Raw for Dessert

It seems that raw foods are all the rage these days, at least in health-conscious circles and for more open-minded foodies. It can be a proposition that’s a bit difficult to swallow, whether you follow the guidelines in full or attempt a diet of partially raw edibles and cooked dishes, due to difficulty more than anything else. Preparing a few simple snacks such as crackers or cookies? No problem, only it will take you at least half a day to dehydrate anything to the point of approaching crispiness. Craving something comforting like meatloaf or veggie burgers? Easy enough to fix, but you may just need to hunt down rare, hard to find ingredients online. The worst offenders, however, tend to be the desserts. Typically requiring crazy equipment, expensive ingredients, and up to two days of waiting before you can even take the first bite, it’s hard for this die-hard baker to fully embrace such a diet.

That doesn’t mean I would snub a whole wide universe of vegan food, simply based on the concept of applying no heat above 110 degrees. Always eager to try new things, I was excited to get my hands on a promising new book called Raw for Dessert, by Jennifer Cornbleet. Ranging from your standard raw fruit desserts to more elaborate ice cream sundaes and layer cakes, you definitely have a good variety to choose from.

Skipping over the simpler fare and diving right into- What else?- The ice cream section, I quickly decided that the Cookies and Creme Ice Cream was an absolute must-make.

Made from a base of brazil nuts, cashews, and agave, this frozen treat is nothing if not rich. Chunks of raw chocolate pie crust are mixed in at the last moment for the “cookies,” and even your seasoned ice cream pro might be fooled into thinking that this was a traditional treat. Surprisingly not as nutty as I had expected it to taste, a quality vanilla extract can really shine and lend a great depth of flavor here. Best served within a few days, lest it become too hard to scoop, the texture is perfectly creamy, accented nicely with an occasional chocolatey crunch. I would gladly make this one again, and again, and again.

Unfortunately, the Mint Ice Cream wasn’t nearly as big a hit. What I would have given for just a touch more sweetness, and just a bit more mint flavor! Although the color was a gorgeous, natural green, that was about the only vibrant thing about it.

Nuts about coconut? I sure am, and I was pleased as punch to see that it gets plenty of usage throughout this book. Wanting to focus on the fresh flavors of whole coconut, the Coconut Creme Pie sounded like a perfect showcase. Making mine into individual mini pies, it was only a matter of blending, forming the crust into tins, and blending some more, before a brief chill and all was done. Delightfully smooth and creamy, with nothing to impede the pure coconut essence, it’s hard to believe these were created without the aid of any heat, or refined sugars even!

Finishing off my trial run with a bang, it seemed only right to test the waters for a true chocoholic. Terribly curious as to what a raw Chocolate Lava Cake might taste like, I whipped out that raw cacao powder and bag of walnuts faster than you could preheat an oven. This is one simple yet incredibly impressive dessert that may very well convert full-fledged carnivores to the idea of raw foodism. Deeply chocolaty and fudgy all around, breaking into the flowing center is like opening up a sweetly wrapped present, to discover jewels inside. If you were to only make this one dessert in the whole book, it would still be worth the price.

Happily, all you need to make such desserts is just a sturdy blender or food processor, no fancy dehydrator required. I would argue that it could use a few more pictures, as only a couple of centerfolds are scattered throughout, but then I am a bit spoiled when it comes to cookbook photography. Clear instructions make each recipe a breeze to follow, and although almost all require serious servings of raw nuts, often making for a very expensive, high-fat venture, I would argue that it’s nothing outrageous for a healthier, yet still truly decadent dessert.

[Written for Go Dairy Free]

Giving in to Temptation

Like any addiction, my already insatiable appetite for frozen desserts has only grown throughout the hottest months of the year. Those familiar cravings that send me racing to the freezer, spoon in hand, are responsible for the disappearance of almost unthinkable amounts of ice cream. Despite churning up a pint or two every week, it still isn’t enough to satisfy the beast, and it’s hard not to start drooling over every new hard-packed pint in the market. Or, in this case, not so new.

Temptation non-dairy frozen dessert has been around for years, and I’ve been lusting after it ever since I first caught wind of this vegan owned and operated enterprise. Never lucky enough to find it locally, I could only dream of how incredible this self-described “super premium” ice cream would be. At last, the detached curiosity ends here: I finally got my hands on two of these highly sought-after pints, and I would be lying if I told you they stayed pristine and unopened for more than an hour after arrival.

Seeking a solid baseline for what this creamy delight might be like, I plucked the Organic Fair Trade Certified Chocolate out of the icy tomb first. Despite my high expectations, it wasn’t exactly love at first sight. Hard as a rock, it wasn’t instantly soft and scoopable, but took a bit more work to coax the unassuming brown soy product out of the cardboard container. Once zapped in the microwave for a few seconds, all was forgiven, and the texture was downright fudgy, almost chewy, even. Dense, thick, and rich, it was definitely a number of steps above so many rough, crystallized soy ice creams out there. Unfortunately, the flavor fell a bit short- Overwhelmingly sweet and very little else, the chocolate flavor had a shallow cocoa powder essence at best.

Moving on to the container of Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough, however, it was a completely different story. So soft and easy to scoop, you might say it “cuts like butter,” but I can assure you none is involved. Quick to melt, you’ve got to lick this one up fast, but that shouldn’t be any problem; The rich, intense vanilla flavor will keep you wanting more, even after two or three scoops. Dotted with sizable chunks of tender cookie dough and mini chocolate chips, each serving is sure to have plenty of fun add-ins, making for an engaging snacking experience. Possessing a slightly grainy crunch thanks to the evaporated cane juice, the cookie dough could have easily been exactly what I make for sugar cookies; both the flavor and texture were spot on, and absolutely luscious. It may be on the upper limits of my sweetness tolerance, but it’s so perfectly suited to the flavor, I wouldn’t want it any other way. This is one incredible treat that I think everyone should try, vegan or not.

Temptation offers a wide range of flavors, from green tea to pumpkin, so I really only got to sample the tip of the iceberg. If only these rare pints weren’t so hard to find, I would start “researching” these other enticing varieties right away! Have you had a chance to try Temptation yet?

Better than Butter

Rarely does being a vegan feel limiting, despite the [uninformed] majority opinion on everything that might be “lacking” from a plant-based diet. However, even I have to balk when confronted by the idea of a soy-free vegan. That protein-packed little bean seems to sneak into just about everything these days, and can be hard enough to avoid for an omnivore, let alone a traditionally tofu- and soymilk-heavy veggie diet. Politics aside, I agree that we’ve gone overboard with the soy additives in recent years, and it simply can’t hurt to seek out more alternatives when given the option.

Well, up until just a few months ago, soy-free, dairy-free folks have been plum out of luck when it comes to finding a suitable buttery spread; Absolutely nothing fit the criteria, always being based on soybean oil with a pinch of soy lecithin thrown in for good measure. Finally, demand has created supply, and Earth Balance has expanded their line of vegan spreads to include a Soy-Free Natural Buttery Spread.

Spreadable right out of the fridge, this tub-based spread will undoubtedly be the answer to many buttery prayers. Almost indistinguishable in flavor from its predecessors, you won’t miss the soy one bit here. I did feel that when used plain to top bread or toast, it could stand a good hit of salt, and was just a tad waxy while still cold, but just a few moments at room temperature will remedy that. It does melt quite quickly, so don’t leave this one out on the counter in the middle of a hot summer day- You’ll find a tub full of plain oil in no time at all.

Happily, it also proved to be a perfectly acceptable margarine substitute for most baking applications as well. Creamed with sugar, flour, and spices to make a quick batch of ginger snaps, I was thrilled to see that they looked almost exactly the same as when they’re made with a solid stick margarine. Although somewhat cakier than usual, owing only to the added water inherent in a spreadable tub-based spread, no one could really complain about the sweet results.

Upping the ante a bit, I began to wonder- Would it be possible to make browned butter with this product? Well, why not? And happily, after a moment or two of nervous bubbling and sputtering on the stove, I found myself with a pot full of rich, nutty, amber-colored liquid, looking every bit as good as something dairy-based! Now, what to do with this fragrant fat?

Browned butter vanilla bean cupcakes, anyone?

Yeah, that’s what I thought.

Made by simply substituting my browned “butter” for the oil called for in my favorite basic vanilla cupcake recipe, this is a grown-up take on the classic that everyone could appreciate. Much more nuanced in flavor than the standard, and oh so rich, I can only imagine how fast they would fly if served instead of plain vanilla at a birthday party.

Lest I ignore all of the potential this product holds for savory applications, it seemed only appropriate to try out a nifty technique that I had so far only heard of, and typically applied almost exclusively to seafood: Butter poaching. Having recently stumbled upon butter-poached radishes, I figured that I could try other vegetables as well, and settled on the humble potato for my experiment.

Creating incredibly rich, tender slices of potato, accented with tarragon and a splash of vinegar, this is a side dish that couldn’t be easier to whip up; a real treat. Too morish to make often, but appropriate for occasional splurges, I’ll definitely have to try butter-poaching other vegetables now!

In case you’re looking for a cruelty-free and soy-free alternative to butter, look no further. This simple spread is the first that meets the criteria, and passes the taste test!

[Written for Go Dairy Free]

Cacao with a Kick

Come summer time, not only do eating habits have to change to accommodate the sweltering heat, but so do online ordering habits. Yes indeed, I’m guilty of rampant internet shopping practices, sending every wacky, interesting, and simply new food product to my virtual cart without a care in the world. With such easy access to otherwise unattainable vegan novelties, it’s hard to curb that impulse, and especially when it comes to innovative sweets. Unfortunately, mail ordering chocolate is a big no-no for me from about June through September, for fear of receiving a semi-melted, bloomed glob of cocoa butter and solids instead. Normally this isn’t such a difficult policy to follow, and the arrival of fall is always happily greeted with a big shipment of all the chocolates that had been tempting me through the summer… But I’m breaking all the rules this year. The decadent promise of Xan Confections’ vegan chocolate collection was simply too great to delay another month!

As soon as that brown cardboard box landed on my doorstep, I swooped in, tearing through plastic tape and a styrofoam cooler, eager to rescue my prize… Only to find my worst cocoa-covered fear inside. Never before had I broken the seasonal chocolate rule, and I’d be damned if I didn’t pay for it. Boxes smashed open, ice pack dripping wet and leaking all over the contents of that tiny cooler, it was enough to make a grown woman cry. And maybe it did. But regardless, through this tragedy, I discovered that the people of Xan Confection’s are understanding and caring human beings, taking pity on my situation enough to send out another package, no questions asked. Happily, this one arrived intact and looking positively mouth-watering.

There’s no way around it; These molded chocolates are absolutely stunning eye candy. The aptly named Jewel Collection consists of colorful, shimmering chocolate shells enclosing a variety of flavored caramels. Each different hue indicates a different flavor, but none are specifically marked or designated, so the element of surprise makes each bite just a little bit more exciting. Especially true if you happen to pick up the purple-tinged chocolate first, as I did… What a shock to discover a spicy, cayenne-flecked, flowing caramel sequestered inside that unassuming chocolate casing! This one really made me sit up and take notice- It was a real wake up call, with the potency to rival that of a cup of coffee!

The following flavors were somewhat less arresting, but no less tantalizing. Bright, fresh strawberry flavor, just like homemade strawberry jam, leapt out from within a pink-dusted gem to great delight. A pure caramel core with a perfect hit of salt in another truly made my tongue sing. The firm bite of a solid ganache center was another unexpected treat, incredibly rich with intense chocolate flavor.

Each new truffle kept me guessing, concealing any number of delicious flavors and textures within every last jewel. Part of the fun is that unknowable element, so instead of having me spell which each and every chocolate is, I think it’s just best if you taste these for yourself! Gem-like in every sense of the word, every little morsel is a true treasure.

Incredibly, the Saintly Sins collection packs the same punch of flavor and sublime texture, but is light in both fat and calories. I had trouble believing it myself as I bit through the perfectly tempered chocolate pieces, teeth meeting with a satisfying snap. Though the filling was runny to the point of being syrupy, and potentially quite messy, that problem is easily remedied by popping the whole truffle in your mouth at once! The fruit flavors were all fresh and intense, perfectly paired with the gently bitter chocolate exteriors.

It’s hard to find vegan chocolates of this quality, so if you’re craving a truly satisfying fix, it’s well worth the hazards of ordering Xan Confections through the internet, even in the hottest of months!

Best Intentions

All too often, food manufacturers grow so large that their products become nothing more than numbers; Objects fit for consumption, but not necessarily thought of as nourishment, whether it be physical or spiritual.  Food has so many roles to play, so many needs to fill, that to flatten it down to mere commodities should practically be a crime.  Of course, this is the foodie in me speaking, but companies that care about their food beyond its revenue generally make better offerings, and that’s something everyone can appreciate.  One such company is Bountiful Vegan, passionate about making vegan cookies that are not only delicious, but full of positive and uplifting energy.  Sound a bit far fetched?  Well, then you haven’t tried their Intention Cookies yet.

Not only do you get a fantastically tasty treat every time you buy one of their cookies, but a complimentary affirmation hidden inside the wrapper sweetens the deal. For anyone who’s had a rough day or could just use a little extra emotional boost, I can hardly think of a better combination. Each cookie is roughly the size of a small child’s head, by the way, and that alone should put a smile on your face!

Punctuated by a generous smattering of dark chocolate chips, the Love Cookie (orange chocolate chip) simply couldn’t be ignored, and didn’t last too long after being photographed. Turning out to be one of my favorites of the group, with such soft, gently yielding dough that would be good enough on its own, but positively shines next to the contrasting chocolate pieces. Happily, the chocolate is in perfect proportion to the cookie, and doesn’t overwhelm the delicate citrus notes that add just a light touch of zesty orange flavor. More exciting than your standard chocolate chip cookie, this is one that I can’t imagine would stick around many days in any house.

Nondescript and potentially easy to overlook, the Well-Being Cookie (pineapple coconut) is hardly as unremarkable as it may look.  Possessing a firmer bite than the previous softie, and a slightly coarse texture thanks to the shredded coconut, eating this cookie is an entirely different experience.  Generally “tropical” tasting, it’s hard to pick the pineapple flavor out of the mix, but there’s definitely something extra in there that couldn’t come from coconut alone.  Pleasingly well-salted, it’s an overall well-balanced and inoffensive baked good. While this one wouldn’t be my first pick, I still had no trouble finishing it in the end.

In another interesting little twist on a classic flavor, the Harmony Cookie (lemon snickerdoodle) shakes up the simple spice-encrusted cookie with the bright pep of lemon oil.  Cheerful as a sunny day, you can’t help but feel happy as you sink your teeth into that crackled crust of cinnamon and sugar.  Satisfyingly chewy, the combination of textures is so perfectly addictive, they could very well be flavored with motor oil and they would still be hard to turn down.  Thankfully, they’re absolutely delicious, gently perfumed with just a hint of lemon.

Saving what I hoped would be best for last, I finally dove into the Prosperity Cookie (choco choco-chip) with a voracious appetite. Surprisingly restrained in the sugar department, it was markedly less sweet than the previous baked beauties. More “adult” in flavor, featuring some bitter undertones of cocoa powder and accented by the much needed richness of the chocolate chips. Good, but not stellar, I’m starting to think that the previous knock-out flavors may have just set my expectations of this last cookie too high.

If you care about what you eat, and have a serious sweet tooth to satisfy, this is one compassionate business that you should definitely support. And who knows- You may just feel so inspired after eating one of these treats as to actually go out and accomplish your intentions!

Churn! Churn! Churn! (To Everything There is a Season)

Yes indeed, if there were ever a season for ice cream, it would have to be now or never. Churning day and night, my poor ice cream maker has not gotten a minute to rest since there was a fine frost on the windows, and its duties have only multiplied since I picked up a copy of The Vegan Scoop, the latest creation from Wheeler del Torro, the frozen dessert mastermind behind Wheeler’s Vegan Ice Cream. Instantly smitten upon first lick, these were some sweet recipes that I was positively clamoring to get my hands on even before I heard that a book might be in the works. How lucky that Wheeler was generous to share his secret formula!

And what a bang-up formula this is. Simple, fool-proof, and composed of ingredients that absolutely everyone should have no trouble getting a hold of, it was a breeze to mix up each flavor in no time. Measurements are also listed in metric right alongside the US cups and spoons, so I was thrilled to just toss the whole thing onto my scale and get cooking.

Lured in by the abundant color photos and overall aesthetically pleasing design, there’s no denying that this is one beautiful book. Recipes run the gamut from classic parlor favorites to exotic novelties, such as a very adventurous Seaweed Ice Cream, so there’s no lack of fun choices or ideas here. Desserts to serve alongside your frozen treats are found scattered thought the pages, in addition to a dedicated chapter at the very end of the book.

My first choice was easy- Chocolate. Dressing it up with a touch of peppermint extract and a few chopped mint-filled sandwich cookies, it was as rich as super-premium ice cream, and dangerously addictive. A runaway hit, I don’t think that this batch lasted beyond a single day.

Curious as to how whole fruit might be incorporated successfully in a frozen dessert, the Apple Pie ice cream quickly caught my eye while flipping through the vibrant pages. Although the sauteed apples themselves turned out to be incredibly saturated with an egregious dose of cinnamon, the flavor mellowed considerably when combined with the custard base. Admittedly not my top pick, as I found the icy chunks of apples somewhat off-putting, I still had no trouble polishing off this quart.

Seeking a delicious use for an abundance of fresh, seasonal strawberries, the Strawberry ice cream was an obvious choice. Sweet, uncomplicated, and reminiscent of the bright pink strawberry milk I once enjoyed as a child, this simple flavor proved to be surprisingly comforting. Kids would undoubtedly adore it, but all the same, adults may covertly sneak spoonfuls while no one’s looking.

Finally, gravitating towards another love of mine, trying the Coffee ice cream recipe was practically a necessity. Unfortunately, I found it to be far too mild for my tastes, and wouldn’t make it as written again.

The Vegan Scoop excels at providing inspiration for new flavor combinations and platings, encouraging cooks to get creative in the kitchen without letting a drop of dairy get in the way. It may not be the book for “advanced” ice cream makers, as most of the recipes use the same formula over and over again, switching out one ingredient to create a new flavor. That structure and guidance may be useful to others though, so it’s a matter of preference. Just beware of filler and repetition, like the recipe for espresso ice cream… Which is exactly the same as the coffee ice cream, but with- You guessed it- Brewed espresso instead of coffee.

Unable to resist the temptation, a sundae with Wheeler’s Blondies sounded like a fabulous treat. These bars err on the cakey side of the equation, but all shortcomings were easily overlooked once topped with ice cream, caramel, chocolate chips, and raspberries. Now that’s one sweet way to cool off this season!