Tag: vegan

Baby Talk

Not a miracle of modern technology or ancient history, baby corn occupies a strange space on today’s dinner plate. That is, if it makes the plate at all. Rarely do they appear in recipes outside of the Asian culinary canon, relegated to the odd Chinese-American takeout box, drenched in a sticky, sweet sauce. Most consumers would be shocked to learn that baby corn exists outside of cans, despite the obvious logic that it must grow somewhere, beyond a tin foil tomb. It’s time to pull baby corn off the shelf and put it at the center of the plate.

What Are Baby Corn?

True to name, baby corn are, in fact, whole corn cobs, picked before they’re fully mature. This is exactly the same breed of sweet corn tossed on the grill, slathered with butter, and shucked all summer long. At this early stage, the entire vegetable is fully edible because the cobs haven’t fully developed. Though the growing process is the same, baby corn are comparably more expensive than adult corn because they must be picked by hand, making them much more labor-intensive to harvest.

Cutting corn from the stalk early explains their mild flavor as well. Baby corn don’t have as much time to develop sweetness, making them more starchy and crisp than anything else. That crunchy texture is a great asset that makes them such great candidates for quick cooking or no cooking at all.

Unclear Origins of Baby Corn

Surprisingly little is known about the exact history of how baby corn came to be a worldwide sensation. Corn itself boasts an ancient lineage, dating back thousands of years to its domestication in Mexico. However, the practice of harvesting immature corn cobs seems to be an innovation that blossomed in Asia. Today, Thailand is the leading cultivator of this miniature vegetable, but there are scant records of how and when it made the leap.

How To Cook Baby Corn

The subtle, fairly neutral flavor of baby corn makes it endlessly versatile. It can slip right into pretty much any dish, shine when seasoned with any array of spices, and play nicely with any accompaniments.

  • Before you hit the kitchen, why don’t you go ahead and just take a bite, as is? That’s right- Raw baby corn is fully edible, and quite tasty! If you’re fortunate enough to have access to a great Asian grocery, or perhaps a boutique produce market, you can find raw, fresh baby corn. It’s an excellent addition to salads, crudité platters, spring rolls, and much more, no heat required. Canned baby corn can also be enjoyed sans heat, but may have a slightly more metallic taste, for obvious reasons.
  • Pickling is a truly underappreciated approach for preparing baby corn. Treat them as you could green beans or asparagus packed in tall glass jars, bathed in your favorite brine du jour. Salty, vinegared, and just as crisp as ever, pickled baby corn are fun garnishes for cocktails or addition to relish trays.

  • Soups, stews, and braises bring out their more tender side, embracing the more starchy side of baby corn. No matter how long they’re cooked, it seems, they retain a firm bite, lending a satisfying textural contrast to any long-simmered preparation. Most baby corn are grown in Thailand, so it makes good sense that they’re an ideal addition to creamy coconut tom kha or spicy tom yum.
  • Roasting, baking, or air frying are all great options using intense, dry heat to brown the surface and add more textural interest. This method enhances caramelization, coaxing out their inherent sweetness and bringing a subtly nutty flavor to the fore.

  • If you’ve ever had a beer-battered baby corn, you know that deep frying them could very start a new craze. What isn’t better when coated in a savory, crunchy, lightly salted crust? Dip them in marinara or ranch dressing just like any other hot appetizer in that range to make a foolproof, crowd-pleasing snack.
  • Yes, of course, there are stir fries. Notice I saved this for last? I didn’t even need to bring this one up for it to resonate, but I’d implore you to think beyond basic vegetables and noodles. Given the Indo-Chinese treatment, Manchurian baby corn is a sweet-and-spicy departure from the norm, while still paying homage a time-honored combination. Try slicing it into tiny rounds and add it to any chaat, fried rice, or dry curry for that matter, too. You can’t go wrong with a simple stir fry, but you can go very right by trying something new.

Small Bites, Huge Potential

Baby corn stands as an open invitation to explore the vegetable kingdom, even for the travel-weary. A departure from the norm but still well within the realm of known produce, there’s always a can within easy reach. Go ahead, grab one, and try something new. It’s not a gamble to bet on the culinary potential of this intriguing miniature cob.

Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

No Bake, No Sweat

Soaring temperatures are a given on a typical summer’s day. As the mercury inevitably pushes higher, breaking new records with every passing season, the desire to spend time in the kitchen plummets proportionally. Unfortunately, those with a sweet tooth know that nothing will quell the craving for a satisfying sweet treat. It may very well be raining fire because unless it’s an actual apocalypse, dessert still must be served- And in that case, perhaps even more so.

Why is it so hard to just get motivated and make the same tried-and-true staples that always hit the spot? Chocolate chip cookies are foolproof, but this simple indulgence takes on a greater level of complexity when you factor in the unique stumbling blocks of summer. There’s the basic issue of turning on the oven, subjecting oneself to a punishing sauna even more brutal than the sun’s rays, and the time it takes for preheating, baking, and finally cooling down draws the suffering out to an interminable torture.

It’s also been proven that we’re less ambitious and productive during these midyear months, beckoned away from work by tempting beaches, hikes, or just lazy afternoons with friends. This is when most people go on vacations, after all, whether that’s a physical journey or just a mental respite. Convincing yourself to work harder while everyone else has all the fun is a losing battle that no one really should have to fight.

Want to end any sweltering day with a flourish? Pull out a towering icebox cake, layered with ripe, lightly spiced peaches, whipped coconut cream, and softened graham crackers. Despite the name, there’s no cake here and it doesn’t come out of the freezer! Rather, this old-school moniker came from an age when the only source of refrigeration was from a poorly insulated box, much like a picnic cooler, stuffed with rapidly melting ice. This modern take on no-bake cake will come as a happy surprise when it lands on the table, ready to slice and serve with minimal effort.

So go ahead, take it easy. Escape the heat, simplify your menu, but perish the thought of skipping dessert. No-bake desserts exist for just such occasions, rewarding a minimum amount of effort with sweet gratification.

Continue reading “No Bake, No Sweat” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Vegan Anchovies Are No Fish Story

Anchovies are a polarizing ingredient. The little silver fish are as good as gold by some eaters, and worse than rotting garbage on a hot summer’s day to others. If you’re vegan, obviously that’s a nonstarter, but I’d like to solve that dilemma and win over the haters all in one bite. Plant-based anchovies are here at last.

Vegan Anchovies: An Upstream Battle

The lack of fish-free proteins has long been the thorn in my side, as a former (short lived) pescatarian. Lagging behind all manner of plant-based innovations from cheese to beef, it’s still rare to find products that fit the bill or recipes that come close to the genuine article. Anchovies, perhaps unsurprisingly, are completely absent from that conversation. Inspired by a friend who’s a fervent fan of the canned sea critters, I set out to create my own oily fish from eggplant.

Eggplant, believe it or not, has the perfect buttery, melt-in-your-mouth texture once brined and marinated. Essentially the sponge of the vegetable kingdom, they soak in all the bold, umami, salty flavors you need and crave in conventional anchovies. Sugimoto Shiitake Mushroom Powder is the key to success, contributing that intense savory, meaty, faintly earthy flavor taste, without imparting an overtly mushroom-y character. Working in concert with the oceanic essence of kombu seaweed, tart capers, and sharp white vinegar, the results are intense, rich, and briny in all the best ways.

In Praise of Eggplant Anchovies

Anchovies, like shiitake, are champions of umami, the savory “fifth taste” that adds depth and richness to food. A single anchovy can elevate a dish from bland to “wow” by adding complexity in an instant. A little bit goes a long way, like tiny flavor bombs ready to detonate upon impact. They’re the secret ingredient in Caesar salad dressing, a base for the fragrant fish sauces of Southeast Asia, and the magic touch in Italian puttanesca sauce.

Tips For Success

Before anyone asks: No, you can’t reduce the salt. No, you can’t remove the oil.

  • While the eggplant strips do get a quick rinse, they’re still very salty, quite like the ocean. They’re essentially pickled before being marinated, so consider how salty your favorite pickles are before judging too harshly.
  • Officially categorized as an “oily fish,” we need to add our own healthy fats here to compete. This contributes to the sensation known as kokumi or “rich taste,” which works together with our beloved shiitake’s umami to create the most compelling, crave-worthy experience.
  • Don’t rush the process; letting the raw, salted eggplant sit for hours slowly draws out bitterness and softens the flesh. Since it barely gets heated through, most of the tenderizing happens here.

Serving Suggestions

Once you have them at your disposal, you’ll find endless options for enjoying your homemade anchovies.

  • Pizza: Name a more iconic combo. Anchovies make the melted cheese seem richer, the crust crisper by contrast, and the tomato sauce more robust. Before you scoff at this as an American bastardization, you should know that they’re a common topping in Italy, especially in southern regions.
  • Bruschetta: Top toasted bread with a drizzle of olive oil, chopped tomatoes, fresh herbs, and a whole vegan anchovy fillet. Simple, elegant, and bursting with flavor, you could easy serve this at a party with great fanfare, too.

  • Salad: Caesar is the obvious choice, but any leafy green side that needs a bit more oomph could benefit from some chopped vegan anchovies. If you’re serving someone with textural aversions, simply blend them into the dressing instead.
  • Pasta: Toss your favorite noodle with red sauce, pesto, alfredo; any sauce goes! Whole vegan anchovies work well with longer pasta like spaghetti and fettuccine, but you might want to chop them when using shorter shapes.
  • Butter: Make dairy-free compound butter with eggplant anchovy puree and fresh herbs. Slather it on bread, let it melt into mashed potatoes, and use it to finish meatless steaks.

Start thinking about them like you would olives. Use sparingly, but frequently, for maximum satisfaction.

Eggplant, Nightshade of the Sea

Perhaps eggplant anchovies are the plant-based alternative that no one asked for, but I promise they’ll become an irreplaceable staple in your kitchen, too. Just imagine the look on a seafood lover’s face when you unveil a dish bursting with the briny, rich, savory depth they crave, made entirely with plant-based provisions. Eggplant anchovies are your secret weapon, a simple substitution that shatters the stereotype of vegan food being bland. They not only add umami magic but open a world of culinary possibilities. You’ll never be able to look at the humble nightshade the same way again.

Continue reading “Vegan Anchovies Are No Fish Story” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Bananas In Full Bloom

What looks like alien squids, comes from the tropics, and tastes like artichokes? If you guessed banana blossoms, I’d be very impressed, and you’d be right! Banana blossoms, also known as banana hearts, are the unopened flowers of the banana plant that are precursors to the fruit. Native to Southeast Asia, they’ve been a staple in Indian, Thai, Malaysian, Vietnamese cuisine for centuries.

What Do Banana Blossoms Taste Like?

If you’re not crazy about jackfruit or just want a change of pace, banana blossoms are my top suggestion for a substitute. They have a similar shredded texture that works brilliantly for making plant-based pulled pork or crab cakes, for example, but is slightly less sinewy. Their mild, artichoke-like flavor makes an accommodating neutral base for any marinade or sauce you cook it in.

Fresh Vs. Canned

Fresh banana blossoms can be quite daunting to work with. Cloaked in a deep magenta husk, both the florets and heart inside are edible, although it takes a fair amount of work to prep. The pistil and calyx must be removed from the each florets, which are quite fibrous and unpleasant to eat. Once exposed to air, it oxidizes very fast, exuding a milky lax where it was cut and rapidly browning. Having given this a shot once, I’m sticking to canned for the foreseeable future.

Canned banana blossoms have the added benefit of being more tender, which also means they cook more quickly. The size, texture, and taste of canned banana blossoms varies wildly between brands, and sometimes inside the very same can. Your best bet is to buy more than one can if you’re making a recipe like vegan fish and chips, where you want bigger pieces.

Nutritional Notes

Like jackfruit, banana blossoms make great substitutes for meat in terms of the eating experience, but are lacking in the protein department. That said, they’re low in calories and fat, they boast a good amount of fiber, are a good source of vitamin C and potassium. Just add some tofu, seitan, tempeh, or beans to your meal and you’ll be golden.

Cooking with Banana Blossoms

The beauty of banana blossoms lies in their versatility. Pretty much any cooking method suits them well, and you can’t really over or under cook them. For that matter, you don’t even need to cook them at all.

  • Raw: Great shredded and tossed in salads or slaws, they have a crisp yet toothsome bite.
  • Deep fried: Dip large pieces in beer batter and fry until golden brown to make surprisingly convincing fried fish sticks or fillets. Traditionally, banana blossoms are mixed with chana dal and spices to make fritters known as vazhaipoo vadai.
  • Stir-fried: Add banana blossoms into your favorite rotation of noodles and vegetables, or try making mochar ghonto, a type of dry curry native to Bengal, India.
  • Simmered: Creamy coconut stews, rich red wine braises, and all types of soups are ideal vehicles for infusing banana blossoms with flavor.
  • Preserved: Make a thick chutney known as vazhaipoo thogayal, which goes well with hot rice or used as a condiment on sandwiches.
  • Boiled or steamed: Simply steamed banana blossoms can be dipped in melted vegan butter to really play up their similarities to artichokes.

Find Banana Blossoms Near or Far

Banana blossoms are most reliably found in Asian markets, of course, either in the produce department or with the canned vegetables. If you’re not fortunate enough to have such a store nearby, canned or vacuum-packed banana blossoms in brine can be bought online. They’re shelf stable so you might as well stock up!

Jackfruit walked so banana blossoms could run. Though still relatively unknown in Europe and North America, this tropical import is poised to be the next big thing.

Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Sage Advice

When you were a kid, did you ever dream of one day waking up in someone else’s life? To jump out of bed in a brand new room, fully inhabited and carefully curated by someone with an impeccable sense of style? To open the drawers and find all new clothes, exactly your size, but nicer than you’ve ever had before? That’s what it felt like beginning the latest chapter in my new home. Such an immaculate, well-maintained space could only have fallen into my custody by some magical event, like something only my childlike imagination could rationalize.

Inhabiting that dream is a wild endeavor. Instead of waking up right when it starts getting good, you just keep going, discovering more, increasingly incredible things. Every minute detail is yours for savoring, and in the case of the yard especially, that will be an endless odyssey. Clearly, the previous owners had green thumbs, sowing seeds for plants and vegetables up and down the perimeter, into raised beds, across the front walk; everywhere the eye can see.

Gardening has become a full-contact sport. Beating back the weeds, growing tenaciously with thorns and burs outstretched with the threat of violence thick in the air, wasn’t part of the dream I fancied, but honestly, have also come to relish. Ripping out the invasive roots is incredibly satisfying, piling the gnarled roots for composting in a heap that gleams like a trophy in the sun. The real treasure is found when the battle is won, slowly unveiling a panoply of new plants for the taking.

Tomatoes, peas, mint, rosemary, sage- Oh, the sage! Suddenly I’ve inherited a large family of plant babies, but the sage, especially, demands attention. For a pungent herb that goes a long way, I certainly have a ton of it now. The soft, feathery leaves outstretch and tumble outside of their wooden containers, tumbling into the loamy soil below. They push and shove their siblings in an old fashioned show of rivalry, fighting for attention when they already have it. So in this dream world that’s become my life, I’m the steward of an outrageously large patch of fresh sage. No one prepared me for such an outlandish outcome.

Fresh Sage Tasting Notes

Fresh sage has a strong, earthy flavor that reminds me of Thanksgiving. That’s pretty much the only time I think of it, infusing that herbal aroma into stuffing, gravy, and meatless roasts. Sage is most at home in Mediterranean, American, and British cuisine, adding a subtly peppery, piney, citrus-y flavor that’s unlike any other. This combination makes it an especially compelling addition to dishes with dark leafy greens, mushrooms, lemon, garlic, browned butter, and toasted nuts.

Ideas For Cooking With Sage

If you have a more reasonable amount of fresh sage, perhaps leftover from another dish, here are a few quick, simple ideas for using it up:

  • Compound butter: Cream softened vegan butter with chopped sage, garlic, and/or lemon zest. Roll the mixture into a log with plastic wrap, chill until firm, and slice for a flavorful addition to any dish.
  • Stuffing: Add chopped sage to your favorite stuffing recipe, be it cornbread, wild rice, sourdough, and beyond.
  • Soups and stews: Sage is a great addition to hearty soups and stews, especially bean soups, lentil soups, and potato leek soup.
  • Creamy grain dishes: Sage pairs well with the richness of plant-based cream or coconut milk. Try adding it to pasta dishes with cream sauce, risotto, or polenta.
  • Roasted vegetables: Toss chopped sage with butternut squash, Brussels sprouts, or other autumn or winter vegetables before roasting.
  • Fried sage leaves: Fry whole sage leaves in olive oil until crisp. These make a delicious, fragrant garnish for pasta dishes, soups, or roasted vegetables.

Quick Tip For Substituting Fresh Sage

Fresh sage has a stronger flavor than dried, so you’ll generally use less of it. A good rule of thumb is to start with 1 tablespoon of chopped fresh sage for every 1 teaspoon of dried sage called for in a recipe. Bear in mind that sage can become bitter and overpowering if cooked for too long. Incorporate it into your dishes towards the end of cooking to preserve the best elements of its flavor.

Taming A Ton Of Fresh Sage

If you, like me, have an insane wealth of fresh sage, it’s a different story. You really can’t just hammer it into a single dish; it’s already so strong, it would make your meal inedible. That said, pesto is my go-to move, especially when you can diffuse the sage with an equal measure of parsley. While the vibrant green paste is still incredibly powerful, you can safely freeze your pesto for future enjoyment, rather than letting the leaves wither outside in the brutal summer sun.

Of course, that’s not the end of the story. What can you do with sage pesto? I’m so glad you asked! Naturally, anywhere you’d use basil pesto, you can use sage pesto instead. That includes:

  • Pasta: Toss cooked pasta with sage pesto and you can serve it either hot or cold. When chilled, this is a great picnic side dish or guest at a potluck.
  • Pizza: Spread a thin layer of sage pesto over pizza dough instead of red sauce before adding your favorite toppings.
  • Toast: Toast your favorite sliced bread and spread with sage pesto for a delightful appetizer or snack. Obviously, sliced avocado would be an excellent addition, as would roasted tomatoes or pico de gallo.

  • Sandwiches and wraps: Add a spread of sage pesto to elevate your sandwiches and wraps. It pairs particularly well with roasted vegetables.
  • Eggless scrambles or omelets: Fold sage pesto into the scramble right at the last minute, or spread it on the inside of an omelet just before serving. Alternately, dollop or drizzle on top for immediate flavor impact.
  • Soup topping: Stir a spoonful of sage pesto into bowls of tomato soup, minestrone, or creamy potato leek soup for an extra layer of savory goodness.
  • Marinade: Toss tofu, tempeh, seitan, or your favorite meatless protein with sage pesto and let marinate for at least 30 minutes before cooking. The pesto adds both flavor and moisture to the protein.
  • Dip: Thin out sage pesto with hummus, plant-based sour cream, or yogurt for a excellent accompaniment to crackers and crudites.

While I’m still waiting to wake up from this dream, I sure hope that day never comes. I’ve grown quite fond of this new life, including all the sage it brings.

Continue reading “Sage Advice” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Bonkers For Sonkers

Of crisps, cobblers, crumbles, and pies, there’s a dizzying array of permutations, but none quite so badly snubbed as sonkers. Spellcheck thinks it’s a typo. Even the brown betty, buckle, grunt, slump, and pan dowdy get more respect. It’s no mystery why no one talks about sonkers in the same reverential tone, if at all: They’re ugly. The old fashioned sonker simply can’t compete in this visually-oriented age, which is a terrible shame for the heritage and flavor it puts at risk of going extinct.

What’s A Sonker?

There’s no official consensus on what absolutely defines a sonker, but in my eyes, it’s a soupy fruit dessert that’s topped with a baked pancake batter. Instead of pastry, biscuits, streusel, or breadcrumbs, you get a fluffy batter crowning berries, apples, stone fruit, or even sweet potatoes with enough liquid to call it a sauce. It can only be served with a spoon and must be placed in a bowl, unless you’re set on wearing your dessert, too.

Sonkers come from North Carolina, where they’re found almost exclusively. Legend has it that the name came about as a descriptor for how the topping tends to sink into the fruit, and over time, “sinker” turned into “sonker.” Some argue that it comes from the region’s Scottish settlers who believed the dessert topping looked like a grassy knoll, or a bundle of hay or straw, that could be used as a seat or saddle, AKA a sonker in the native dialect. Quite frankly, I’m not seeing it, but who am I to argue with historians?

Do The Dip

Nothing beats warm, juicy baked fruit with a scoop of ice cream melting on top. Or perhaps, some softly whipped cream slowly sinking into the surface? Well, sonkers get none of that frippery. Instead, the typical pairing is a milk dip. Don’t be fooled by the title because there’s no dipping involved. A milk dip is almost like an eggless crème anglaise, or a pourable pudding. A generous drizzle adds nothing to the visual appeal, and may in fact make it even less attractive, but trust me, you want to do the dip.

Sink Your Teeth Into This Sonker

Inspired by some canned pineapple and excess li hing, I knew what I had to do. As a symbol of southern hospitality, the pineapple was a perfect base to pay homage to its roots. Canned in its own juices, you get enough sweetness to dial the sugar way down, and plenty of flavorful liquid already built in. Using coconut milk for the dip is a natural extension of the tropical taste, bringing all the richness you need to finish a full pan with ease.

Though best shared with a group, be sure to warn others to perhaps put away their camera phones, and not to wear white if partaking. I won’t be held responsible for any errant drips and spills that may result.

Continue reading “Bonkers For Sonkers” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)2 Comments