Tag: whole grains

Endless Einkorn Pastabilities

I very nearly destroyed my stand mixer trying to make einkorn pasta. I’m no stranger to the art of pasta making thanks to a brief but immersive obsession during COVID19, so I had full confidence that this simple experiment would be a wild success.

I was wildly wrong.

Wads of wet, sticky, yet impossibly thick dough clogged the extruding attachment from top to bottom, inexorably stuck in pasta purgatory. No amount of prodding could convince it to come out, nor additional flour, water, or even oil. Only time could heal this wound, letting the einkorn paste dry up to a point where I could chisel it out a few days later. I vowed then and there that I would never make einkorn pasta again. Fortunately for me and you, I don’t have to.

Buy, Don’t DIY

Grand Teton Ancient Grains, my favorite resource for whole grains and the instigators of my whole einkorn infatuation, now make luxurious long strands of einkorn angel hair, spaghetti, and linguine. This stuff is the real deal, made with 100% einkorn semolina and nothing else. No filler, no nonsense. That means they pack a punch, nutritionally speaking, with more than twice the amount of protein as standard white flour pasta. It’s a good thing they’re packed in two-pound bulk bags because I can’t keep my hands off of these beauties.

Bronze Takes First Place

Bronze-cut pasta is the gold standard for quality pasta production, pioneered by the Italians in the 17th century. Otherwise known as trafilata al bronzo, the bronze dies create a rougher surface as the dough is extruded. That means the resulting noodles have a more satisfying bite and are better suited to capturing and holding on to whatever sauces you throw at them. The technique fell out of favor as modern manufacturing demanded faster turnaround times, but the difference is obvious. Modern bronze-cut pasta exemplifies a philosophy of patience and respect for ingredients without having to say a word.

Taste Beyond Compare

While the deep flaxen hue may look like standard whole wheat, the flavor is anything but. Subtly sweet and delicate, there’s none of the off-putting bitterness that the bran of modern wheat can impart. Naturally buttery, honeyed, and slightly toasted, it has a softer, rounder flavor that doesn’t dominate sauces. Einkorn pasta gives you the best of all worlds.

Guardian Angels

Angel hair is typically my last choice when cravings come calling, but this version grants it a massive upgrade on the noodle hierarchy. After a mere two minutes in the water, they’re already supple and ready to serve, yet stronger than the average gossamer strands. Tender without collapsing, delicate without disappearing, I finally understand the enduring appeal of this much maligned noodle.

Spaghetti Theory

Einkorn spaghetti invites a bolder approach. Thicker and more robust, it has the structure to stand up to assertive flavors and sturdier mix-ins without losing its elegance. This is the pasta I reached for when making Dirty Martini Pasta, where briny olives, sharp citrus, and glossy olive oil demand a noodle with both backbone and nuance. Einkorn’s naturally earthy flavor softens the high notes, keeping the dish balanced rather than abrasive. Each bite feels cohesive; salty, silky, and just indulgent enough to honor such sophisticated cocktail inspirations.

Lingering Over Linguine

Wider lengths of linguine possess a certain grounded grandeur. Like slightly flattened ribbons, it has a natural grace that makes it feel composed even before sauce enters the picture. It holds space beautifully, lending a hearty bite to any dish it stars in, and yes, it will easily steal the spotlight. This is the kind of pasta that invites intention, rewarding thoughtful pairings rather than excess.

Eat Like a Rockefeller

That balance made it the obvious choice for making Oyster Mushrooms Pastafeller, a plant-forward nod to the flavors of Oysters Rockefeller. Feathery oyster mushrooms take on the role of velvety seared seafood, bolstered by briny capers and kelp granules, while herbs, aromatics, and richness envelope the whole dish. Al dente linguine entwines in a comforting tangle, paying proper homage to the inspiration without attempting imitation.

While I’m not happy about the original pasta maker mishap, it does give me a greater appreciation for the artistry that goes into a ready-made solution. The difference is knowing when to let go of DIY bravado and trust true craftsmanship. That’s what made Oyster Mushroom Pastafeller possible and ready on a whim, without bringing out the heavy artillery. Grand Teton Ancient Grains delivers einkorn pasta that honors the grain without asking you to wrestle it into submission. Sometimes the smartest move isn’t trying harder, but choosing better.

Continue reading “Endless Einkorn Pastabilities” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

In a Loaf Far, Farro Away

Whole wheat bread is out; farro bread is in. As we turn the pages to a new calendar year, it’s time for a fresh start, and a new approach to ancient grains.

When “Whole Wheat” Isn’t the Whole Story

Technically speaking, farro also qualifies as “whole wheat”, and more specifically, three types of whole wheat, as we touched upon when discussing emmer, the most popular type of farro. However, generic “whole wheat bread” most likely employs hard red wheat, which makes up approximately 40% of total U.S. wheat production. Nutty, robust, and high in protein, it’s no mystery why it became the poster child for wholesome baking, particularly following the counterculture movement of the 1970s, rejecting the processed white loaves proliferating on grocery store shelves. At the same time, it became the sworn enemy of many children bringing packed lunches to school, discovering those dark, dense, and bitter slabs imprisoning wan fillings, bereft of all fun. Whole wheat had soured many generations on the idea of a more wholesome loaf.

In an attempt to elevate the profile (and gluten structure) of whole wheat bread, many brands started producing “whole grain” bread, which was mostly white bread with a bit of color. The fact that they included any meager amount of whole grains gave them the legal grounds to use the label, much to the detriment of flavor and nutrition. If you ask me, they just started out by using the wrong whole wheat all along.

Farro For All

Farro bread isn’t something you’re likely to find in stores, nor is farro flour. That’s where Grand Teton Ancient Grains comes in. They have all three types of farro in stock; einkorn, emmer, and spelt. Better yet, you can grab a bag of ready-milled all-purpose einkorn flour so you can start preheating the oven that much sooner. Buying in bulk does make a compelling case for having your own grain mill, though, especially for breaking down those whole spelt berries. Consider it the best gift you didn’t get for the holidays and treat yourself to a better New Year.

Unlike modern hard red wheat, which has been bred for high yields, consistent protein levels, and machine-friendly milling, farro varieties hold on to traits that industrial agriculture left behind. Emmer and einkorn, for example, have naturally higher levels of carotenoids, which contribute to their flaxen color and subtle sweetness. Spelt tends to be more water-soluble, which is why dough made with it can feel slack even when the protein percentage looks high on paper. Their husked kernels also protect the grain from environmental stress, which is great for biodiversity but makes them harder to process. Grand Teton Ancient Grains is keeping history alive by putting these grains back on the table. You can truly taste that difference.

The Farro Trifecta in Action

All-purpose einkorn flour is the key to success. Soft as freshly fallen snow, it lightens the crumb both in texture and color, not to mention that stunning golden hue it imparts. Edging in on brioche territory, you’d think there was egg in the mix for all its richness. To that majority component, whole spelt flour adds an earthy undertone, grounding the flavor with notes of toasted walnuts and a subtle minerality. Most noticeable, whole cooked emmer berries are woven throughout the crumb, stealing the spotlight with their irresistibly chewy, hearty texture that adds a satisfying heft to every bite.

Altogether, it’s sturdy enough to slice thinly for sandwiches, and still soft enough to cut into thick slabs for dunking into soups, or simply eating plain. Truth be told, I ate roughly 75% of this particular loaf untoasted and unadorned, aside from the thinnest glaze of vegan butter smeared on top.

Rave-Worthy Results

I’m terminally intolerant of breathless hyperbole, deliberately honing my praise to a more reasonable tenor, but this one is hard to be modest about. Of all the loaves I’ve made, this is honestly one of my top five favorites, at least. Maybe even top three, but I don’t want to hurt anyone’s feelings. It’s just as easy to whip up as any other humble sandwich bread, while having nuanced, complex flavor that you’d think could only come from a 24- or 36-hour ferment.

Better Living Through Baking

Make your New Year’s resolution to bake more bread from scratch. It’s a tangible, achievable goal with myriad benefits for health, sustainability, frugality, and honestly, happiness. Even on my worst days, a slice of warm farro bread has never failed to buoy my spirits.

Continue reading “In a Loaf Far, Farro Away” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments

Emmer-gence

“Emmer” may not ring a bell, but I have a feeling you know more about it than you think. Just flip its name tag over to the better known moniker of farro, and it’s like we’re talking about a whole different grain. Yes, misunderstandings about the title abound, so it’s long overdue that we set the record straight. Emmer is an ancient grain that deserves a spot on every modern table.

In a Land Far, Farro Away

What’s truly wild is how few people understand what exactly farro is. Still on the fringes of mainstream grocery stores, granted, it’s not at the top of the average eater’s grocery list. Farro became trendy in the US sometime around the 90s and 00s, alongside the boom of Italian imports like balsamic vinegar and olive oil that didn’t taste like rancid gasoline. However, what makes things more confusing is that no one grain is defined as farro. Rather, there are three types of farro:

  • Farro grande; spelt
  • Farro piccolo; einkorn
  • Farro medio; emmer

Emmer is the grain most commonly referred to as farro, when no other qualifiers can be found. Farro wheat, which is also classified as durum wheat, is defined by the way it grows, with two rows of grain on opposite sides of a single stalk.

Conveniently, Grand Teton Ancient Grains sells all three types, so you can see (and taste) the difference for yourself!

Emmer Through the Ages

Botanical semantics out of the way, emmer is one of the preeminent whole grains. Known as “Mother Wheat,” it was one of the first grains to be domesticated in the Near East over 10,000 years ago. A staple crop in ancient Israel and Egypt, it spread to Italy following the Roman invasion around 50 BCE, where it took root in the culture and remains a top crop to this day. The rest of Europe developed a taste for this high-protein whole grain as well, especially when it comes to bread making in Germany and Switzerland. It’s also a crucial ingredient in Ethiopia, where it’s enjoyed primarily as a hot porridge.

Emmer Is Good Eats

Flavor always comes first in my kitchen, which is why emmer has become a fast favorite around here, too. Nutty and complex, there’s a subtle taste that reminds me of fresh almonds when cooked, adding a gently sweet finish that tastes both honeyed and malted. Chewy and robust, the whole wheat berry stands up well to long-simmered soups and stews, never falling apart under pressure. That also makes it an excellent addition to salads, both hot and cold, and keeps beautifully for meal prep and travel. When ground into flour, it makes silky smooth batters, though it can create denser breads due to a lesser gluten content, compared to modern wheat varieties.

Nutritional Benefits for People and the Planet

Prized for its ability to thrive in poor soils and harsh climates, emmer is beloved by farmers as a sustainable superstar. It generally needs fewer chemical inputs like fertilizers and pesticides, and is more drought-tolerant than modern wheat. As beneficial to the planet as the people that eat it, consumers can reap the rewards of many trace minerals in every serving, including iron, zinc, magnesium, and niacin. It’s high in protein and fiber, making it a satisfying foundation to any meal. Being that it is a form of wheat, however, it is not gluten-free, and not appropriate for those with celiac disease. Some who are merely intolerant report better digestibility, since it has less gluten than conventional wheat varieties.

Emmer Everyday, in All the Ways

Is there anything that emmer can’t do? Found across cultures and continents, whole and ground, there’s always a place for it at the table.

  • Soups and stews: Perhaps best known in Tuscan zuppa di farro, these sturdy whole grains are the ideal swap for pasta in any minestrone, Italian wedding soup, cacio e pepe, and so much more.
  • Risotto: As a modern twist to the traditional rice dish, farrotto is just plain fun to say. Some renditions favor cracked or pearled emmer for their faster cooking times, and/or soak them in advance to help expedite the process.
  • Salads and pilafs: Served hot, at room temperature, or fully chilled, emmer won’t let you down at dinnertime. Pair it with hearty roasted vegetables or delicate leafy greens and fresh herbs
  • Breads: In India, the flour is known as khapli wheat and is favored for making whole grain roti, dosa, and paratha. Aish baladi, a flatbread very similar to pita, is an core Egyptian delicacy, frequently stuffed or torn into piece for dipping. European loaves often combine it with a sourdough starter for greater loft and nuanced flavor.
  • Sweets: Treats like cookies, pie dough, muffins, cakes, pancakes, and more can all benefit from an emmer underpinning. Dense like most whole wheat flours, it adds heft and a hearty bite, balanced nicely by sugar, and especially the addition of spice.
  • Porridge and hot cereal: Cooked either whole or coarsely ground, emmer makes an excellent breakfast meal. Depending on your preferences, it can be served with savory additions like chickpeas and za’atar, or sweet finishes like fresh berries and maple syrup.
  • Beer and spirits: Though a bit tricky to find in the US, emmer beer has been a brewer’s best friend for millennia. Emmer beer was once one of the healthiest ways to hydrate, before the days of clean water and further filtration. Some distillers take it a step further to make emmer whiskey, though the rarity of those bottles drives a considerable price tag. 

Other notable traditional dishes that defy easy categorization include torta a farro, a savory cake reminiscent of a frittata, arancini di farro, favoring emmer in the typical deep-fried rice ball, and adjar pilaf, an Armenian side dish with mushrooms and onions.

Cooking Tips and Tricks

Whole emmer wheat berries are incredibly forgiving when it comes to cooking. Treat them like beans for the best results; use plenty of water, simmer low and slow, and drain off the excess. Of course, you can always speed things up with a little help from your trusty pressure cooker.

  • On the stove top, start by rinsing 1 cup of whole emmer wheat berries under cold water to remove any dust or debris. Then, place them in a pot with about 3 cups of water and a pinch of salt. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover the pot and let it cook for 45 – 60 minutes, or until the grains are tender but still chewy. If you’re using pearled emmer, the cooking time may be closer to 25 – 30 minutes. Once cooked, drain any excess liquid and fluff the grains with a fork.
  • In a pressure cooker, combine 1 cup of rinsed emmer wheat berries with 2 1/2 cups of water and a pinch of salt. Seal the lid and cook on high pressure for 20 – 25 minutes (or 12 – 15 minutes for pearled). Allow the pressure to release naturally for 10 minutes, then release any remaining pressure manually. Drain any excess liquid if needed, and the grains are ready to use.

Enjoy your emmer right away while still hot, or let cool completely, then store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 5 – 7 days. Consider keeping it in the freezer for long-term storage, up to 6 months, if you’d rather make bigger batches at a time.

Kasha is Out, Emmer is In

With Hanukkah looming right around the corner, Jewish comfort food has been top of mind. Kasha varnishkes aren’t making headlines like latkes and brisket, though they’re just as welcome at the holiday feast as they are on the average, everyday dinner table. “Kasha” means buckwheat and “varnishkes” refers to noodles, typically bow-tie shaped pasta, AKA farfalle in this case, fully explaining the simplicity and universal appeal of the dish. Bolstered by caramelized onions, the earthy whole grains add a comforting weight to al dente semolina pasta. It’s a beloved comfort food of Eastern European Jews through the generations. My unconventional suggestion is to drop the bitter buckwheat in favor of subtly sweet emmer berries.

Emmer Varnishkes are my contribution to the culinary canon. While buckwheat has its own old world charm, it tends to skew more bitter, grassy, and sometimes as earthy as a whole barnyard. The mild sweetness of emmer melds effortlessly with the richness of the dish, bringing out the complex chestnut and freshly popped popcorn notes. The key is to toast the emmer before simmering lightly salted stock, enhancing the naturally nutty flavor locked within. Then, perfectly befitting of the holiday, instead of schmaltz, olive oil honors the Hanukkah miracle, all while adding a peppery brightness.

Far-Out Emmer

If you’re a fan of farro, guess what? You’re already on board with emmer. Next time you see “farro” on a menu or in a recipe, you’ll know the story runs deeper than a trendy grain bowl. Emmer has nourished civilizations for thousands of years, and it’s still feeding our curiosity, and our appetites, today. Whether simmering in a soup pot, baked into bread, or starring in your next grain salad, there’s still so much more to discover with this ancient grain.

Continue reading “Emmer-gence” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)13 Comments

Einkorn to be Wild

Baking with einkorn flour for the first time was a defining moment for me. Part of a larger cookbook photography project, the recipe didn’t stand out as anything particularly noteworthy from the text. Just another simple sandwich bread, differentiated only by this unusual ingredient. Somehow, from that otherwise unremarkable base rose the most glorious golden loaf. Taking on the air of rich, pillowy brioche, without a single egg or pat of butter in sight, I had clearly underestimated this enigmatic ancient grain.

That first loaf lit the spark, but it wasn’t until I began working with Grand Teton Ancient Grains that the flame truly caught. Their einkorn flour, freshly milled and impossibly fragrant, felt alive in a way no bagged flour ever had before. It brought a new depth to every bake, proof that sourcing matters just as much as technique. Going one step further, the availability of whole einkorn berries opened the door to all endless cooking possibilities, sparking my curiosity about this heirloom superfood anew.

What Is Einkorn?

Modern wheat is a newborn baby compared to einkorn. The true, original wheat, einkorn (Triticum monococcum) was first domesticated somewhere between 10,000 – 12,000 years ago in the Fertile Crescent, and it hasn’t changed much since. It’s never been hybridized, never subjected to the industrial tinkering that transformed conventional wheat into the high-yield, high-gluten machine it is today.

The word itself means “single grain,” named for the fact that each spikelet of the plant contains only one grain, rather than the multiple grains found in modern wheat. Small, hardy, and often overlooked, einkorn has persisted through millennia not because of its efficiency, but because of its hardiness, depth of flavor, digestibility, and nutrient-rich profile.

How Is Einkorn Different From Modern Wheat?

Einkorn stands apart in more ways than one. It contains a simpler gluten structure, with fewer chromosomes; 14, compared to modern wheat’s 42. That might sound like a trivia fact better suited for scientists and serious food nerds, but it has real-life implications for how einkorn behaves and how our bodies respond to it.

  • Gluten content: Einkorn does contain gluten, so it’s not safe for those with celiac disease. However, many individuals with non-celiac gluten sensitivities report fewer digestive issues with einkorn than with modern wheat.
  • Absorption: Einkorn has more protein than modern wheat, but less of the type of gluten that gives bread that stretchy, elastic structure. That means softer, more delicate textures in baked goods, perfect for delicate cakes and pastries, but also a steeper learning curve if you’re trying to get a lofty sourdough loaf.
  • Nutrient profile: Einkorn is rich in lutein, zinc, iron, thiamin (B1), and beta-carotene, which is what gives the grain and the resulting flour its beautiful flaxen hue. It’s also notably high in tocotrienols, a form of vitamin E with antioxidant properties. The flour is never bleached or bromated, and when sourced from Grand Teton Ancient Grains, it’s always 100% organic and glyphosate-free.

What Does Einkorn Taste Like?

Subtle yet distinct, einkorn has a sweet, malty, cereal flavor with undertones of honey and toasted almonds. It brings a buttery richness to anything it touches, without ever overwhelming the other ingredients in a dish.

I’ve described it before as the “vanilla bean” of whole grains, not because it tastes like vanilla, but because once you’ve experienced it, it’s hard to bake without it, back to the bland neutrality of the norm. Einkorn makes pancakes fluffier, cookies softer, and waffles more voluptuous. Even a basic biscuit takes on a complexity that feels almost undeserved for something so common.

How Is Einkorn Used?

Einkorn is still considered a specialty ingredient, rarely in mainstream markets but available in abundance online. Flour is only the start.

  • Whole Einkorn berries: The intact grain, with its tough outer husk removed, is ideal for cooking like brown rice. Use it in soups, salads, grain bowls, stuffing, risotto, hot porridge, and so much more. Whole berries can also be freshly milled at home for the most flavorful flour possible.
  • Einkorn flour: Available in both whole grain and all-purpose versions. The whole grain flour includes the bran and germ for maximum nutrition and a rich, nutty taste, while the all-purpose version is sifted for a lighter, more delicate texture. Both are excellent for everything from bread and cookies to pancakes and pasta.
  • Rolled einkorn (flakes): Similar to rolled oats, these cook quickly and are perfect for warm cereals, homemade granola, or baked goods.
  • Puffed einkorn: Airy, crunchy, and lightly toasted, puffed einkorn is often used in cereals, snack bars, or just as a crispy topping for yogurt or smoothie bowls.
  • Sprouted einkorn: Soaking and sprouting the whole berries unlocks an entirely different experience. Sprouted einkorn is easier to digest, with increased bioavailability of nutrients and a slightly sweet, earthy flavor. Use sprouts in salads, sandwiches, or smoothies, or dry and grind them into sprouted flour for even more nutrient-dense baking.
  • Einkorn bran: When the grain is milled and sifted, the outer bran layer is sometimes sold separately. It’s high in fiber and adds a hearty texture and nutrition boost to muffins, breads, and cereals.

Baking with Einkorn Flour: A Different Kind of Dough

All-purpose einkorn can generally be used as a plug-and-play substitute for conventional white all-purpose flour in many baked goods, namely quick breads, muffins, pancakes, waffles, cookies, biscuits, and more. To get the best results when making more demanding recipes like yeast breads and bagels, pastas, and crackers, there are a few quirks to keep in mind:

  1. Hydration: Einkorn flour absorbs less water than modern wheat flour. You may need to reduce the liquid by 25% of the original recipe. It also absorbs liquid more slowly, which is why it may seem stickier than usual at first, before resting. Do not try to compensate by adding more flour instead, as this will just create a dense, disappointing crumb.
  2. Mixing time: No-knead bread is often best suited for einkorn flour. If making a conventional loaf, knead much less than you typically would, and skip the stand mixer. Just 5 minutes of kneading by hand is enough to develop the gluten.
  3. Rising: Because einkorn has a much weaker gluten structure than modern wheat, it’s best to under-proof the dough, allowing it to rise only about 50%. If you let it fully double in size, the dough will likely collapse in the oven, unable to support the gas bubbles during baking.

If you’re just starting out, try replacing a quarter to half of the flour in a trusted recipe with einkorn, and see how it behaves. Then, work your way up as you get more comfortable.

Cooking Whole Einkorn Berries

Whole einkorn berries are plump, chewy, and deeply satisfying in any dish. They cook more quickly than hard wheat berries, even without soaking in advance.

  • Stove Top: Combine 1 cup einkorn berries with 3 cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 25 – 30 minutes, until tender but still al dente. Drain off any excess water
  • Pressure Cooker: Use 1 cup einkorn berries with 2 1/2 cups water. Seal and cook soaked berries on high pressure for 10 minutes. Let the pressure release naturally, and drain any remaining water.

Try it in a warm grain bowl with roasted root vegetables and tahini sauce, or toss it into soups in place of barley or pasta for an earthy, warming boost.

To save cooked einkorn berries for later, cool completely before transferring to an airtight container, which will keep in the fridge for up to 1 week, or in the freezer for up to 6 months. Don’t forget to label it clearly with the contents and date, especially for long term storage!

Ancient Nutrition, Modern Fuel

Everyone’s so crazed about protein these days, but there’s no need to resort to tasteless processed foods; einkorn has it covered. For every 100 grams of whole grain flour, einkorn contains about 14 – 18 grams of protein, which is noticeably higher than standard modern wheat. It also provides around 9 grams of fiber, and roughly 70 grams of complex carbohydrates, making it both filling and beneficial for stabilizing blood sugar. The fat content is modest, about 2.5 grams, from naturally occurring unsaturated fats in the germ.

Where it really shines, though, is in its micronutrient profile. Einkorn offers significantly more iron, zinc, magnesium, and vitamin B6 than conventional wheat, along with exceptionally high levels of lutein (up to 200% more than modern varieties) and beta-carotene, lending it that unmistakable golden color. For an instant upgrade to your whole grain pantry, einkorn delivers on all fronts.

Thankful for Einkorn: A Stuffing Worth Celebrating

When the holiday table calls for comfort, nostalgia, and something a little extra special, whole einkorn berries rise to the occasion. Used in place of the usual wild rice, einkorn makes a surprisingly hearty and flavorful base for stuffing, or dressing, depending on your preferred parlance. Their naturally nutty flavor and chewy texture stand up beautifully to savory herbs, caramelized onions, mushrooms, and toasted pecans, creating a side dish that feels both familiar and entirely new.

When the Thanksgiving table is crowned with a dish of einkorn stuffing, everything else seems to fall into place. The whole berries, plump and golden, glisten between flecks of sage, sweet-tart pomegranate arils, and tender bites of celery and carrot. Each spoonful offers a gentle chew, a pleasant resistance that gives way to buttery richness and herbaceous depth. Far from a bland carbohydrate filler, einkorn takes center stage, earthy, warming, and satisfying in the most elemental way.

The Past, Present, and Future of Einkorn

Einkorn is wheat in its truest form, as it was always meant to be. Before industrialization stripped it down to a hollow shell of its previous glory, einkorn was the reason that humans fell in love with wheat in the first place. It’s a story that’s been thousands of years in the making, and can continue in your kitchen today. Don’t miss the opportunity to nurture this heirloom staple in the same way it can sustain you. I’ll be hard to pick up that vapid conventional all-purpose flour once you’ve tasted the difference.

Continue reading “Einkorn to be Wild” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)12 Comments

Milling About

If milling whole grains at home to make your own flour is extra, then I never want to be just enough. For most of human history, exactly the opposite has been true. Grinding grains wasn’t a luxury or a hobby; it was a simply an act of survival. Convenience has made the essentials feel optional, often to the detriment of quality.

Convenience, however, can also mean increased access to better technology, bringing the whole concept full circle. Home grain mills are now within easy reach of anyone hungry for a change.

Grinding Towards Independence

Evidence of prehistoric peoples using flat stones to crush grains into a coarse meal stretches back tens of thousands of years. One could argue that the first miller was whoever was brave enough to put a kernel of wheat into their mouth and chew. For as long as there have been grains, humans have wanted to pulverize them. Much as I’d love to share a whole deep dive on the history of milling, that would turn into a novel. Let’s speed through a few millennia to the American Revolution, where our nascent country became defined by amber waves of grain and by extension, the need to grind them into flour.

Watermill Built in the Late 19th Century

Before the revolution, the colonies relied on British flour imports. George Washington himself was instrumental in planting the seeds of economic sovereignty. In 1771, he unveiled what could easily be called one of the most advanced gristmills of its time, providing the tools for local farmers to mill their own crops. Becoming self-sufficient and producing their own flour, which was the most important staple of their bread-heavy diet, allowed them to reject British trade policies and withstand shortages. One could argue that flour is what won the war, and I’d like to think that as because of this, there’s nothing more patriotic than grinding your own grains.

The Benefits of Milling Your Own Grains

Freshly milled flour has an unmistakable aroma that no store-bought bag can ever replicate. It’s earthy, nutty, and alive. That’s because once a grain is ground, the oils in the germ and the nutrients in the bran begin to degrade. Commercial flours are stripped of these parts to extend shelf life—but what’s lost in the process is the soul of the grain.

Milling at home means:

  • What you put in is what you get out: 100% of the grain—germ, bran, and endosperm. No fillers, no fortification, no bleaching, no nonsense.
  • By starting fresh, you preserve the flavor and nutrition, including natural B vitamins, iron, magnesium, fiber, and healthy fats.
  • Having full control over a range of different grinds means being able to create any texture you desire, from coarse semolina to the finest cake flour.
  • There are no limits to what you can bake with. Take advantage of seasonality and regional grain diversity with heirloom grains like einkorn, emmer, spelt, or rye. Don’t forget about the ability to make gluten-free flours, using dried beans like chickpeas and lentils, too.
  • Starting truly from scratch and milling your own whole grains does take more time, but I’d write that in as a benefit, too. Slowing down makes you appreciate the end results on a deeper level, reestablishing the frayed connection between where our food comes from and what we actually eat.

Modern Grain Mills for Home Use

Thankfully, today’s grain mills don’t require hauling water or harnessing livestock. The modern home baker has a range of user-friendly, attractively designed tools that fit neatly on a countertop but still echo the intention of those ancient stones.

My own obsession and the whole inspiration for this post began with the Mockmill 100. Roughly the size and shape of a juicer, it uses corundum ceramic grinding stones which stay cool during grinding, preserving the nutrients and oils in the grain. The adjustment dial is intuitive, giving you control over everything from coarse grits to ultra-fine flour. Cleanup is minimal, it’s compact enough to live on the countertop, and it feels solidly built, promising to keep cranking for years to come. Most importantly, it unlocked a new world of whole grain flours to bake with, which is especially exciting when you have a resource like Grand Teton Ancient Grains to supply all the software.

Numerous brands make grain mill attachments for the Kitchenaid stand mixer, with an equally wide range of success. Mockmill also has a model that’s at the top of the heap for me, producing the finest grind with the least amount of friction and strain on the machine. It’s a more affordable way to get started, using some of the equipment you already have in your kitchen.

Vitamix makes a Dry Grains Container which is a reasonable solution for small batches, and well suited for making coarse grits, but is difficult for maintaining a consistent fine grind. You’ll always need to sieve your flour before use and run the bigger pieces back through for a second and sometimes third time. Never use your regular wet canister to grind grains; they’ll quickly dull the blades and chip away at the plastic container, making it permanently cloudy.

For a low-cost, low-tech solution, you can get a hand-crank mill which has the added benefit of working on your upper body strength at the same time! I can’t overstate how much physical labor it takes to operate one effectively, which could be a pro or a con, depending on your constitution. These typically clamp onto a table and then you’re good to go. Some models struggle with more oily grains, so it’s important to carefully review what the manufacturers do and don’t recommend milling.

True Grit

Most people would reasonably want to use their grain mills to start cranking out ultra-fine flour to make cakes and breads so soft, they could be mistaken for edible pillows. What I find to be even more alluring, however, is the ability to dial in the consistency to make fresh grits out of any grain your heart desires. In this case, I’ve tapped my good friend, Khorasan, to make instant hot cereal that blows that dusty stuff from store shelves out of the pantry. If you’re looking for ways to eat well on a budget, this is the ultimate in nourishment, comfort, and easy.

Yes, Cream of Khorasan is unglamorous, and you would be within your rights to call it gruel, but I promise you, it’s so much more than meets the eye. Think oatmeal, but with a uniquely nutty depth, filling and hearty, waiting for you to dress up however you like. Endlessly versatile, it can be sweet or savory, equally satisfying when lavished with berries and maple syrup as it is with furikake and soy sauce. Don’t judge this book by its cover; give it a chance, and you’ll find its a real page-turner.

Full Circle

Milling your own grains isn’t just about baking better bread, it’s a step towards reclaiming autonomy. It’s a rebellion against the packaged, the processed, and the passive. One kernel at a time, we grind toward a richer life, inside the kitchen and out. It’s a daily ritual that reestablishes our frayed connection to the land that we love.

It’s just flour, but as the basic building block of bread, pasta, pastries, and more, that’s no small thing. Milling your own flour honors tradition, takes a huge step forward to self-sufficiency, and most importantly, instills the deep satisfaction of truly starting from scratch.

Continue reading “Milling About” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)12 Comments

The Khorasan Conundrum

You can separate the wheat from the chaff, but can you separate Khorasan from wheat? Wheat is all too often described as a single, homogeneous crop, flattened down to its most basic definition. It’s no wonder ancient grains are still so misunderstood. This most essential cereal is the umbrella term for a wide, diverse array of unique whole grains. Durum wheat may ring a bell, and bakers can probably tell the difference between hard red winter, hard red spring, soft red winter wheat. Khorasan, however, is also a type of wheat, but is largely overlooked, if not entirely unheard of.

It’s time we brought Khorasan back in to the spotlight as the superstar superfood it’s always been.

What is Khorasan and Where Did It Come From?

To be perfectly honest, up until Grand Teton Ancient Grains reached out to me and introduced me to this great grain, I was equally ignorant. Khorasan makes up a tiny fraction of wheat production globally, since modern varieties have been hybridized to be much more resistant to pests, have higher yields, and lower processing costs. That selective breeding has also nutritionally crippled most wheat on the market, but we’ll talk more about that in a bit.

Khorasan is named for the Khorasan region of Persia, encompassing parts of modern-day Iran, Afghanistan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, and Uzbekistan. It’s believed to have originated roughly 4,000 to 6,000 years ago from this Fertile Crescent. Grains resembling Khorasan have been found in Egyptian tombs, sometimes giving rise to the romantic moniker of “King Tut’s Wheat.” It didn’t reach the US until the 1940 following World War II.

So How Is Khorasan Related To Kamut®?

Kamut®, oh Kamut®, as if Americans weren’t already confused about their varieties of wheat. Kamut® is simply the trademarked brand name for Khorasan, as sold by one single company, Kamut® International. It’s the difference of bandage vs. BandAid® or copy machine vs. Xerox®, which is to say, mostly marketing and inflated costs.

What Does Khorasan Taste Like?

Two or three times larger than modern, mass produced wheat, these oblong, tawny brown kernels plump when you cook them, assuming a softer, rounder shape, almost like jumbo brown rice. Comparable to the subtle earthiness of spelt or farro, but with an added layer of buttery sweetness, Khorasan carries a natural nutty, toasted warmth and complexity. When cooked, especially as a whole grain, it reveals delicate caramel or honey-like undertones.

Cooked as a whole grain, it has a pleasantly chewy, plump bite, similar to barley but smoother and less gummy. Each kernel holds its shape well after cooking, offering a satisfying toothiness that makes it ideal for grain salads, pilafs, and soups. When ground into flour, Khorasan produces a soft, golden meal that yields tender baked goods with a slightly denser crumb than all-purpose flour. The gluten in Khorasan is less elastic than in modern wheat, which means bread made solely from Khorasan flour tends to be denser, but with a wonderful moistness and rich flavor.

How is Khorasan Used?

Besides eating the whole grain much like you would rice for pilafs, salads, risotto, and more, Khorasan is an incredibly versatile ingredient to use for a wide range of different applications.

  • Ground into flour: Milled into a soft, fine flour with a golden hue, Khorasan flour is a baker’s delight. It can be stone-ground or roller-milled, depending on the desired texture and application. The most popular uses are breads (particularly sourdough), pastas, crackers, cookies, and cakes.
  • Puffed: Using a high-heat, high-pressure machine (similar to the process used for puffed rice or puffed millet) causes the moisture in the grain to rapidly expand, “popping” the kernel into a fluffy yet crisp cereal.
  • Rolled or flaked: Steamed and flattened like rolled oats, rolled Khorasan wheat cooks more quickly and is easier to digest than whole berries. It’s ideal for making hot cereal, granola, and baking, anywhere you’d otherwise use oatmeal.
  • Sprouted: Soaked and allowed to germinate, the whole grain can be sprouted like seeds and legumes. They can be eaten fresh in salads and stir fries or dried and milled for inclusion in breads.

Khorasan, The Nutritional Breadwinner

Nutritionally dense, Khorasan is unique from other strains of wheat due to its impressive protein content, which is typically 14 – 17% (20 – 40% more than modern wheat). It also contains a small but meaningful amount of healthy fats, including essential fatty acids, and a moderate dose of dietary fiber to support digestion. On the micronutrient front, it lays claim to healthy amounts of magnesium, zinc, and selenium. Iron is also present in higher levels than in modern wheat, along with B vitamins like niacin (B3) and thiamin (B1).

Khorasan is not gluten-free, as it’s still a strain of wheat, though there’s anecdotal evidence that it may be easier for some with wheat sensitivities to digest. People with celiac disease should still sit this one out, sadly.

Cooking with Khorasan

If you find yourself with a generous bag of whole Khorasan berries from Grand Teton Ancient Grains, you don’t need a grain mill to get cooking. These whole grains have become a fast favorite for me because they’re almost impossible to overcook.

  • Soak Khorasan for 6 to 12 hours, and ideally overnight, to not only reduce the cooking time but also improve their digestibility. Simply cover the grains with a few inches of cool water in a bowl and let them sit at room temperature. Once soaked, drain and rinse the grains before cooking. If you choose not to soak, just be prepared to cook the grain longer to achieve the same tender texture.

  • For stove top cooking, combine 1 cup of dried Khorasan wheat with about 3 cups of water in a medium saucepan. Bring the liquid to a boil, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, cover loosely, and let it cook. If the grains were soaked, they’ll typically be done in 30 to 40 minutes; unsoaked grains usually take 50 to 60 minutes. When done, they should be plump, tender, and pleasantly chewy, with no chalky center. Drain any excess liquid.
  • If you prefer a quicker method, Khorasan can be cooked in a pressure cooker. Use about 2 1/2 cups of water per 1 cup of grains. For unsoaked Khorasan, cook on high pressure for 30 to 35 minutes; soaked grains need only 20 to 25 minutes. Allow the pressure to release naturally and drain if needed.

Converting Classic Grain Dishes

The beauty of Khorasan is how effortlessly it can replace boring, bland, mushy long grain white rice. Don’t get me wrong, the latter still has its place in my pantry, but it’s all too often used in places where it just doesn’t belong. The beloved Broccoli Cheese Casserole is an obvious example. As a southern staple, it’s the easiest way to get a green vegetable into picky kids, since it’s mostly made of cheese and starch.

I love the idea, but the execution leaves a lot to be desired. Cooked into oblivion, you don’t need to chew the end results. Khorasan is the solution to making a far more satisfying meal, with a real toothsome bite, along with more fiber to make it satiating beyond its soul-soothing, comforting taste.

My version naturally eschews the unctuous dairy foundation for a simple cheesy cashew sauce. Fresh broccoli, tossed right into the pan without any fussy blanching, stays tender-crisp instead of being cooked to death. This is the kind of dish you can bring to a potluck and watch disappear, before you can even utter the words “healthy” or “vegan.” Really, who needs the disclaimer in the first place? It’s simply delicious, feeding the heart, body, and planet all in one fell swoop.

Continue reading “The Khorasan Conundrum” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments