So Long, and Thanks for All the Dishes

It’s closing time, as we turn out the lights on 2024 and prepare for the next shift, starting the cycle anew. Many restaurants won’t be joining us though, doors remaining locked indefinitely, their once bustling dining rooms left cold, filled only with silence. Running a food business, or a small business of any sort, is a difficult, if not altogether punishing proposition, where the daily to-do list is a never-ending lineup of crises. The fact that any hold on should be celebrated, though today, I’d like to take a minute to mourn the losses of the vegan community that have saddened Austinites of all stripes.

Somehow, 2024 seemed to take a lesser toll on the industry, with fewer establishments within our plant-based circle calling it quits in comparison to recent years. That doesn’t make these losses any less heartbreaking, nor their absence any less dispiriting. It brings me no pleasure to recount the once vibrant restaurants that are no longer with us.

Vegan Restaurant and Cafe Closures in Austin, 2024

Sunny’s Backyard is still out there serving cocktails from the bar, but the eponymous food truck has departed from its reserved space. It was a crushing blow to receive as not only the first closure of the year, but one of my top three favorite vegan spots in all of Austin. Yes, there’s a new rotating cast of characters subbing to fill the void, but none of the replacement trucks are vegan. If you’re lucky, you’ll find a plant-based option or two, which is a paltry offering compared to the previous list of meatless wings, monstrous burgers, soft pretzels with dairy-free queso, and fully loaded waffle fries. There’s nothing else quite like it that can replace the food, live music, dog-friendly patio, and chill vibes.

Capital City Bakery slipped away slowly, imperceptibly, until suddenly, it was gone, leaving only questions in its wake. Reduced hours turned into opening by appointment only, then not opening at all. The website remains as a ghost of its former self with purchasing options turned off. Cupcakes and kolaches still tease on the screen, almost close enough to taste, but entirely out of reach. This closure may have actually happened sometime in 2023 based on rumors of unfulfilled orders, so it’s time to finally call it: Cap City is baking no more.

Big Nonna’s grandmotherly love wasn’t enough to keep the pizza oven burning, submitting to increasing financial pressures that ultimately pushed them out of their brick and mortar space. A withering blow to north Austin where vegan options are more sparse, there’s no replacing their house-made dairy-free cheeses and spicy beeteroni, to say nothing of the impeccable thin, crispy, NY-style crusts each masterpiece was built on. At least Li’l Nonna’s lives on, still carrying the torch through a more limited menu from their compact trailer at Tweedy’s Bar… For now.

The Beer Plant tapped out in the final days of 2024. It had been a tumultuous year of chef shuffles and menu overhauls that the upscale eatery never recovered from. Watching its slow decline was painful, though the finality of its closure is still harder to accept. Where else in Austin could you go for an all-vegan fancy date night, an upscale meal to impress parents, or a celebratory spot for birthdays and beyond? Brunch is where they really excelled, in my opinion, pulling out all the stops to make incredible eggless shakshuka, decadent French toast, hearty meatless chicken and waffles, and so much more. I’ll relish the memories from my very first visit when they had just opened, when I was just a visitor to this fair city. I feel lucky to have seen their journey through, from start to finish, no matter how sad the ending.

Looking Ahead to 2025

As we look toward the horizon of 2025, there’s a glimmer of hope that flickers like candlelight in the darkness. The challenges we’ve faced have forged a resilient community, one that can adapt and innovate in the face of adversity. New ventures are on the verge of emerging, driven by passionate individuals eager to fill the void. Let’s remember the lessons learned from our losses, honoring those who have shaped our culinary landscape, while also embracing the possibilities ahead. Together, we can rebuild, reimagine, and reinvigorate the vibrant tapestry of our food culture, ensuring that the spirit of compassion and community continues to thrive in every bite.