonkers get none of that frippery. Instead, the typical pairing is a milk dip. Don’t be fooled by the title because there’s no dipping involved. A milk dip is almost like an eggless crème anglaise, or a pourable pudding. A generous drizzle adds nothing to the visual appeal, and may in fact make it even less attractive, but trust me, you want to do the dip.

Sink Your Teeth Into This Sonker

Inspired by some canned pineapple and excess li hing, I knew what I had to do. As a symbol of southern hospitality, the pineapple was a perfect base to pay homage to its roots. Canned in its own juices, you get enough sweetness to dial the sugar way down, and plenty of flavorful liquid already built in. Using coconut milk for the dip is a natural extension of the tropical taste, bringing all the richness you need to finish a full pan with ease.

Though best shared with a group, be sure to warn others to perhaps put away their camera phones, and not to wear white if partaking. I won’t be held responsible for any errant drips and spills that may result.

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Yield: Makes 8 - 10 Servings

Pineapple Li Hing Sonker

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Try a simple sonker, which features baked pancake batter as a topping! Using pineapple canned in its own juices, you get lots natural sweetness and plenty of flavorful liquid already built in. Coconut milk makes the dip a perfect tropical pairing, bringing all the richness you need to finish a full pan with ease.

Prep Time 5 minutes

Cook Time 1 hour 10 minutes

Total Time 5 minutes

Ingredients

Pineapple Filling:

• 2 (20-Ounce) Cans Pineapple Chunks in Juice
• 1/3 Cup Granulated Sugar
• 3 Tablespoons Arrowroot Powder
• 2 Tablespoons Li Hing Powder

Topping:

• 1 1/4 Cups All-Purpose Flour or All-Purpose Gluten-Free Baking Blend
• 2 Tablespoons Granulated Sugar
• 1 1/2 Teaspoons Baking Powder
• 1/2 Teaspoon Baking Soda
• 1/4 Teaspoon Salt
• 2 Tablespoons Granulated Sugar
• 1 Cup Plain Non-Dairy Milk
• 2 Tablespoons Olive Oil

Coconut Milk Dip:

• 1 (13.6-Ounce) Can Full-Fat Coconut Milk
• 1/4 Cup Plain Non-Dairy Milk
• 1/2 Cup Granulated Sugar
• 2 Tablespoons Arrowroot Powder
• 1/4 Teaspoon Salt
• 1 Teaspoon Vanilla Extract

Instructions

1. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. In a 11 x 9-inch baking pan or casserole dish, combine the pineapple with all the juice, sugar, arrowroot, and li hing. Stir well to incorporate, making sure there are no clumps of starch remaining. Bake in the center of the oven for 40 minutes, until filling is bubbling around sides of dish.
   
2. For the topping, combine the flour, sugar baking powder and soda, and salt in a medium bowl. Add the non-dairy milk and oil, whisking just to combine. Once the fruit is ready, dollop spoonfuls of the batter on top, gently spreading to cover the top. The edges may be exposed, and there may be holes in the middle; don't worry about making it perfect.
   
3. Return the dish to the oven and bake for an additional 25 - 30 minutes, until the topping is golden brown.
   
4. Meanwhile, prepare the coconut milk dip by whisking the coconut milk, non-dairy milk, sugar, arrowroot, and salt together in a medium saucepan. Set over medium heat and bring to the brink of a boil. Turn off the stove, whisk in the vanilla, and let cool. Whisk periodically to prevent a skin from forming on the surface. Once cool, transfer to a pitcher.
   
5. Serve the warm sonker in bowls with coconut milk drizzled on top, as desired.

Recommended Products

Please note that some of the links above are affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you decide to make a purchase after clicking through the link. I have experience with all of these companies and I recommend them because they are helpful and useful, not because of the small commissions I make if you decide to buy something through my links.

• 
  Wholesome, Organic Cane Sugar, 4 lbs (1.81 kg)
• 
  Bob's Red Mill, 1 to 1 Baking Flour, Gluten Free, 22 oz (624 g)
• 
  Bob's Red Mill, Arrowroot Starch/Flour, Gluten Free, 16 oz (454 g)

Nutrition Information:

Yield:

10

Serving Size:

1
Amount Per Serving: Calories: 256Total Fat: 8gSaturated Fat: 5gTrans Fat: 0gUnsaturated Fat: 3gCholesterol: 2mgSodium: 275mgCarbohydrates: 43gFiber: 1gSugar: 30gProtein: 3g

All nutritional information presented within this site are intended for informational purposes only. I am not a certified nutritionist and any nutritional information on BitterSweetBlog.com should only be used as a general guideline. This information is provided as a courtesy and there is no guarantee that the information will be completely accurate. Even though I try to provide accurate nutritional information to the best of my ability, these figures should still be considered estimations.