Ideas in Phyllosophy
For a ready-made ingredient that’s widely found in mainstream markets, phyllo dough seems to produce a disproportionate amount of angst. Otherwise savvy bakers blanch at the idea of working with the delicate pastry sheets, and while it does take a gentle touch, most fears are largely overblown. It’s not as if they’ll shatter if you merely look at them wrong. The best way to overcome any phyllo anxiety is to dive right in with some exposure therapy, and I have a truly foolproof recipe to start you on the path to recovery. Portokalopita is meant to be broken in the first place.
A Break-Out Success
My original motivation for making portokalopita was to use up scraps of leftover phyllo dough from previous projects. Since I can’t possibly throw away perfectly good food, those random shards sat in the freezer for a good long time before being unearthed. Dried out beyond their ideally pliable state, there was no separating the sheet to make a flaky layered pastry. Instead, portokalopita encourages you to rip or crumble them all up, drop them into a baking pan, and smother them with a yogurt-based custard. Absolutely zero finesse is required, you can use up all your extra phyllo scraps, and there’s no way to mess it up.
Proof Of The Pudding
Thought often described as a cake, the texture is much denser and more moist, like a rich baked pudding. A heavy pour of olive oil creates body and substance, cut by the bright acidity of fresh citrus. My version skips the eggs, of course, and cuts the sugar and oil substantially. It’s traditional to make a separate orange syrup to pour on top, but a light drizzle of vegan honey does the trick for my taste buds. I would never claim my version to be remotely authentic, but I do confidently declare it to be delicious.
Good In Bed
Breakfast in bed is the ultimate form of luxury, relaxation, and care. The average morning routine is merely a perfunctory sequence of events to get on with the day, if not a stressful mad scramble to get out the door. Having the opportunity to relish those early morning hours, being more thoughtful about very element, makes it so special.
While any food can be eaten for breakfast and also enjoyed in bed, there are certain options that are more compelling than others.
Prioritize Portability
Opt for dishes that travel easily from kitchen to bedside. Avoid items that easily wilt or become soggy, like delicate leafy greens. Recipes that keep well and can be made the day before are even better, like breakfast burritos or mini quiches.
Minimize the Mess
Sticky foods like syrup-drenched pancakes can be messy to navigate in bed. Opt for dishes with contained sauces, like eggless omelets or breakfast sandwiches, or offer syrup and condiments on the side in small, sealed containers.
Embrace Finger Foods
Think beyond the traditional plate and fork. Finger foods like skewers, whole berries and segmented citrus fruit, or avocado toast are easy to grab and enjoy without utensils, making for a more relaxed and comfortable experience.
Don’t Forget the Drinks
An invigorating beverage is essential. Opt for spill-proof travel mugs for hot drinks like coffee or tea, and include reusable straws for juices and smoothies.
With the basics covered, you or the person you love is free to enjoy the moment, not sweat the details. For an unforgettable breakfast in bed, here are my top recipe recommendations.
Wordless Wednesday: Bun and Done
Mission Burger Co Jr – Pastrami Burger
Rockstar Bagels – Rosemary Salt Bagel with Vegan Chive Cream Cheese
Mission Burger Co – Wild West Burger
Mission Burger Co – Classic Chicken Sandwich
Next Level Burger – Crispy Chicken Sandwich
Next Level Burger – Sliced Steak Sandwich
Naan-Stop
In a battle royal of flatbreads, I’d put money on naan coming out on top. Plush, buttery, and lightly charred on the outside, this simple staple is now one of the most integral parts of Indian cuisine known around the world. Garlic naan eclipses all other variants for obvious reasons, but an incredibly diverse and largely unsung range of unique naan breads exist beyond those basics. There’s keema naan, cheese naan, and my latest obsession, kashmiri naan.
What Is Kashmiri Naan?
Kashmiri naan breaks the mold of its savory siblings. Masterfully blending elements both sweet and savory, no two bites are the same, nor would you want them to be. It starts with the same pillow-soft, chewy dough we all know and love, stuffing it to the brim with dried fruits and nuts. Bursts of tart, rich, toasted notes punctuate each morsel, creating an irresistible flavor and textural contrast.
Not one content to leave things well enough alone, I’d like to propose pushing that experience even further with an umami assist from Sugimoto Shiitake. Adding an aromatic, earthy quality that rounds out the full bouquet of seasonings, they simultaneously amplify the intensity of those tart cherries, caramel-like dates and raisins, and nutty cashews and almonds. Best of all, this approach helps prevent food waste, since it’s an excellent opportunity to make use of the stems.
Breads Rising From the Himalayas
Kashmiri naan’s history is as rich as its flavor. While the word “naan” itself comes from the Persian word for “bread,” the distinctive variation in the spotlight today flourishes in the Kashmir region, nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas. Kashmir, a land known for its abundance of fruits and nuts, naturally incorporated these treasures into its breads. This innovation not only offered a deeply gratifying culinary indulgence, but also provided a source of portable energy for the people traversing this mountainous terrain.
Choose Your Own Culinary Adventure
Feeling adventurous? Don’t be afraid to experiment with your Kashmiri naan! Here are some ideas to make this recipe your own.
- Fruitful Swaps: Instead of cherries and raisins, try using dried apricots, cranberries, or currants instead.
- Go Nuts: Any nut will do, really! That means pistachios and pine nuts of course, but also walnuts, pecans, or even Brazil nuts, too.
- Spice it Up: Inject bolder flavor into the base with a pinch of cardamom, cinnamon, turmeric, and/or cayenne mixed straight into the dough.
- Always Umami: If you haven’t been saving up your shiitake stems, you can very happily use either Sugimoto donko or koshin caps as well.
Serving and Savoring
Kashmiri naan is incredibly versatile. It shines as a standalone treat, served warm for breakfast or snack, especially alongside a steaming cup of chai. Of course, just like your average naan, it also makes a fantastic accompaniment to curries, providing a sweet contrast to the savory spices. Personally, my favorite accompaniment is fiery sambal blended with a touch of vegan yogurt for a bold finishing touch.
While all naan is welcome on my table, Kashmiri naan is in the upper echelon of all yeast breads. The unconventional, incredibly compelling pairing of sweetness and umami, wrapped up in pan-fried, pillow-soft dough is impossible to top. For a taste sensation that’s both familiar and refreshingly different, look no further. Plain naan may need to step out of regular rotation for a while.
Ocas For Every Occasion
We have the Incas to thank for many of today’s hottest superfoods. Quinoa took the world by storm, rising from an unknown oddity to ubiquitous healthy staple seemingly overnight. Cassava is now the backbone of countless gluten-free baked goods, not to mention the darling of those following a paleo protocol. Maca, lucuma, and camu camu are all held in high esteem for flavoring desserts and creating natural supplements alike. Still, that’s only a fraction of the unique edible gifts Peru has to offer. Currently little known outside of South America, ocas may be next to make an appearance on that star-studded playbill.
What Are Ocas?
Though the comparisons are unavoidable, ocas are NOT just another type of potato. Also known as uqa in Quechua, the oca is a root vegetable native to the Andes, where its been grown since before known civilization. The tubers come in a wide range of shapes and sizes, but they are typically elongated and finger-like, ranging from 1 centimeter to 4 inches in length. (Pictured here are the smallest variety around, sometimes described as “mini” or “baby” ocas.)
Their skin is bumpy and comes in vibrant colors like red, yellow, orange, purple, and pink. The very same crop can yield a full spectrum sunset or just one shade. The leaves and flowers of the oca plant are also edible and can be used in salads or stir-fries, but are nearly impossible to export given their fragility.
Taste The Rainbow
Although color isn’t an indicator of flavor, not all ocas taste the same. The specific flavor profile can vary depending on the variety and how they are cooked. Complex and multifaceted, the taste can be described as combination of four primary elements:
- Sweet: Similar to sweet potato or butternut squash, with a a heightened perception of the natural sugars.
- Sour: A slight tartness, similar to green apples or raw rhubarb, which adds a refreshing note.
- Nutty: A hint of nuttiness, like chestnuts or hazelnuts, adding depth.
- Earthy: As you might expect from a root vegetable, similar to white potatoes or gold beets.
How To Eat And Cook With Ocas
Raw ocas are truly special; crisp and crunchy, with a slight snap when bitten, they make a stunning addition to a plate of dip and crudités. Though also fabulous when cooked, they begin to lose some of their defining characteristics that set them apart from supermarket spuds. Their colors become muted with heat and time, though that can be mitigated somewhat by using more acidic ingredients (lemon juice, vinegar, tomatoes) to preserve the volatile anthocyanins.
To reiterate, ocas are not potatoes, but they can be prepared any way you would cook potatoes.
- Boiling: This is a simple and effective method, resulting in a soft and tender texture. Cook whole ocas in boiling water for 10-15 minutes, or until tender when pierced with a fork.
- Roasting: Roasting brings out the natural sweetness and creates a crispy exterior. Preheat oven to 425 degrees, toss ocas with olive oil and herbs, and roast for 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown and fork-tender.
- Sautéing: Sautéed ocas are another delicious option. Heat oil in a pan over medium heat, add chopped ocas, and cook for 5-7 minutes, or until slightly softened. Add other ingredients like onions, peppers, or spices for added flavor.
- Frying: Ocas can be deep-fried for a crispy snack or side dish. However, this is the least healthy option due to added fat.
- Mashing: Mashed ocas are a smooth and creamy side dish. Boil ocas for 20 minutes until soft, then mash with vegan butter, non-dairy milk, and your favorite seasonings.
Recipe Ideas
What sets ocas apart from your average taproot is their versatility. Most focus on their savory applications, but they’re equally appealing when used in desserts. That means they’re fantastic…
- Candied, either by plunging them into hot caramelized sugar and let set, or tossed with aquafaba and coarse sugar.
- On top of yogurt or smoothie bowls.
- Tossed into fruit salads as well as leafy green salads.
- Baked into focaccia or used as a topping for flatbreads and pizzas.
- Mixed with diced potatoes and pan-fried as hash browns.
- Lightly simmered in soups or stews.
- Canned, either as pickles or sweet preserves and jam.
Keep An Eye Out For Ocas
With their unique flavor profile, diverse textures, and vibrant colors, ocas offer a wholly satisfying adventure for your taste buds. From simple raw snacks to creative culinary uses, this ancient Andean root vegetable is poised for a modern comeback.