Category: Baking / Cooking

Stealthy Spice

Korean food in America is having a moment. Take a look at the latest hits from Trader Joe’s and you’ll see what I mean. They haven’t been able to keep frozen kimbap in stock since it launched almost a year ago, even after imposing strict purchasing limits. The beefless bulgogi has been winning over meat eaters and thrilling vegans as a premier protein, ideal for any cuisine, it turns out. They’ve introducing tteokbokki (spicy stir-fried rice cakes), japchae (clear sweet potato noodles), jumeokbap (rice balls), and much more to a whole new audience that’s absolutely eating it up. Kimchi paved the way, and yet I find that the weakest offering by far.

Beyond Basic Kimchi

Kimchi has been simplified to mean spicy fermented cabbage out here, which isn’t wrong, but not entirely right either. It’s like saying all pickles are made of cucumbers, disregarding the whole pantheon of fermented veggies in the cellar. What’s worse is the fact that many commercial American kimchi options are simply vinegared, not lacto-fermented. There’s no funk, no heat, no umami to speak of.

Rad Radishes

Kkakdugi (깍두기), made with chunks of radish, has become my new obsession. You won’t find it outside of Asian grocery stores, but the good news is that it’s one of the easiest forms of kimchi to make at home. It’s the equivalent of a quick pickle, ready in as little as an hour, or savored with more complex flavors in a week. Though daikon is traditional, I was inspired by an incredibly peppery batch of purple ninja radishes that seemed ideal to pair with the fiery heat of gochugaru.

Pungent in the best kind of way, ninja kimchi is an intense, bold, and invigorating condiment to accent your next meal. The vegetables stay crisp for a satisfying crunch, though they’re also fabulous added to stews for a softer bite. Naturally, any kind of radish will do, from the original daikon to garden variety breakfast radish, but flavors and colors do of course vary.

If you like kimchi or want to delve deeper into Korean food beyond what’s available at mainstream US grocery stores, kkakdugi is an excellent way to test the waters.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

Good In Bed

Breakfast in bed is the ultimate form of luxury, relaxation, and care. The average morning routine is merely a perfunctory sequence of events to get on with the day, if not a stressful mad scramble to get out the door. Having the opportunity to relish those early morning hours, being more thoughtful about very element, makes it so special.

While any food can be eaten for breakfast and also enjoyed in bed, there are certain options that are more compelling than others.

Prioritize Portability

Opt for dishes that travel easily from kitchen to bedside. Avoid items that easily wilt or become soggy, like delicate leafy greens. Recipes that keep well and can be made the day before are even better, like breakfast burritos or mini quiches.

Minimize the Mess

Sticky foods like syrup-drenched pancakes can be messy to navigate in bed. Opt for dishes with contained sauces, like eggless omelets or breakfast sandwiches, or offer syrup and condiments on the side in small, sealed containers.

Embrace Finger Foods

Think beyond the traditional plate and fork. Finger foods like skewers, whole berries and segmented citrus fruit, or avocado toast are easy to grab and enjoy without utensils, making for a more relaxed and comfortable experience.

Don’t Forget the Drinks

An invigorating beverage is essential. Opt for spill-proof travel mugs for hot drinks like coffee or tea, and include reusable straws for juices and smoothies.

With the basics covered, you or the person you love is free to enjoy the moment, not sweat the details. For an unforgettable breakfast in bed, here are my top recipe recommendations.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)12 Comments

Naan-Stop

In a battle royal of flatbreads, I’d put money on naan coming out on top. Plush, buttery, and lightly charred on the outside, this simple staple is now one of the most integral parts of Indian cuisine known around the world. Garlic naan eclipses all other variants for obvious reasons, but an incredibly diverse and largely unsung range of unique naan breads exist beyond those basics. There’s keema naan, cheese naan, and my latest obsession, kashmiri naan.

What Is Kashmiri Naan?

Kashmiri naan breaks the mold of its savory siblings. Masterfully blending elements both sweet and savory, no two bites are the same, nor would you want them to be. It starts with the same pillow-soft, chewy dough we all know and love, stuffing it to the brim with dried fruits and nuts. Bursts of tart, rich, toasted notes punctuate each morsel, creating an irresistible flavor and textural contrast.

Not one content to leave things well enough alone, I’d like to propose pushing that experience even further with an umami assist from Sugimoto Shiitake. Adding an aromatic, earthy quality that rounds out the full bouquet of seasonings, they simultaneously amplify the intensity of those tart cherries, caramel-like dates and raisins, and nutty cashews and almonds. Best of all, this approach helps prevent food waste, since it’s an excellent opportunity to make use of the stems.

Breads Rising From the Himalayas

Kashmiri naan’s history is as rich as its flavor. While the word “naan” itself comes from the Persian word for “bread,” the distinctive variation in the spotlight today flourishes in the Kashmir region, nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas. Kashmir, a land known for its abundance of fruits and nuts, naturally incorporated these treasures into its breads. This innovation not only offered a deeply gratifying culinary indulgence, but also provided a source of portable energy for the people traversing this mountainous terrain.

Choose Your Own Culinary Adventure

Feeling adventurous? Don’t be afraid to experiment with your Kashmiri naan! Here are some ideas to make this recipe your own.

  • Fruitful Swaps: Instead of cherries and raisins, try using dried apricots, cranberries, or currants instead.
  • Go Nuts: Any nut will do, really! That means pistachios and pine nuts of course, but also walnuts, pecans, or even Brazil nuts, too.
  • Spice it Up: Inject bolder flavor into the base with a pinch of cardamom, cinnamon, turmeric, and/or cayenne mixed straight into the dough.
  • Always Umami: If you haven’t been saving up your shiitake stems, you can very happily use either Sugimoto donko or koshin caps as well.

Serving and Savoring

Kashmiri naan is incredibly versatile. It shines as a standalone treat, served warm for breakfast or snack, especially alongside a steaming cup of chai. Of course, just like your average naan, it also makes a fantastic accompaniment to curries, providing a sweet contrast to the savory spices. Personally, my favorite accompaniment is fiery sambal blended with a touch of vegan yogurt for a bold finishing touch.

While all naan is welcome on my table, Kashmiri naan is in the upper echelon of all yeast breads. The unconventional, incredibly compelling pairing of sweetness and umami, wrapped up in pan-fried, pillow-soft dough is impossible to top. For a taste sensation that’s both familiar and refreshingly different, look no further. Plain naan may need to step out of regular rotation for a while.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Ocas For Every Occasion

We have the Incas to thank for many of today’s hottest superfoods. Quinoa took the world by storm, rising from an unknown oddity to ubiquitous healthy staple seemingly overnight. Cassava is now the backbone of countless gluten-free baked goods, not to mention the darling of those following a paleo protocol. Maca, lucuma, and camu camu are all held in high esteem for flavoring desserts and creating natural supplements alike. Still, that’s only a fraction of the unique edible gifts Peru has to offer. Currently little known outside of South America, ocas may be next to make an appearance on that star-studded playbill.

What Are Ocas?

Though the comparisons are unavoidable, ocas are NOT just another type of potato. Also known as uqa in Quechua, the oca is a root vegetable native to the Andes, where its been grown since before known civilization. The tubers come in a wide range of shapes and sizes, but they are typically elongated and finger-like, ranging from 1 centimeter to 4 inches in length. (Pictured here are the smallest variety around, sometimes described as “mini” or “baby” ocas.)

Their skin is bumpy and comes in vibrant colors like red, yellow, orange, purple, and pink. The very same crop can yield a full spectrum sunset or just one shade. The leaves and flowers of the oca plant are also edible and can be used in salads or stir-fries, but are nearly impossible to export given their fragility.

Taste The Rainbow

Although color isn’t an indicator of flavor, not all ocas taste the same. The specific flavor profile can vary depending on the variety and how they are cooked. Complex and multifaceted, the taste can be described as combination of four primary elements:

  • Sweet: Similar to sweet potato or butternut squash, with a a heightened perception of the natural sugars.
  • Sour: A slight tartness, similar to green apples or raw rhubarb, which adds a refreshing note.
  • Nutty: A hint of nuttiness, like chestnuts or hazelnuts, adding depth.
  • Earthy: As you might expect from a root vegetable, similar to white potatoes or gold beets.

How To Eat And Cook With Ocas

Raw ocas are truly special; crisp and crunchy, with a slight snap when bitten, they make a stunning addition to a plate of dip and crudités. Though also fabulous when cooked, they begin to lose some of their defining characteristics that set them apart from supermarket spuds. Their colors become muted with heat and time, though that can be mitigated somewhat by using more acidic ingredients (lemon juice, vinegar, tomatoes) to preserve the volatile anthocyanins.

To reiterate, ocas are not potatoes, but they can be prepared any way you would cook potatoes.

  • Boiling: This is a simple and effective method, resulting in a soft and tender texture. Cook whole ocas in boiling water for 10-15 minutes, or until tender when pierced with a fork.
  • Roasting: Roasting brings out the natural sweetness and creates a crispy exterior. Preheat oven to 425 degrees, toss ocas with olive oil and herbs, and roast for 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown and fork-tender.
  • Sautéing: Sautéed ocas are another delicious option. Heat oil in a pan over medium heat, add chopped ocas, and cook for 5-7 minutes, or until slightly softened. Add other ingredients like onions, peppers, or spices for added flavor.
  • Frying: Ocas can be deep-fried for a crispy snack or side dish. However, this is the least healthy option due to added fat.
  • Mashing: Mashed ocas are a smooth and creamy side dish. Boil ocas for 20 minutes until soft, then mash with vegan butter, non-dairy milk, and your favorite seasonings.

Recipe Ideas

What sets ocas apart from your average taproot is their versatility. Most focus on their savory applications, but they’re equally appealing when used in desserts. That means they’re fantastic…

  • Candied, either by plunging them into hot caramelized sugar and let set, or tossed with aquafaba and coarse sugar.
  • On top of yogurt or smoothie bowls.
  • Tossed into fruit salads as well as leafy green salads.
  • Baked into focaccia or used as a topping for flatbreads and pizzas.
  • Mixed with diced potatoes and pan-fried as hash browns.
  • Lightly simmered in soups or stews.
  • Canned, either as pickles or sweet preserves and jam.

Keep An Eye Out For Ocas

With their unique flavor profile, diverse textures, and vibrant colors, ocas offer a wholly satisfying adventure for your taste buds. From simple raw snacks to creative culinary uses, this ancient Andean root vegetable is poised for a modern comeback.

Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

Crunch Time

I love cabbage. I don’t care how weird or uncool that makes me; I will never hide my penchant for these leafy brassicas. Look, I get the stigma, having historically been the food of peasants, the tragically poor and déclassé. After centuries of disrespect, I’d like to think I’m seeing glimmers of hope on the horizon for the humble cabbage.

That’s where the Crunchy Cabbage Salad at Loro comes in. For a place that bills itself as an Asian smokehouse and bar, they sure do know their way around the produce department. I was instantly smitten with their oak grilled snap peas that graced the menu over the summer, but this salad turned out to be the real sleeper hit. Arriving at the table showered with lemon zest, fresh mint, and candied cashews, the interplay of sugar and salt, crunchy and creamy, is exactly what makes it so compelling.

Gossamer-thin strands of shredded red cabbage intertwine with lightly pickled cucumbers and bites of tender green cabbage, sweet and mild, crisp yet somehow juicy. Coated in a cashew-ginger vinaigrette, the dressing has body from just a roasted cashew butter, preventing it from becoming cloying or heavy. Brightened by the fresh, raw spice and citrus, it’s the kind of condiment you’ll want on hand at all times. Go ahead, start mentally doubling or tripling that recipe right now to save the rest for later.

Loro keeps their secrets well, so I couldn’t get the official formula out of them. No matter; nothing will stand in the way of my love for cabbage. This is my take on the concept, with the added benefit of making about four times as much for a quarter of the price. Going slightly off-script, I found that smoked cashews add an even more compelling dimension, but simple roasted cashews would be equally satisfying.

Above all else, the real star of the show is the cabbage. Standing tall like fragile, tender greens never could, it’s a salad that travels well, keeps well, and quite simply won’t let you down.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments