Category: Uncategorized

Cool Beans

Everything old is new again, as evidenced by the heirloom bean renaissance. As a person with no family heirlooms to speak of, I’m quite content to accept this treasure trove of ancient legumes in lieu of jewelry, furniture, or fine China. Health is wealth, after all, and tepary beans especially are certainly rich in nutrition, flavor, and culinary inspiration. These stunning onyx gems were inherited from a generous friend, AKA chosen family, quickly becoming my favorite living legacy to receive.

A Brief History of Tepary Beans

Hardy and robust, these small seeds have managed to thrive in the harsh, arid conditions of southwestern United States and Mexico, surviving drought and blights since before colonization began. Where common beans (p. vulgaris), lima beans (p. lunatus), and runner beans (p. coccineus) would wither into dust, tepary beans managed take root, establishing themselves as a critical staple of the native peoples. At times of scarcity, they accounted for nearly half of the dietary protein for the indigenous communities that cultivated them.

Fifty Shades of Brown

Although brown tepary beans seem to be most common today, they’re incredibly diverse and grow in at least forty-six distinct colors, including white, brown, beige, black, and mottled, with some plants delivering monotone harvests while others produce a full spectrum. It turns out that the black tepary beans I got my hands on are the most elusive, developed by separating the black seeds before planting the other white or brown seeds separately over the course of many generations.

What Do Tepary Beans Taste Like?

Flavors vary based on color, with white teparies tasting sweeter and more mild than nutty brown or deeply earthy black tepary beans. Across the board, their texture is consistently firm, meaty, and sturdy. These are beans that won’t fall apart under pressure, remaining distinct even after long cooking times. That makes them ideal for adding into salads, salsas, tacos, burritos, braises, soups, chili; anywhere you want whole, well-defined beans.

Nutritional Prowess of Tepary Beans

Historians and nutritionists agree that tepary beans are one of the healthiest legumes around, easily explaining why it was such a staple for aboriginal tribes, and makes the case for renewed enthusiasm today. Tepary beans have more protein and higher fiber than ordinary beans and a lower glycemic index (41-44), so you’ll get more bang for your bean buck with every meal. Especially when compared to meat, this plant-protein is a boon for anyone who wants to eat and feel better in the long run.

How To Cook Tepary Beans

Being drought-resistant can make tepary beans somewhat cooking-resistant too. Their tough outer skins refuse to yield under quick cooking conditions, so patience is key. If you have a slow cooker or pressure cooker, now is the time to plug it in. Cover the beans with a generous amount of water, adding more throughout the cooking process if needed, especially on the stove, if it evaporates too quickly.

Aromatics like whole garlic cloves, halved onions, bay leaves, and kombu, are excellent additions to infuse more savory flavor, though not mandatory. Always add salt after cooking, not before, or else they may never soften sufficiently.

  • In a pressure cooker, unsoaked tepary beans can cook in 35 minutes with a natural release.
  • On the stove top, unsoaked tepary beans may take 1 1/2 to 2 hours to cook when simmered over low heat, while beans soaked overnight may take 45 to 60 minutes.
  • Using a slow cooker set to low, unsoaked beans will take 6 to 8 hours, or 3 to 4 hours on high.
  • Oven braising times are very similar to the stove top method, taking roughly 1 1/2 to 2 hours to cook unsoaked tepary beans all the way through.

Drain thoroughly and enjoy hot, cold, or at room temperature.

Heirlooms with Style and Substance

Go forth and eat your heirlooms! Tepary beans are a link to the past that are every bit as vital and relevant in the present day. Instead of some dusty relics that sit on the shelf, these beans have real benefits, proving their value above and beyond inert precious metals and stones. Find yourself some tepary beans today, and start a new family legacy.

Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Austin Takes The Cake

Cake is one of the most vital commodities we have as a modern society. Hallmarks of a truly advanced civilization include shared communication, complex division of labor, record keeping, advanced technologies, and an abundance of accessible, diverse sources for cake. Don’t bother checking your text books for that, it’s just a known fact. From ancient Egypt to medieval Europe, through the Industrial Revolution and today’s contemporary kitchen, cake has evolved with changing tastes and available ingredients, but remained a critical symbol of celebration, comfort, and creativity. After baking countless cakes myself, I wanted to let someone else take the wheel. Thankfully, local bakers here in Austin, TX have taken up the call to duty with aplomb.

Ground Rules: It’s No Cake Walk

Once a rare treat for the elite, truly anyone can have their cake and eat it, too. Flour and sugar is in ample supply, which means that there’s more cake than ever for all to enjoy. For the sake of fair evaluation, I need to lay down the law for what qualifies here.

  • It must come from a brick-and-mortar or regular popup, not a home business without a physical location. It breaks my heart to lay down the law because there are so many incredibly talented local bakers for hire, but this is all about the immediate gratification of getting cake whenever your heart desires.
  • Vegan options must always be available, not just a possibility for pre-orders. Some bakeries need advanced notice to make an eggless, dairy-free cake, and that’s okay, but a big bummer when I just want to pop in for something sweet.
  • Single serving cake is a must, whether that means cupcakes or slices. None of this all-or-nothing, whole cake only business. It’s not a pizza that you could reasonably take down in a day or two. My stomach hurts just thinking about all that buttercream.
  • Cheesecake doesn’t count. I know, this is a hot take that may stir up controversy, especially because “cake” is right there in the name, but I’m focusing only on flour-based, frosted cakes for this round. Sorry, cheesecake-lovers.
  • Mousse cakes are disqualified for the same reason as above.
  • No muffins, obviously. They may look like cupcakes but I can assure you, they are not. End of discussion.

Best Plant-Based Cakes In Austin

Cakes, like snowflakes, are unique and ephemeral. No two are exactly alike; here today, gone tomorrow, thrilling for the discovery of something new and heartbreaking for the loss of beloved favorites. Flavors are never static, changing more frequently than most standard menu items, so your mileage may vary when you visit. Venturing out with an open mind and a rampant sweet tooth, these talented local bakers won’t disappoint.

Unicorniverse – Redefining the entire category of vegan bakeries in the greater Austin area, Unicorniverse takes fine patisserie to greater heights than ever before. Styled after European cafes with delicate macarons, flaky croissants, and even high tea services on demand, this is the place to go for gourmet treats. Naturally, their cakes reach those same lofty heights, immaculately layered with housemade jams, curds, buttercreams, and ganache, with all the attention to detail you’d expect from high-end artisanal goods. I won’t even begin to list possible flavors you might encounter because it would be a never-ending catalog of temptations. Just go, select the first slice you see in the case, and don’t look back. If you’re anything like me, you’ll end up ordering all of them otherwise.

Zucchini Kill Bakery – We’ve advanced beyond the dark ages where “I can’t believe this is vegan!” was a common refrain after trying vegan cake, but the same isn’t always a given when it comes to gluten-free baked goods. Especially when both dietary restrictions come into play, it’s downright stunning to sink your teeth into fluffy, tender, and moist cake like this. Indulge nostalgic cravings for childhood snack cakes like Cream Coffin cakes (modeled after Twinkies) and Rebel Swrrrls (mini Swiss rolls in the style of Yodels), there’s also a plethora of grown up cupcake flavors, constantly changing with the seasons. S’mores, cookies and cream, triple chocolate, churro, carrot cake, and key lime are just a few cupcake options you might find waiting for you in this punk rock bakery. Now with three dedicated storefronts, their treats are also sold in many other cafes and restaurants across the city.

Fat Cats Organic Coffee & Desserts – Offering 100% plant-based treats, savory eats, coffee, and ice cream, the life of a fat cat is a good one indeed. Full size and mini cupcakes are perennial staples, with gluten-free options for most variants as well. Rich and moist, never dry, they’re baked fresh with organic ingredients and obvious attention to detail. With tender crumb and light whipped frosting that is perfectly balanced, not just sugary, you can’t go wrong with any flavor du jour.

Mr. Natural – Family-owned and operated since 1988, this old school vegetarian enclave has been serving plant-based Tex-Mex even before it was cool. The only thing more impressive than the savory specialties that will keep you well fed from morning to night is their extensive baking operation, which easily dwarfs many standalone operations. From Mexican sweet breads to American fudgy brownies, there’s an incredible range of sweets for every craving. The cakes, of course, are unparalleled. In fact, the Chocolate Tres Leches has won awards from mainstream media, for good reason. Additionally, you’ll find an assortment of cupcakes and cake slices in a rainbow of colors on any given day, with consideration given to gluten-free friends as well. On last visit, there were no less than a dozen cake options ready and waiting, so for anyone with decision paralysis, you might be here a while.

Thai Fresh – Thai cuisine isn’t typically associated with lofty tiered cakes and homey baked goods, but Thai Fresh is its own unique entity. After polishing off your panang curry, make sure you save space for their signature three-layer stacked slices that rotate regularly. Frequently features include crowd-pleasing German chocolate, carrot, funfetti, and coconut caramel cake, depending on the day. Everything is baked in a gluten-free kitchen and vegan selections are clearly labeled, ensuring both safety and satisfaction.

Bouldin Creek Cafe – Serving up the pastry stylings of Celeste’s Best for dessert, the lone Pumpkin Carrot Cake on the menu tastes homemade in the best way possible. Almost invisible shreds of carrot melt away into the moist, dense crumb, flecked with chopped walnuts and redolent of warm autumnal spices. Cream cheese frosting crowns each unassuming square, and while the cake itself would be delightful without it, that extra sweetness is ideal for balancing out with a bold cold brew coffee. It’s truly a timeless treat.

Captain Quack’s Coffeehouse, Lady Quack’s Cakery, Quack’s 43rd Street Bakery – Originally known as Captain Quackenbush’s Intergalactic Dessert Company & Espresso Cafe when it was first founded in 1983, this iconic Austin institution has sprouted into three locations dotting the city north to south, with at least slightly less wordy monikers. The desserts, however, are still a mouthful, with absolutely stellar muffins and cookies in full display. For vegan options, you can always rely on their Blueberry Lemon or Chocolate Ganache cupcakes. While the chocolate cake seems to get more attention, also frequently available by the slice and a full 10-inch round ready to go, the delicate fruity flavor of the former is a greater prize in my eyes. Covered with a dense plume of pale lilac buttercream, it has a gentle hint of sweet citrus, balanced and invigorating.

Cupprimo – Though the list of vegan flavors available for special orders is extensive, including pint-sized mini cupcakes that are perfect for kid’s parties or little cravings, the option for walk-in is limited to either chocolate or vanilla, depending on the day. Fortunately, focusing on just one plant-based flavor allows these bakers to consistently deliver on quality. Topped with pink vanilla frosting that I could have sworn had a hint of strawberry flavor, the spongey vanilla cake beneath has the ideal texture, both most and fluffy. For those who suffer from decision paralysis, it may be an added benefit that you can’t overthink this choice.

The Carillon – Put on your nice shoes and fix up your hair for this special occasion outing. The Carillon is a classy spot for elegant, upscale New American fare, tucked away inside the AT&T Hotel and Conference Center. Though not patently vegan-friendly, the chefs are happy to accommodate, especially with advanced notice. However, we’re not here to talk about what goes into a four-course meal. Walk-ins are welcomed during dinner hours, which is exactly when the illustrious Vegan Black Velvet Cake makes an appearance on the dessert menu. A surprising twist for an otherwise omnivorous establishment, pronounced thought, care, and energy went into such a composed plate. While menus shift seasonally, I’ve been assured that a vegan dessert will always be available.

Sugar Mama’s Bakeshop – Life is like a box of cupcakes; you never know what you’re going to get. This much is true at Sugar Mama’s, where you can rest assured you’ll get at least one vegan option for immediate gratification, sometimes two or three, in any number of possible flavor combinations. My personal favorites tend to involve cookies, such as the Cookie Monster or Cookies and Cream, but don’t be afraid to take a gamble with whatever is in store. If all else fails, their vegan cookies themselves are always excellent.

Sprinkles – Hope you like red velvet because that’s what you’re getting! Fortunately, this one isn’t an afterthought, standing up to scrutiny after many years on the menu of this national chain. Emblazoned with an edible “V” on top, this is the only vegan cupcake available at Sprinkles. True to the southern classic, it has a tender, moist crumb with a hint of cocoa flavor, topped by a fluffy tofu-based cream cheese frosting. As an added bonus, you can snag one for free on your birthday when you sign up for their loyalty program.

Suga’s Cakery – Speaking of red velvet, though technically out in Pflugerville, Suga’s Cakery is just barely outside of city limits, granting them an honorable mention. Their Southern Red Velvet is both vegan and gluten-free, with a surprising density and heft that gives it the staying power of a full meal. For my tastes, the vanilla is a bit lacking, bearing a distinctive rice flour flavor and gritty texture. As long as you’re seeing red when you hit the store, you’ll be a happy camper.

Selling Like Hot Cakes

cake-making is both an art and a science, especially when you take eggs and dairy out of the equation. With endless flavors, designs, and techniques, cakes are edible canvases for culinary creativity. Beyond the simple pleasures of good taste, they represent moments of joy, milestones, and happy memories. Whether it’s a classic chocolate cake, a delicate chiffon, or an extravagant wedding cake, each slice tells a story.

Hannah (BitterSweet)2 Comments

Chillingly Good Chili

Is there a more American dish than chili? While most people think of hotdogs and burgers as quintessentially patriotic foods, both have clearly established roots in other cultures. Records of the first pot of chili, on the other hand, can be traced back to what is now known as Texas in the early 1700s.

Like most classic comfort foods, there’s good reason why it’s survived and thrived through centuries of changing tastes: Affordable, versatile, and obviously, delicious, it hits all the high notes every time. For that same reason, I have a number of different chili recipes already. Like chocolate chip cookies, though, there’s always room for one more.

A Meatless Mix For Meat-Lovers

Chili con carne has long been the gold standard for chili aficionados. No beans, no fancy flourishes, just meat, meat, and more meat- Oh, and some chilies for good measure. Classic Americana. It’s interesting to see how my own approach has slowly skewed back to this more traditional approach.

Rather than a glorified vegetable stew, I’ve come to appreciate chili for being this simple, basic foundation to embellish after the fact, and only if warranted. It helps that there are better meat alternatives than ever, although that’s far from necessary to make an award-winning vegan chili recipe. In my opinion, the combination of old school TVP (Textured Vegetable Protein) and new school umami can run circles around pricey prepared beefy grounds.

Shiitake Stems Bring The Flavor

One of my favorite “life hacks” when using Sugimoto Shiitake is to save the stems for future use. Unlike most dried shiitake on the market, Sugimoto Shiitake are such high quality that even the stems are fully edible. Remove the very bottom part if hard, and the rest is packed with even more umami power than the caps. Finely minced, they transform into a compelling ground meat facsimile all on their own.

Hearty And Healthy

Thanks to the power of umami, it doesn’t scream “MUSHROOM CHILI,” despite being largely mushroom-based. In fact, it’s stunningly meaty, with a hearty texture that really could trick an omnivore. It makes me want to enter a chili contest just to see the stunned reactions when the recipe is unveiled.

Incredibly rich while also low in fat, balanced by the bright acidity of tomatoes, this is now my go-to for cold days, or tiring days, or days when the pantry is pretty bare. I could go on to list all the reasons why it’s the best vegan chili recipe around, but then I may never finish this post.

Spice Things Up

Chili is one of the most adaptable dishes around. You can make a basic batch that’s fairly mild, adding hot sauce to single servings as desired, or bring the heat in layers while cooking. Consider adding any of the following for more fire power:

  • Fresh or pickled jalapeños for a bright, fresh spice
  • Guajillo or chipotles in adobo for a more smoky flavor
  • Serrano, habanero, or pequin for a sharp, bold finish

That’s just the bare basics. Any chilies or peppers, whether fresh, dried, ground, canned, or otherwise preserved are welcome at this party! You could even just double down on the chili powder and call it a day. It’s only a matter of personal preference.

Chill Out With Chili

Chili is a quintessential staple for any cook to master. Thankfully, that’s not a difficult task. In minutes, anyone can meld aromatic spices into a complex bouquet that lingers on your palate, as warm as a happy memory. A great chili is an ideal one-pot meal, no garnishes needed, but versatile enough to be enjoyed with cornbread, rice, tortilla chips, or so much more. Is there a bad pairing for chili? Personally, I have yet to find out.

Continue reading “Chillingly Good Chili” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

No Bake, No Sweat

Soaring temperatures are a given on a typical summer’s day. As the mercury inevitably pushes higher, breaking new records with every passing season, the desire to spend time in the kitchen plummets proportionally. Unfortunately, those with a sweet tooth know that nothing will quell the craving for a satisfying sweet treat. It may very well be raining fire because unless it’s an actual apocalypse, dessert still must be served- And in that case, perhaps even more so.

Why is it so hard to just get motivated and make the same tried-and-true staples that always hit the spot? Chocolate chip cookies are foolproof, but this simple indulgence takes on a greater level of complexity when you factor in the unique stumbling blocks of summer. There’s the basic issue of turning on the oven, subjecting oneself to a punishing sauna even more brutal than the sun’s rays, and the time it takes for preheating, baking, and finally cooling down draws the suffering out to an interminable torture.

It’s also been proven that we’re less ambitious and productive during these midyear months, beckoned away from work by tempting beaches, hikes, or just lazy afternoons with friends. This is when most people go on vacations, after all, whether that’s a physical journey or just a mental respite. Convincing yourself to work harder while everyone else has all the fun is a losing battle that no one really should have to fight.

Want to end any sweltering day with a flourish? Pull out a towering icebox cake, layered with ripe, lightly spiced peaches, whipped coconut cream, and softened graham crackers. Despite the name, there’s no cake here and it doesn’t come out of the freezer! Rather, this old-school moniker came from an age when the only source of refrigeration was from a poorly insulated box, much like a picnic cooler, stuffed with rapidly melting ice. This modern take on no-bake cake will come as a happy surprise when it lands on the table, ready to slice and serve with minimal effort.

So go ahead, take it easy. Escape the heat, simplify your menu, but perish the thought of skipping dessert. No-bake desserts exist for just such occasions, rewarding a minimum amount of effort with sweet gratification.

Continue reading “No Bake, No Sweat” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Ideas in Phyllosophy

For a ready-made ingredient that’s widely found in mainstream markets, phyllo dough seems to produce a disproportionate amount of angst. Otherwise savvy bakers blanch at the idea of working with the delicate pastry sheets, and while it does take a gentle touch, most fears are largely overblown. It’s not as if they’ll shatter if you merely look at them wrong. The best way to overcome any phyllo anxiety is to dive right in with some exposure therapy, and I have a truly foolproof recipe to start you on the path to recovery. Portokalopita is meant to be broken in the first place.

A Break-Out Success

My original motivation for making portokalopita was to use up scraps of leftover phyllo dough from previous projects. Since I can’t possibly throw away perfectly good food, those random shards sat in the freezer for a good long time before being unearthed. Dried out beyond their ideally pliable state, there was no separating the sheet to make a flaky layered pastry. Instead, portokalopita encourages you to rip or crumble them all up, drop them into a baking pan, and smother them with a yogurt-based custard. Absolutely zero finesse is required, you can use up all your extra phyllo scraps, and there’s no way to mess it up.

Proof Of The Pudding

Thought often described as a cake, the texture is much denser and more moist, like a rich baked pudding. A heavy pour of olive oil creates body and substance, cut by the bright acidity of fresh citrus. My version skips the eggs, of course, and cuts the sugar and oil substantially. It’s traditional to make a separate orange syrup to pour on top, but a light drizzle of vegan honey does the trick for my taste buds. I would never claim my version to be remotely authentic, but I do confidently declare it to be delicious.

Continue reading “Ideas in Phyllosophy” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments