If it’s vegan, I’ll try anything. In fact, the more unfamiliar the ingredient; the more unlikely the pairing; the more visually unappealing, the more I want it. Which brings me to crosnes.
What Are Crosnes?
Tiny, pale corkscrew tubers, you’d be forgiven if you thought it was a juicy grub you just unearthed from your garden. Also known as the Chinese artichoke, Japanese artichoke, Chirogi, Gan Lu Zi, 甘露子, knotroot, or artichoke betony, they originated in Japan, but really took root China, where they were used medicinally as a cold remedy and general respiratory cure-all. Eventually they traveled to Europe in the 1880s, and were named for Crosne, a town near Paris, France. Still relatively unknown, crosnes are very difficult and labor-intensive to harvest, taking them almost entirely off the market.
What Do Crosnes Taste Like?
Crisp like a water chestnuts with a subtly sweet, nutty flavor similar to Jerusalem artichokes, they’re best eaten raw or lightly cooked. Boiled or stewed, they lose their shape, melting away into unidentifiable starchy sludge. Don’t lose the opportunity to enjoy what makes them so special-even if part of that is evocative of young larvae. Just trust the process.
Cooking With Crosnes
Crosnes can be cooked in a variety of ways, most notably by sautéing, roasting, flash-frying, and pickling. No matter the method, be careful not to overcook them, using high heat and short cook times. Always wash thoroughly to remove the dirt, but peeling is optional, largely for aesthetics. That said, the skin comes right off once blanched in boiling water for 60 seconds, plunged into ice water, then simply scrubbed well.
- To sauté crosnes, heat some olive oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the crosnes and cook for 5-7 minutes, or until they are tender-crisp.
- To roast crosnes, preheat your oven to 425 degrees F (200 degrees C). Toss the crosnes with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread them out on a baking sheet and roast for 10-15 minutes, or until they are tender and slightly browned.
- To deep-fry crosnes, heat oil to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Fry the crosnes for 2-3 minutes, or until they are golden brown.
Beet-Pickled Crosnes with Garlic and Dill
Serving Suggestions
Though they do have an affinity for Asian and French seasonings, don’t be afraid to experiment with different flavor combinations. Here are a few simple ideas for how to apply that inspiration:
- Salads, chopped or thinly sliced
- Stir fried, with other vegetables and/or noodles
- Pickles, on charcuterie boards, cocktails, or sandwiches
- Pasta, tossed with a butter sauce, red wine ragu, or creamy alfredo
Creamed Crosnes
I’d like to think the crosnes are the filet Mignon of root vegetables; luxurious, expensive, and reserved for special occasions. That’s why I thought of a classic steakhouse preparation suited them well, paired with my favorite mycoprotein steak. Speckled with both black and aleppo pepper, bathed in a creamy mustard-spiked sauce, they’re immersed in a warm, fresh sort of spice that hits right in the sinuses.
Naturally, you could happily skip the fancy plating and toss in some tender chickpeas or baked tofu to make a wholly satisfying one-pot meal instead. If you’re lucky enough to find crosnes, if you even chose to cook them at all, a singular savory indulgence awaits
