Tag: vegan

Sweet and Sassy

If you haven’t thought much, or at all, about Sassafras before, you’re not alone. Banished to the darkest depths of the forest after enjoying brief success as a soda shoppe superstar, there’s not a trace of it left on the market today. Where did it all go? Why did the original root of root beer disappear while only chemical imitators remain? The controversial answer is tangled up in politics and bunk science.

Sass Back

Sassafras is a tree grown in the American Southeast, cherished for years by the indigenous peoples for culinary, medicinal and aromatic applications. Sassafras leaves could be enjoyed as a fresh spice, like bay leaves, in soups and stews, or dried and steeped like tea. Spicy and earthy, with hints of vanilla and licorice, it’s what you might expect from root beer soda if it wasn’t so brash and artificial. The roots have the added benefit of thickening liquids, giving them a place of honor in many gumbo recipes instead of or in addition to file powder.

The tea from sassafras leaves is believed to have many curative properties, historically used to treat colds, measles, scarlet fever, indigestion, and heal wounds. Distilled safrole, the primary chemical compound in sassafras, is still used to make perfumes and natural insecticide products overseas. In the US, where this unique ingredient originated, the story is completely different.

The Dose That Makes The Poison

A study was done in the 1970s where a group of rats was fed extreme, excessive amounts of concentrated safrole. Unsurprisingly, they developed cancer and liver damage. The USDA reacted swiftly and blindly, banning the substance indefinitely. Abundant misinformation persists; even otherwise legitimate-looking websites claim that “Consuming 5 mL of sassafras can kill an adult.”

This is, frankly, a lie. Dr. James Duke, author Handbook of Edible Weeds, has written that on the contrary, root beer with safrole was 1/13 as cancer-causing as the alcohol in beer. While yes, safrole can be used in the production of ecstasy (MDMA), let’s not forget that over-the-counter cold medications can be used to make meth, too.

Distilling The Solution

By my estimation, I’ve consumed much more questionable things. That’s why I was overjoyed when I got real sassafras root from Tripp Distillery, creators of unparalleled sassafras liqueur. Not everyone has access like this, but there are some online resources as well. With my prize in hand, I knew what I wanted to make right away: A reverse root beer float. That is, scoops of homemade sassafras ice cream bobbing in a frosty mug of sparkling water. Cool, crisp, and invigorating, with much less cloying sweetness than the original.

What happened when I got home was a bit different than planned. My ice cream maker decided to give up the ghost, paddle immersed in cool custard, never to spin again. With the base already cooked and a heatwave approaching, I grabbed the nearest popsicle mold and started pouring.

Creamsicle Of Dreams

Call it fate, or a happy accident, but I think the results turned out even better this way. Sweet, creamy, and delicately spiced, there’s nothing else quite like it. Perched on wooden sticks, these frozen treats are even better for summer fun on the go, or swirling into a pop-tail, AKA popsicle cocktail. Just add hard seltzer or a shot of your favorite spirits to that sparkling water to get the party started.

If you like root beer, you’ll love sassafras. Ignore the fearmongering and give it a chance. It’s long overdue for a revival, but don’t just save the best for last—eat dessert first!

Continue reading “Sweet and Sassy” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)1 Comment

Kiss And Tell

Lemon zest has become my new garlic. By which I mean, there’s no such thing as too much. If a recipe calls for a teaspoon, or pinch, or even just as an optional addition, you’d better believe I’m not going to stop zesting until that whole lemon is bald. Unlike garlic, this applies to everything, both sweet and savory (although truth be told, I have bridged that gap for the former, too.)

While there’s never a bad time for dark chocolate, I’ve been craving something lighter, brighter, and breezier. Lemon-Kissed Raspberry Bark is the answer. Invigorating lemon zest cuts the sweetness of white chocolate alongside tart freeze-dried raspberries, delivering a burst of high-contrast, full spectrum flavor in every bite.

Minimal Effort, Maximum Enjoyment

Like any good bark, be it of dark or white chocolate, half its beauty lies in its simplicity. All you really need are three basic ingredients, plus optional salt and sprinkles, because life is better with both. Then, it’s just one bowl, one spatula, and a microwave that stands between you and your prize. No fancy equipment or complicated steps are involved. Even on a hot summer’s day when the kitchen is a less inviting place, it’s an ideal dessert to either share or hoard.

A Zest For Life

Don’t even think about cutting back on the lemon zest. The only acceptable modification is to swap it with another citrus. Orange or lime zest are equally suitable understudies, but don’t forget more unconventional options like yuzu, buddha’s hand, pomelo, makrut lime, and of course, any combination of the aforementioned fruits, too. The raspberries may seem like the star of the show, but it’s really the zest that makes it a winning production.

Continue reading “Kiss And Tell” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments

Baby Talk

Not a miracle of modern technology or ancient history, baby corn occupies a strange space on today’s dinner plate. That is, if it makes the plate at all. Rarely do they appear in recipes outside of the Asian culinary canon, relegated to the odd Chinese-American takeout box, drenched in a sticky, sweet sauce. Most consumers would be shocked to learn that baby corn exists outside of cans, despite the obvious logic that it must grow somewhere, beyond a tin foil tomb. It’s time to pull baby corn off the shelf and put it at the center of the plate.

What Are Baby Corn?

True to name, baby corn are, in fact, whole corn cobs, picked before they’re fully mature. This is exactly the same breed of sweet corn tossed on the grill, slathered with butter, and shucked all summer long. At this early stage, the entire vegetable is fully edible because the cobs haven’t fully developed. Though the growing process is the same, baby corn are comparably more expensive than adult corn because they must be picked by hand, making them much more labor-intensive to harvest.

Cutting corn from the stalk early explains their mild flavor as well. Baby corn don’t have as much time to develop sweetness, making them more starchy and crisp than anything else. That crunchy texture is a great asset that makes them such great candidates for quick cooking or no cooking at all.

Unclear Origins of Baby Corn

Surprisingly little is known about the exact history of how baby corn came to be a worldwide sensation. Corn itself boasts an ancient lineage, dating back thousands of years to its domestication in Mexico. However, the practice of harvesting immature corn cobs seems to be an innovation that blossomed in Asia. Today, Thailand is the leading cultivator of this miniature vegetable, but there are scant records of how and when it made the leap.

How To Cook Baby Corn

The subtle, fairly neutral flavor of baby corn makes it endlessly versatile. It can slip right into pretty much any dish, shine when seasoned with any array of spices, and play nicely with any accompaniments.

  • Before you hit the kitchen, why don’t you go ahead and just take a bite, as is? That’s right- Raw baby corn is fully edible, and quite tasty! If you’re fortunate enough to have access to a great Asian grocery, or perhaps a boutique produce market, you can find raw, fresh baby corn. It’s an excellent addition to salads, crudité platters, spring rolls, and much more, no heat required. Canned baby corn can also be enjoyed sans heat, but may have a slightly more metallic taste, for obvious reasons.
  • Pickling is a truly underappreciated approach for preparing baby corn. Treat them as you could green beans or asparagus packed in tall glass jars, bathed in your favorite brine du jour. Salty, vinegared, and just as crisp as ever, pickled baby corn are fun garnishes for cocktails or addition to relish trays.

  • Soups, stews, and braises bring out their more tender side, embracing the more starchy side of baby corn. No matter how long they’re cooked, it seems, they retain a firm bite, lending a satisfying textural contrast to any long-simmered preparation. Most baby corn are grown in Thailand, so it makes good sense that they’re an ideal addition to creamy coconut tom kha or spicy tom yum.
  • Roasting, baking, or air frying are all great options using intense, dry heat to brown the surface and add more textural interest. This method enhances caramelization, coaxing out their inherent sweetness and bringing a subtly nutty flavor to the fore.

  • If you’ve ever had a beer-battered baby corn, you know that deep frying them could very start a new craze. What isn’t better when coated in a savory, crunchy, lightly salted crust? Dip them in marinara or ranch dressing just like any other hot appetizer in that range to make a foolproof, crowd-pleasing snack.
  • Yes, of course, there are stir fries. Notice I saved this for last? I didn’t even need to bring this one up for it to resonate, but I’d implore you to think beyond basic vegetables and noodles. Given the Indo-Chinese treatment, Manchurian baby corn is a sweet-and-spicy departure from the norm, while still paying homage a time-honored combination. Try slicing it into tiny rounds and add it to any chaat, fried rice, or dry curry for that matter, too. You can’t go wrong with a simple stir fry, but you can go very right by trying something new.

Small Bites, Huge Potential

Baby corn stands as an open invitation to explore the vegetable kingdom, even for the travel-weary. A departure from the norm but still well within the realm of known produce, there’s always a can within easy reach. Go ahead, grab one, and try something new. It’s not a gamble to bet on the culinary potential of this intriguing miniature cob.

Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

No Bake, No Sweat

Soaring temperatures are a given on a typical summer’s day. As the mercury inevitably pushes higher, breaking new records with every passing season, the desire to spend time in the kitchen plummets proportionally. Unfortunately, those with a sweet tooth know that nothing will quell the craving for a satisfying sweet treat. It may very well be raining fire because unless it’s an actual apocalypse, dessert still must be served- And in that case, perhaps even more so.

Why is it so hard to just get motivated and make the same tried-and-true staples that always hit the spot? Chocolate chip cookies are foolproof, but this simple indulgence takes on a greater level of complexity when you factor in the unique stumbling blocks of summer. There’s the basic issue of turning on the oven, subjecting oneself to a punishing sauna even more brutal than the sun’s rays, and the time it takes for preheating, baking, and finally cooling down draws the suffering out to an interminable torture.

It’s also been proven that we’re less ambitious and productive during these midyear months, beckoned away from work by tempting beaches, hikes, or just lazy afternoons with friends. This is when most people go on vacations, after all, whether that’s a physical journey or just a mental respite. Convincing yourself to work harder while everyone else has all the fun is a losing battle that no one really should have to fight.

Want to end any sweltering day with a flourish? Pull out a towering icebox cake, layered with ripe, lightly spiced peaches, whipped coconut cream, and softened graham crackers. Despite the name, there’s no cake here and it doesn’t come out of the freezer! Rather, this old-school moniker came from an age when the only source of refrigeration was from a poorly insulated box, much like a picnic cooler, stuffed with rapidly melting ice. This modern take on no-bake cake will come as a happy surprise when it lands on the table, ready to slice and serve with minimal effort.

So go ahead, take it easy. Escape the heat, simplify your menu, but perish the thought of skipping dessert. No-bake desserts exist for just such occasions, rewarding a minimum amount of effort with sweet gratification.

Continue reading “No Bake, No Sweat” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Vegan Anchovies Are No Fish Story

Anchovies are a polarizing ingredient. The little silver fish are as good as gold by some eaters, and worse than rotting garbage on a hot summer’s day to others. If you’re vegan, obviously that’s a nonstarter, but I’d like to solve that dilemma and win over the haters all in one bite. Plant-based anchovies are here at last.

Vegan Anchovies: An Upstream Battle

The lack of fish-free proteins has long been the thorn in my side, as a former (short lived) pescatarian. Lagging behind all manner of plant-based innovations from cheese to beef, it’s still rare to find products that fit the bill or recipes that come close to the genuine article. Anchovies, perhaps unsurprisingly, are completely absent from that conversation. Inspired by a friend who’s a fervent fan of the canned sea critters, I set out to create my own oily fish from eggplant.

Eggplant, believe it or not, has the perfect buttery, melt-in-your-mouth texture once brined and marinated. Essentially the sponge of the vegetable kingdom, they soak in all the bold, umami, salty flavors you need and crave in conventional anchovies. Sugimoto Shiitake Mushroom Powder is the key to success, contributing that intense savory, meaty, faintly earthy flavor taste, without imparting an overtly mushroom-y character. Working in concert with the oceanic essence of kombu seaweed, tart capers, and sharp white vinegar, the results are intense, rich, and briny in all the best ways.

In Praise of Eggplant Anchovies

Anchovies, like shiitake, are champions of umami, the savory “fifth taste” that adds depth and richness to food. A single anchovy can elevate a dish from bland to “wow” by adding complexity in an instant. A little bit goes a long way, like tiny flavor bombs ready to detonate upon impact. They’re the secret ingredient in Caesar salad dressing, a base for the fragrant fish sauces of Southeast Asia, and the magic touch in Italian puttanesca sauce.

Tips For Success

Before anyone asks: No, you can’t reduce the salt. No, you can’t remove the oil.

  • While the eggplant strips do get a quick rinse, they’re still very salty, quite like the ocean. They’re essentially pickled before being marinated, so consider how salty your favorite pickles are before judging too harshly.
  • Officially categorized as an “oily fish,” we need to add our own healthy fats here to compete. This contributes to the sensation known as kokumi or “rich taste,” which works together with our beloved shiitake’s umami to create the most compelling, crave-worthy experience.
  • Don’t rush the process; letting the raw, salted eggplant sit for hours slowly draws out bitterness and softens the flesh. Since it barely gets heated through, most of the tenderizing happens here.

Serving Suggestions

Once you have them at your disposal, you’ll find endless options for enjoying your homemade anchovies.

  • Pizza: Name a more iconic combo. Anchovies make the melted cheese seem richer, the crust crisper by contrast, and the tomato sauce more robust. Before you scoff at this as an American bastardization, you should know that they’re a common topping in Italy, especially in southern regions.
  • Bruschetta: Top toasted bread with a drizzle of olive oil, chopped tomatoes, fresh herbs, and a whole vegan anchovy fillet. Simple, elegant, and bursting with flavor, you could easy serve this at a party with great fanfare, too.

  • Salad: Caesar is the obvious choice, but any leafy green side that needs a bit more oomph could benefit from some chopped vegan anchovies. If you’re serving someone with textural aversions, simply blend them into the dressing instead.
  • Pasta: Toss your favorite noodle with red sauce, pesto, alfredo; any sauce goes! Whole vegan anchovies work well with longer pasta like spaghetti and fettuccine, but you might want to chop them when using shorter shapes.
  • Butter: Make dairy-free compound butter with eggplant anchovy puree and fresh herbs. Slather it on bread, let it melt into mashed potatoes, and use it to finish meatless steaks.

Start thinking about them like you would olives. Use sparingly, but frequently, for maximum satisfaction.

Eggplant, Nightshade of the Sea

Perhaps eggplant anchovies are the plant-based alternative that no one asked for, but I promise they’ll become an irreplaceable staple in your kitchen, too. Just imagine the look on a seafood lover’s face when you unveil a dish bursting with the briny, rich, savory depth they crave, made entirely with plant-based provisions. Eggplant anchovies are your secret weapon, a simple substitution that shatters the stereotype of vegan food being bland. They not only add umami magic but open a world of culinary possibilities. You’ll never be able to look at the humble nightshade the same way again.

Continue reading “Vegan Anchovies Are No Fish Story” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments