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Ideas in Phyllosophy

For a ready-made ingredient that’s widely found in mainstream markets, phyllo dough seems to produce a disproportionate amount of angst. Otherwise savvy bakers blanch at the idea of working with the delicate pastry sheets, and while it does take a gentle touch, most fears are largely overblown. It’s not as if they’ll shatter if you merely look at them wrong. The best way to overcome any phyllo anxiety is to dive right in with some exposure therapy, and I have a truly foolproof recipe to start you on the path to recovery. Portokalopita is meant to be broken in the first place.

A Break-Out Success

My original motivation for making portokalopita was to use up scraps of leftover phyllo dough from previous projects. Since I can’t possibly throw away perfectly good food, those random shards sat in the freezer for a good long time before being unearthed. Dried out beyond their ideally pliable state, there was no separating the sheet to make a flaky layered pastry. Instead, portokalopita encourages you to rip or crumble them all up, drop them into a baking pan, and smother them with a yogurt-based custard. Absolutely zero finesse is required, you can use up all your extra phyllo scraps, and there’s no way to mess it up.

Proof Of The Pudding

Thought often described as a cake, the texture is much denser and more moist, like a rich baked pudding. A heavy pour of olive oil creates body and substance, cut by the bright acidity of fresh citrus. My version skips the eggs, of course, and cuts the sugar and oil substantially. It’s traditional to make a separate orange syrup to pour on top, but a light drizzle of vegan honey does the trick for my taste buds. I would never claim my version to be remotely authentic, but I do confidently declare it to be delicious.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

Get Your Grub On With Crosnes

If it’s vegan, I’ll try anything. In fact, the more unfamiliar the ingredient; the more unlikely the pairing; the more visually unappealing, the more I want it. Which brings me to crosnes.

What Are Crosnes?

Tiny, pale corkscrew tubers, you’d be forgiven if you thought they were a juicy grubs you just unearthed from your garden. Also known as the Chinese artichoke, Japanese artichoke, Chirogi, Gan Lu Zi, 甘露子, knotroot, or artichoke betony, they originated in Japan, but really took root in China, where they were used medicinally as a cold remedy and general respiratory cure-all. Eventually they traveled to Europe in the 1880s, and were named for Crosne, a town near Paris, France. Still relatively unknown, crosnes are very difficult and labor-intensive to harvest, taking them almost entirely off the market.

What Do Crosnes Taste Like?

Crisp like water chestnuts with a subtly sweet, nutty flavor similar to Jerusalem artichokes, they’re best eaten raw or lightly cooked. Boiled or stewed, they lose their shape, melting away into unidentifiable starchy sludge. Don’t lose the opportunity to enjoy what makes them so special -even if part of that is evocative of young larvae. Just trust the process.

Cooking With Crosnes

Crosnes can be cooked in a variety of ways, most notably by sautéing, roasting, flash-frying, and pickling. No matter the method, be careful not to overcook them, using high heat and short cook times. Always wash thoroughly to remove the dirt, but peeling is optional, largely for aesthetics. That said, the skin comes right off once blanched in boiling water for 60 seconds, plunged into ice water, then simply scrubbed well.

  • To sauté crosnes, heat some olive oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the crosnes and cook for 5-7 minutes, or until they are tender-crisp.
  • To roast crosnes, preheat your oven to 425 degrees F (200 degrees C). Toss the crosnes with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread them out on a baking sheet and roast for 10-15 minutes, or until they are tender and slightly browned.
  • To deep-fry crosnes, heat oil to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Fry the crosnes for 2-3 minutes, or until they are golden brown.

Beet-Pickled Crosnes with Garlic and Dill

Serving Suggestions

Though they do have an affinity for Asian and French seasonings, don’t be afraid to experiment with different flavor combinations. Here are a few simple ideas for how to apply that inspiration:

  • Salads, chopped or thinly sliced
  • Stir fried, with other vegetables and/or noodles
  • Pickles, on charcuterie boards, cocktails, or sandwiches
  • Pasta, tossed with a butter sauce, red wine ragu, or creamy alfredo

Creamed Crosnes

I’d like to think the crosnes are the filet Mignon of root vegetables; luxurious, expensive, and reserved for special occasions. That’s why I thought a classic steakhouse preparation suited them well, paired with my favorite mycoprotein steak. Speckled with both black and aleppo pepper, bathed in a creamy mustard-spiked sauce, they’re immersed in a warm, fresh sort of spice that hits right in the sinuses.

Naturally, you could happily skip the fancy plating and toss in some tender chickpeas or baked tofu to make a wholly satisfying one-pot meal instead. If you’re lucky enough to find crosnes, if you even chose to cook them at all, a singular savory indulgence awaits

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Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments

Not Mincing Words

For those who know, the mere mention picadillo conjures up images of a warm, cozy kitchen, saucepan bubbling away on the stove, filling the whole house with the scent of simmering spices. Humble, hearty, and always comforting, it’s put protein at the center of the plate for centuries. Now, combining modern technology and culinary traditions, it’s time that picadillo goes plant-based.

What Is Picadillo?

Though often described as a beef hash, some might argue that it has more in common with American sloppy Joe’s or chili con carne. The word itself comes from the Spanish picar, or “to mince,” alluding to the roughly chopped meat. Ingredients vary wildly depending on who you ask, but common, unifying factors usually include some sort of tomatoes, onions, and peppers.

Picadillo Goes Vegan

While old-fashioned picadillo preparations are limited to beef and/or pork, there aren’t any constraints to the creative possibilities with plant-based alternatives. Staying true to the humility and lack of pretension in the original dish, I went with classic textured vegetable protein, also known as TVP or TSP (textured soy protein; same difference.) The problem is that by itself, TVP is incredibly bland.

That’s where Sugimoto Shiitake Powder comes into play! A small sprinkle adds incredible depth of savory flavor that tastes downright meaty, without any overt mushroom flavor. To up the ante, I love adding finely minced shiitake caps or stems, but this approach is perfect for picky eaters and mushroom haters. You get all of the umami, amplifying the inherent richness of the tomatoes, olives, and spices, with zero downsides.

This same trick works beautifully when using fresh or frozen vegan ground beef, too. Cooking it plain, straight out of the package might taste good, but adding some Sugimoto Shiitake Powder will make it great.

Regional Variations Of Picadillo

There’s no wrong way to make picadillo; it’s one of those dishes where everyone and their grandma makes it just a little bit differently. There are, however, distinctive styles found in specific regions:

  • Cuban picadillo, which I model my version after, is briny and rich, with capers, green olives, and sweet raisins for contrast.
  • Puerto Rican picadillo starts with sofrito as its base and is highly seasoned with adobo and sazon.
  • Mexican picadillo typically includes many more vegetables, such as potatoes, carrots, and green peas.
  • Filipino picadillo has ample umami thanks to the inclusion of soy sauce and fish sauce, and is often more soupy or stew-like in consistency.

Plenty of overlap and fusion exists between each version. It’s a recipe ripe to mix and match, pick your favorite elements, and make your own!

Serving Suggestions

Prepping your picadillo is only the first of many delicious decisions. It’s an ideal entree for meal prep since its versatility lends it to myriad serving suggestions. A few of my favorites include:

  • Wrapped up in a burrito
  • On top of tacos or nachos
  • Sandwiched inside a torta or burger bun
  • Alongside rice, mashed potatoes, fried plantains, polenta, or pasta
  • Stuffed inside peppers, cabbage rolls, empanadas, croquettes, or frittatas

Don’t Rush The Process

When making picadillo, the most important ingredient is time. Slowly simmering, patiently, gently, allows all these seemingly disparate elements to meld into a harmonious whole. That’s not say it can’t be a quick fix meal, at least on the second time around. In fact, I prefer eating the leftovers, which keep brilliantly in the fridge for up to a week, or in the freezer for 4 to 6 months, becoming even more flavorful and balanced as they sit.

I’m not going to mince words here; this meatless picadillo is your new favorite meal waiting to happen, no matter how you serve it up.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

Soup Season

“Soup season” is both deeply appealing and bothersome as a concept. As the chill of autumn descends and winter’s frosty breath blows in, there’s nothing quite like the warm embrace of a hearty bowl of piping hot soup. This is the “soup season” that captivates the imagination of hungry comfort-seekers everywhere, and yet, there are so many other days when soup is exactly what the moment calls for. What about those balmy spring days that call for light, fresh veggie blends? What about hot summer evenings when a crisp, chilled gazpacho is the only thing that can truly take the edge off?

Fortunately, I’m not alone in my love of soups all year round. Nava Atlas, a seasoned master of plant-based cuisine, has crafted a timeless tome to all things broth-based in her latest masterpiece, Vegan Soups and Stews for All Seasons.

As a long-time fan, friend, and co-conspirator, my expectations are always high and still always exceeded. Having photographed the bulk of the book, I can say with complete confidence that there’s not a dud to be found in these pages, featuring over 120 recipes.

Spanish Vegetable Stew (Menestra de Verduras)

From the vibrant freshness of spring to the comforting warmth of winter, each section of the book is a celebration of nature’s bounty. Atlas effortlessly guides readers through a bounty of bold flavors, ensuring that every soup and stew is a reflection of the season’s best assets. Lemony Spinach Orzo Soup is a fresh tribute to nature’s renewal come spring, while robust Curried Red Lentil Soup with Sweet Potatoes and Greens warms the soul while snow piles up outside. The recipes are not just a collection of instructions but rather a narrative that tells the story of each season through a bowl of vibrant, homemade soup.

Tangy Cold Potato Spinach Soup

What sets Nava’s work apart is her ability to create dishes that are accessible yet elevated, using simple techniques that accentuate basic staples. Novice cooks will appreciate the detailed instructions and ingredient explanations, while seasoned chefs will revel in the opportunity to experiment with unique flavor profiles. Herbs and spices draw inspiration from global influence, while using whole foods to create dishes that are both health-conscious and indulgent.

Sweet and Sour Cabbage Soup

Vegan Soups and Stews for All Seasons is more than just a compilation of assorted recipes; it’s a perennial companion to weather any cravings. Nava Atlas has once again proven that plant-based cooking is not just a trend but a timeless celebration of flavors. Whether you’re a deep-rooted vegan or a curious omnivore, this cookbook deserves a spot on your shelf for its creativity, accessibility, and the sheer joy it brings to the art of soup-making.

Hearty Winter Root Vegetable Stew

Naturally, soup is best when shared, so I’m very happy to give away two copies of the book, personalized and signed by Nava herself! To enter, leave me a comment below about your favorite soup right now. Is it something you make, enjoy at a restaurant, buy from the store? There’s no soup shame here! Don’t forget to come back and fill out the entry form below to log your submission, and unlock a number of additional methods to rack up extra entries. Good luck!

Vegan Soups and Stews for All Seasons by Nava Atlas

Hannah (BitterSweet)21 Comments

Sweet On Potatoes

In the wake of the holidays, the impulse to overcompensate for celebratory indulgences can drive even sane eaters to the very edge of madness. New Year’s resolutions are almost always geared towards shaping up, and food is the first target to focus on. “Losing weight” has been the top response of those surveyed for over a decade running, and it’s no surprise considering how decadent those early winter feasts can become. By this time, two weeks into the year, roughly half of people have already admitted defeat and given up on those lofty aspirations.

Snack Happier

Rather than going down the path of deprivation and sad, austere meals, finding satisfying eats will prove much more effective in the long run. In fact, contrary to the traditional three-square-meal approach, it may be beneficial to add more nourishing, wholesome snacks. Plus, those midday munchies can be downright decadent in flavor without taking a toll on your waistline.

Eat The Whole Batch

Crunchy, lightly salted baked sweet potato chips fit the definition of health food while vanquishing cravings in one resounding bite. Naturally sweet, you’ll never miss the added sugars typically found in packaged treats, nor the extra oils used for frying. Paired with a deceptively simple, creamy dip, the duo could even pass for dessert, too. Owing its caramel flavor to nothing more than soft Medjool dates, dairy-free yogurt makes up the bulk of this probiotic-packed accompaniment.

Make It Your Own

Although you can’t go wrong with the classic approach, sprinkling a tiny pinch of coarse salt to heighten the existing essence of the potato, the sky is the limit for creative seasonings.

Choose your own flavor adventure! Try any of the following seasoning mixtures to spice things up a bit…

  • Simple Cinnamon Sugar: 1 Tablespoon Granulated Sugar + 1/2 Teaspoon Ground Cinnamon
  • Gingerbread: 1 Tablespoon Granulated Sugar + 1/2 Teaspoon Ground Ginger + 1/4 Teaspoon Ground Cinnamon + 1/8 Teaspoon Ground Nutmeg
  • Citrus Sunshine: 1 Tablespoon Granulated Sugar + 1 Teaspoon Orange Zest + 1 Teaspoon Lemon Zest
  • Sweet & Spicy: 1 Tablespoon Granulated Sugar + 1/4 Teaspoon Ground Black Pepper + 1/4 Teaspoon Cayenne Pepper

Riffle through your spice collection and go wild! These are just a few suggestions for my favorite flavors, but that’s only the beginning for this versatile chip.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments