It’s S’more Than A Feeling

Any kid that once went to summer camp will forever have a soft spot for s’mores. The very word conjures up memories of crackling campfires, star-studded nights, and the all-American treat. No one can forget the sweet, sticky mess of melted chocolate, dripping out from under the heat of a toasted (okay, burnt) marshmallow, barely holding itself together between two buckling graham crackers. Though a relatively new culinary innovation that we can thank the Girl Scouts for, both the flavor and ritual have become impossibly enmeshed in our collective psyche.

I’d be willing to bet that most people these days don’t go out and light a bonfire every time cravings strike. Gathering firewood, tending flames that are extinguished after a light breeze, and battling rogue mosquitos seems like a lot to ask for a simple snack.

No longer children, subjected to these character-building moments, we have the means and technology to improve that experience. S’mores cupcakes capture all the nostalgia and flavor of the classic campfire treat, but with the added bonus of staying safe and cozy indoors. By using aquafaba, the beloved chickpea brine that whips up like a dream, it’s easy to achieve the very same toasted marshmallow flavor in a frosting. Just char the edges with a kitchen torch after piping; it’s faster than wrestling with kindling, a whole lot less messy than campfire soot, and the flavor is every bit as incredible.

Instead of tromping outside into the wilderness, preheat your oven for this round. It’s time to turn your kitchen into a haven of warm, gooey childhood comfort food, minus the campfire fuss.

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Mango Memories

When is the right time for Mango Caramel Cheesecake Bars? I couldn’t begin to tell you; I’ve been hanging onto this recipe for a solid nine years and have yet to find that ideal window of opportunity. Naturally, I’ve long since forgotten why I made them in the first place or who I shared them with, but their memory remains. Like a ghost, barely visible in my mind’s eye, I can only faintly recall the rich, caramelized mango ribbon running through lightly sweetened cheesecake filling, a variation on the classic that’s both simple and stunning. It’s now or never, this recipe must go out.

Best Mango Cheesecake, Bar None

Destined for a fancy dinner party? Feeding friends at a casual potluck? They can be the star of the show or a graciously share the spotlight. The natural tart flavor of fresh mangoes works in concert with the tangy cream cheese filling, adding floral, tropical, and buttery notes when baked together harmoniously. Though decadent, they never feel heavy, thanks to the acidity of the fruit, complemented by the subtle taste of warm molasses.

Mango Caramel for Keeps

You don’t have to make the full dessert to enjoy this treat. Think of it like next level apple butter, slowly simmered until all the flavors and sugars are concentrated. It takes a while, but can also be made well in advance. The only danger with that is you may be tempted to spread it all on toast before preheating the oven.

Timeless Treats

My mistake was thinking that there was a just one season, or holiday, or mood for making such a treat. In reality, they’re always welcome at the table.

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Keep On Kibbeh On

Diving into a plate of homemade kibbeh, still hot enough to scald both your fingers and mouth as you steal the first bite, and still so impossibly delicious that it’s worth the pain, is a singular experience to aspire to. It’s been on my recipe wish list for a decade, maybe two, punted in favor of less daunting dishes. At long last, I can say that while it’s not a quick fix meal to whip up on an average weeknight, it’s well within reach, and well worth taking the plunge.

What Are Kibbeh?

The word kibbeh stems from an Arabic verb كَبَّبَ (kabbaba), meaning “to form into a ball” or a circular shape. Kibbeh is considered a revered national dish of Syria and Lebanon, held in high esteem and fiercely protected. The essential ingredients for any form of kibbeh are bulgur wheat, spices, and ground meat. Traditionally, that meat would be in the form of lamb, beef, or goat, but plant-based variations abound. My recipe combines potatoes for binding power, chickpeas for protein, and Sugimoto Shiitake for umami to create the ideal balance of texture, nutrition, and flavor.

Sugimoto Shiitake are my favorite substitute for ground beef. You can mince the whole mushroom or just the stem for a thrifty fix that packs a huge punch of flavor. The toothsome chew stands on its own as an authentically meaty sensation, or enhances any range of alternative proteins to those same lofty standards. Coarsely mashed chickpeas, crisp pine nuts, caramelized onions, and a dazzling array of spices join forces for an unforgettable taste sensation.

Hashweh in Arabic means “filling” or “stuffing,” which is how I refer to this umami mixture. However, in common parlance, it’s come to refer to a one-pot rice dish, not unlike a meaty pilaf. You could very happily use it to stuff other vegetables, like peppers or cabbage, or serve like a side dish as is.

Kaleidoscopic Kibbeh

Kibbeh isn’t just one dish. At last count, there’s roughly 70 distinctive variations found across the Middle East. Between regional variations, family tradition, and personal preferences, no two recipes are ever the same. Some of the most common types include:

  • Kibbeh Nayyeh is served completely raw, fully incorporating the meat with the wheat, like a finely ground steak tartare.
  • Kibbeh Bil Sanieh bakes the components together as two layers in a shallow dish.
  • Kibbeh Labanieh takes fried kibbeh balls and drowns them in a thick yogurt sauce.
  • Arras Kibbeh is what we’re making today: football-shaped, stuffed, and deep-fried kibbeh.

Popular Pairings

Is it a main dish or a mezze? That’s a trick question; it’s both! Get the party started by serving hot or room temperature kibbeh alongside tahini sauce, hummus, or tzatziki for dipping. Create a full dinner spread by pairing them with tabbouleh, shirazi salad, pita bread, grilled or roasted vegetables, or red lentil soup. Of course, you can easily make a one-bowl meal by topping salad or rice with all your favorite fixings and freshly fried kibbeh.

Prep For Success

There’s no way around it: making kibbeh from scratch can be an all-day affair. The first attempt may be messy or unshapely, but I promise you, every bit as gratifying in the end. Make the process easier by planning ahead:

  1. Enlist help from friends or family when it comes to stuffing to make the process both quicker and more enjoyable.
  2. Prepare one or both of the components in advance and store them in airtight containers in the refrigerator for up to three days.
  3. Uncooked kibbeh freezes well, as does fully fried, leftover kibbeh, allowing you to enjoy it whenever the craving strikes.

Fear Of Frying?

Deep frying isn’t a regular activity around here, given the mess, potential hazards, and health implications, so I understand the hesitation. However, if there’s one recipe that I’d implore you to embrace that bubbling vat of oil, (though not literally, please!) it’s this one. No other method will create that perfectly crispy, golden brown shell that encloses a moist, meaty center. That said, I don’t want to dissuade you from trying other methods if that’s the only way to go. Your best bets are:

  • Baking: Spray or brush the kibbeh with oil and bake in an oven preheated to 400 degrees for 25 – 30 minutes, flipping halfway through.
  • Air frying: Spray or brush the kibbeh with oil and air fry at 370 degrees for 12-15 minutes, shaking the basket every 5 minutes or so.
  • Pan frying: Set a nonstick skillet over medium heat, coat the bottom with 1 tablespoon of oil, then add 10 – 12 kibbeh at a time, making sure the pan is not too crowded. Cook for 8 – 10 minutes, turning on each side until evenly browned. Repeat with the remaining kibbeh.

Making kibbeh is truly an art that takes time and practice to get right. Fortunately, imperfect kibbeh is equally delicious, so your efforts will always be rewarded.

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All Y’alls Cookbook

“Flavor First” is the philosophy that guides my approach to cooking. It needs a punch of acid, smoldering heat, and sultry umami; an arresting taste experience that commands the center stage. To call something bland is the worst insult in my kitchen. That’s why it was such a joy to cook with All Y’alls Foods, creating this cookbook from the ground up with a rich palate of global tastes to spark inspiration. In case you thought of jerky as just a snack, allow me to flip the script.

What makes It’s Jerky Y’all and It’s Big Crunchy Bacony Bits Y’all so special is that they do more than try to translate dried meats directly into vegan terms. Each pouch offers the immediate gratification of a ready-to-eat snack, but with some creativity and fresh ingredients, you have an incredibly versatile, adaptable meal starter in your hands. Think of it as shelf-stable protein, just like you would lentils or chickpeas, but with more of a meaty bite than basic beans could ever dream of.

Let the rich flavors inspire your cooking, leaning into the building blocks of global cuisine by employing simple pantry staples. Chinese stir-fries or Mexican tortas are within easy reach, without a trip to a specialty grocery store or years of experience.

That said, don’t let me tell you what to do. Take this collection of recipes and make it your own. I’m thrilled to give away three copies to celebrate the printing and release, at long last! To enter, leave a comment about your favorite flavor of plant-based jerky, and don’t forget to log that on the form below.

It’s All Y’alls Cookbook

If you just can’t wait, you can snag a copy on the official All Y’alls Foods website.

I couldn’t be more proud to partner with founder and CEO Brett Christoffel in not only creating the recipes, text, and photos for this book, but also designing it from scratch, for the first time in my career. Since completing this project over a year ago, All Y’alls Foods has already released a new flavor, so you can expect a reprint with more sweet ideas featuring the inimitable Cinnamon Churro jerky. There’s always room for improvisation and even greater culinary exploration.

Im-Pressed with Oshizushi

50 years ago, sushi was an obscure, exotic oddity in the US. The mere concept of eating any sort of raw food, let alone uncooked proteins, had Americans running for the hills. Now, nigiri, sashimi, and maki are as commonplace as spaghetti and meatballs, and easily just as popular. Despite that infatuation, there’s a wide world of sushi that doesn’t get as much fanfare abroad.

Oshizushi, looking for all the world like an oversized sushi cake, offers a slice of Japanese heritage that’s poised to be the next big culinary craze that’s more than a passing trend.

What Is Oshizushi?

Literally translated as “pressed sushi,” oshizushi is a rectangular block of seasoned short grain rice layered with flavorful fillings, meticulously crafted in a wooden mold called oshibako. Unlike delicate, hand-formed nigiri, oshizushi comes together quickly thanks to this assembly line process. It boasts a slightly denser, satisfying texture – a testament to the pressing process that binds all the elements together.

Pressing Issues

Beautiful, even, and cohesive strata of tender grains, vegetables, and (traditionally) fish are the hallmark that immediately indicates a master’s work. This isn’t just about aesthetics, though. The act of pressing creates a unique interplay between rice and fillings. The flavors meld together, as the lightly vinegared rice mingles with the subtle sweetness of the protein, which is often gently cured or marinated. The pressure intensifies the umami throughout each bite, making oshizushi an experience that lingers on the palate long after the last bite.

Essential Additions

While there’s no wrong way to stack up your oshizushi, certain fillings get the nod for historical accuracy, harmony, and quite simply deliciousness. Customarily, oshizushi was prepared very simply, often with shiso and mackerel, trout, or salmon, served with soy sauce, wasabi, hot mustard, miso sauce, or pickled ginger. Contemporary approaches are more like modern futomaki, in the sense that anything goes. Tempura vegetables, shiitake mushrooms, watermelon ahi tuna, dairy-free cream cheese, sriracha; if you like it in sushi, you’ll like it here! Personally, my favorites always include thinly sliced cucumbers for that refreshing, crisp bite, and creamy avocados a touch of richness.

In this case, I was inspired by the rare appearance of plant-based seaweed-wrapped soy fillets, flavored and styled like imitation fish. As if that wasn’t opulent enough, a garnish of vegan fish roe elevated this humble food to all new heights. Naturally, you can use any protein you prefer, such as thinly sliced, marinated tofu or tempeh.

Sush-Easy

Consider oshizushi the quick fix for sushi cravings. Instead of painstakingly rolling each morsel, you can cut straight to the good stuff in no time at all. Sprinkle on furikake to get that essential nori flavoring without fussing with those delicate sheets, and dinner will be ready in no time.

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