Category: Food

Pot Roast with the Most

Any brisket could be pot roast, but not all pot roasts are brisket. Confused yet? Once and for all, to set the record straight:

Brisket is a specific cut of meat. Pot roast is a method of preparation.

This is what I tell myself, as if it was that neat and clean, but the truth is the lines are blurry and overlapping, especially depending on who you ask. Brisket can become a pot roast if you toss it into a slow cooker, drowning it in broth and aromatics until it practically shreds itself. You could call that a Jewish pot roast with ease, but a born-and-bred Texan might run you right out of town for that declaration. In these parts, brisket must be smoked low and slow over dry heat, not stewed into oblivion.

Hot Take for a Hot Pot

In the spirit of the holidays, let’s just say that everyone’s right. Let’s put down the pitch forks and pick up the dinner forks, shall we? I made a more conventional take on a vegan holiday brisket last year, which I still consider one of my crowning culinary achievements. This time around, to make something I could classify as a pot roast, I thought it was high time to examine the meat of the matter.

Hen-of-the-Woods in Every Pot

Now, the star of the show isn’t seitan, but mushrooms. Big, feathery clusters of maitake, also called hen-of-the-woods, with their wild, ruffled edges and umami depth that’s downright meaty, maintain a distinctly fibrous yet tender texture, not unlike shredded beef. The protein not the cut for pot roast is a crucial element of what makes the dish, which is why it translates so seamlessly to a plant-based table.

Marvels of Maitake

I used dried maitake here not just for their concentrated flavor or long shelf life, though both are undeniable perks, but because they’re the embodiment of wealth and abundance for me. Every fall, my mom forages them from the wilderness of suburban Connecticut, scouring the base of old oaks with the focus of a seasoned treasure hunter. She dries them carefully, filling mason jars and brown paper bags with feathery clusters that smell like the forest floor after rain. Rehydrated, they spring back to life with even more intensity, deep and woodsy with a hint of smoke. You could substitute roughly a pound of fresh maitake if you don’t have that same incredible fortune.

A Pot Roast by Any Other Name

Somewhere, a food purist is clutching their pearls, muttering about prime cuts and the Maillard reaction. They’ll say it’s not a roast if it doesn’t begin with marbled beef and end in pan drippings. But when I press a spoon against a tender heap of maitake mushrooms that have been stewed into supple submission, bathed in onion-y gravy and served alongside carrots and potatoes that melt in you mouth, I’m not thinking about taxonomy. I’m thinking about warmth, comfort, and how the house smells like the Hanukkahs of my childhood.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments

Controversial Cabbage

Latkes are sacred. I don’t mean that in a biblical sense, but maybe that does apply in this case, too. Latkes are the real meaning of Hanukkah, the nexus of the holiday that connect the miracle of the oil with community, comfort, and abundance. Potatoes themselves take a place of honor at the table, forever reliable for their culinary prowess. That’s why I’ve been steeling myself for this blog post; I know I’m about to upset a lot of people. I made latkes with cabbage instead of potatoes.

Please, put your pitchforks away! Don’t rescind my invitation to the party yet! By no means am I suggesting that cabbage latkes are better than the beloved potato latkes. As a food writer, I know my job is to sell you on my latest creation, convincing you that it’s unbeatable, it’s life-changing, it’s the thing you never knew you needed.

Maybe the last is true, because I’ve never heard anyone take a plate of golden, immaculately crisp potato latkes and say, “You know what these need? 100% more cabbage.”

Honestly, I don’t know where the idea came from, other than the fact that I like cabbage and happened to have it around. I started making cabbage latkes well into late summer, biding my time and practicing my pitch for this day. I’ve come to find that they somewhat resemble Latvian kāpostu kotletes, which Google invariably translates as “cabbage cutlets.” If there could possibly be a more disappointing way to set expectations for this dish, it would be to call them cabbage cutlets. So, cabbage latkes it is.

Golden-crisp on the edges, tender in the center, this more vegetal reimagining of the classic potato pancake looks suspiciously similar to the original inspiration. Shredded green cabbage, kissed with just enough salt to coax out its sweet, earthy essence, forms the backbone of this comforting fritter. Not heavy or greasy, a lacy latticework of browned fringes gives way to a savory, onion-scented interior.

Hopefully this doesn’t turn into a scandal akin to the great Pea Guacamole Controversy that rocked the culinary world a few years back. If it would make you more comfortable, go ahead and call them cabbage fritters. No one is coming to take away your potatoes. I’m only suggesting you might enjoy making space for cabbage, too.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)11 Comments

In Fitfits and Starts

Cold salad might sound like a hard sell as we round the corner to the official beginning of winter, but rest assured that timatim fitfit is no average salad. Eschewing limp greens in favor of a hearty injera base, the tangled ribbons wrap around juicy tomatoes that sing of summer, yet simultaneously manage to hold a timeless tune. For anyone slipping into a stupor after days of heavy, undifferentiated holiday fare, this is just the antidote that will wake your palate back up.

What is Timatim Fitfit?

Not to be confused with the hot, saucy counterpart that is firfir, timatim fitfit is a chilled, uncooked version of the same overarching concept, built around extra or leftover (if there is such a thing) injera, fresh produce, and bold spices. I basically have Red Fox Spices on speed dial at this point, if there was such a thing for repeatedly ordering their 100% teff injera, in both ivory and brown. It’s the only source I’ve found for reliable, high-quality injera on demand, so it’s incredibly fortunate that it also happens to be an inspiring company that’s committed to empowering women, farmers, and sustainable practices, just as much as it is to creating superlative Ethiopian food.

Though often served as part of a larger spread, alongside stews and sautéed greens, timatim fitfit can easily stand as a light midday meal on its own. The combination of acidic dressing and slightly softened injera creates a texture that’s somewhere between panzanella and bread ceviche, if you can imagine such a thing. Those airy pockets in the injera act like tiny capillaries, drawing in the lime and berbere to saturate every bite with flavor.

What gives the dish its unmistakable zing is the interplay between berbere, lime, and tomatoes. Berbere has a warm, fragrant, and nuanced spice, layered with chilies, fenugreek, cardamom, ginger, and a half-dozen other subtle aromatics. Lime cuts through that heat, brightening the whole mixture and preventing the injera from going slack. It’s a short ingredient list on paper, but the combination has complexity that far exceeds such a simple recipe.

Fit to be Mixed

Like all Ethiopian dishes, there’s no single “authentic” recipe. In fact, there are many equally valid variations, often one blending into the definition of the next, making it difficult to pin down.

  • The easiest and most casual, common way to serve it is with injera torn into bits and all mixed together. This method is ideal for everyday eating, for snacking straight from the fridge, or for those glorious moments when leftover injera demands a second life.
  • If you’re looking to impress, roll the injera before slicing and serve the spirals at the base, topped with the seasoned vegetable mixture. The presentation transforms it from rustic to refined with almost no extra effort.

  • Remove the “fitfit,” and “timatim” is just the vegetables; great as a side or garnish, but not nearly as compelling as the full complement, if you ask me.

The one non-negotiable element is time. Let the mixture rest, because even ten minutes makes a world of difference. The spices need time to bloom and mingle, as the tomatoes release their juices and the seasoning permeates the injera.

Enjoying Injera

Is there any ingredient quite so versatile as injera, which can act as the vessel, entree, and serving utensil for the same dish? Timatim fitfit can demonstrate the full range of this inimitable Ethiopian flatbread without even trying. When you’re flush from a fresh restock, you can use a flat sheet of injera as the plate, and still another torn into pieces to scoop up your salad in hearty handfuls.

When served as part of a communal platter, timatim fitfit becomes the essential bright note that ties the whole meal together. It cuts through buttery niter kibbeh, balances earthy lentils, and offers a cooling reprieve between fiery mouthfuls of misir wat or shiro. It’s the palate cleanser, or perhaps an edible intermission.

For all its simplicity, timatim fitfit has a way of recalibrating your senses. It proves that winter meals can still be fresh and vibrant, that comfort food doesn’t need to be decadent, and that even leftover injera can become something transcendent with a little lime and spice.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Bloody Good Soup

One could argue, without any difficulty, that a classically mixed Bloody Mary is a soup. Sure, the notable addition of vodka may give pause, but who said that soups were defined by their sobriety? Soup is merely defined as a “liquid food,” which also means that perhaps smoothies and milkshakes could be included in the category. A Bloody Mary, though, already has the basic vegetal building blocks of a cozy tomato soup, lightened and lengthened with chilled spirits, like a tipsy gazpacho served in a glass. Honestly, that sounds pretty good, too.

But I digress. We’re talking about the Bloody Mary here; robust and highly seasoned, often spiked with Worcestershire, Tabasco, and plenty of black pepper, at least. It wouldn’t take much at all to make that into a meal. Hell, you could just heat up the foundational mix and call it a day, but we can do better. Taking a page from classic tomato soup, it’s not a radical departure from tradition, which is a large part of its charm. Just layer in some caramelized onions, cook up the celery instead of saving it for a garnish, and add a bit more vegan bacon for that all-important protein, and now it’s looking like a proper bowl of soup.

We can’t leave garnishes out of the picture, though. They’re almost more essential to the Bloody Mary than the vodka itself. On that note, I chose to add my vodka towards the end, rather than let it cook out, because it should live up to the name, right? You could add it earlier on in the cooking process, along with the vegetable stock, to make this more family friendly, if you absolutely had to.

Happy hour and dinnertime often overlap, so why not cut to the chase and make both count? If it’s too hard to get past the idea of Bloody Mary soup being different from the original cocktail, then just think of it like a surprisingly relaxing, mildly intoxicating tomato soup, and you won’t be disappointed.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)10 Comments

Einkorn to be Wild

Baking with einkorn flour for the first time was a defining moment for me. Part of a larger cookbook photography project, the recipe didn’t stand out as anything particularly noteworthy from the text. Just another simple sandwich bread, differentiated only by this unusual ingredient. Somehow, from that otherwise unremarkable base rose the most glorious golden loaf. Taking on the air of rich, pillowy brioche, without a single egg or pat of butter in sight, I had clearly underestimated this enigmatic ancient grain.

That first loaf lit the spark, but it wasn’t until I began working with Grand Teton Ancient Grains that the flame truly caught. Their einkorn flour, freshly milled and impossibly fragrant, felt alive in a way no bagged flour ever had before. It brought a new depth to every bake, proof that sourcing matters just as much as technique. Going one step further, the availability of whole einkorn berries opened the door to all endless cooking possibilities, sparking my curiosity about this heirloom superfood anew.

What Is Einkorn?

Modern wheat is a newborn baby compared to einkorn. The true, original wheat, einkorn (Triticum monococcum) was first domesticated somewhere between 10,000 – 12,000 years ago in the Fertile Crescent, and it hasn’t changed much since. It’s never been hybridized, never subjected to the industrial tinkering that transformed conventional wheat into the high-yield, high-gluten machine it is today.

The word itself means “single grain,” named for the fact that each spikelet of the plant contains only one grain, rather than the multiple grains found in modern wheat. Small, hardy, and often overlooked, einkorn has persisted through millennia not because of its efficiency, but because of its hardiness, depth of flavor, digestibility, and nutrient-rich profile.

How Is Einkorn Different From Modern Wheat?

Einkorn stands apart in more ways than one. It contains a simpler gluten structure, with fewer chromosomes; 14, compared to modern wheat’s 42. That might sound like a trivia fact better suited for scientists and serious food nerds, but it has real-life implications for how einkorn behaves and how our bodies respond to it.

  • Gluten content: Einkorn does contain gluten, so it’s not safe for those with celiac disease. However, many individuals with non-celiac gluten sensitivities report fewer digestive issues with einkorn than with modern wheat.
  • Absorption: Einkorn has more protein than modern wheat, but less of the type of gluten that gives bread that stretchy, elastic structure. That means softer, more delicate textures in baked goods, perfect for delicate cakes and pastries, but also a steeper learning curve if you’re trying to get a lofty sourdough loaf.
  • Nutrient profile: Einkorn is rich in lutein, zinc, iron, thiamin (B1), and beta-carotene, which is what gives the grain and the resulting flour its beautiful flaxen hue. It’s also notably high in tocotrienols, a form of vitamin E with antioxidant properties. The flour is never bleached or bromated, and when sourced from Grand Teton Ancient Grains, it’s always 100% organic and glyphosate-free.

What Does Einkorn Taste Like?

Subtle yet distinct, einkorn has a sweet, malty, cereal flavor with undertones of honey and toasted almonds. It brings a buttery richness to anything it touches, without ever overwhelming the other ingredients in a dish.

I’ve described it before as the “vanilla bean” of whole grains, not because it tastes like vanilla, but because once you’ve experienced it, it’s hard to bake without it, back to the bland neutrality of the norm. Einkorn makes pancakes fluffier, cookies softer, and waffles more voluptuous. Even a basic biscuit takes on a complexity that feels almost undeserved for something so common.

How Is Einkorn Used?

Einkorn is still considered a specialty ingredient, rarely in mainstream markets but available in abundance online. Flour is only the start.

  • Whole Einkorn berries: The intact grain, with its tough outer husk removed, is ideal for cooking like brown rice. Use it in soups, salads, grain bowls, stuffing, risotto, hot porridge, and so much more. Whole berries can also be freshly milled at home for the most flavorful flour possible.
  • Einkorn flour: Available in both whole grain and all-purpose versions. The whole grain flour includes the bran and germ for maximum nutrition and a rich, nutty taste, while the all-purpose version is sifted for a lighter, more delicate texture. Both are excellent for everything from bread and cookies to pancakes and pasta.
  • Rolled einkorn (flakes): Similar to rolled oats, these cook quickly and are perfect for warm cereals, homemade granola, or baked goods.
  • Puffed einkorn: Airy, crunchy, and lightly toasted, puffed einkorn is often used in cereals, snack bars, or just as a crispy topping for yogurt or smoothie bowls.
  • Sprouted einkorn: Soaking and sprouting the whole berries unlocks an entirely different experience. Sprouted einkorn is easier to digest, with increased bioavailability of nutrients and a slightly sweet, earthy flavor. Use sprouts in salads, sandwiches, or smoothies, or dry and grind them into sprouted flour for even more nutrient-dense baking.
  • Einkorn bran: When the grain is milled and sifted, the outer bran layer is sometimes sold separately. It’s high in fiber and adds a hearty texture and nutrition boost to muffins, breads, and cereals.

Baking with Einkorn Flour: A Different Kind of Dough

All-purpose einkorn can generally be used as a plug-and-play substitute for conventional white all-purpose flour in many baked goods, namely quick breads, muffins, pancakes, waffles, cookies, biscuits, and more. To get the best results when making more demanding recipes like yeast breads and bagels, pastas, and crackers, there are a few quirks to keep in mind:

  1. Hydration: Einkorn flour absorbs less water than modern wheat flour. You may need to reduce the liquid by 25% of the original recipe. It also absorbs liquid more slowly, which is why it may seem stickier than usual at first, before resting. Do not try to compensate by adding more flour instead, as this will just create a dense, disappointing crumb.
  2. Mixing time: No-knead bread is often best suited for einkorn flour. If making a conventional loaf, knead much less than you typically would, and skip the stand mixer. Just 5 minutes of kneading by hand is enough to develop the gluten.
  3. Rising: Because einkorn has a much weaker gluten structure than modern wheat, it’s best to under-proof the dough, allowing it to rise only about 50%. If you let it fully double in size, the dough will likely collapse in the oven, unable to support the gas bubbles during baking.

If you’re just starting out, try replacing a quarter to half of the flour in a trusted recipe with einkorn, and see how it behaves. Then, work your way up as you get more comfortable.

Cooking Whole Einkorn Berries

Whole einkorn berries are plump, chewy, and deeply satisfying in any dish. They cook more quickly than hard wheat berries, even without soaking in advance.

  • Stove Top: Combine 1 cup einkorn berries with 3 cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 25 – 30 minutes, until tender but still al dente. Drain off any excess water
  • Pressure Cooker: Use 1 cup einkorn berries with 2 1/2 cups water. Seal and cook soaked berries on high pressure for 10 minutes. Let the pressure release naturally, and drain any remaining water.

Try it in a warm grain bowl with roasted root vegetables and tahini sauce, or toss it into soups in place of barley or pasta for an earthy, warming boost.

To save cooked einkorn berries for later, cool completely before transferring to an airtight container, which will keep in the fridge for up to 1 week, or in the freezer for up to 6 months. Don’t forget to label it clearly with the contents and date, especially for long term storage!

Ancient Nutrition, Modern Fuel

Everyone’s so crazed about protein these days, but there’s no need to resort to tasteless processed foods; einkorn has it covered. For every 100 grams of whole grain flour, einkorn contains about 14 – 18 grams of protein, which is noticeably higher than standard modern wheat. It also provides around 9 grams of fiber, and roughly 70 grams of complex carbohydrates, making it both filling and beneficial for stabilizing blood sugar. The fat content is modest, about 2.5 grams, from naturally occurring unsaturated fats in the germ.

Where it really shines, though, is in its micronutrient profile. Einkorn offers significantly more iron, zinc, magnesium, and vitamin B6 than conventional wheat, along with exceptionally high levels of lutein (up to 200% more than modern varieties) and beta-carotene, lending it that unmistakable golden color. For an instant upgrade to your whole grain pantry, einkorn delivers on all fronts.

Thankful for Einkorn: A Stuffing Worth Celebrating

When the holiday table calls for comfort, nostalgia, and something a little extra special, whole einkorn berries rise to the occasion. Used in place of the usual wild rice, einkorn makes a surprisingly hearty and flavorful base for stuffing, or dressing, depending on your preferred parlance. Their naturally nutty flavor and chewy texture stand up beautifully to savory herbs, caramelized onions, mushrooms, and toasted pecans, creating a side dish that feels both familiar and entirely new.

When the Thanksgiving table is crowned with a dish of einkorn stuffing, everything else seems to fall into place. The whole berries, plump and golden, glisten between flecks of sage, sweet-tart pomegranate arils, and tender bites of celery and carrot. Each spoonful offers a gentle chew, a pleasant resistance that gives way to buttery richness and herbaceous depth. Far from a bland carbohydrate filler, einkorn takes center stage, earthy, warming, and satisfying in the most elemental way.

The Past, Present, and Future of Einkorn

Einkorn is wheat in its truest form, as it was always meant to be. Before industrialization stripped it down to a hollow shell of its previous glory, einkorn was the reason that humans fell in love with wheat in the first place. It’s a story that’s been thousands of years in the making, and can continue in your kitchen today. Don’t miss the opportunity to nurture this heirloom staple in the same way it can sustain you. I’ll be hard to pick up that vapid conventional all-purpose flour once you’ve tasted the difference.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)13 Comments

Love Your Leftovers

Holiday meals are all about abundance, which means one thing: plenty of leftovers. If you ask me, that’s even better than the feast itself. The hard work is already done, and what’s left is a treasure trove of deeper, richer flavors that have had time to meld and develop. With just a bit of creativity, you can transform those original dishes into entirely new taste sensations.

Humble stuffing turns into grab-and-go savory breakfast muffins, filled with gooey vegan cheese. Spice up the standard green bean casserole into a quick curry, perfect for a weeknight dinner. Holiday roasts are easily slapped into sandwiches, but why not wrap them up into light, fresh spring rolls instead, in bold contrast to a heavier meal?

There’s no need to tempt flavor fatigue by eating the same meal for days on end; you’ll love your leftovers with a few simple tweaks.

I’m sharing all of these recipes, from the original dishes to their secondary transformations, in the latest Issue of Vegan Journal. You can view the entire issue online for free, but please consider subscribing to have it delivered straight to your door!

Hannah (BitterSweet)10 Comments