Bloody Good Soup

One could argue, without any difficulty, that a classically mixed Bloody Mary is a soup. Sure, the notable addition of vodka may give pause, but who said that soups were defined by their sobriety? Soup is merely defined as a “liquid food,” which also means that perhaps smoothies and milkshakes could be included in the category. A Bloody Mary, though, already has the basic vegetal building blocks of a cozy tomato soup, lightened and lengthened with chilled spirits, like a tipsy gazpacho served in a glass. Honestly, that sounds pretty good, too.

But I digress. We’re talking about the Bloody Mary here; robust and highly seasoned, often spiked with Worcestershire, Tabasco, and plenty of black pepper, at least. It wouldn’t take much at all to make that into a meal. Hell, you could just heat up the foundational mix and call it a day, but we can do better. Taking a page from classic tomato soup, it’s not a radical departure from tradition, which is a large part of its charm. Just layer in some caramelized onions, cook up the celery instead of saving it for a garnish, and add a bit more vegan bacon for that all-important protein, and now it’s looking like a proper bowl of soup.

We can’t leave garnishes out of the picture, though. They’re almost more essential to the Bloody Mary than the vodka itself. On that note, I chose to add my vodka towards the end, rather than let it cook out, because it should live up to the name, right? You could add it earlier on in the cooking process, along with the vegetable stock, to make this more family friendly, if you absolutely had to.

Happy hour and dinnertime often overlap, so why not cut to the chase and make both count? If it’s too hard to get past the idea of Bloody Mary soup being different from the original cocktail, then just think of it like a surprisingly relaxing, mildly intoxicating tomato soup, and you won’t be disappointed.

Continue reading “Bloody Good Soup”

Einkorn to be Wild

Baking with einkorn flour for the first time was a defining moment for me. Part of a larger cookbook photography project, the recipe didn’t stand out as anything particularly noteworthy from the text. Just another simple sandwich bread, differentiated only by this unusual ingredient. Somehow, from that otherwise unremarkable base rose the most glorious golden loaf. Taking on the air of rich, pillowy brioche, without a single egg or pat of butter in sight, I had clearly underestimated this enigmatic ancient grain.

That first loaf lit the spark, but it wasn’t until I began working with Grand Teton Ancient Grains that the flame truly caught. Their einkorn flour, freshly milled and impossibly fragrant, felt alive in a way no bagged flour ever had before. It brought a new depth to every bake, proof that sourcing matters just as much as technique. Going one step further, the availability of whole einkorn berries opened the door to all endless cooking possibilities, sparking my curiosity about this heirloom superfood anew.

What Is Einkorn?

Modern wheat is a newborn baby compared to einkorn. The true, original wheat, einkorn (Triticum monococcum) was first domesticated somewhere between 10,000 – 12,000 years ago in the Fertile Crescent, and it hasn’t changed much since. It’s never been hybridized, never subjected to the industrial tinkering that transformed conventional wheat into the high-yield, high-gluten machine it is today.

The word itself means “single grain,” named for the fact that each spikelet of the plant contains only one grain, rather than the multiple grains found in modern wheat. Small, hardy, and often overlooked, einkorn has persisted through millennia not because of its efficiency, but because of its hardiness, depth of flavor, digestibility, and nutrient-rich profile.

How Is Einkorn Different From Modern Wheat?

Einkorn stands apart in more ways than one. It contains a simpler gluten structure, with fewer chromosomes; 14, compared to modern wheat’s 42. That might sound like a trivia fact better suited for scientists and serious food nerds, but it has real-life implications for how einkorn behaves and how our bodies respond to it.

  • Gluten content: Einkorn does contain gluten, so it’s not safe for those with celiac disease. However, many individuals with non-celiac gluten sensitivities report fewer digestive issues with einkorn than with modern wheat.
  • Absorption: Einkorn has more protein than modern wheat, but less of the type of gluten that gives bread that stretchy, elastic structure. That means softer, more delicate textures in baked goods, perfect for delicate cakes and pastries, but also a steeper learning curve if you’re trying to get a lofty sourdough loaf.
  • Nutrient profile: Einkorn is rich in lutein, zinc, iron, thiamin (B1), and beta-carotene, which is what gives the grain and the resulting flour its beautiful flaxen hue. It’s also notably high in tocotrienols, a form of vitamin E with antioxidant properties. The flour is never bleached or bromated, and when sourced from Grand Teton Ancient Grains, it’s always 100% organic and glyphosate-free.

What Does Einkorn Taste Like?

Subtle yet distinct, einkorn has a sweet, malty, cereal flavor with undertones of honey and toasted almonds. It brings a buttery richness to anything it touches, without ever overwhelming the other ingredients in a dish.

I’ve described it before as the “vanilla bean” of whole grains, not because it tastes like vanilla, but because once you’ve experienced it, it’s hard to bake without it, back to the bland neutrality of the norm. Einkorn makes pancakes fluffier, cookies softer, and waffles more voluptuous. Even a basic biscuit takes on a complexity that feels almost undeserved for something so common.

How Is Einkorn Used?

Einkorn is still considered a specialty ingredient, rarely in mainstream markets but available in abundance online. Flour is only the start.

  • Whole Einkorn berries: The intact grain, with its tough outer husk removed, is ideal for cooking like brown rice. Use it in soups, salads, grain bowls, stuffing, risotto, hot porridge, and so much more. Whole berries can also be freshly milled at home for the most flavorful flour possible.
  • Einkorn flour: Available in both whole grain and all-purpose versions. The whole grain flour includes the bran and germ for maximum nutrition and a rich, nutty taste, while the all-purpose version is sifted for a lighter, more delicate texture. Both are excellent for everything from bread and cookies to pancakes and pasta.
  • Rolled einkorn (flakes): Similar to rolled oats, these cook quickly and are perfect for warm cereals, homemade granola, or baked goods.
  • Puffed einkorn: Airy, crunchy, and lightly toasted, puffed einkorn is often used in cereals, snack bars, or just as a crispy topping for yogurt or smoothie bowls.
  • Sprouted einkorn: Soaking and sprouting the whole berries unlocks an entirely different experience. Sprouted einkorn is easier to digest, with increased bioavailability of nutrients and a slightly sweet, earthy flavor. Use sprouts in salads, sandwiches, or smoothies, or dry and grind them into sprouted flour for even more nutrient-dense baking.
  • Einkorn bran: When the grain is milled and sifted, the outer bran layer is sometimes sold separately. It’s high in fiber and adds a hearty texture and nutrition boost to muffins, breads, and cereals.

Baking with Einkorn Flour: A Different Kind of Dough

All-purpose einkorn can generally be used as a plug-and-play substitute for conventional white all-purpose flour in many baked goods, namely quick breads, muffins, pancakes, waffles, cookies, biscuits, and more. To get the best results when making more demanding recipes like yeast breads and bagels, pastas, and crackers, there are a few quirks to keep in mind:

  1. Hydration: Einkorn flour absorbs less water than modern wheat flour. You may need to reduce the liquid by 25% of the original recipe. It also absorbs liquid more slowly, which is why it may seem stickier than usual at first, before resting. Do not try to compensate by adding more flour instead, as this will just create a dense, disappointing crumb.
  2. Mixing time: No-knead bread is often best suited for einkorn flour. If making a conventional loaf, knead much less than you typically would, and skip the stand mixer. Just 5 minutes of kneading by hand is enough to develop the gluten.
  3. Rising: Because einkorn has a much weaker gluten structure than modern wheat, it’s best to under-proof the dough, allowing it to rise only about 50%. If you let it fully double in size, the dough will likely collapse in the oven, unable to support the gas bubbles during baking.

If you’re just starting out, try replacing a quarter to half of the flour in a trusted recipe with einkorn, and see how it behaves. Then, work your way up as you get more comfortable.

Cooking Whole Einkorn Berries

Whole einkorn berries are plump, chewy, and deeply satisfying in any dish. They cook more quickly than hard wheat berries, even without soaking in advance.

  • Stove Top: Combine 1 cup einkorn berries with 3 cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 25 – 30 minutes, until tender but still al dente. Drain off any excess water
  • Pressure Cooker: Use 1 cup einkorn berries with 2 1/2 cups water. Seal and cook soaked berries on high pressure for 10 minutes. Let the pressure release naturally, and drain any remaining water.

Try it in a warm grain bowl with roasted root vegetables and tahini sauce, or toss it into soups in place of barley or pasta for an earthy, warming boost.

To save cooked einkorn berries for later, cool completely before transferring to an airtight container, which will keep in the fridge for up to 1 week, or in the freezer for up to 6 months. Don’t forget to label it clearly with the contents and date, especially for long term storage!

Ancient Nutrition, Modern Fuel

Everyone’s so crazed about protein these days, but there’s no need to resort to tasteless processed foods; einkorn has it covered. For every 100 grams of whole grain flour, einkorn contains about 14 – 18 grams of protein, which is noticeably higher than standard modern wheat. It also provides around 9 grams of fiber, and roughly 70 grams of complex carbohydrates, making it both filling and beneficial for stabilizing blood sugar. The fat content is modest, about 2.5 grams, from naturally occurring unsaturated fats in the germ.

Where it really shines, though, is in its micronutrient profile. Einkorn offers significantly more iron, zinc, magnesium, and vitamin B6 than conventional wheat, along with exceptionally high levels of lutein (up to 200% more than modern varieties) and beta-carotene, lending it that unmistakable golden color. For an instant upgrade to your whole grain pantry, einkorn delivers on all fronts.

Thankful for Einkorn: A Stuffing Worth Celebrating

When the holiday table calls for comfort, nostalgia, and something a little extra special, whole einkorn berries rise to the occasion. Used in place of the usual wild rice, einkorn makes a surprisingly hearty and flavorful base for stuffing, or dressing, depending on your preferred parlance. Their naturally nutty flavor and chewy texture stand up beautifully to savory herbs, caramelized onions, mushrooms, and toasted pecans, creating a side dish that feels both familiar and entirely new.

When the Thanksgiving table is crowned with a dish of einkorn stuffing, everything else seems to fall into place. The whole berries, plump and golden, glisten between flecks of sage, sweet-tart pomegranate arils, and tender bites of celery and carrot. Each spoonful offers a gentle chew, a pleasant resistance that gives way to buttery richness and herbaceous depth. Far from a bland carbohydrate filler, einkorn takes center stage, earthy, warming, and satisfying in the most elemental way.

The Past, Present, and Future of Einkorn

Einkorn is wheat in its truest form, as it was always meant to be. Before industrialization stripped it down to a hollow shell of its previous glory, einkorn was the reason that humans fell in love with wheat in the first place. It’s a story that’s been thousands of years in the making, and can continue in your kitchen today. Don’t miss the opportunity to nurture this heirloom staple in the same way it can sustain you. I’ll be hard to pick up that vapid conventional all-purpose flour once you’ve tasted the difference.

Continue reading “Einkorn to be Wild”

Love Your Leftovers

Holiday meals are all about abundance, which means one thing: plenty of leftovers. If you ask me, that’s even better than the feast itself. The hard work is already done, and what’s left is a treasure trove of deeper, richer flavors that have had time to meld and develop. With just a bit of creativity, you can transform those original dishes into entirely new taste sensations.

Humble stuffing turns into grab-and-go savory breakfast muffins, filled with gooey vegan cheese. Spice up the standard green bean casserole into a quick curry, perfect for a weeknight dinner. Holiday roasts are easily slapped into sandwiches, but why not wrap them up into light, fresh spring rolls instead, in bold contrast to a heavier meal?

There’s no need to tempt flavor fatigue by eating the same meal for days on end; you’ll love your leftovers with a few simple tweaks.

I’m sharing all of these recipes, from the original dishes to their secondary transformations, in the latest Issue of Vegan Journal. You can view the entire issue online for free, but please consider subscribing to have it delivered straight to your door!

The Stuff of Dreams

What is it about Thanksgiving that invokes the sudden urge to stuff various foods into others? I don’t mean the way we stuff our faces to excess, but the stuffing of bread and wild rice into turkey; ducks and hens into turkey; pretty much anything conceivably edible into turkey. It’s as if the poor bird were less an entree and more a suitcase, over-packed with the savory odds and ends we only think of once a year and otherwise never use. Furtively shoved inside as if flavor might be confiscated at customs, no one seems to question the tradition, even if it makes little logical sense.

I’m not immune to this impulse, irrational as it may be. You’d understand and (hopefully) forgive me if you saw what I was up against, though. Spotting the most adorable dumpling squash at the store, perfectly plump and rotund, I was instantly smitten. Still swooning at the plunder in my shopping cart, I was already planning how best to eviscerate my darlings and replace their guts with green beans. Brutal, perhaps, but far better than wrangling giblets out of de-feathered fowl, don’t you think?

Like a dog’s instinct to howl at the moon, satisfying yet meaningless, I’m powerless to rein in this primal impulse. Dumpling squash are undeniably the best edible vessels nature can devise, but any similar small squash will do, like delicata or honeynut squash. Using green bean casserole as the filling has the added, unintentional benefit of turning two sides into one entree, so if you’re a veggie-lover like me that would rather leave giant hunks of dry, bland protein off the plate, this is the best of all worlds.

Encased in the plush, subtly sweet flesh of roasted winter squash, tender-crisp green beans cozy up to a mushroom-laced mélange that no ceramic baking dish can contain. A halo of golden fried onions gives it that unmistakable nostalgic flavor that no Thanksgiving table is complete without.

Maybe its the yawning empty cavity of a hollow gourd that demands to be filled. Maybe it’s our subconscious way of holding on to fleeting warmth, of cramming in joy wherever we can find it, of stacking up all the things we love in a pile so high that it’s impossible to let any sadness in. If there was ever a time to get stuffed, this is it. If we’re lucky, we won’t just fill our plates; we’ll fill our hearts, too.

Continue reading “The Stuff of Dreams”

Purple People Pleaser

Ube is here to stay.

Casting Filipino kitchens in a vibrant violet hue for millennia, these tubers have taken root in the hearts, minds, and stomachs of those worldwide. Who wouldn’t immediately be captivated by such a striking shade? Few, if any, earthly ingredients could ever achieve that brilliance. One glance and the brain starts spinning like a top, searching for context clues to make sense of what might be on our plates but no, there’s nothing quite like ube.

Adjacent to Hannah yams in terms of texture and flavor, most people seek to accentuate their natural sweetness in desserts. Subtly nutty, accented by hints of floral vanilla, it’s an excellent candidate for the last course. I, however, am not most people, and I think ube should be the entree, too.

Noodles Everyday, In All The Ways

Back when I was obsessed with my pasta maker, if I could extrude it in a dough, no flavor combination was off the table. That era was marked by furious flour storms and spaghetti stands drying on every available surface. Beet linguine, spinach ravioli, charcoal spaghetti; I noodled through every color of the rainbow and back again. One stand-out experiment was ube fettuccine, impossibly indigo, fit for royalty.

Yes, the pasta portion of the recipe is written in grams; it’s worth the price of a kitchen scale, if you don’t already have one. Pasta making isn’t hard, especially with a machine doing the heavy lifting, but it is exacting.

Semi-Homemade Hack

To that end, you can use store-bought dried pasta and cook it in ube-tinted waters for a quicker, and easier fix, but one with much less impact. Expect something more along the lines of pastel lavender pasta, and precious little added flavor to speak of.

To honor its more tropical origin, no average Alfredo sauce would do. Coconut replaces cream in a lush, velvety, unapologetically rich base, coaxed back into savory territory with umami nutritional yeast, garlic, and a whisper of lemon juice. Simple in composition but wildly nuanced in flavor, it’s a sauce that sings in harmony with the sweet, nutty depth of the ube without competing, only amplifying.

Why relegate something so naturally brilliant to just pastries and lattes? Ube has range, and clear staying power. It brings a gentle sweetness with a grounding earthiness that makes it just as welcome at the start of a meal as the finish.

Continue reading “Purple People Pleaser”