The Stuff of Dreams

What is it about Thanksgiving that invokes the sudden urge to stuff various foods into others? I don’t mean the way we stuff our faces to excess, but the stuffing of bread and wild rice into turkey; ducks and hens into turkey; pretty much anything conceivably edible into turkey. It’s as if the poor bird were less an entree and more a suitcase, over-packed with the savory odds and ends we only think of once a year and otherwise never use. Furtively shoved inside as if flavor might be confiscated at customs, no one seems to question the tradition, even if it makes little logical sense.

I’m not immune to this impulse, irrational as it may be. You’d understand and (hopefully) forgive me if you saw what I was up against, though. Spotting the most adorable dumpling squash at the store, perfectly plump and rotund, I was instantly smitten. Still swooning at the plunder in my shopping cart, I was already planning how best to eviscerate my darlings and replace their guts with green beans. Brutal, perhaps, but far better than wrangling giblets out of de-feathered fowl, don’t you think?

Like a dog’s instinct to howl at the moon, satisfying yet meaningless, I’m powerless to rein in this primal impulse. Dumpling squash are undeniably the best edible vessels nature can devise, but any similar small squash will do, like delicata or honeynut squash. Using green bean casserole as the filling has the added, unintentional benefit of turning two sides into one entree, so if you’re a veggie-lover like me that would rather leave giant hunks of dry, bland protein off the plate, this is the best of all worlds.

Encased in the plush, subtly sweet flesh of roasted winter squash, tender-crisp green beans cozy up to a mushroom-laced mélange that no ceramic baking dish can contain. A halo of golden fried onions gives it that unmistakable nostalgic flavor that no Thanksgiving table is complete without.

Maybe its the yawning empty cavity of a hollow gourd that demands to be filled. Maybe it’s our subconscious way of holding on to fleeting warmth, of cramming in joy wherever we can find it, of stacking up all the things we love in a pile so high that it’s impossible to let any sadness in. If there was ever a time to get stuffed, this is it. If we’re lucky, we won’t just fill our plates; we’ll fill our hearts, too.

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Cabbage Patch Kids

Humble and homely, if not downright ugly, stuffed cabbage is not a glamorous dish. No one is out there on Instagram hyping it up; chefs aren’t tripping over themselves to get it onto tasting menus; few, if any, pop culture references can be found. Given the incredible history of the dish, knowing what it’s endured and the countless cultures it’s sustained, this is a terrible shortcoming in our current society. I’m here to call out the stuffed cabbage naysayers because what it lacks in looks, it makes up for in multitudes of flavor.

It’s the kind of dish that feels like a hug in food form. Soft, buttery cabbage leaves, snugly wrapped around a savory filling, then bathed in a rich tomato sauce can be found in kitchens from Eastern Europe to the Middle East, comforting hungry bellies for generations. Affordable pantry staples make it accessible on any budget, despite tasting luxuriously rich with caramelized onions and slowly simmered herbs and spices. Healthy, filling, and downright delicious, it’s not the next viral hit, but it’ll be a superstar on the dinner table.

Shiitake Mushrooms: The Secret to an Irresistible Filling

Swapping out the traditional ground beef, pork, or lamb isn’t a challenge. Vegetarian versions have been around for almost as long, typically relying on lentils for that crucial plant protein. Nutritionally unparalleled but gastromically lacking, all it takes are Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms to add an air of decadence to the lowly legume. These earthy, meaty mushrooms have an incredible ability to mimic the texture and depth of ground meat, especially when finely chopped. Sautéed until their umami essence is infused into the entire filling, it’s a savory little bundle good enough to eat solo or as a side.

Swaps and Substitutions

There’s no wrong way to stuff a cabbage. In fact, the very idea of such limitless possibilities stopped me from making stuffed cabbage sooner. What’s the RIGHT way to do it? What’s the BEST formula? The good news and bad new is there’s no such thing, and you’re free to choose your own adventure. A few key considerations for customization:

  • Cabbage: Plain green cabbage is classic, but I like Napa or savoy, for a subtle sweetness and more tender bite.
  • Grains: Once cooked, any grain will do. My preference is for something light and fluffy like quinoa, as it absorbs the savory mushroom juices and gives the filling a perfect balance of texture and substance. Any type of rice, bulgur, or barley are excellent candidates, among others.
  • Seasonings: Fresh parsley and dill are very Eastern European, a dynamic duo that provide brightness and freshness, cutting through the richness of the mushrooms with a pop of flavor. Feel free to take more inspiration from Asia, with cilantro, ginger, and lemongrass, or the Middle East with a generous sprinkling of za’atar instead.
  • Sauce: A great tomato sauce is a must for stuffed cabbage… Or is it? The vast majority of American stuffed cabbage recipes tap this tangy red gravy as the perfect foil for the savory vegetable roulades. When you’re ready to depart from the beaten path, try red pepper romesco, beet no-mato, creamy alfredo, or even a coconut curry sauce, to name a few.

Get Stuffed: It’s Easier Than You Think

Making stuffed cabbage might sound like a hassle, but it’s not any more work than enchiladas.

  1. Prep the Cabbage: The first step is blanching the cabbage leaves to make them more pliable. Typically, you’d bring a large pot of water to a boil, carefully peel off the outer leaves, and drop them in for just a few minutes until softened. I, however, am lazy and impatient, so I just microwave them briefly. Same results, less effort.
  2. Make the Filling: Sauté the aromatics until lightly caramelized and fragrant. Mince the shiitake mushrooms, cap, stems, and all, then fold them into the mix, letting them cook down, releasing their flavorful juices. Once they’re browned, stir in the grains, spices, and herbs.
  3. Assemble the Rolls: Lay each cabbage leaf flat on your work surface and spoon a generous amount of the mushroom-grain mixture into the center. Carefully roll up each leaf, tucking in the sides to keep the filling snug and secure.
  4. Cook the Rolls: Spread half of the sauce across the bottom of a casserole dish and nestled the cabbage rolls on top. Cover and bake for an hour. This slow cooking ensures that the cabbage is perfectly tender and that all the flavors get a chance to meld together.
  5. Serve and Enjoy: Top with the remaining sauce and serve hot!

Cabbage Worthy of a King

Of all the hundreds of thousands of stuffed cabbage recipes out there, hailing from all corners of the globe, this one is a clear contender. Authentic? Not at all. Traditional? Not from my family, that’s for sure. Delicious? That, I’ll give a resounding YES! It’s a perfect dish for a cozy dinner with family, a holiday meal, or a hearty weeknight supper. Meat is moot when you have umami shiitake mushrooms at the heart of it all.

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Moussaka Brouhaha

Stop calling moussaka “Greek lasagna.” There’s no pasta, no marinara sauce, and cheese is minimal, at best. Moussaka, the national dish of Greece, is so much more than another miscellaneous casserole. Complex and distinctive, no one would ever confuse the two if they ever had a taste.

Tender eggplant supports the hearty and robustly seasoned protein in a red wine-infused sauce, featuring onions, garlic, and aromatic spices like cinnamon and nutmeg. My small twist on tradition here is to skip the meat, of course, and opt for earthy, naturally beefy Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms instead. The pièce de résistance is a velvety béchamel sauce, covering the whole dish like a plush, velvety blanket.

What Is Moussaka?

The history of moussaka is as rich and diverse as the layers of flavors in the dish itself. The roots of moussaka can be traced back to the Middle East, where it’s believed to have originated from the Arabic word “musaqqa’a,” meaning chilled or cooled, reflecting the dish’s early preparation methods.

As the culinary influence of the Middle East spread, moussaka found its way into the Mediterranean and Balkan regions, each culture incorporating its own unique twist on the dish. The earliest versions were likely simple combinations of layered vegetables and spices, reflecting the agricultural abundance of the region.

When moussaka arrived in Greece, it underwent a transformation that would become the blueprint for the beloved dish we know today. The Greek moussaka typically features layers of eggplant, minced meat (often lamb or beef), tomatoes, onions, and a creamy béchamel sauce. The dish is then baked and served hot, creating a harmonious blend of flavors and textures.

Natural Variations

The evolution of moussaka doesn’t stop there. As it traveled through various regions, each culture added its own distinctive touch.

  • In Turkey, moussaka might include zucchini alongside or instead of eggplant.
  • In the Middle East, chickpeas and additional vegetables might help stretch the meat filling.
  • In the Balkans, sliced potatoes run parallel with the eggplant for more defined, sizable layers.

What Makes A Great Moussaka?

The best moussaka strikes a balance across all strata, creating a dish that is both comforting and invigorating. The marker of success is when each bite captures the essence of Mediterranean cuisine, inviting you to savor each layer and appreciate the complexity of this iconic dish.

  • Tender, Hearty Protein: Meat is moot when you start with a base of crumbled tofu for substance and minced Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms for style. Freezing, thawing, and draining the tofu first is the secret to creating a texture eerily similar to ground meat. Umami shiitake mushrooms enhance that illusion with ample free glutamate that creates an unmistakable umami sensation. Even when finely minced, their thick, chewy, tender caps ensure that every mouthful has a completely satisfying bite.

  • Luscious Béchamel: One of the “mother sauces” of French cuisine made from a simple roux and seasoned with nutmeg, the some versions take it a step further by adding eggs for an even more decadent texture. Bypass all of that by simply using tahini and a pinch of sulfurous black salt instead.
  • Layered Perfection: Sliced eggplants are typically salted to draw out excess moisture and bitterness, before being added to the mix, but that shouldn’t be the end of the story. Taking an extra few minutes to then roast the vegetables does wonders to concentrate the flavor and unlock subtle sweetness through caramelization. That attention to detail also ensures cleaner layers that won’t water down the dish.

Tips For Success and Serving Suggestions

Making a layered casserole like this can be something of a production. Though it does take time and effort, it’s completely feasible when you break it down! Don’t forget how to fill your plate with flare when you’re ready to eat.

  • Patience is a virtue. If you can wait for the moussaka to cool, you’ll be able to get much cleaner slices with consistent layers. As you might have guessed from these photos, this is not a quality I possess. Even if you end up scooping it out piping hot with a spoon, I promise it will be delicious in any form.

  • Make ahead. Moussaka tastes even better the next day, after all the herbs and spices have had time to mingle, so feel free to bake it well in advance and reheat it before serving. It can be stored in the fridge for 6 to 7 days, or frozen for up to 6 months. Simply allow it to thaw to room temperature and reheat at 350 degrees for 15 – 20 minutes before enjoying.
  • Perfect pairings. While moussaka is a whole feast in and of itself, you can stretch the meal to feed more with a few simple side dishes. Top recommendations include sautéed greens, salad, bread, and tzatziki.

The popularity of moussaka has transcended cultural boundaries, becoming a beloved dish around the world. Its versatility allows for endless variations that blend elements from different culinary traditions. It’s about time we include Japanese inspiration into that mix, thoughout the unassailable powerhouse of tofu and shiitake mushrooms.

Today, moussaka stands as a testament to the interconnectedness of food cultures, showcasing how a dish can travel across borders, absorbing influences, and evolving into something uniquely delicious. With this latest evolution and many more sure to come, moussaka continues to be a symbol of shared culinary heritage and the joy of discovering new flavors through the ages.

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Give The Gift of Tamales For Christmas

Christmastime in Texas means tamales.

From sunrise to sunset, the air is thick with the smell of masa wafting from open windows. Slowly but surely, the bundles stack up, two dozen, three dozen at a time, before plunging into the steamer or freezer to await their fates. Wrapped with care in corn husks and banana leaves, rather than paper and tinsel, each parcel truly is a gift to receive.

Tamale Traditions

Tamales aren’t just for Christmas, of course. Ancient Mesoamerican civilizations, including the Aztecs and Mayans, enjoyed tamales as a portable and convenient food source for sustenance during long journeys and battles. Anything and everything was fair game in terms of fillings, from meats and vegetables to sweets like fruits and honey.

When Spanish conquistadors arrived in the Americas in the 16th century, their mission to spread Christianity ensnared the humble tamale as a celebratory food. Already a staple of Mexican and Latin American cuisine, tamales have a unique way of symbolizing the spirit of togetherness and unity that defines the holiday season.

Crafting tamales is a labor of love, a communal affair that brings family and friends together. As generations gather in the kitchen, sharing stories and laughter while assembling each bundle one by one, much of their importance is about the actual assembly, rather than the end product alone.

Come For The Craft, Stay For The Feast

Naturally, we wouldn’t be here talking about tamales if it was just a fun arts and craft project. Eye-catching green masa makes a more festive impression than typical yellow cornmeal, especially when offset by equally vibrant salsa roja on top and a red meatless stuffing hidden inside. While I love a simple veggie tamale, often made with zucchini, corn, and all sorts of peppers, I wanted to bring a more substantial offering, that eats like a whole meal, to this dinner party.

Who needs meat when you have tender red beans adding ample amounts of plant-protein, infused with the crimson color of red beets, and amplified by the naturally meaty richness of Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms?

Roughly chopped caps and stems create the compelling illusion of ground beef, deeply umami and toothsome in a way that defies written descriptions. Somehow juicy, chewy, tender, and springy all at once, the thicker Koshin variety are unparalleled in their quality. If you splurge on just one thing this holiday season, make it the mushrooms.

Corn Husks vs. Banana Leaves

Corn husk-wrapped tamales are more commonly seen across Texas, as an easily accessible, affordable ingredient, also owing to their Mexican heritage. Banana leaves, on the other hand, are favored in some Central and South American regions. I’m not going to say that one is better than the other, but after finally finding frozen banana leaves at H-Mart, I can’t go back.

Ready to use right out of the package rather than waiting for them to soak, they’re quicker and easier to work with, large and accommodating for any amount of filling, flexible and less likely to tear, and most importantly, incredibly fragrant. Subtly floral, slightly fruity, and even reminiscent of freshly cut grass, it reminds me of pandan, if it was spoken at a whisper.

That said, the flavor imparted by banana leaves is quite gentle and won’t overwhelm the flavors of the dish. Instead, it complements and enhances the food, adding a touch of tropical freshness and a subtle layer of complexity. Banana leaves also retain more moisture, yielding the most succulent tamales I’ve ever had.

Cooking Options

Once you’ve decided on your wrapper, you have more choices left to make: What’s the best way to cook tamales?

  • Steaming is recommended, as a time-honored method that never fails. There’s more than one way to steam, however, which brings me to my favorite approach…
  • Pressure cooking gives you the same results as stove-top steaming, in a fraction of the time. Plus, it helps keep the kitchen cooler; an important consideration for balmy Texas weather.
  • Grilling is a great alternative, taking the party outside, and imparting a wonderful smoky flavor to the food.
  • Baking in the oven can work, in a pinch, but does create a firmer, drier texture. For best results, place the tamales in a baking dish alongside a ramekin of water, and wrap the whole thing tightly with foil to keep the steam inside.

Make-Ahead and Storage Tips

To ease the holiday hustle and bustle, you can make these tamales ahead of time. After they have cooled completely, store them in airtight containers in the refrigerator for up to three days. Alternatively, freeze them for longer storage, making sure to wrap each tamale individually before placing them in a freezer-safe bag or container. Reheat tamales by steaming or microwaving until heated through.

Making tamales to celebrate events big and small is a way of preserving Latin American and Mexican heritage, which has now become a Texan and overall American tradition, too. Though dressed up in the red and green trappings of Christmas, these tamales are for everyone. Full of warmth, love, and the gift of good taste, it doesn’t even matter that they happen to be vegan and gluten-free, too.

When you unwrap a tamale during your own holiday celebrations, whatever they may be, the experience is universal. Pass the tamales; share the joy.

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Top 10 Vegan Thanksgiving Entrees

Since the beginning of time, vegans around the world have faced the same three questions from otherwise well-meaning friends:

  1. Where do you get your protein?
  2. Don’t plants have feelings too?
  3. What can you eat for Thanksgiving?

That’s a lot to unpack, not due to the complexity of the topics, but the fact such uncertainties still exist in our day and age. For all those still wondering, let me give you the abridged version:

  1. Plants.
  2. No.
  3. Plenty.

Of course there’s much more to it than that. Thanksgiving, a keystone holiday deeply entrenched in tradition, deserves deeper thought. Even an omnivorous feast takes weeks of preparation, so why shouldn’t a meatless one command the same careful planning? Now is the time to gather your recipe inspiration and believe me, I have a real veritable cornucopia of options to share.

Sides are simple so let’s focus in on the main event. Vegan Thanksgiving entrees tend to stump even seasoned pros, so there’s no shame in seeking help. Before you buy a frozen roast from the grocery store, consider the full spectrum of possibilities that are vegetable-focused, protein rich, and infused with all the freshest flavors of the season. It doesn’t have to be a big production to be worthy of a celebration. Having any homemade plant-based main dish on the table is a reason to be thankful.

Top 10 Vegan Thanksgiving Entrees

Think it's hard to eat vegan on Thanksgiving? Think again! Here are the best meatless mains for Thanksgiving dinner to feed a hungry crowd or a small, intimate gathering.