Correctly Spelt

After graduating from basic whole wheat flour in the early days of my baking career, spelt was next on the list of crunchy-granola staples. Spelt, of course, is simply another species of wheat, though I didn’t fully grasp that at the time. I even paraded out a “wheat-free” version of my famous Root Beer Float Cupcakes, which very clearly and prominently use spelt flour for the bulk of the batter. A swing and a miss, 18 year-old self. Now older, wiser, better at researching essential facts, and inspired by the unbeatable quality of Grand Teton Ancient Grains, it’s about time we talk about how to correctly consider spelt.

What Is Spelt, After All?

Spelt is an ancient variety of wheat that dates back at least 5,000 to 8,000 years, originally cultivated in parts of present-day Iran and southeastern Europe. It eventually made its way into Germanic and Celtic diets, becoming a staple crop throughout Central Europe, where it’s still beloved and widely used. While it fell out of favor with the industrialized agriculture boom, thanks to modern wheat’s enormous yields and pest resistance, spelt has never gone away. It’s endured like a family heirloom in traditional farming circles, and recently, begun to make a comeback in the modern kitchen.

How is Spelt Different From Modern Wheat?

Spelt is often lumped in with modern wheat, and while it is related, spelt is genetically distinct. It has a tougher outer hull, a different gluten structure, and a far richer, more diverse nutrient profile.

Modern wheat has been bred for high-gluten, high-yield performance in industrial baking to make fluffy sandwich bread and ultra-white cake flour possible. In contrast, spelt remains largely unhybridized, preserving many of its original characteristics. That means more flavor, more nutrition, and for some folks, easier digestion. While it’s not gluten-free, many people with wheat sensitivities (not celiac disease) report better tolerance for eating spelt.

What Does Spelt Taste Like?

Flavor-wise, spelt is in a league of its own. It has a subtle, earthy sweetness and a soft nuttiness. Cooked as a whole grain, it has a satisfyingly chewy bite, similar to barley, but with a bit more delicacy and a mellow, toasty undertone. I can’t help but think of cozy autumn soups or grain salad whenever I cook up a fresh pot.

When ground into flour, spelt produces a golden, soft meal that works beautifully in everything from rustic sourdough loaves to hearty cookies and wholesome muffins. It has a slightly lower gluten strength than modern wheat, which gives baked goods a tender but often more dense crumb. It’s less elastic but more flavorful, so you’ll often see it cut with bread flour or all-purpose flour to achieve a lighter loaf or dessert.

How is Spelt Used?

Spelt is wildly versatile, well beyond the flour most people are accustomed to seeing on grocery store shelves. It can slide right into nearly any recipe that calls for whole wheat. Here’s a breakdown of the most common forms:

  • Whole berries: The entire grain, with its tough outer husk removed. Great for cooking like rice or barley, in grain bowls, soups, and salads. In Europe, its often used as the base of plant-based milk alternatives as well, either by itself or blended with other whole grains.
  • Spelt flour: A baker’s best friend, this flour can be used in breads (its especially popular in sourdough), muffins, pancakes, pastas, and cookies. It can be swapped in for whole wheat flour in most recipes, though it’s best not to go full 100% in place of white all-purpose flour, especially in more delicate baked goods like cakes and pastries.
  • Rolled spelt (spelt flakes): Much like rolled oats, this form cooks quickly and is great for breakfast porridge, granola, or baking applications.
  • Puffed spelt: A light, crunchy form often used in cereals, granola, and snack bars. It’s more mild in flavor which may make it an easier sell for children or picky eaters.
  • Spelt bran: In refining the grain, the outer layer (the hull) is sometimes removed and sold separately. It’s particularly high in fiber and often added to baked goods for a nutritional boost.

Spelt, The Nutritional Powerhouse

Spelt has a lot going for it nutritionally. It contains more protein than standard wheat and it brings a generous dose of fiber to the table. It’s also rich in key minerals like manganese, phosphorus, magnesium, zinc, and iron. Plus, it boasts a solid profile of B vitamins, including niacin (B3), riboflavin (B2), and thiamin (B1), all crucial for energy metabolism and nervous system health.

What really sets spelt apart is its unique combination of fiber and resistant starches, which feed beneficial gut bacteria and support digestion. Studies have suggested that it’s beneficial for supporting and repairing the microbiome, which can have huge impacts on overall health. Again, it’s not gluten-free, but anecdotal evidence (and a few small studies) suggest that spelt may be easier on sensitive stomachs than modern wheat, AKA refined white flour.

Cooking With Whole Spelt Berries

Whole spelt berries are easy to cook and hard to mess up. They hold their shape, remaining al dente even after a hard boil, and they soak in any seasonings you throw at them like culinary chameleons.

  • Soak first (optional but recommended): Soaking the grains overnight or for at least 6 – 8 hours shortens the cooking time and may improve digestibility. Just cover them with plenty of water, let them sit, and drain and rinse thoroughly before cooking.
  • Stove top method: Combine 1 cup of whole spelt berries with 3 cups of water. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover, and let cook for 40 – 60 minutes if starting from dry, or 30 – 50 minutes if soaked. You’re looking for plump, chewy grains with no crunch in the center. Drain any excess water.
  • Pressure cooker method: Use 2 1/2 cups of water per cup of grains. Cook soaked spelt for about 15 – 20 minutes on high pressure; unsoaked grains will need closer to 30 – 35 minutes. Allow for a natural release and drain well.

Souper Spelt

As previously mentioned, I can’t think of spelt without imagining warm, hearty autumnal vegetables. Colored in deep reds, oranges, and amber hues, the tawny brown of spelt fits with that fall harvest like it was always meant to be. As temperatures drop, my thoughts also turn to cozy soups and stews, which is why the very first thing I did with my freshly cooked spelt berries was turn them into this seasonal minestrone. They take the place of semolina pasta for a more flavorful and nutritious brew, paired with tender parsnips, squash, potatoes, and white beans to make a deeply satisfying one-bowl meal.

Infinitely adaptable, as all good soups are, you can trade the veggies for anything at the market, and anything your heart desires. Starchy vegetables like kabocha, delicata squash, turnips, rutabaga, and even radishes are all good choices when you want to switch things up. If you’re tired of kale, try shredded cabbage or shaved Brussels sprouts. All beans are beautiful, so while I tend to favor a more delicate white bean in this application, genuinely any legume would be welcome in this pot.

Clearly Spelt Out

Spelt might not be the trendiest grain on the shelf but it’s clearly stood the test of time to earn its keep. With deep historical roots, rich flavor, and real nutritional value, spelt is the ancient grain that’s as relevant today as it was millennia ago. Whether you’re baking bread, stirring up porridge, or just exploring new grains in your kitchen, spelt is well worth a spot in your pantry. Once you get a taste, you’ll want it around all the time.

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Know Your Onions

I have a question for you, and I want you to really think hard on it. Take a minute to comb through your memory archives before answering. It’s imperative that you mull it over, forward and backwards, backwards and forwards again.

Have you ever eaten a dish and thought, “there are too many onions in this.”

No. The answer is no. Unless you took a chomp out of a whole raw onion, it’s not humanly possible. Cooked onions in any form have no limit. No point of diminishing returns. Sauteed, fried, caramelized, dried, and even steamed or boiled; onions are the unassailable backbone of all cuisine.

French Onion Soup puts onions back on the pedestal where they belong. Not lurking in the shadows, hidden from the spotlight while doing all of the real work behind the scenes, it’s one of the few dishes where they get to shine. Even self-proclaimed vegetable haters will go to town on this steakhouse classic, luxuriously rich despite sporting the most basic of ingredients.

This concept is nothing new. My version isn’t special. It is, however, delicious, and delicious things are best shared. In case you didn’t already have a French onion soup in your repertoire, consider this the one to save.

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Fisherman’s Lure

If there’s any dish that represents the history and heritage of San Francisco, it’s cioppino. Even more so than the storied loaves of sourdough bread produced in droves around the bay, this humble yet simultaneously opulent dish has sustained generations. Tomatoes and seafood meet in an herbaceous broth spiked with white wine, embodying elegance without ostentation. It’s the working person’s humble indulgence, paying homage to the bounty of the region. The lack of plant-based seafood options put me off of attempting to replicate it for far too long. It turns out, nature already has a fantastic alternative to offer: mushrooms.

Mushrooms: The New Seafood

Yes, of course mushrooms! Varieties like king oyster mushrooms, maitake (AKA, hen of the woods), and shiitake, all featured prominently in this rich brew, make excellent seafood alternatives for a few key reasons:

  • Texture: Mushrooms have a naturally meaty and chewy texture, especially the small, thick caps of Donko Sugimoto Shiitake, evocative of scallops or shrimp when cooked.
  • Umami: Mushrooms, particularly dried shiitake, are rich in umami, which is also a crucial tasting note found in seafood. This depth of flavor comes from compounds like glutamate, inosinate, and guanylate, which are the uniquely potent trio that Sugimoto Shiitake brings to the table.
  • Absorbency: Mushrooms are known for their ability to absorb and enhance the flavors of whatever they are cooked with. When seasoned with seafood-like ingredients (such as seaweed, lemon, garlic, and herbs), mushrooms can take on flavors that mimic those of the sea.
  • Nutrition: While mushrooms don’t provide the same exact nutritional profile as seafood, they do offer important nutrients, including protein, fiber, and various vitamins and minerals.

Chip In For Cioppino

Legend has it that fishermen of yore would all “chip in” a bit of the day’s catch to make a communal vat of stew to share, and if you can imagine that with an Italian accent, the origin of the name would be clear. Others, however, see a more concrete link through the Italian word “ciuppin,” which means “to make soup from fish” or “little soup” in Ligurian dialect. In either case, it illustrates the beauty of this dish, which is infinitely adaptable. Built upon whatever was available at the end of a hard day’s work, there are no hard and fast rules. Had those founding San Franciscans set off into the forests instead of the sea, I’m confident there would be more foraged finds, like earthy wild mushrooms, added to the pot.

Cook Quickly, Savor Slowly

Romantic as the ideas of soup simmering on the stove may be, rarely do I have the time to babysit an all-day affair like that. Instead, I’m coming in hot with a quick-fix approach, taking advantage of my trusty pressure cooker. After sautéing the aromatics, it only takes 10 minutes under pressure to yield buttery-soft mushrooms and meltingly tender vegetables. Should you still want to take this to the stove, it’s easily feasible in an hour or two, tops.

Souper Stew

Cioppino is a complete thought, and thus, a complete one-pot meal. That said, it does beg for a wedge of crusty bread (yes, sourdough) to best sop up all the rich broth. If you’re having friends over and want to stretch it further, a peppery arugula salad would be an excellent counterpoint and of course, it pairs beautifully with a dry white wine. Plan to buy an extra bottle, just in case.

Tides of Change

Just as the tides of San Francisco Bay ebb and flow, so too does the legacy of cioppino evolve, shaped by time, necessity, and now, compassion. While the classic version pays tribute to seafaring traditions, this mushroom-forward interpretation speaks to a modern mindset, valuing sustainability without sacrificing depth of flavor. It’s remarkable how these humble fungi can bridge such a wide culinary gap, offering a taste of the ocean while staying firmly rooted to the forest floor. Tradition isn’t something we preserve—it’s something we reinvent.

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Bean Counter

Peanuts are legumes, so why don’t more people treat them as such? Crunchy when toasted, creamy when blended, and inescapably rich in natural oils, they do indeed behave more like nuts, but I can assure you, these babies are beans all the way through. That’s not just some fun trivia to impress at dinner parties. The distinction between nuts and legumes changes how I’ve come to think about them in the kitchen. Nomenclature and botany aside, treating peanuts like beans flips the script in a whole new savory direction.

It all started with boiled peanuts. Slowly simmered inside once brittle shells, they soften to become the southern answer to edamame in their pods. Tender, flavorful, buttery, and briny, this classic preparation hints at their versatility and full culinary potential. Take it a step further with more liquid, and eventually, you’ll end up with peanut soup.

Groundbreaking Groundnuts

Peanut soup isn’t a groundbreaking concept, but one that’s ripe for reimagination. It has deep roots in West Africa, where peanuts, AKA “groundnuts,” have long been a staple. They meet with fiery chilies, ginger, cumin, and more, singing with the heat and intensity of African cuisine. When enslaved Africans were brought to the Americas, they brought their culinary traditions along with them, including the technique of using peanuts as a base for rich, savory soups.

The South, particularly Virginia, where peanuts have been grown since the 18th century, has adopted a milder, more delicate spin on peanut soup. It’s a simple affair that starts with onions and celery, uses flour as a thickener, and is enriched with heavy cream. Building that concept out into a more well-rounded snapshot of southern fare, it seemed a crime that no one ever thought to invite collard greens to the party.

The Southern Twist

In my mind, collard greens are the stalwart champions of Southern cuisine. Growing like weeds, bitter yet beguiling, their abundance is a testament to the tenacity of their keepers. Their earthy tartness perfectly balances the rich, nutty sweetness of peanuts in this velvety blend. Using crunchy peanut butter is the shortcut that ensures a perfect consistency, with toothsome bites of chopped peanuts and a silky-smooth base, all at once. Celery, naturally salty, is another essential vegetable that gets little fanfare in most recipes. Their feathery leaves are the final garnish that brings the whole dish together, echoing the sauteed base of aromatics within.

Know Your Beans

Peanuts are a curious contradiction in the culinary world. Though they behave like nuts, look like nuts, and taste like nuts, they’re beans, through and through. Often relegated to sweet treats or snack foods, recognizing them as beans opens up a whole new realm of savory possibilities. Peanut soup takes peanuts back to their roots, and puts them back at the center of the menu. Hearty enough to beat back the cold of any winter, this is one easy, tasty way to make peanuts worth more than a hill of beans.

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Garlic Breath

Be it a delicate broth or thick stew, nothing completes a steaming bowlful like a hearty slice of bread. Crackling crust giving way to a spongy matrix of soft crumbs, each bite melts into submission when dipped into the soup of the day. Sometimes the soup is merely a thinly veiled excuse to reach for another helping of bread, so compellingly that fresh loaf does beckon.

Garlic Bread Soup: Quick Comfort In A Bowl

Let’s just cut to the chase here and turn the bread into the soup itself, with a powerful blast of fresh garlic to up the ante. Save yourself the hassle of peeling the cloves by grabbing a bag of prepped garlic in advance, or going straight for a jar of minced, but don’t cut back on the full measure. Garlic bread lives or dies on the pungency of that stinking rose, and once lightly caramelized in peppery olive oil, all the harsh edges will soften.

Perhaps it’s not fodder for a first date, but this velvety smooth base is just the beginning to a whole different sort of love affair.

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