Sweet, Salty, and Sour: And Introduction to Li Hing Mui

Capturing hearts and taste buds across the Hawaiian islands for centuries, it’s perplexing that li hing mui never made the jump to the mainland. Utterly unknown throughout most of the world, despite being an indispensable flavoring for tropical snacks and sweets, it’s a compelling, curious ingredient still shrouded in mystery.

What Is Li Hing Mui?

Shriveled, mummified fruits don’t appear to be a promising start for culinary exploration, but these dried Chinese plums defy expectations. Salted to draw out all the moisture, somewhat like Japanese umeboshi, the results are a powerful combination of sweet, sour, and salty tastes. They can be eaten whole, as is, but are more commonly ground into a fine powder and sprinkled over various candies and fruits.

The powder is often cut with licorice, red food coloring, aspartame, and/or saccharine, however, which gives it a sometimes polarizing flavor and creates controversy amongst whole food evangelists.

Flavorful Origins

The story of li hing begins in China, where it’s been used medicinally for centuries. The name “li hing” is derived from the Cantonese words for “traveling perfume” due to its strong aromatic qualities, and “mui” means plum. They’ve been said to help improve digestion, reduce inflammation, and soothe sore throats.

In the 19th century, Chinese immigrants brought this elusive spice with them to Hawaii, where it was embraced by the locals and quickly integrated into traditional Hawaiian cuisine. Snack shops, otherwise known as crack seed stores, always feature li hing prominently, as both a standalone treat and flavoring for gummies, dried fruits, nuts, and more.

Uses and Recipe Suggestions

If you have the whole fruit, it begs to be eaten as is. Be careful, because they do contain hard seeds that you don’t want to bite into! Once powdered though, a whole world of new opportunities opens up.

  • Sprinkle on fresh fruit: Just like a pinch of salt brings out the brilliant sweetness of peak seasonal produce, li hing does that with extra flare. Try it on watermelon, mango, pineapple, apples, and even strawberries.
  • Drinks: Mix a pinch of li hing powder into lemonade for a bright and refreshing beverage. It can also be used to rim the glass of a margarita, since it already has a touch of salt. When you’re feeling under the weather, it’s a wonderfully comforting addition to a mug of hot tea, too.
  • Candy: Particularly popular as a coating for gummy bears, you can make your own or take plant-based gummies and toss them in li hing before digging in. These are best enjoyed right away, since the salt can draw out moisture as it sits and make them gooey over time.
  • Frozen treats: Embrace the traditional Hawaiian shave ice experience by drizzling a li hing syrup over a bed of finely ground ice. You can also blend it into or sprinkle it on top of your favorite fruit sorbets.
  • Popcorn: Trade the usual buttery nooch topping for one that’s a bit more exciting! Go all-in on the Hawaiian theme and make hurricane popcorn with rice crackers and furikake while you’re at it. You can also make kettle corn to emphasize the sweetness, mixing the li hing powder right in.

Once you know the inimitable taste of li hing, you can never get enough. Li hing has captured the hearts of many through its journey from China to the Hawaiian islands. Its exotic blend of sweet, tangy, and salty notes has earned it a place in various culinary delights, enhancing everything from fruits to beverages. Whether you’re slowly sipping a li hing cocktail or munching on sweet and sour snacks, this singular flavor is sure to leave a lasting impression.

Ocas For Every Occasion

We have the Incas to thank for many of today’s hottest superfoods. Quinoa took the world by storm, rising from an unknown oddity to ubiquitous healthy staple seemingly overnight. Cassava is now the backbone of countless gluten-free baked goods, not to mention the darling of those following a paleo protocol. Maca, lucuma, and camu camu are all held in high esteem for flavoring desserts and creating natural supplements alike. Still, that’s only a fraction of the unique edible gifts Peru has to offer. Currently little known outside of South America, ocas may be next to make an appearance on that star-studded playbill.

What Are Ocas?

Though the comparisons are unavoidable, ocas are NOT just another type of potato. Also known as uqa in Quechua, the oca is a root vegetable native to the Andes, where its been grown since before known civilization. The tubers come in a wide range of shapes and sizes, but they are typically elongated and finger-like, ranging from 1 centimeter to 4 inches in length. (Pictured here are the smallest variety around, sometimes described as “mini” or “baby” ocas.)

Their skin is bumpy and comes in vibrant colors like red, yellow, orange, purple, and pink. The very same crop can yield a full spectrum sunset or just one shade. The leaves and flowers of the oca plant are also edible and can be used in salads or stir-fries, but are nearly impossible to export given their fragility.

Taste The Rainbow

Although color isn’t an indicator of flavor, not all ocas taste the same. The specific flavor profile can vary depending on the variety and how they are cooked. Complex and multifaceted, the taste can be described as combination of four primary elements:

  • Sweet: Similar to sweet potato or butternut squash, with a a heightened perception of the natural sugars.
  • Sour: A slight tartness, similar to green apples or raw rhubarb, which adds a refreshing note.
  • Nutty: A hint of nuttiness, like chestnuts or hazelnuts, adding depth.
  • Earthy: As you might expect from a root vegetable, similar to white potatoes or gold beets.

How To Eat And Cook With Ocas

Raw ocas are truly special; crisp and crunchy, with a slight snap when bitten, they make a stunning addition to a plate of dip and crudités. Though also fabulous when cooked, they begin to lose some of their defining characteristics that set them apart from supermarket spuds. Their colors become muted with heat and time, though that can be mitigated somewhat by using more acidic ingredients (lemon juice, vinegar, tomatoes) to preserve the volatile anthocyanins.

To reiterate, ocas are not potatoes, but they can be prepared any way you would cook potatoes.

  • Boiling: This is a simple and effective method, resulting in a soft and tender texture. Cook whole ocas in boiling water for 10-15 minutes, or until tender when pierced with a fork.
  • Roasting: Roasting brings out the natural sweetness and creates a crispy exterior. Preheat oven to 425 degrees, toss ocas with olive oil and herbs, and roast for 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown and fork-tender.
  • Sautéing: Sautéed ocas are another delicious option. Heat oil in a pan over medium heat, add chopped ocas, and cook for 5-7 minutes, or until slightly softened. Add other ingredients like onions, peppers, or spices for added flavor.
  • Frying: Ocas can be deep-fried for a crispy snack or side dish. However, this is the least healthy option due to added fat.
  • Mashing: Mashed ocas are a smooth and creamy side dish. Boil ocas for 20 minutes until soft, then mash with vegan butter, non-dairy milk, and your favorite seasonings.

Recipe Ideas

What sets ocas apart from your average taproot is their versatility. Most focus on their savory applications, but they’re equally appealing when used in desserts. That means they’re fantastic…

  • Candied, either by plunging them into hot caramelized sugar and let set, or tossed with aquafaba and coarse sugar.
  • On top of yogurt or smoothie bowls.
  • Tossed into fruit salads as well as leafy green salads.
  • Baked into focaccia or used as a topping for flatbreads and pizzas.
  • Mixed with diced potatoes and pan-fried as hash browns.
  • Lightly simmered in soups or stews.
  • Canned, either as pickles or sweet preserves and jam.

Keep An Eye Out For Ocas

With their unique flavor profile, diverse textures, and vibrant colors, ocas offer a wholly satisfying adventure for your taste buds. From simple raw snacks to creative culinary uses, this ancient Andean root vegetable is poised for a modern comeback.

Get Your Grub On With Crosnes

If it’s vegan, I’ll try anything. In fact, the more unfamiliar the ingredient; the more unlikely the pairing; the more visually unappealing, the more I want it. Which brings me to crosnes.

What Are Crosnes?

Tiny, pale corkscrew tubers, you’d be forgiven if you thought they were a juicy grubs you just unearthed from your garden. Also known as the Chinese artichoke, Japanese artichoke, Chirogi, Gan Lu Zi, 甘露子, knotroot, or artichoke betony, they originated in Japan, but really took root in China, where they were used medicinally as a cold remedy and general respiratory cure-all. Eventually they traveled to Europe in the 1880s, and were named for Crosne, a town near Paris, France. Still relatively unknown, crosnes are very difficult and labor-intensive to harvest, taking them almost entirely off the market.

What Do Crosnes Taste Like?

Crisp like water chestnuts with a subtly sweet, nutty flavor similar to Jerusalem artichokes, they’re best eaten raw or lightly cooked. Boiled or stewed, they lose their shape, melting away into unidentifiable starchy sludge. Don’t lose the opportunity to enjoy what makes them so special -even if part of that is evocative of young larvae. Just trust the process.

Cooking With Crosnes

Crosnes can be cooked in a variety of ways, most notably by sautéing, roasting, flash-frying, and pickling. No matter the method, be careful not to overcook them, using high heat and short cook times. Always wash thoroughly to remove the dirt, but peeling is optional, largely for aesthetics. That said, the skin comes right off once blanched in boiling water for 60 seconds, plunged into ice water, then simply scrubbed well.

  • To sauté crosnes, heat some olive oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the crosnes and cook for 5-7 minutes, or until they are tender-crisp.
  • To roast crosnes, preheat your oven to 425 degrees F (200 degrees C). Toss the crosnes with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread them out on a baking sheet and roast for 10-15 minutes, or until they are tender and slightly browned.
  • To deep-fry crosnes, heat oil to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Fry the crosnes for 2-3 minutes, or until they are golden brown.

Beet-Pickled Crosnes with Garlic and Dill

Serving Suggestions

Though they do have an affinity for Asian and French seasonings, don’t be afraid to experiment with different flavor combinations. Here are a few simple ideas for how to apply that inspiration:

  • Salads, chopped or thinly sliced
  • Stir fried, with other vegetables and/or noodles
  • Pickles, on charcuterie boards, cocktails, or sandwiches
  • Pasta, tossed with a butter sauce, red wine ragu, or creamy alfredo

Creamed Crosnes

I’d like to think the crosnes are the filet Mignon of root vegetables; luxurious, expensive, and reserved for special occasions. That’s why I thought a classic steakhouse preparation suited them well, paired with my favorite mycoprotein steak. Speckled with both black and aleppo pepper, bathed in a creamy mustard-spiked sauce, they’re immersed in a warm, fresh sort of spice that hits right in the sinuses.

Naturally, you could happily skip the fancy plating and toss in some tender chickpeas or baked tofu to make a wholly satisfying one-pot meal instead. If you’re lucky enough to find crosnes, if you even chose to cook them at all, a singular savory indulgence awaits

Continue reading “Get Your Grub On With Crosnes”

Chayote Ugly

For such a globally beloved vegetable, it’s surprising that chayote remains on the fringes of popular food culture. Known colloquially as a vegetable pear or alligator pear for its resemblance to the fruit, such cute pet names undercut its importance. For many, it’s a connection to tradition, history, and the unique flavors of numerous cultures.

What Are Chayote?

Depending on who you’re talking to, you might be refer to this same specimen as choko, mango squash, mirliton, Mexican pear squash, cho-cho, or tayota. Chayote (Sechium edule) are members of the gourd family. Native to Mexico, this bright green, pear-shaped vegetable has a mild and subtly sweet flavor, often compared to cucumber (if eaten raw) or zucchini (when cooked). Being so delicate and largely neutral, it’s a highly versatile ingredient that can easily adapt to many dishes and flavor profiles. It’s an ideal platform for supporting bolder spices and melding seamlessly into any dish.

Roughly the size of a large avocado, every part of the chayote is edible. That includes the skin and single seed in the center. Either can be removed for textural preferences, especially if it’s an older vegetable which has a tougher, thicker peel and pit. Gardeners can also avail themselves of the roots, stems, and leaves as prime cooking fodder as well.

Types Of Chayote

While the most common variety is the green Chayote Criollo, there are other cultivated types and local variations that can be found in different regions. Here are a few notable chayote varieties:

  • Chayote de Caballo: A close kin to the common chayote, this variety distinguishes itself with a skin adorned in prickles, adding an extra layer of protection and character.
  • Chayotillo: Uncommon yet hardy, Chayotillo stands out for its rare disease resistance. While its appearance mirrors the common variety, its ability to withstand ailments sets it apart, offering a reliable and robust option for cultivation.
  • Cabeza de Chango: With a preference for the Mexican climate, Cabeza de Chango has adapted to thrive under high humidity conditions. Originating from Mexico, this variety showcases resilience in the face of challenging weather.
  • Perulero: Originating in Guatemala, the Perulero variety boasts a light yellow to white color palette. Initially confined to its place of origin, it has now traversed borders, finding a home and cultivation across North America.

A Glimpse Into The Past

Ancient Aztec and Mayan civilizations were hip to the culinary potential of chayote from early on, revering it as a critical dietary staple. Spanish explorers later introduced it to Europe, and it quickly spread to other parts of the world, gaining popularity for its tenacious ability to grow like a weed, agreeable flavor, and adaptability.

Creative Ways to Cook with Chayote

Anything you can do with zucchini or a potato, you can do with chayote, too. That means it’s a excellent candidate for being grilled, baked, sauteed, fried, stuffed, mashed, boiled, pickled, and more. A few easy ideas to get started with include:

  • Salad or slaw, using shredded, raw chayote
  • Crudites with dip, with thin slices of chayote served alongside hummus, guacamole, etc
  • Salsa, diced finely along with tomatoes, onions, and cilantro
  • Stir-fries with noodles and your favorite plant protein
  • Soups and stews, which are so diverse they deserve a whole separate list. A few traditional options [which can be veganized] are…
    • Brazillian Sopa de Chuchu
    • Mexican Caldo de Res
    • Filipino Tinolang Manok
    • Colombian Sancocho de Gallina
    • Indian Dal or Rasam with Seemai Kathirikkai
  • Stuffed and baked, with any sort of meatless filling
  • Roasted or pan-fried with olive oil and salt, plus any herbs and spices you’re craving
  • Air fried batons cooked until crispy and served like French fries

Nutritional Notes

Chayote isn’t just a culinary delight; it’s also a nutritional powerhouse. It’s low in calories and sugar but packed with vitamins and minerals, including vitamin C, potassium, and dietary fiber. The seeds especially are high in protein, antioxidants, and healthy fats.

Navigating through the crowded aisles of local supermarkets, it’s easy to overlook the unassuming chayote. Its versatility, mild flavor, and subtle crunch make it more than just a vegetable; it’s a blank canvas to embellish and embrace the unexpected. Don’t stress the details; there’s no wrong way to enjoy chayote.

Deadly Delicious

In the wrong hands, even the most mundane meal could become your last. It’s the dose that makes the poison, making everything from mochi to plain water a fatal affair. While some people might prefer horror movies and haunted houses to get their thrills, real life is often more terrifying than fiction.

Unmasking the Macabre Morsels

As the witching hour nears, our culinary curiosity takes a wicked turn. It doesn’t take long to unearth a treasure trove of unsuspecting foods that harbor a sinister secret. Hidden in plain sight, there are very real, hidden dangers lurking in some common ingredients, sitting right inside your kitchen at this very moment. Yes, the call is coming from inside your house… It’s too late to run, so you might as well arm yourself with knowledge to fight off a potentially perilous feast.

The Forbidden Fruits

Sweet and beguiling, the bewitching aroma of many common seeded fruits belies a chilling truth. Found in bitter almonds, apple seeds, cherry pits, and apricot kernels, amygdalin produces an alluring almond scent that many do in fact harness to make desserts. However, this deadly chemical compound can release cyanide when metabolized.

Tomato Terror

It’s a fiendish twist that the vibrant and beloved tomato, star of salads and sauces alike, could harbor a dark secret. The leaves and stems of the tomato plant contain a substance called tomatine. In large quantities, tomatine can be toxic, causing symptoms ranging from stomach distress to paralysis.

Spooky Spuds

At the base of the food pyramid and foundation of society, the humble staple that has comforted and sustained us for generations. However, in the blink of an eye, they would rip that all away. This unassuming tuber is a member of the nightshade family, infamous for harboring some of the deadliest botanicals. Potatoes, especially when they’ve turned green from exposure to light, can contain solanine, a toxin that causes nausea, vomiting, and even hallucinations.

Spices of Sorcery

As you stir your cauldron full of culinary concoctions, consider the mystical power of spices to transform ordinary dishes into enchanting delights. Yet, even these magical ingredients hold ghastly potential. Nutmeg, celebrated for its aromatic warmth, can induce hallucinations and even convulsions when consumed in excessive quantities. Cinnamon, essential for pumpkin spice, can become a poison in large doses, leading to digestive distress and even organ damage.

Savor the Flavors, Beware the Bites

As we revel in the eerie ambiance of Halloween and savor the delicious delights that tickle our taste buds, let us not forget the uncanny truths that lie beneath the surface. The foods we consider mundane can harbor a touch of the macabre, reminding us that even in our culinary escapades, a dash of caution is as vital as the pinch of salt in our cauldrons. Tread lightly as you embark on your Halloween feast, for you never know what black magic awaits in the shadows of the pantry.

Lil’ Cauli, AKA Caulilini

The first time I encountered caulilini on a menu, I thought it was a typo. Who would deliberately construct such a lilting, twee word and expect it to be taken seriously?

No matter what you want to call it, caulilini has earned its place at the table. Long, slender green stems end in delicate white florets that are surprisingly airy, in contrast to the density of conventional cauliflower.

Caulilini: Ancient or Avant Garde?

Curiously, very little information exists about the history of this curious baby brassica. Most point to Mann Packing as the origin of caulilini in the US as we know it, first packaging it for retail consumers in 2019. The truth is, they didn’t invent the vegetable, but they do have one hell of a marketing team.

What Is Caulilini?

Otherwise known as Chinese cauliflower, these elegant stalks have been popular in Asian cuisine for centuries. They developed as the result of natural plant breeding, not genetic engineering or hybridization. It may also go by the name of karifuore, fioretto cauliflower, sprouting cauliflower, and flowering cauliflower, depending on who you ask.

Though still somewhat uncommon in North America, awareness is spreading thanks in large part to Trader Joe’s, who began selling “baby cauliflower” in the produce section about a year ago, making it more accessible than ever before.

Recipe Ideas and Serving Suggestions

Anything cauliflower can do, caulilini can do better. Those might be fighting words, but I’ve personally found it to be true. In raw form, flowering cauliflower has a mildly sweet flavor that’s not as pungent as the common heads. That makes it an excellent crudité to serve with hummus, or tossed into salads and slaws as is.

What’s more, the elegant stalks can easily be swapped in anywhere that broccoli rabe or asparagus is called for. Caulilini’s tender stems and elegant florets are blank canvases that can be painted with any flavors you crave. Beyond herbs and spices, they’re suitable for every single cooking technique under the sun. That means grilling, steaming, sauteing, searing, baking, roasting, deep frying, stir frying, air frying, pickling, even boiling are all fair game.

Caulilini Nutritional Benefits

Like other cruciferous vegetables, it has naturally occurring antioxidants that help fight inflammation and protect against cancer. Notably high in potassium and calcium in particular, as well as dietary fiber and antioxidants, this vegetable can bolster your immune system and support overall well being. Low in calories just like conventional cauliflower, it’s a volume-eater’s dream come true.

Caulilini? Caul It Delicious

While you could do all the same tricks with caulilini as cauliflower, like ricing or mashing, it seems a waste to lose its original beauty. Caulilini is available in stores throughout the summer and into early autumn, so you when you find it, stock up. Happily, it freezes beautifully for year-round enjoyment. Good taste should never go out of season.