Me Oh, My Oh, Mayocoba

How can one consider beans as “food for the poor” when they’re rich in so many ways? Rich in history, rich in flavor, rich in nutrition; the only thing that cheapens them is this pervasive stigma. The only reason why Mayocoba beans haven’t blown up as the next big food trend is there’s no marketing budget for beans. Just as well, I say, because they’re more than just a flash in the pan, but an enduring staple that will long outlive TikTok and likely social media itself. They’ve already survived well over 4,000 years of tumultuous climates, both physical and political, and they’re just getting started.

A Brief History of an Ancient Bean

Indigenous to Latin America, Mayocoba beans feature prominently in Mexican and Peruvian culture. Depending on who you ask, they may also go by the names of canary (Canario) beans, yellow beans, or Peruvian (Peruano or Frijol de Peru) beans. Though strongly linked to Peruvian foodways as a reliable source of sustenance for inhabitants of the Andes, where agriculture struggles to thrive and crop yields are relatively poor, the word “Mayocoba” comes from small town in Mexico. The two countries seem to share the legumes, and their heritage, abundantly.

Patently Incorrect

Though this is a bean untroubled by passing fads, it’s not immune to controversy. In 2005, one Larry Proctor of Pod-ners L.L.C. attempted to patent the time-honored Mayocoba, claiming that the bean he called “Enola,” after his wife’s middle name, was a wholly unique specimen. Unsurprisingly and rightly so, this sparked outrage in both the agricultural and cultural communities. Critics argued that the bean, like many other heirloom crops, had long been part of indigenous and local food systems for millennia, and should never be subjected to patenting by any one entity. The idea that a traditional, widely cultivated crop could be claimed by a corporation highlighted an ongoing issue with intellectual property laws and their impact on indigenous farming communities. Fortunately, the patent application was eventually withdrawn, but the controversy raised important questions about who truly owns our food history and who gets to profit from it.

Appearance and Tasting Notes

Ranging from pale yellow to off-white, they’re not nearly as vibrant as the bird of their namesake, but shine on the plate all the same. That flaxen hue recedes further when cooked, resulting in a pot of mostly beige beans. Don’t judge a bean by its color though; these unassuming kernels are remarkably buttery and almost sweet, though fairly mild to absorb any seasonings you can throw at them. Their texture is what really makes them special: thin-skinned yet still robust enough to hold their own, Mayocoba beans are soft and creamy all the way through. You won’t get a hint of grit or graininess whether they’re kept whole or pureed.

Nutritional Prowess

Big shocker here: Mayocoba beans are healthy! Yes, just like every other legume, they’re an excellent source of complete plant protein, to the tune of 7 – 8 grams per 1/2 cup (cooked) serving. They have a similarly impressive amount of fiber, but more noteworthy is they have fewer of the gas-causing sugars that make beans difficult for some people to digest. You’ll find no such discomfort with these trusty beans. Iron, potassium, magnesium, zinc, and folate are key nutrients found in abundance, essential as part of a balanced diet.

How To Cook Mayocoba Beans

I’ve heard tales of canned Mayocoba beans but have never seen them in real life. Dried is definitely the way to go, since they’re most affordable and keep almost indefinitely. As with all beans, it’s best to check for stones or other less tasty inclusions before giving them a good rinse. From there, you have many different methods to make a hill of means.

• Pressure Cooker: Add at least 3 times as much water to beans, seal the lid, and cook on high pressure for about 25 minutes, then let the pressure release naturally.
• Stove Top: Cover the beans with at least 2 inches of water in a large pot and simmer for 1 1/2 – 2 hours, occasionally checking the water level and adding more as needed.
• Slow Cooker: Use 4 – 6 times as much water as beans. Cook on low for 6 – 8 hours or high for 3 – 4 hours, adding more liquid if needed, until tender.

Culinary Creations

Mayocoba beans are now my automatic swap-in whenever I see a recipe for pinto beans. Maybe this is unfair to the hardworking pinto, but they can’t match the velvety texture of a golden canary bean. Others suggest that they’re excellent substitutes for cannellini and great northern beans. If you want more specific ideas for featuring the Mayocoba in all its glory, consider the following traditional dishes:

• Refried beans, which needn’t even be fried once, really highlight the Mayocoba’s velvety texture. Similarly, consider trying Mayocoba hummus for a next-level bean dip.
• Tacu-tacu, a patty made from seasoned mashed beans and rice that’s pan-fried until crispy, is an excellent way to use leftovers.
• Sopa de Frijoles, aka bean soup, will never let you down. There are no hard and fast rules here; make yours a stew or chili, brothy or blended, basic or bounteous. These beans can do it all.
• Ceviche de Frijoles, replacing fish with beans, makes a breezy salsa sound like a luxury. You could even serve it on a bed of greens and call it a salad, be it an entree or a side.

From Farm to Fortune

I’d like to propose that beans become the new status symbol. Do you cook your beans from dried? Do you seek out new and exciting beans, beyond the realm of the pinto, the kidney, and the black bean? It’s the inclusive club that everyone should join, with an entree fee that even bean counters can justify. Grab a bag of Mayocoba beans and you’re already in. Get cooking and share the wealth!