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No Bake, No Sweat
Soaring temperatures are a given on a typical summer’s day. As the mercury inevitably pushes higher, breaking new records with every passing season, the desire to spend time in the kitchen plummets proportionally. Unfortunately, those with a sweet tooth know that nothing will quell the craving for a satisfying sweet treat. It may very well be raining fire because unless it’s an actual apocalypse, dessert still must be served- And in that case, perhaps even more so.
Why is it so hard to just get motivated and make the same tried-and-true staples that always hit the spot? Chocolate chip cookies are foolproof, but this simple indulgence takes on a greater level of complexity when you factor in the unique stumbling blocks of summer. There’s the basic issue of turning on the oven, subjecting oneself to a punishing sauna even more brutal than the sun’s rays, and the time it takes for preheating, baking, and finally cooling down draws the suffering out to an interminable torture.
It’s also been proven that we’re less ambitious and productive during these midyear months, beckoned away from work by tempting beaches, hikes, or just lazy afternoons with friends. This is when most people go on vacations, after all, whether that’s a physical journey or just a mental respite. Convincing yourself to work harder while everyone else has all the fun is a losing battle that no one really should have to fight.
Want to end any sweltering day with a flourish? Pull out a towering icebox cake, layered with ripe, lightly spiced peaches, whipped coconut cream, and softened graham crackers. Despite the name, there’s no cake here and it doesn’t come out of the freezer! Rather, this old-school moniker came from an age when the only source of refrigeration was from a poorly insulated box, much like a picnic cooler, stuffed with rapidly melting ice. This modern take on no-bake cake will come as a happy surprise when it lands on the table, ready to slice and serve with minimal effort.
So go ahead, take it easy. Escape the heat, simplify your menu, but perish the thought of skipping dessert. No-bake desserts exist for just such occasions, rewarding a minimum amount of effort with sweet gratification.
Ideas in Phyllosophy
For a ready-made ingredient that’s widely found in mainstream markets, phyllo dough seems to produce a disproportionate amount of angst. Otherwise savvy bakers blanch at the idea of working with the delicate pastry sheets, and while it does take a gentle touch, most fears are largely overblown. It’s not as if they’ll shatter if you merely look at them wrong. The best way to overcome any phyllo anxiety is to dive right in with some exposure therapy, and I have a truly foolproof recipe to start you on the path to recovery. Portokalopita is meant to be broken in the first place.
A Break-Out Success
My original motivation for making portokalopita was to use up scraps of leftover phyllo dough from previous projects. Since I can’t possibly throw away perfectly good food, those random shards sat in the freezer for a good long time before being unearthed. Dried out beyond their ideally pliable state, there was no separating the sheet to make a flaky layered pastry. Instead, portokalopita encourages you to rip or crumble them all up, drop them into a baking pan, and smother them with a yogurt-based custard. Absolutely zero finesse is required, you can use up all your extra phyllo scraps, and there’s no way to mess it up.
Proof Of The Pudding
Thought often described as a cake, the texture is much denser and more moist, like a rich baked pudding. A heavy pour of olive oil creates body and substance, cut by the bright acidity of fresh citrus. My version skips the eggs, of course, and cuts the sugar and oil substantially. It’s traditional to make a separate orange syrup to pour on top, but a light drizzle of vegan honey does the trick for my taste buds. I would never claim my version to be remotely authentic, but I do confidently declare it to be delicious.
Get Your Grub On With Crosnes
If it’s vegan, I’ll try anything. In fact, the more unfamiliar the ingredient; the more unlikely the pairing; the more visually unappealing, the more I want it. Which brings me to crosnes.
What Are Crosnes?
Tiny, pale corkscrew tubers, you’d be forgiven if you thought they were a juicy grubs you just unearthed from your garden. Also known as the Chinese artichoke, Japanese artichoke, Chirogi, Gan Lu Zi, 甘露子, knotroot, or artichoke betony, they originated in Japan, but really took root in China, where they were used medicinally as a cold remedy and general respiratory cure-all. Eventually they traveled to Europe in the 1880s, and were named for Crosne, a town near Paris, France. Still relatively unknown, crosnes are very difficult and labor-intensive to harvest, taking them almost entirely off the market.
What Do Crosnes Taste Like?
Crisp like water chestnuts with a subtly sweet, nutty flavor similar to Jerusalem artichokes, they’re best eaten raw or lightly cooked. Boiled or stewed, they lose their shape, melting away into unidentifiable starchy sludge. Don’t lose the opportunity to enjoy what makes them so special -even if part of that is evocative of young larvae. Just trust the process.
Cooking With Crosnes
Crosnes can be cooked in a variety of ways, most notably by sautéing, roasting, flash-frying, and pickling. No matter the method, be careful not to overcook them, using high heat and short cook times. Always wash thoroughly to remove the dirt, but peeling is optional, largely for aesthetics. That said, the skin comes right off once blanched in boiling water for 60 seconds, plunged into ice water, then simply scrubbed well.
- To sauté crosnes, heat some olive oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the crosnes and cook for 5-7 minutes, or until they are tender-crisp.
- To roast crosnes, preheat your oven to 425 degrees F (200 degrees C). Toss the crosnes with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread them out on a baking sheet and roast for 10-15 minutes, or until they are tender and slightly browned.
- To deep-fry crosnes, heat oil to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Fry the crosnes for 2-3 minutes, or until they are golden brown.
Beet-Pickled Crosnes with Garlic and Dill
Serving Suggestions
Though they do have an affinity for Asian and French seasonings, don’t be afraid to experiment with different flavor combinations. Here are a few simple ideas for how to apply that inspiration:
- Salads, chopped or thinly sliced
- Stir fried, with other vegetables and/or noodles
- Pickles, on charcuterie boards, cocktails, or sandwiches
- Pasta, tossed with a butter sauce, red wine ragu, or creamy alfredo
Creamed Crosnes
I’d like to think the crosnes are the filet Mignon of root vegetables; luxurious, expensive, and reserved for special occasions. That’s why I thought a classic steakhouse preparation suited them well, paired with my favorite mycoprotein steak. Speckled with both black and aleppo pepper, bathed in a creamy mustard-spiked sauce, they’re immersed in a warm, fresh sort of spice that hits right in the sinuses.
Naturally, you could happily skip the fancy plating and toss in some tender chickpeas or baked tofu to make a wholly satisfying one-pot meal instead. If you’re lucky enough to find crosnes, if you even chose to cook them at all, a singular savory indulgence awaits
Not Mincing Words
For those who know, the mere mention picadillo conjures up images of a warm, cozy kitchen, saucepan bubbling away on the stove, filling the whole house with the scent of simmering spices. Humble, hearty, and always comforting, it’s put protein at the center of the plate for centuries. Now, combining modern technology and culinary traditions, it’s time that picadillo goes plant-based.
What Is Picadillo?
Though often described as a beef hash, some might argue that it has more in common with American sloppy Joe’s or chili con carne. The word itself comes from the Spanish picar, or “to mince,” alluding to the roughly chopped meat. Ingredients vary wildly depending on who you ask, but common, unifying factors usually include some sort of tomatoes, onions, and peppers.
Picadillo Goes Vegan
While old-fashioned picadillo preparations are limited to beef and/or pork, there aren’t any constraints to the creative possibilities with plant-based alternatives. Staying true to the humility and lack of pretension in the original dish, I went with classic textured vegetable protein, also known as TVP or TSP (textured soy protein; same difference.) The problem is that by itself, TVP is incredibly bland.
That’s where Sugimoto Shiitake Powder comes into play! A small sprinkle adds incredible depth of savory flavor that tastes downright meaty, without any overt mushroom flavor. To up the ante, I love adding finely minced shiitake caps or stems, but this approach is perfect for picky eaters and mushroom haters. You get all of the umami, amplifying the inherent richness of the tomatoes, olives, and spices, with zero downsides.
This same trick works beautifully when using fresh or frozen vegan ground beef, too. Cooking it plain, straight out of the package might taste good, but adding some Sugimoto Shiitake Powder will make it great.
Regional Variations Of Picadillo
There’s no wrong way to make picadillo; it’s one of those dishes where everyone and their grandma makes it just a little bit differently. There are, however, distinctive styles found in specific regions:
- Cuban picadillo, which I model my version after, is briny and rich, with capers, green olives, and sweet raisins for contrast.
- Puerto Rican picadillo starts with sofrito as its base and is highly seasoned with adobo and sazon.
- Mexican picadillo typically includes many more vegetables, such as potatoes, carrots, and green peas.
- Filipino picadillo has ample umami thanks to the inclusion of soy sauce and fish sauce, and is often more soupy or stew-like in consistency.
Plenty of overlap and fusion exists between each version. It’s a recipe ripe to mix and match, pick your favorite elements, and make your own!
Serving Suggestions
Prepping your picadillo is only the first of many delicious decisions. It’s an ideal entree for meal prep since its versatility lends it to myriad serving suggestions. A few of my favorites include:
- Wrapped up in a burrito
- On top of tacos or nachos
- Sandwiched inside a torta or burger bun
- Alongside rice, mashed potatoes, fried plantains, polenta, or pasta
- Stuffed inside peppers, cabbage rolls, empanadas, croquettes, or frittatas
Don’t Rush The Process
When making picadillo, the most important ingredient is time. Slowly simmering, patiently, gently, allows all these seemingly disparate elements to meld into a harmonious whole. That’s not say it can’t be a quick fix meal, at least on the second time around. In fact, I prefer eating the leftovers, which keep brilliantly in the fridge for up to a week, or in the freezer for 4 to 6 months, becoming even more flavorful and balanced as they sit.
I’m not going to mince words here; this meatless picadillo is your new favorite meal waiting to happen, no matter how you serve it up.
