Tag: noodles

Charred Noodles for Char Kway Teow

Sizzling, hissing, and popping violently, char kway teow is a dish that truly does speak for itself. If you don’t hear it first, you’ll definitely smell it; heady plumes of smoke carry the intoxicating aroma of caramelized soy sauce through the air for at least a dozen city blocks. Though one of a million noodles, it’s the fine details that set this one apart as a worthy headliner on any Malaysian menu.

A Brief History of Char Kway Teow

Originating from Chinese cuisine, particularly Teochew and Hokkien traditions, the dish’s name itself is rooted in Hokkien language, with “char” signifying stir-frying, “kway” representing rice cakes, and “teow” meaning flat. As Chinese immigrants settled in Southeast Asia, including Malaysia and Singapore, they brought their culinary heritage with them.

Over time, these traditions merged with local ingredients and tastes, resulting in the evolution of char kway teow. It became a popular street food, served in hawker stalls across the region due to its affordability, hearty nature, and bold flavors. Though the exact date and place of its creation remains uncertain, char kway teow has established itself as an iconic and beloved Southeast Asian dish, celebrated for its unique flavor as much as its cultural significance.

Key Characteristics

Many other suspiciously similar stir fries share numerous elements with char kway teow. While undoubtedly delicious in their own rights, none can compare with this singular culinary feat. The essential factors that define the dish include:

  • Flat Rice Noodles: The star of the show, these wide, silky rice noodles provide a chewy foundation for the dish. They’re similar to pad thai noodles but wider. These noodles are known for their chewy texture and ability to absorb the flavors of the sauce.
  • Dark Soy Sauce: The primary seasoning for char kway teow is dark soy sauce, which gives the dish its signature dark color and a slightly sweet and savory flavor. The dark soy sauce used in char kway teow is thicker and richer than regular soy sauce, clinging better to the other ingredients as well.
  • High Heat Cooking: Char kway teow is traditionally cooked in a hot wok over high heat, which imparts a smoky “wok hei” flavor to the dish. This cooking technique adds depth and complexity like nothing else. This is the absolute most important part of the whole concept. Without that char, those subtly blackened edges and smoky finish, it’s just another bowl of generic noodles.

How It’s Made

Truth be told, technique is even more important than specific ingredients in this case. Intense heat ripples through the whole kitchen when the wok is set on full blast, smoldering and searing anything in seconds. Replicating the flavor and texture that creates through any other means is impossible, which is why it’s so hard to master at home. Few consumer stoves can get hot enough, and even if they do, most people don’t want to commit to setting off their smoke alarms for a weekday dinner. It’s such a popular street food for the same reason; open air markets pair better with live fire cooking than enclosed spaces.

Pungent garlic, soy sauce, and sometimes chili paste season those blistered noodles in a literal flash in the pan. Traditional recipes may include prawns, sausages, or other meat, but vegetarian versions are just as common, omitting or replacing the protein with fried tofu. Vegetables are used sparingly, leaning heavily on bean sprouts to add a fresh, crunchy contrast to the savory medley.

(Side note: I can’t help myself and tend to go overboard with zucchini, mushrooms, bok choy, and anything else that happens to be in the fridge, as seen here. In this case, do as I say, not as I do!)

Never A Bad Time For Noodles

Unlike the standard American diet that normalizes only certain dishes as “breakfast foods,” savvy Malay people will happily enjoy noodles throughout the day. Whether as a hearty breakfast, a quick lunch, or a comforting dinner, it never fails to satisfy. You’ll find char kway teow everywhere, on the menus of street stalls, hawker centers, and even upscale restaurants, as a testament to its enduring popularity.

Like any noteworthy noodles, char kway teow is more than just a dish; it’s a testament to the vibrant tapestry of Southeast Asian culinary traditions. With its broad appeal, dynamic flavors, and endless possibilities for adaptation, it’s a safe bet for a winning meal.

Hannah (BitterSweet)12 Comments

Noodles You Should Know: Liangfen

Jiggly, wiggly JELL-O is a staple of early American desserts, persisting to this day as a favorite of the young, the old, and the boozy reveler alike. Most associate it with sweet desserts, packaged in all sorts of fruity flavors, but it hasn’t always been that way. In fact, gelatin was traditionally a savory ingredient, featuring prominently in some questionable gelled salads, or for the upper class, aspics instead. Of course, there’s so much more to it than that, especially when you consider different plant-based gelling agents. Thus, whenever I see “Sichuan green bean jello” on a menu, I’ll always jump at the chance to place my order.

Better known as liangfen, it’s not actually made from JELL-O or any animal-based gelatin at all. More accurately, it’s typically made from the starch of either mung beans or green peas. It may come as a surprise when it arrives at the table in bright white, blocky rectangular lengths, stained red with chili oil, boasting a hint of green color only from scallions or celery leaves on top.

What are Liangfen, AKA Cold Jelly Noodles?

Slippery, with a short bite that’s much softer than a chewy wheat-based noodle, they’re very easy to eat, provided you can gently coax them onto your chopsticks. It can be tricky to pick up more than one strand at a time, especially if they’re slicked with a richly umami sauce. Consider them the tofu of noodles, being almost completely flavorless before soaking in a deeply flavorful sauce. Mala Sichuan peppercorns, black vinegar, pungent chopped garlic, toasted sesame seed, and red hot oil sizzling with chilies are all essential for this dish.

Make Your Own Liangfen

As a naturally, “accidentally” vegan noodle, there are plenty of excellent recipes online that need no modification. It’s incredibly easy to make and fully customizable to your tastes, in case you’d prefer a sauce with less heat or more acid.

Where Do Liangfen Come From?

Served cold, the contrasting heat of the spices is what makes it so addicting. Especially on hot summer days, it’s incredibly refreshing while making you sweat at the same time. Fittingly, the name liangfen translates to “cold starch” or “cool noodle” in English. Born some time within the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912,) it began life as a humble street food in the Sichuan province, spreading quickly to proper eateries and even fine dining restaurants.

Eat Liangfen For Your Health!

For the health-conscious, there’s a lot to love about this sleek, silky treat, too. Low in calories and fat, it’s also rich in fiber and quality carbohydrates, promoting digestive health and providing a sustainable source of plant-based energy. Since these noodles are made of starch instead of wheat, they’re gluten-free and free of all major allergens.

Upon first bite, the unique gelatinous texture, seeming to melt in your mouth, grabbing your attention as something far outside the realm of western culinary creations. The interplay of flavors is a symphony of sensations; the tangy vinegar dances with the umami soy sauce, while the chili oil adds a crescendo of heat. Altogether, it’s an extraordinary noodle that should be a prominent guest at your table, too.

Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Can You Hakka It?

Long before the rise (and fall) of so-called “fusion” cuisine, Hakka noodles managed to carve out a special place for themselves in Indo-Chinese culture. Seen only on some northern Indian menus, these noodles have transcended geopolitical boundaries to become a beloved staple by people of all walks of life.

The Origins of Hakka Noodles

Hakka noodles trace their roots back to the Hakka people, also referred to as the Hakka Han or Hakka Chinese. Unlike other Chinese communities, the Hakka Han don’t all come from one single region in China. The name Hakka means “guest families” in Cantonese. Made up of migrants fleeing the wars and upheaval during the Qing dynasty, they gradually dispersed and settled across the Indian subcontinent.

The city of Kolkata (formerly Calcutta) in India became the new home to many of these displaced refugees and over time, their vibrant fusion of Chinese techniques and Indian flavors were adopted as iconic, beloved street food dishes in India and beyond.

What Makes Hakka Noodles Special

Hakka noodles stand out from their other noodle brethren due to their distinctive texture and flavor. Made from a dense wheat flour dough, the strands are thin and long, with a remarkably resilient, springy, and chewy bite.

Sweet soy sauce is the primary flavor, leaning in on aromatic garlic and ginger, rather than the potent spices that create dazzling Indian curries. Due to their lack of overt heat, some consider Hakka noodles to be something relegated to the kid’s menu, but to let only youngsters relish this simple pleasure would be a true shame. They serve as a blank canvas, readily absorbing the flavors of any ingredients you throw at them.

Serving Suggestions for Hakka Noodles

Thanks to the long history of vegetarianism in India, paired with the expense and scarcity of meat, most recipes are naturally plant-based. Any vegetables available are fair game, but the most common additions include:

  • Bell peppers
  • Cabbage
  • Shredded carrots
  • Scallions
  • Bean sprouts

If such a mild approach sounds dull to you, you’re not alone. That’s why you’d very likely find fiery condiments tableside to add to taste, such as:

Hakka Noodles; Always A Welcome Guest

To this day, you can often find Hakka noodles being prepared on sizzling street-side carts in India, where skilled vendors effortlessly toss the noodles in giant woks, creating an enticing aroma that lures passersby. The art of making Hakka noodles is still being passed down through generations, preserving the original spirit and pride that goes into every plate.

Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments

Noodles You Should Know: Thukpa

Pronounced with a percussive rhythm akin to a drum, or perhaps a steady heartbeat, thukpa lives up to its name. Granted, “thukpa” is simply the generic Tibetan word for any soup or stew with noodles, which doesn’t exactly inspire great poetry. Dig a little deeper and you’ll learn that “thuk” means “heart.” This understanding clearly speaks to how deeply a bowlful of the stuff can restore the spirit, beyond merely satisfying basic bodily hunger. Warming the eater’s very heart, right down to the core, in brutally cold winters and times of need, it’s the original soup for the soul.

Those noodles, however, are the real star of the show, sometimes dwarfing the liquid to such a small component of the dish, you’d think it was just a brothy sauce. Many different variations exist, changing ratios and ingredients across cultural boundaries, but the basics remain the same: Noodles, soup, and vegetables.

My personal favorite is the Nepalese version, which is often naturally vegetarian and has a spicier flavor profile. Not many vegetables can thrive in the harsh tundra, so inclusions remain basic: cabbage, onions, carrots, and radishes are the prevailing options. Modern versions take advantage of greater access to worldwide markets, adding everything from bell peppers to tomatoes to green peas, and relish the opportunity to finish each bowl with fresh herbs like cilantro and scallions.

Types of Thukpa

As more of an umbrella term than the definition of a single dish, thukpa include many different, distinctive combinations of noodles and soups.

  • Thenthuk: A Tibetan soup with hand-pulled flat noodles.
  • Gyathuk: A Chinese-fusion soup featuring round chow mein noodles, often with chicken or pork.
  • Pathug or Thugpa: A Tibetan variant with hand-rolled, pinched noodles that are more like dumplings or gnocchi in texture.

Other spellings and pronunciations include thuppa, thuggpa, and drethug. Occasionally you’ll come across shortcut recipes that call for rice noodles, but this is another contemporary twist that purists would disqualify.

How To Make Thukpa

There’s no wrong way to make thukpa, just different approaches based on your needs and wants.

Any vegetable is fair game, in any quantity you want, which is also true of spices. Indian versions will include garam masala as a quick flavor boost, leaning on cumin for more body. It’s always a treat with homemade noodles, but there’s no shame in using regular spaghetti or fettuccine as a shortcut.

Thukpa is a food born of strife, created by migrants dispersed throughout the Himalayas to seek refuge as they forged new lives in Sikim, Darjeeling, Arunachal Pradesh, Nepal, and Bhutan, transforming the dish at every turn. It serves a need, both physical and emotional, while weaving together communities. It embodies the warmth of togetherness, reminding us that food has the power to forge connections beyond borders.

Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Noodles You Should Know: Áp Chảo Chay

No matter how many noodles you know and love, there’s always more to discover. It’s a distinct joy and benefit to eating out; exploring global flavors without hopping on a plane, using your vacation days, or even coordinating a babysitter to watch the kids. Ordinary days are transformed into unforgettable ones with a single bite. That’s the story of how I first found out about Áp Chảo Chay.

What Is Áp Chảo Chay?

Áp Chảo means both pan-fried and sauteed, so what you get are sheets of fused noodles that are chewy on the inside and crispy on the outside. It’s a multidimensional textural experience, and every bite is a bit different. Some pieces have a resounding crunch like a deep-fried wonton, while others have more of an al dente give. It’s unlike any other straight-forward stir fry and something everyone should have in their lives.

Chay, of course, simply means vegetarian, so you get an assortment of tender-crisp fresh veggies and tofu, rounding out the meal.

Where Can You Find Áp Chảo Chay?

This Vietnamese specialty is surprisingly hard to come by in the states, which is why it took me so long to get my first, completely revolutionary taste. It’s not something you can simply order if it’s not on the menu, given the difficulty and time involved, but it’s worth asking around if restaurant owners know another place that could accommodate.

Many versions on the concept exist, of course, the most popular of which being Áp Chảo Bo, with beef. If you happen to find this, you can easily request it without meat; the rest of the dish is usually “accidentally” vegan without eggs or dairy, but you will want to specify in case fish sauce or oyster sauce come into play.

The specific noodles can vary as well. Some use wide, flat rice noodles (as seen here) while others use thinner pho noodles or even vermicelli.

How To Make Áp Chảo Chay

Though simple in concept, success rests solely on technique for this dish. To be honest, I haven’t been able to get it right yet, but there are plenty of people much more experienced in the art that can help guide you.

  • Wandering Chopsticks is truly the online authority on Vietnamese cooking, so I’d trust this version of Pho Ap Chao Bo implicitly. To veganize, replace the fish sauce with soy sauce, and use your favorite plant-based protein instead of beef.
  • Cooking Off The Cuff takes a more soupy approach, filling a bowl for this Phở Áp Chảo with hot broth to finish. Same notes for veganizing, though you could use vegetarian oyster sauce here if you can find it.

Not everything needs to be spicy, but if you’re a heat-seeker, stock up on hot chili oil to lavish on top. That bright finishing touch makes an already excellent dish utterly unassailable.

Try a new noodle tonight. There’s still so many more out there, waiting to be savored.

Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments

Ballad for Balaleet

Equal parts sweet and salty, balaleet (بلاليط) is the greatest breakfast you’ve never heard of. Toasted vermicelli is enriched with butter and perfumed by aromatic rosewater, saffron, and cardamom, creating an indescribable taste sensation. It’s both delicate and bold, hearty but decadent, deceptively simple on paper with wildly complex flavor harmonies. Top that all off with a tender omelette and you can start to understand why it’s a signature dish of Emirati cuisine.

As it’s sweetened with sugar, sometimes with a heavy hand, balaleet can be served cold for dessert, too. Think of it like rice porridge / rice pudding; versatile and endlessly adaptable based on personal preferences. My take leans more savory than most, balanced out by my not-so-secret ingredient: Sugimoto shiitake powder.

Key Ingredients and Substitutions

There are no rules for making excellent balaleet, only recommendations. Experiment to create the version you enjoy best.

  • Spaghetti: I used regular spaghetti for the sake of convenience, but you could swap in any long noodle, like angel hair or linguine, and make it gluten-free if needed.
  • Vegan butter and olive oil: Let’s not kid ourselves: The generous measure of plant-based fats are a large factor in making this dish so crave-worthy. If you need to eat oil-free, though, you can try going without. Toast the noodles in a dry skillet before proceeding with the recipe, and make sure you use a non-stick skillet for the omelette.
  • Rosewater: Try orange flower water instead if that’s more readily available. In a pinch, a tiny splash of vanilla extract and lemon juice can fit the bill.
  • Saffron: Real saffron is a splurge, no doubt about it. Save your money by using a pinch of ground turmeric instead.
  • Sugar: Some recipes can have upwards of 1/2 cup of granulated sugar per serving! I prefer much less, but you can always add more to taste. To make this recipe sugar-free, add a few drops of liquid stevia, as needed.
  • Sugimoto shiitake powder: While there’s no replicating that deep umami flavor, absent of any overtly mushroom-y taste, you can make do by swapping the plain water with shiitake mushroom soaking water instead.
  • Chickpea flour: The key to making a tender, fluffy plant-based omelette, chickpea flour is an essential staple that should always be on hand. That said, if you’d prefer a simpler approach, you could skip the homemade omelette altogether and heat up a JUST folded egg.

Another Note About Noodles

Skip right to the good stuff and start with fideos to make this recipe even easier. I like the more random lengths created by breaking up full strands, plus it’s just fun to break things.

  1. Place your long noodles in a strong zip-top bag. Don’t use a flimsy plastic shopping bag because it will surely tear and make a mess in the process.
  2. Press the air out of the bag and make sure it’s sealed.
  3. Either use your hands to pick up and crack the noodles at random, or smack it gently with a rolling pin, until the pieces are all roughly 1 – 2 inches in length.

Traditionally, the noodles aren’t toasted, but I love the color, extra nutty flavor, and toothsome texture this creates. You’re welcome to skip this step if you’re in a rush.

How To Serve Balaleet

Forget cold cereal flakes; given the balance of fiber and protein, balaleet is the true breakfast of champions. As such, it’s a complete meal on its own. My only suggestions would be for drink pairings, such as:

  • Chai tea
  • Strong coffee
  • Fresh squeezed orange juice

For added heft, you could also incorporate or serve on the side:

  • Whole chickpeas
  • Sauteed or caramelized onions
  • Hash browns or home fries

If you haven’t yet tried balaleet, you’re missing out. If you have, I’d implore you to give it another go with shiitake powder as an all-purpose flavor booster. Seamlessly amplifying both sweet and savory notes, you may be surprised by what a big difference this small addition can make.

Continue reading “Ballad for Balaleet” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments