Tag: pasta

Kreplach with Chutzpah

Pronounced with enough force, kreplach sounds like a Yiddish curse at best, and an old man hacking up a lung at worst. Say it with your chest and really draw out the “ach” to hear what I mean, and possibly scare your neighbors while you’re at it. Resolutely the stuff of Old World sustenance, they’ve slowly faded into obscurity, overtaken by myriad adjacent dishes.

Some take offense to the comparisons, indignant that such a righteous and deeply meaningful food could be lumped into the same category as most generic frozen meals, but let’s be real: they are like Jewish wontons, pierogi, ravioli, manti, pelmeni, or just about any other dumpling that springs to mind first. Take a thin sheet of flour dough, wrap it around a basic filling of chicken, potatoes, mushrooms, or beef, simmer it in soup or pan-fry, and you have your holy kreplach.

Stuffed With Meaning

Symbolism is almost as important as flavor when you talk about the history of kreplach. Reserved for special occasions, they’re most likely to reemerge for Rosh Hashanah, Yom Kippur, and Purim. In accordance with the former two holidays, the filling is sealed, just as our fates are said to be sealed in the book of life, or possibly shielded from judgment. Purim, viewed by some as a Jewish version of Halloween, is where things get more interesting.

Triangulated Trials

Just as Esther concealed her identity, and children today don costumes and disguises, the filling is hidden between the thin layers of dough. On this day, kreplach are folded into triangles, mirroring the shape of hamantaschen which also mimic the three cornered hat worn by Haman. They’re little pockets of joy made from the most humble stuff, finding beauty in the commonplace, the mundane, the everyday. It’s the time and labor that make them truly special.

Labor of Love

To that end, yes, you could make shortcut kreplach by using wonton skins instead of homemade dough, but that rather defeats the purpose to me. You might as well buy any old ready-made dumplings at that point. The dough, rolled out thinly, has a more distinctive bite, more resistance and weight, which can’t be replicated by anything other than the genuine article. Traditional renditions are egg-heavy, though that’s nothing a little aquafaba can’t fix. Feel free to prep this well in advance, since it can keep for up to a week in the fridge. It’s easy, not quick.

Souped or Sautéed

When I think of kreplach, I think of gleaming little triangles swimming languidly through light, golden broth, intermingled with a few coins of tender carrots. They can also be served dry, pan-fried, often laced with caramelized onions. If you were to take the potato stuffing route, you know how well that works for pierogi; I’d be sorely tempted to serve them with a side of vegan sour cream to complete the picture.

Today’s Kreplach Legacy

Don’t let kreplach die out. Yes, there are plenty of close cousins hailing from Europe and Asia alike. Perhaps no one would even realize if they make an Irish exit. My favorite foods, however, come with stories. Tradition, intention, and symbolism have branded kreplach as their own unique, wholly irreplaceable entry to the culinary canon of all dough-swaddled savory morsels. There’s never been a better time to try a taste of history than the present day.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments

Endless Einkorn Pastabilities

I very nearly destroyed my stand mixer trying to make einkorn pasta. I’m no stranger to the art of pasta making thanks to a brief but immersive obsession during COVID19, so I had full confidence that this simple experiment would be a wild success.

I was wildly wrong.

Wads of wet, sticky, yet impossibly thick dough clogged the extruding attachment from top to bottom, inexorably stuck in pasta purgatory. No amount of prodding could convince it to come out, nor additional flour, water, or even oil. Only time could heal this wound, letting the einkorn paste dry up to a point where I could chisel it out a few days later. I vowed then and there that I would never make einkorn pasta again. Fortunately for me and you, I don’t have to.

Buy, Don’t DIY

Grand Teton Ancient Grains, my favorite resource for whole grains and the instigators of my whole einkorn infatuation, now make luxurious long strands of einkorn angel hair, spaghetti, and linguine. This stuff is the real deal, made with 100% einkorn semolina and nothing else. No filler, no nonsense. That means they pack a punch, nutritionally speaking, with more than twice the amount of protein as standard white flour pasta. It’s a good thing they’re packed in two-pound bulk bags because I can’t keep my hands off of these beauties.

Bronze Takes First Place

Bronze-cut pasta is the gold standard for quality pasta production, pioneered by the Italians in the 17th century. Otherwise known as trafilata al bronzo, the bronze dies create a rougher surface as the dough is extruded. That means the resulting noodles have a more satisfying bite and are better suited to capturing and holding on to whatever sauces you throw at them. The technique fell out of favor as modern manufacturing demanded faster turnaround times, but the difference is obvious. Modern bronze-cut pasta exemplifies a philosophy of patience and respect for ingredients without having to say a word.

Taste Beyond Compare

While the deep flaxen hue may look like standard whole wheat, the flavor is anything but. Subtly sweet and delicate, there’s none of the off-putting bitterness that the bran of modern wheat can impart. Naturally buttery, honeyed, and slightly toasted, it has a softer, rounder flavor that doesn’t dominate sauces. Einkorn pasta gives you the best of all worlds.

Guardian Angels

Angel hair is typically my last choice when cravings come calling, but this version grants it a massive upgrade on the noodle hierarchy. After a mere two minutes in the water, they’re already supple and ready to serve, yet stronger than the average gossamer strands. Tender without collapsing, delicate without disappearing, I finally understand the enduring appeal of this much maligned noodle.

Spaghetti Theory

Einkorn spaghetti invites a bolder approach. Thicker and more robust, it has the structure to stand up to assertive flavors and sturdier mix-ins without losing its elegance. This is the pasta I reached for when making Dirty Martini Pasta, where briny olives, sharp citrus, and glossy olive oil demand a noodle with both backbone and nuance. Einkorn’s naturally earthy flavor softens the high notes, keeping the dish balanced rather than abrasive. Each bite feels cohesive; salty, silky, and just indulgent enough to honor such sophisticated cocktail inspirations.

Lingering Over Linguine

Wider lengths of linguine possess a certain grounded grandeur. Like slightly flattened ribbons, it has a natural grace that makes it feel composed even before sauce enters the picture. It holds space beautifully, lending a hearty bite to any dish it stars in, and yes, it will easily steal the spotlight. This is the kind of pasta that invites intention, rewarding thoughtful pairings rather than excess.

Eat Like a Rockefeller

That balance made it the obvious choice for making Oyster Mushrooms Pastafeller, a plant-forward nod to the flavors of Oysters Rockefeller. Feathery oyster mushrooms take on the role of velvety seared seafood, bolstered by briny capers and kelp granules, while herbs, aromatics, and richness envelope the whole dish. Al dente linguine entwines in a comforting tangle, paying proper homage to the inspiration without attempting imitation.

While I’m not happy about the original pasta maker mishap, it does give me a greater appreciation for the artistry that goes into a ready-made solution. The difference is knowing when to let go of DIY bravado and trust true craftsmanship. That’s what made Oyster Mushroom Pastafeller possible and ready on a whim, without bringing out the heavy artillery. Grand Teton Ancient Grains delivers einkorn pasta that honors the grain without asking you to wrestle it into submission. Sometimes the smartest move isn’t trying harder, but choosing better.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Purple People Pleaser

Ube is here to stay.

Casting Filipino kitchens in a vibrant violet hue for millennia, these tubers have taken root in the hearts, minds, and stomachs of those worldwide. Who wouldn’t immediately be captivated by such a striking shade? Few, if any, earthly ingredients could ever achieve that brilliance. One glance and the brain starts spinning like a top, searching for context clues to make sense of what might be on our plates but no, there’s nothing quite like ube.

Adjacent to Hannah yams in terms of texture and flavor, most people seek to accentuate their natural sweetness in desserts. Subtly nutty, accented by hints of floral vanilla, it’s an excellent candidate for the last course. I, however, am not most people, and I think ube should be the entree, too.

Noodles Everyday, In All The Ways

Back when I was obsessed with my pasta maker, if I could extrude it in a dough, no flavor combination was off the table. That era was marked by furious flour storms and spaghetti stands drying on every available surface. Beet linguine, spinach ravioli, charcoal spaghetti; I noodled through every color of the rainbow and back again. One stand-out experiment was ube fettuccine, impossibly indigo, fit for royalty.

Yes, the pasta portion of the recipe is written in grams; it’s worth the price of a kitchen scale, if you don’t already have one. Pasta making isn’t hard, especially with a machine doing the heavy lifting, but it is exacting.

Semi-Homemade Hack

To that end, you can use store-bought dried pasta and cook it in ube-tinted waters for a quicker, and easier fix, but one with much less impact. Expect something more along the lines of pastel lavender pasta, and precious little added flavor to speak of.

To honor its more tropical origin, no average Alfredo sauce would do. Coconut replaces cream in a lush, velvety, unapologetically rich base, coaxed back into savory territory with umami nutritional yeast, garlic, and a whisper of lemon juice. Simple in composition but wildly nuanced in flavor, it’s a sauce that sings in harmony with the sweet, nutty depth of the ube without competing, only amplifying.

Why relegate something so naturally brilliant to just pastries and lattes? Ube has range, and clear staying power. It brings a gentle sweetness with a grounding earthiness that makes it just as welcome at the start of a meal as the finish.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Seas The Day

Succulent and briny from the kiss of salt water, fresh seafood is a distinct pleasure enjoyed best in the fading glow of a summer sunset. I’m not talking about scallops, shrimp, or lobster; my seafood is all plant-based. Mushrooms, to be specific, make some of the best seafaring foods this side of the shoreline.

Why Mushrooms?

Mushrooms are truly the future of food. They can imitate an incredible range of proteins, both in texture and flavor, from chicken to steak, and now all manner of fishy friends. The beauty of mushrooms lies in their delicate, umami flavor that can take on any type of seasonings. Marinate them with a bit of seaweed and you’ve got an instant oceanic infusion. Seared, baked, roasted, or kept raw, they have a similar sort of toothsome tenderness, juicy and even subtly sweet.

Best Mushrooms For Replacing Seafood

As an ardent mushroom lover and proponent, I will never turn down any type of ‘shroom. That said, some are better suited for this sort of application than others.

  • Oyster mushrooms: Chewy like calamari, battered and fried oyster mushrooms only give themselves away by their shape. This same quality makes them an excellent choice for making ceviche, too.
  • Lion’s mane mushrooms: Perfect for shredding to make crab cakes or lobster rolls, they can also be pressed to make meatier steaks or fried fish.
  • King trumpet mushrooms: Slice the stalks and pan-sear them to make incredible scallops. I like cutting crosshatches on top to soak in more marinade, and because it looks pretty darned fancy.
  • Maitake mushrooms: Feathery and soft, you’ve got a flaky white fish waiting to happen in every handful. They’re especially tasty when roasted to lightly crisp the edges.

Fishless And Fancy-Free

Unburdened by the plight of our oceans, mushrooms create an even lighter, brighter, and more vibrant pasta dish than anything you’d dredge up from the sea floor. Pan-fried wild mushrooms, seasoned with a touch of paprika and nori, add a delightful meaty element that beautifully complements the seafood vibe. Bursting with the sweetness of fresh corn and the tang of juicy tomatoes, it sings of summer’s bounty. Finish it all off with a splash of white wine, a squeeze of fresh lemon, and a sprinkle of scallions for an elegant entree that’s a real catch.

Plant-based seafood is a booming business, and mushrooms are leading the charge. Cutting-edge technology and fermentation techniques are creating increasingly authentic alternatives that mimic the exact texture of your favorite ocean treats, but simple home cooking can already come stunningly close. Indulge your cravings for seafood, but don’t be shellfish; just eat mushrooms instead!

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Off The Butcher’s Block

Italians may have perfected and popularized pasta as we know it today, but they aren’t the only ones that know how to use their noodles. Boundaries that once defined traditional dishes are rapidly fading away, giving rise to bold, unexpected flavor innovations. One such marriage of culinary traditions is Pasta Alla El Chacinero, a vibrant twist on the beloved Italian classic, Pasta Alla Norcina. This Tex-Mex masterpiece seamlessly blends the rustic elegance of Umbrian pasta with the bold, robust flavors of Southwestern cuisine.

What Is Pasta Alla El Chacinero?

To better understand the inspiration, we need to talk about Pasta Alla Norcina. A lesser known specialty in the US, it’s an Umbrian treasure, not to be missed. Bringing together hearty pork sausage, fresh black truffles, and a rich cream sauce, it’s an ode to the sleepy mountain town of Norcia. “Norcina” also happens to be slang for “pork butcher” in Italian, emphasizing the importance of this meaty staple. Of course, if we’re going to change it up, why not start with plant-based meats?

Pasta Alla El Chacinero is my own crazy Frankenstein invention, bringing together these classic elements, reimagined through vegan ingredients and Mexican seasonings. “El Chacinero” means “butcher” in Spanish, to tie on to the original thread, starting with spicy chorizo and finely minced Sugimoto Shiitake mushroom stems instead. While most dried mushroom stems remain far to woody and fibrous even after a long soak, these are every bit as valuable as the caps. Ever since my early experiments, turning them into taco meat, I’ve been hooked on extending my meatless grounds with this umami superfood.

Amplifying that rich source of Glutamate, huitlacoche takes the place of black truffle, lending a complex, earthy, and slightly sweet flavor to the dish, with a hint of smokiness. Finally, rather than white wine, the pan is deglazed with a Mexican-style lager, for just a touch of brightness.

Simple Swaps

If you’ve already used up all your shiitake stems for another recipe, don’t worry. There are easy workarounds to get the same depth of flavors in your dish. Either…

  1. Omit the stems and use 12 ounces of plant-based chorizo. Add 2 teaspoons of Sugimoto shiitake powder for the same earthy, meaty, aromatic experience.
  2. Replace the stems with an equal amount (by weight) of whole Sugimoto Shiitake mushrooms. Either donko or koshin are excellent options here.

Tips For Success

Both humble and luxurious, it’s hard to mess up such a simple recipe. Essential steps to pay attention to for the very best results include:

  • Thoroughly browning the meatless mix. You want that subtle caramelization, those crisp edges, the toothsome, chewy finish it creates to lend greater nuance and textural contrast to the finished dish.
  • Sauteing the huitlacoche with the aromatics. Unlike truffles, this so-called “corn smut” won’t lose flavor when cooked, and in fact, benefits from some time on the heat. Straight out of the can as it’s typically sold in the US, it can have a harsh flavor that doesn’t immediately mesh well with the other ingredients.
  • Initially cooking the pasta just shy of al dente. If it’s fully cooked befor hitting the sauce, it’ll get overdone when mixed in and simmered again.
  • Reserving the pasta water. If you forget and dump it down the drain, leftover mushroom soaking water or vegetable broth is a nice substitute to add more flavor, but you really want that additional starch to bring the sauce together.

Why Is Pasta Alla El Chacinero Destined To Be Your New Favorite?

Beyond fideo, Mexican pasta dishes are traditionally few and far between. Most notably, all seem to rely heavily on tomatoes, which is nice in the summer, but a bummer for colder months. Lean into comfort with a dish lighter on produce, heavier on a decadently creamy, base and is infused with the slow-simmer essence of umami. That velvety sauce coats the pasta generously, the spices of meatless chorizo growing warmer and brighter with each bite. It’s a perfect one-pot dish that needs no additional sides or garnishes to be a wholly satisfying meal.

If you’re tired of standard bolognese or cream sauces, Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms stems are just what you need for a frugal, fun, and fresh twist on the usual noodle. Waste not, want not, and eat better. For a dish originally famous for its pork, it sure does well without any meat at all.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments