BitterSweet

Flawlessly functional, endlessly versatile, the contemporary pressure cooker has come a long way from the formidable stove top contraptions of yore. What was once a fearsome unitasker, just as likely to detonate as provide dinner, is now the must-have appliance in any moderately serviceable kitchen. The category is exploding with models- Metaphorically, of course, because safety seals have evolved and improved over the years as well. Performance varies, and what’s particularly important for those with limited countertop real estate to spare, some are far more capable and adaptable than others.

No mere pressure cooker, the Fissler Souspreme Multi Pot has 18 one-touch cooking programs. You’ve got all your staples, from stews, beans, rice, and beyond, but also the ability to slow cook, make cakes, and steam vegetables, too. What really sets this compact dynamo apart from the competition, however, are the settings for fermentation and sous vide.

Who could possibly resist the temptation to whip up a batch of kimchi at home, from scratch, in three hours? Fully fermented with a satisfying funk, I sped through the concept by hastily dumping a bag of shredded cabbage into the pot, along with fiery gochugaru, roughly torn scallions, and salt. No chopping, no brining, no mess. Seal the lid and walk away; the Souspreme Multi Pot can take it from here. If you can stand to wait longer, your patience will be rewarded with a punchier cabbage pickle, but in a pinch, this can save you from bland bi bim bap, no problem.

Yogurt is another basic essential I had wanted to try for ages, but never had the ideal conditions. It takes only milk, of any sort or origin, and a starter culture to bring in the good bacteria. Keeping it all warm- Not hot, not cold- For 12 hours is the real challenge. Not so in the Souspreme Multi Pot. Once again, just set it and forget it. Walk away, go about your daily life, and come back in for a real tart, tangy, dairy-free delight. I let mine run overnight, so woke up to the most heavenly little pots of maple-sweetened matcha yogurt, made with pistachio milk. Where else are you going to find that kind of combination?

What about that headlining sous vide function, you may ask? Well, now that’s a fun twist that really highlights the precision of this fine machine. The temperature can be set to the every degree from 113 to 194 degrees Fahrenheit. With such exacting control, there’s no need for an immersion circulator. Just vacuum seal your food, pop it in, and dial up the timer for anything between 1 and 24 hours. Though typically reserved for prime cuts of meat or boiled eggs with runny yolks, the same concept is completely applicable for the hardy vegetables that could otherwise be at risk of under-cooking, like whole heads of cauliflower or cabbage.

The new wave of plant-based meats, however, adds an interesting new chapter to this story. I had to find out if the “bleeding” burgers could be cooked in this way, finished with the reverse searing technique. That is, cook the patty to a safe temperature, slowly and carefully, and then set it on a blisteringly hot griddle to immediately sear the exterior, leaving the inside utterly rare, pink, yet ready to eat. Finally, I was able to experience that ideal juicy burger patty that only turns up in culinary mythology. Thick, beefy patties, finished with two planes of golden brown crust sealing in an undeniably prime center. THAT is the experience that can win over any carnivore, any day.

Getting back to basics, the true test came down to a classic little French dish known as cassoulet. Traditionally stewed and baked for hours, if not a full day, some say there are no viable shortcuts for this hearty, comforting dish. Well, I say, they’re wrong! Starting from dry beans in cold water, it takes zero labor and only 30 minutes of cooking time under pressure using the Souspreme Multi Pot.

Crisp cubes of bread are toasted separately and added at the table to stay perfectly crunchy, as opposed to the typical morass of mushy breadcrumbs baked right in. Meaty shiitake mushrooms, also added directly to the Souspreme Multi Pot without any need to soak, stand in for less savory entrails and offal in this modern, meatless revival. Tender yet toothsome flageolet beans, plump and creamy, are the real stars of this show. Although you could substitute white navy beans in a pinch, I’d implore you to seek out the genuine article first. Their texture is unrivaled, and the way they drink in the umami broth, rich with wine and heady aromatics, cannot be beat.

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