Day Of The Tentacle

Described by some as the Japanese version of Thanksgiving and Halloween combined, Obon is the midsummer celebration of life, remembering those who have passed, and to show gratitude for the everyday gifts often taken for granted. While each region may celebrate Obon in its own distinctive way, one thing remains constant: the integral role of food in fostering a sense of togetherness and community.

At the heart of Obon festivities, takoyaki emerges as a culinary delight that encapsulates the spirit of this joyous occasion. Otherwise known as “octopus balls,” takoyaki is a unique creation that tantalizes taste buds with its savory and crispy exterior, revealing a warm and tender surprise within. The combination of flavors and textures makes it a true gastronomic delight and an essential part of the Obon experience.

Origin Of Takoyaki

It’s hard to imagine a Japanese festival without revelers walking the streets with hands full of takoyaki skewers, but it’s a relatively recent innovation. Takoyaki as we know it dates back to Osaka in the 1930s, where it originated as a twist on akashiyaki, an egg-rich dumpling stuffed with chopped octopus. With time, more mix-ins joined the batter, such as konjac, chopped scallions, red pickled ginger, tempura flakes, all manner of seafood, and in more modern renditions, even chunks of cheese.

Takoyaki owes its distinctive taste and texture to its key ingredient, octopus, which is finely chopped and mixed with a batter made of flour, eggs, and dashi broth. Cooked in specially designed takoyaki pans with half-spherical molds, these bite-sized morsels emerge from the hot iron as perfectly golden spheres, creating an ideal contrast of crispy outside and soft yet chewy interior.

How to Make Vegan Takoyaki

If you’re sitting there thinking, “well, that doesn’t sound very vegan-friendly,” you’re right! It may seem like quite a task to remove all the animal products, but it’s a lot easier than you’d think. Shirataki noodles, made from glucomannan, which is fiber that comes from the konjac plant, has a unique bouncy texture that mimics the mouthfeel of cooked octopus surprisingly well. Black salt adds an eggy flavor to the batter, while miso incorporates a subtle umami taste.

For the sake of simplicity, sweet American BBQ sauce is a close dupe for Japanese takoyaki sauce, and a drizzle of creamy mayo is always invited to the party. Each bite encapsulates a harmonious medley of flavors, showcasing the savory batter and fillings, the sweet tanginess of the sauce, and the rich indulgence of the mayo.

Making Takoyaki at Home

There are special takoyaki pans you can buy, made for cooking over a hot grill or open fire, or more user-friendly electric models made for plug-and-play convenience. What I find striking is that few people make the connection between takoyaki and Danish aebleskiver pans. Designed precisely for making round griddled pancakes, they’re ideal for takoyaki, too.

Takoyaki holds a special place in the hearts of those who partake in Obon celebrations. As families and communities gather to honor their loved ones, the act of sharing takoyaki becomes a bonding experience, fostering a sense of togetherness and continuity. The sizzling of the batter as it hits hot takoyaki pans is part of the background music that brings the scene to life, like something out of a movie, but better. Food allows us to recreate that feeling anywhere in the world, which is what makes takoyaki so special, whether you can celebrate Obon in person or at home.

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Flat-Out Fabulous

Long before savory oats became the trendy breakfast du jour, poha has been the most important meal of the day for thousands of years.

As a daily oatmeal eater, it takes a lot for me to consider switching teams. Poha was the unexpected jolt of inspiration to break out of the routine for a low risk, high reward payoff.

What is Poha?

Poha is flattened rice, but the word is also shorthand for many of the dishes it creates. There are thin, medium, and thick flakes, producing a range of textures best suited for instant snacks, quick meals, or more time-consuming creations. They all cook more quickly than whole grain rice though, while retaining more vitamins and minerals than standard white rice.

Like Vietnamese broken rice, this unique format isn’t a defect but intentional feature. Modern factories use heavy rollers to flatten the grains just like rolled oats. Traditionally, and still to this day in some small villages, the rice is pounded by hand, earning the alternate description of “beaten rice.”

Chivda is a term that can be used interchangeably depending on the region, although it often refers to a thinner variety, dry-roasted with spices and enjoyed as a crispy snack.

What Does Poha Taste Like?

Very neutral in flavor as you’d expect from plain rice, the real attraction for poha is the texture. Soft, slightly sticky, tender, and easily yielding, it’s easy to eat and beloved by young and old. Thin poha tends to fall apart and become mushy when cooked, which is why it’s more popular when dry roasted. Medium and thick poha can have fluffier, separate grains

Regional Variations

India itself is a huge, diverse area encompassing many unique cultural identities, so it should come as no surprise that poha does as well. These variations are a testament to the versatility of poha, allowing individuals to customize their breakfast experience according to their preferences.

  • In Maharashtra, you’ll find Kanda Poha, where onions play a dominant role in the recipe.
  • Batata Poha, from Gujarat, incorporates potatoes for added substance.
  • In the north, you’ll encounter Indori Poha, which is boldly sweet and sour, tart and tangy, with plenty of heat in each bite.

How To Cook Poha

Though I naturally draw parallels between oatmeal and poha, there are notable differences in the cooking procedure and textural results. Rather than porridge or gruel, poha is dryer, more like pilaf, true to its rice base.

  1. Medium and thick poha needs to be rinsed to remove excess starch that would otherwise make the dish gummy or mushy. Place it in a fine mesh sieve and rinse it under running water for about 10 – 15 seconds. Gently swish the poha with your fingers while rinsing to ensure even coverage.
  2. Transfer the rinsed poha to a large bowl and add water to cover. Soak for 5 minutes to soften, which expedites the cooking process. Drain thoroughly so it doesn’t get waterlogged.
  3. Always stir gently to avoid breaking the flakes. Add your cooking liquid, cover, and simmer for about 5 minutes, until soft and fluffy.

Breakfast All Day

Don’t forget, breakfast is truly a state of mind. Though it’s traditionally enjoyed as a morning meal, there’s nothing stopping you from enjoy poha for lunch or dinner, too. This version, redolent of toasted spices and finished with a bright splash of lime juice, is simple to make yet complex in taste. Basic pantry staples are the foundation that’s easily adapted to taste. Many also enjoy sweet poha, aligned with conventional American hot cereal with cinnamon and maple syrup, so don’t be afraid to experiment. These grains may be flat, but their flavor sure isn’t.

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The Inside Scoop On Umami Ice Cream

Have we reached peak summer yet? Living inside of a proverbial oven, it’s hard to tell where summer ends and all other seasons begin. Temperatures have hit record highs starting in May, carelessly bulldozing right over spring, with no sign of stopping for fall. Most of the US experiences the hottest day of the year in July, but I have a feeling we’ll still be sweating it out for months to come. Want my advice? Dip into a creamy frozen treat to fight fire with ice.

I’m still not done churning after two ice cream cookbooks and scores of bonus recipes. Before you think I’ve run out of ideas and gone back to bland basics, take a closer look. Those aren’t just flecks of vanilla beans you see right below the surface, but tiny particles of finely ground shiitake powder as well.

Mushroom Ice Cream?!

Though typically touted for their uniquely meaty flavor that enhances savory entrees and snacks, there’s so much more shiitake mushrooms are capable of. Using Sugimoto shiitake powder eliminates the more earthy flavors and textures that turn some people off, leaving only pure, natural umami essence at your disposal. When used with a deft hand, it serves to amplify the existing flavors already at play, just like salt or sugar.

Instead of drowning out the delicate floral, buttery, inherent richness of whole vanilla beans, a pinch of shiitake powder brings them to the fore, brighter and bolder than ever. Suddenly, more nuanced notes of marshmallow, whipped cream, light caramel, pound cake, buttercream frosting, and custard can emerge, uplifted by the strength of free glutamate.

Ideas and Adaptations

Like any good vanilla ice cream, you can enjoy every last lick as is, or use it as your jumping-off point for bolder taste sensations. Classic mix-ins include but are not limited to:

  • Cookie dough
  • Toasted or candied nuts
  • Chocolate chips, cacao nibs, or fudge sauce
  • Fruit preserves, jam, or pie filling
  • Sprinkles

Change the whole character of your scoops by adding to the base instead:

  • Cocoa powder
  • Peanut butter
  • Peppermint extract
  • Lemon or orange zest
  • Fresh ginger

Plus, there’s no limit to the possibilities for dressing it up in:

  • Sundaes
  • Floats
  • Sandwiches
  • Cakes
  • Baked Alaska
  • Pies

Umami Flavor Hack

Don’t have time, energy, or equipment to start from scratch? You’re still invited to this ice cream social! Take any store-bought pint and sprinkle a tiny pinch of shiitake powder on top. A little bit goes a long way; you’ll instantly taste the difference.

I’m not making this up! It’s been proven time and again that everything, including desserts, can benefit from the addition of guanylate, the compound responsible for creating umami taste. The drying and rehydrating process of shiitake produces guanylate, so you get a pure, potent source that doesn’t disrupt the overall flavor, preserving the subtle nuances of the vanilla bean.

Don’t just take my word for it. This is an edible experiment that anyone can try with no risks, only sweet rewards.

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Hatch A Plan For Green Chiles

Forget Christmas; hatch chile season is really the most wonderful time of the year.

Throughout the month of August, the air across Texas and New Mexico will be thick with smoke, streaming out from roasters cranking at full bore all hours of the day. As chiles tumble over the flames, their skin blistering and crackling like fireworks, they quickly char to a matte black finish. Intoxicating aromas assault the senses, so intense that you can practically taste it from a mile away.

You’ll mark you calendar by it too, once you get a bite of those freshly roasted beauties; earthy, smoky, and with a subtle, smoldering spice.

What’s So Special About Hatch Chiles?

The relatively short growing window gives them an air of exclusivity, drawing in crowds clamoring to get their fill. What sets them apart from other peppers is their delicate balance of flavor and heat. Not so spicy that they’ll send you running for dairy-free milk, it’s more of a subtle, smoldering burn that gradually builds over time. According to the Scoville scale, they typically clock in between 1,500 and 2,500 units, which is roughly comparable to poblano or Anaheim peppers.

While you can eat them raw, it’s not recommended; roasting them completely removes the initially harsh, bitter notes by caramelizing the natural sugars, transforming the flesh into a silky, smoky treat.

How Can You Cook With Hatch Chiles?

Given the opportunity, load up your freezer with a few pounds of freshly roasted chiles to enjoy their unique flavor all year round. People go wild for the green fruits, indulging their cravings from breakfast to dessert. A glance through HEB turns up gems like:

More traditional recipes incorporate them into cornbread, salsa verde, chili, and most importantly of all, hatch chile stew.

What Is New Mexico-Style Hatch Green Chile Stew?

The first written recipe for green chile stew dates back to the 1940s, published by renowned New Mexican cook and author Fabiola Cabeza de Baca. A humble, homey affair, the recipe included pork, potatoes, and roasted green chile peppers, which has since become the blueprint to an indispensable staple of New Mexican cuisine.

Unsurprisingly, my version takes a few liberties for the sake of ease, nutrition, and plant-based adaptations, but overall stays true to the spirit of the dish. Tender chunks of meatless protein simmered slowly in a rich broth, infused with the smoky, earthy flavor of those alluring chiles take on greater depth alongside potatoes, onions, garlic, and seasonings like cumin and oregano. The result is a hearty, comforting dish that warms you from the inside out, and makes you feel like you’re right at home in the Southwest.

Whether enjoyed on a hot summer afternoon, crisp fall day, or as a cure for a chilly winter evening, hatch green chile stew is a dish that will leave you wanting more.

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Join The Cult Of Celtuce

Do you have a moment to talk about our root and savior, celtuce?

Perhaps this girthy stem lettuce doesn’t have a cult following, and I’m not exactly the most convincing salesperson, but tasting is believing. I’m on a mission to spread the good word for this sadly unsung Chinese vegetable that deserves a fervent fan base. Since we last spoke of our planted redeemer, I haven’t seen a surge in popularity, so I’m back with another pitch that won’t miss.

Why You’ll Love This Celtuce Stir Fry

Pretty much anything can be stir fried with great success, but celtuce is a truly exceptional selection.

  • Cooks in minutes. High heat lightly cooks the food while keeping it tender-crisp throughout, making this a dish you can get on the table at a moment’s notice.
  • Minimal ingredients. Just a few pantry staples and fresh aromatics stand between you and instant gratification.
  • Bold, savory flavors. This is the real reason you’ll want to make this recipe again and again. A touch of nutty sesame oil goes a long way in adding depth and richness, bolstered by umami garlic chives and scallions. Warm fresh ginger and peppers spice things up, while a touch of black vinegar adds acid that cuts through it all, lingering with a gentle sweetness at the end.

How To Cut Celtuce

The thick skin protecting each stalk makes celtuce seem intimidating to break down, but it’s really a snap to hack.

  1. Use a sharp peeler or knife to cut away the thick outer skin. Remove the dried out bottom and leafy top.
  2. Slice it on a bias to make long strips, about 2 – 3mm wide.
  3. Stack a few of the strips at a time and cut those into thin ribbons.
  4. Repeat until the whole stalk is thinly julienned.

If you have any means of getting your hands on fresh celtuce, you’re doing yourself a disservice by leaving it at the store. Support your local Asian market, ask your closest specialty store to carry it, or even order it online. There’s nothing else quite like celtuce and once you’ve been enlightened by its virtues, you’ll become a believer, too.

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Jerk It Out

Certain foods fly under the radar, overshadowed by classic crowd-pleasers or passing trends. No matter how delicious, versatile, or accessible, they remain firmly out of sight, out of mind. Occasionally, something will shake us out of our stasis, forcing the question: Why don’t I eat this more often?

Speaking for myself, I’m talking about plantains here. Satisfyingly starchy, subtly sweet, I like to think of them as tropical potatoes rather than fruits. Anything spuds can do, plantains can do, too. Not to invoke Bubba Gump, but you can boil them, fry them, saute them, bake them, mash them, stew them… You get the picture.

Thus, inspired by my Za’atar Melting Potatoes from The Everyday Vegan Cheat Sheet, Jerk Melting Plantains are encrusted with jerk seasoning, roasted at high heat to a blackened, crispy finish while retaining a downright buttery interior. The result can only be described as downright juicy, succulent in a way that you might not expect from a starchy vegetable. Hopefully this will help you and me both remember to put plantains on the grocery list more often.

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