On A Wing And A Prayer

Wings are flying high, taking off in popularity like other appetizers can only dream. Best known slathered in vinegary buffalo sauce, the appeal of a spicy, deep-fried morsel is undeniable. Spreading like wildfire across the American bar scene since their creation in 1964, many establishments live and die based on the power of their wings. Naturally, vegan options have proliferated alongside the groundswell of interest in plant-based meats, giving rise to even more creative alternatives.

What Are Vegan Wings?

Defining what separates a vegan wing from a sauced and tossed nugget is a blurry, squiggly fine line. Close comparisons can be made to boneless wings, with meat that’s less processed and uniform than breaded bites. Wings are larger, juicier, and yes, coated in either a sauce or dry rub. Most are fried but not all, with methods like baking or roasting being more popular with the healthier crowd. Most confusingly, vegan wings aren’t necessarily protein-based at all, as seen by the mushroom and cauliflower wings that are also achieving great acclaim.

For the sake of this investigation, it simply must be called a “wing” on the menu to qualify. From there, it must stand on its own culinary merits to succeed.

What Makes The BEST Vegan Wings?

Judging what makes a great wing isn’t rocket surgery. Anyone who’s a fan of the food can tell you that it comes down to three things: If they’re crispy, meaty, and saucy.

  1. Crispy: It’s all about that crunch. Whether it’s battered, breaded, or naked, the outside of a wing needs a crispy finish that can hold up to being drenched in sauce, too.
  2. Meaty: I’m talking about umami and heartiness here. A wing needs a savory depth of flavor and a bite that really satisfies. I don’t care if it’s soy, wheat, or vegetable; it needs to feel like the main event, not a side dish.
  3. Saucy or Well-Seasoned: Buffalo may have a choke hold on the market, but it’s far from the only condiment in town. I went out of my way to try alternate sauces whenever possible, always looking for something that’s bold, balanced, clings and coats the wings richly, and doesn’t completely obscure the flavor of the base.

The Best Vegan Wings In Austin, Texas

While it’s a snap to make your own meatless wings at home, that’s not what we’re here for today. When cravings strike, there’s nothing like the instant gratification of a hot, fresh, crispy plate to share with friends. Here are the restaurants doing it right around town.

Community Vegan pulls out all the stops with their Lemon Pepper Wangz. Oyster mushrooms are at the heart of these impeccably crisp, generously seasoned bites. Citrusy, sharp, earthy, and bright, they have a distinct warmth but not a fiery heat, appealing to all levels of spice tolerance. They’re not chicken and they make no bones about it; what they lack in meaty flavor, they make up for in sheer umami. Expertly fried to a resoundingly crunchy finish, these are quite possibly my favorites on the list.

Possum Pizza is a close second for their hyper-realistic Buffalo Wings! and BBQ Wings!, complete with sugar cane drumsticks to gnaw on. Considering the magic they work with plant-based fried chicken, it should come as no surprise that these masters of comfort classics knock this one out of the park. Richly coated with a vinegary hot sauce and accompanied by ranch dressing, it’s the closest experience you can get to eating a conventional plate of wings. Better yet, you can get a killer pizza at the same time.

Alamo Drafthouse Cinema has technically disqualified themselves by rebranding their Buffalo Cauliflower Wings as a Vegan Cauliflower Bites, but they’re so good, I have to give them a pass for now. Where else can you watch the latest movie releases on the big screen in cozy reclining chairs while enjoying a pile of breaded and fried florets? No matter what you call them, they’re bestsellers for good reason.

Tarrytown Bar & Bistro makes theirCauliflower Wings thicc, with two c’s. These are heavily breaded, battered, and fried hard, creating a daunting fortress that you’ll need a steak knife to break through. If you’re craving a serious crunch, this is the app for you.

Nom Burgers employs the same model of sugarcane drumsticks as Possum Pizza, but dresses them up in 4 different sauce options, and cooks them to a softer finish. These literally fall off the bone, making for easy, if messy, eating. Spicy Korean Q Wings are allegedly the most popular model, but Hot Buffalo Wings are the way to go if you ask me. The real pro tip here is to opt for jalapeño cilantro aioli for dipping instead of the standard issue side of ranch.

CM Smokehouse, tucked away in the shadow of Bouldin Acres, is a classic Texas BBQ-style food truck. Vegetarian options are scant and vegan even fewer, but they do offer Cauliflower Wings tossed with buffalo, BBQ, sweet chili sriracha, or lemon pepper. Avoid the white BBQ and all dipping sauces, and you should be golden. These are unique from other cauliflower options in that they’re fried naked, sans batter or breading, and fried heavily. Genuinely blackened, without any trappings of blackening seasonings, it’s a dish best enjoyed slightly tipsy. There’s a subtly acrid burnt flavor that goes along with the technique which may be off-putting to some.

Moonbowls operates out of ghost kitchens nationwide, specializing in quick service Korean-fusion cuisine, making them a surprising contender for plant-based wings. Battered and fried Korean BBQ Cauliflower Wings are available as a standalone appetizer or topper for bowls, salads, or plates. With a light, airy coating akin to tempura, these bites feel fresher and healthier than most, while still having that satisfying fried flavor.

Yard House deserves props for putting Gardein Wings on the menu before it was cool. While it’s a bummer that none of the dipping sauces are vegan, it’s a treat to choose between buffalo, whiskey black pepper, BBQ, Korean chili garlic, and a lemon pepper dry rub at a mainstream franchise that would otherwise only offer French fries for plant-based palates. Sure, they’re just cut and sauced tenders, but with a pint of beer, a bunch of friends, and sports on TV, it’s the total package that seals the deal.

From mild to wild, saucy to dry spiced, there’s truly a wing out there for everyone. Do you have a favorite on the list?

Hannah (BitterSweet)2 Comments

Stealthy Spice

Korean food in America is having a moment. Take a look at the latest hits from Trader Joe’s and you’ll see what I mean. They haven’t been able to keep frozen kimbap in stock since it launched almost a year ago, even after imposing strict purchasing limits. The beefless bulgogi has been winning over meat eaters and thrilling vegans as a premier protein, ideal for any cuisine, it turns out. They’ve introducing tteokbokki (spicy stir-fried rice cakes), japchae (clear sweet potato noodles), jumeokbap (rice balls), and much more to a whole new audience that’s absolutely eating it up. Kimchi paved the way, and yet I find that the weakest offering by far.

Beyond Basic Kimchi

Kimchi has been simplified to mean spicy fermented cabbage out here, which isn’t wrong, but not entirely right either. It’s like saying all pickles are made of cucumbers, disregarding the whole pantheon of fermented veggies in the cellar. What’s worse is the fact that many commercial American kimchi options are simply vinegared, not lacto-fermented. There’s no funk, no heat, no umami to speak of.

Rad Radishes

Kkakdugi (깍두기), made with chunks of radish, has become my new obsession. You won’t find it outside of Asian grocery stores, but the good news is that it’s one of the easiest forms of kimchi to make at home. It’s the equivalent of a quick pickle, ready in as little as an hour, or savored with more complex flavors in a week. Though daikon is traditional, I was inspired by an incredibly peppery batch of purple ninja radishes that seemed ideal to pair with the fiery heat of gochugaru.

Pungent in the best kind of way, ninja kimchi is an intense, bold, and invigorating condiment to accent your next meal. The vegetables stay crisp for a satisfying crunch, though they’re also fabulous added to stews for a softer bite. Naturally, any kind of radish will do, from the original daikon to garden variety breakfast radish, but flavors and colors do of course vary.

If you like kimchi or want to delve deeper into Korean food beyond what’s available at mainstream US grocery stores, kkakdugi is an excellent way to test the waters.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

Bodacious Vietnamese

Much has been written about “hidden gems” that are “tucked away” behind the main thoroughfares, but Bodhi Viet Vegan takes these sayings literally. You could drive right by, having painstakingly timed your visit with their excruciatingly limited hours, and still miss it. Don’t be discouraged by the dusty parking lot and ominously weathered looking store fronts; just through the alley, in a grassy clearing, you’ll find what you’re looking for.

This unassuming food truck in North Austin is run by Buddhist nuns and volunteers, fostering a sense of community, serenity, and altruism that comes only from the heart. With a vibrant Vietnamese menu focused on fresh, local ingredients, Bodhi Viet Vegan delivers an unparalleled experience that genuinely feeds the heart and soul.

You have the whole pan-Asian gambit to chose from, including classics like lo mein and kung pao, but if you leave without getting banh mi, you’re doing it all wrong. That’s not to say it’s an easy decision; you have to make the painstaking choice between spicy lemongrass seitan, braised tofu, meatless balls, or vegan char sui, but don’t agonize over it. Any protein you pick will shine against the backdrop of crisp pickled vegetables, cilantro and on a soft demi-baguette.

Another must-order are the golden fried rolls. Wrapped with care and stuffed with a vibrant mix of fresh shredded vegetables, their exteriors are impossibly flaky and delicate, shattering instantly with each bite. Paired with a sweet peanut sauce, they’re utterly irresistible. You get four pieces per order, which seems like enough to share, but I promise you it’s not. Make sure everyone gets their own or be prepared for a fight.

Soup stans, the homemade dumpling soup far surpasses any paltry wonton you’ve ever had before. Bold words, I know, but just take a look at those beautiful bundles here. Swaddled in toothsome yet not doughy skins, a juicy mixture bursts on your spoon, infused with a fragrant, umami broth. Tender-crisp vegetables swim at the bottom, luxuriating in their savory bath.

For a more substantial soup, the kimchi noodle soup is a clear standout. With a genuine spicy kick that grows with every subsequent slurp, thin, springy ramen noodles are thoughtfully packed separately, ensuring the textures of all components remain at the peak of perfection when you’re ready to dive in. Substantial slabs of tofu soak in all the bold flavors of the lightly fermented cabbage, hot and tangy, soft and supple.

To round out your meal with something sweet, there are plenty of desserts to explore, though the boba tea gets top billing for me. Given the rarity of finding dairy-free bubble tea at large, this is a real treasure. Even more impressive is how the tapioca pearls have just the right amount of chew, an excellent level of sweetness, and a genuinely fresh flavor. Strawberry, taro, or matcha; again, you can’t go wrong. Plan on working your way through all of them to taste the rainbow.

What’s most shocking isn’t just how pitch-perfect all the seasonings are, the way that the proteins hit all the right meaty notes, or the fact that there are zero animal products at play, but how wildly affordable it is. There isn’t a single dish above $9, while portions remain generous. Order normally and you’ll have a feast that will keep you fed for days.

It’s wise to plan in leftovers when you order, because the only disappointment in this operation is their difficult hours that are beyond limited. You only have Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, 11am to 6pm, to get your grub on. I can’t be mad though. For a delicious, affordable, and heartwarming vegan meal, it’s well worth the effort to visit. Don’t be surprised if you leave feeling not just satiated, but a touch lighter in spirit, too.

Bodhi Viet Vegan

2301 West Parmer Lane
Austin TX 78727

Hannah (BitterSweet)19 Comments

Ideas in Phyllosophy

For a ready-made ingredient that’s widely found in mainstream markets, phyllo dough seems to produce a disproportionate amount of angst. Otherwise savvy bakers blanch at the idea of working with the delicate pastry sheets, and while it does take a gentle touch, most fears are largely overblown. It’s not as if they’ll shatter if you merely look at them wrong. The best way to overcome any phyllo anxiety is to dive right in with some exposure therapy, and I have a truly foolproof recipe to start you on the path to recovery. Portokalopita is meant to be broken in the first place.

A Break-Out Success

My original motivation for making portokalopita was to use up scraps of leftover phyllo dough from previous projects. Since I can’t possibly throw away perfectly good food, those random shards sat in the freezer for a good long time before being unearthed. Dried out beyond their ideally pliable state, there was no separating the sheet to make a flaky layered pastry. Instead, portokalopita encourages you to rip or crumble them all up, drop them into a baking pan, and smother them with a yogurt-based custard. Absolutely zero finesse is required, you can use up all your extra phyllo scraps, and there’s no way to mess it up.

Proof Of The Pudding

Thought often described as a cake, the texture is much denser and more moist, like a rich baked pudding. A heavy pour of olive oil creates body and substance, cut by the bright acidity of fresh citrus. My version skips the eggs, of course, and cuts the sugar and oil substantially. It’s traditional to make a separate orange syrup to pour on top, but a light drizzle of vegan honey does the trick for my taste buds. I would never claim my version to be remotely authentic, but I do confidently declare it to be delicious.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments