Tag: vegan

In a Loaf Far, Farro Away

Whole wheat bread is out; farro bread is in. As we turn the pages to a new calendar year, it’s time for a fresh start, and a new approach to ancient grains.

When “Whole Wheat” Isn’t the Whole Story

Technically speaking, farro also qualifies as “whole wheat”, and more specifically, three types of whole wheat, as we touched upon when discussing emmer, the most popular type of farro. However, generic “whole wheat bread” most likely employs hard red wheat, which makes up approximately 40% of total U.S. wheat production. Nutty, robust, and high in protein, it’s no mystery why it became the poster child for wholesome baking, particularly following the counterculture movement of the 1970s, rejecting the processed white loaves proliferating on grocery store shelves. At the same time, it became the sworn enemy of many children bringing packed lunches to school, discovering those dark, dense, and bitter slabs imprisoning wan fillings, bereft of all fun. Whole wheat had soured many generations on the idea of a more wholesome loaf.

In an attempt to elevate the profile (and gluten structure) of whole wheat bread, many brands started producing “whole grain” bread, which was mostly white bread with a bit of color. The fact that they included any meager amount of whole grains gave them the legal grounds to use the label, much to the detriment of flavor and nutrition. If you ask me, they just started out by using the wrong whole wheat all along.

Farro For All

Farro bread isn’t something you’re likely to find in stores, nor is farro flour. That’s where Grand Teton Ancient Grains comes in. They have all three types of farro in stock; einkorn, emmer, and spelt. Better yet, you can grab a bag of ready-milled all-purpose einkorn flour so you can start preheating the oven that much sooner. Buying in bulk does make a compelling case for having your own grain mill, though, especially for breaking down those whole spelt berries. Consider it the best gift you didn’t get for the holidays and treat yourself to a better New Year.

Unlike modern hard red wheat, which has been bred for high yields, consistent protein levels, and machine-friendly milling, farro varieties hold on to traits that industrial agriculture left behind. Emmer and einkorn, for example, have naturally higher levels of carotenoids, which contribute to their flaxen color and subtle sweetness. Spelt tends to be more water-soluble, which is why dough made with it can feel slack even when the protein percentage looks high on paper. Their husked kernels also protect the grain from environmental stress, which is great for biodiversity but makes them harder to process. Grand Teton Ancient Grains is keeping history alive by putting these grains back on the table. You can truly taste that difference.

The Farro Trifecta in Action

All-purpose einkorn flour is the key to success. Soft as freshly fallen snow, it lightens the crumb both in texture and color, not to mention that stunning golden hue it imparts. Edging in on brioche territory, you’d think there was egg in the mix for all its richness. To that majority component, whole spelt flour adds an earthy undertone, grounding the flavor with notes of toasted walnuts and a subtle minerality. Most noticeable, whole cooked emmer berries are woven throughout the crumb, stealing the spotlight with their irresistibly chewy, hearty texture that adds a satisfying heft to every bite.

Altogether, it’s sturdy enough to slice thinly for sandwiches, and still soft enough to cut into thick slabs for dunking into soups, or simply eating plain. Truth be told, I ate roughly 75% of this particular loaf untoasted and unadorned, aside from the thinnest glaze of vegan butter smeared on top.

Rave-Worthy Results

I’m terminally intolerant of breathless hyperbole, deliberately honing my praise to a more reasonable tenor, but this one is hard to be modest about. Of all the loaves I’ve made, this is honestly one of my top five favorites, at least. Maybe even top three, but I don’t want to hurt anyone’s feelings. It’s just as easy to whip up as any other humble sandwich bread, while having nuanced, complex flavor that you’d think could only come from a 24- or 36-hour ferment.

Better Living Through Baking

Make your New Year’s resolution to bake more bread from scratch. It’s a tangible, achievable goal with myriad benefits for health, sustainability, frugality, and honestly, happiness. Even on my worst days, a slice of warm farro bread has never failed to buoy my spirits.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments

2025 Obituaries: The Dearly Departed Vegan Restaurants of Austin, TX

Looking back on 2025, I think we can all agree the year has been a mixed bag, to put it lightly. It does my heart good to reflect on all the joyous moments, which often get lost in the bigger picture. In terms of the Austin food scene, that means the evolution of Rison & Lotts, the official opening of Carnaless after months of false starts, the birth of upstart raw foods cafe Conscious Kitchen, and the overall growing availability of vegan food across mainstream restaurants. There’s so much to celebrate for plant-based food-lovers, now more than ever.

At the same time, it’s important to honor the fallen. We’ve lost some good ones along the way, punching gaping holes in the dining landscape that can’t be filled. The restaurant industry is never a kind nor gentle enterprise to endeavor; the least we can do is pay our respects to those who, despite grand plans and good intentions, came up short.


Cinnaholic

Trouble was afoot late in 2024 when Cinnaholic in the Arboretum was listed as “temporarily closed” on Google maps. That turned into a concrete and permanent closure by the time mid-January rolled around, without any word or warning. Though the chain is still thriving with over 70 bakeries operating at full steam across the United States and Canada, the nearest location is now roughly 100 miles away in College Station. Worth a road trip, but a considerable barrier to entry for anyone looking to get instant cinnamon roll gratification.

Milkyway Shakes

After narrowly escaping an untimely demise the previous year, the rising star of blended ice cream beverages flamed out suddenly and spectacularly in mid-July. Personally, this was devastating, as it was one of the OG trailers that made me fall in love with Austin on my very first visit. There’s still no one else around that makes a better milkshake, vegan or not, and I dare you to challenge me on that claim. Seriously though, please do; our options for frozen desserts here are melting away faster than the summer sun can reach peak intensity.

TarryTown Bar & Bistro + TarryTown Cafe

Barely a blip on the radar, these two adjoining spots filled the spaces vacated the previous year by The Beer Plant and Tellus Joe for barely enough time to register their (now defunct) websites. Plagued from the very beginning by a lack of communication, a scandal soon broke that they were serving non-vegan items, despite their claims of being 100% plant-based. Despite offers for help, they never recovered, snuffing out their own lights before angry former diners could dust off their pitchforks.

Possum Pizza

After threatening that the end was near in no uncertain terms for months, this retro trailer camped out at Vegan Nom Food Park made good on their word in September. No more creative pies topped with bacon mac and cheese or Philly cheesesteak. No more crispy popplers dunked in creamy ranch dressing. No more mozz sticks snarfed down at dusk, satisfying the need for nostalgic comfort food. The space left by their vacancy is both a gut punch and a slow burn. We knew it was coming, and yet, it’s still hard to believe it could really happen.

Koriente

Abruptly and without warning, Austinites woke up one morning in November to discover that Koriente had slipped away. A bastion of denizens downtown in search of healthy, balanced, and affordable meals, the inclusive pan-Asian menu made sure there was something for everyone at the table. The Rice Medallion Saute was a staple for almost 20 years, serving as lunch for office workers and late night meals for bar hoppers alike. Tofu was treated with respect here, a prime protein rather some sad alternative, enlightening many Obake Bowls, Bibimbap, and my personal favorite, the Shiitake Tofu. It’s hard to grapple with such an abrupt end to this legacy.

Rebel Cheese

Shark Tank winner Rebel Cheese shocked all of Texas by announcing the closure of the Austin cafe that started it all. World-renowned for their artisan cheeses that won over omnivores and staunch cheese-lovers without qualifications, the closure felt unthinkable to fans who watched the brand rise from a single counter to national acclaim. This classy yet casual bistro was like the savory version of an ice cream shop, allowing visitors to sample any and all of the funky, fermented wheels beckoning from behind the glass case. It’s not all bad news, at least: Rebel Cheese will continue on as a national retail brand while also maintaining their in-person hot spot in NYC’s Essex Market. The founders have promised that another 100% vegan eatery will take their place in Mueller, retaining a few beloved menu items from the original entrees, but it’ll be hard to fill that cheese-shaped hole in our hearts.

What will the next 12 months bring? More heartache? More innovation? Likely, if previous years are any indication, a fair amount of both. If we’re lucky, we’ll at least break even, with more delicious memories to keep us all going. Although no one person can save a doomed business, don’t forget that everyone plays a part. Support the one-offs, the mom and pops, the little guys following their dreams. In case you’re still looking for one, I think that alone would make a fine New Year’s resolution.

Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Co-op and Carry On

If you think a grocery store is just a place to pick up tofu and toilet paper, then you’ve never been to Wheatsville. Deeply ingrained into daily life, and the very fiber of what makes Austin so special, this cooperative grocer has long stood as a beacon of community, compassion, and holistic healthy living. It’s where I go not just to shop, but to connect with local food, real people, and a genuine sense of purpose.

Roots That Run Deep

Wheatsville was born in 1976 from the hopes of a small group of idealists, dreamers, and food justice advocates who dared to believe that a better food system was possible. They named it Wheatsville to honor the first black community in Austin of Wheatville, established following the Civil War, founded in 1867 by James Wheat, who was formerly a slave.

More than a nod to past history, it was a promise to make this a place for everyone. What was, and still is, a radical concept of a community-owned store for fresh food, fair wages, and collective care, immediately put the original Guadalupe location on the map. In 2013, they were able to expand that vision into a second location on South Lamar, which has become even more involved in upholding those original values with a consistent stock of over 80% organic produce, niche products from local small businesses, and options for all dietary needs.

Better Choices In Bulk

One of the first things that hits you when you walk into Wheatsville, after the friendly “Hey, how’s it going?” at the door, is the wealth of options in the bulk section. While most stores have done away with the zero-packaging approach post-COVID, Wheatsville maintains theirs as an accessible, environmentally responsible way to stock up on all your dry goods. Dozens of clear bins line the aisle like a rainbow: heirloom beans, wasabi peas, jasmine rice, unsulfured dried mango (their best seller), and fresh pecans alike are at your disposal, in exactly the quantity you need. You can bring your own jars, which is fully encouraged, not just grudgingly tolerated, to prevent food waste and plastic waste alike.

Turn around to see the opposite side of the aisle, where the scent of freshly roasted bulk coffee beckons, irresistibly aromatic even if it wasn’t originally on your shopping list. Nearby, the peanut butter grinder hums softly, turning simple peanuts into creamy perfection right before your eyes, no sweeteners, fillers, or emulsifiers in sight. Even household goods like soaps and pet foods can be purchased in bulk, without the brand name price.

The Deli of Dreams

Say the words “popcorn tofu” and everyone will know what you’re talking about around here. This iconic protein has taken on a life of its own, spurring copycats across the globe, but none can quite replicate these deeply umami, meaty nuggets. I remember my on my very first visit to Austin, it was essential that I tried this mythical dish, and I understood the attraction at first bite. I even walked into a cactus trying to get there, but that’s a story for another time. Over 10 years later, they still have the same power over me. Find them in sandwiches, on the hot bar, at the deli, and chilling with the prepared foods to choose your own tofu adventure at home.

Rivaling that level of fame, the African Peanut Soup is a cult classic; thick, rich, and hearty enough to cure all malaise, including that of the spirit. Accompanying that perennial offering, the hot bar rotates with greatest hits like vegan mac and cheese and breakfast tacos, in addition to a full self-serve salad bar.

The build-your-own deli counter may be a newer addition, but it’s quickly become a favorite. Think Chipotle, if Chipotle actually cared about ingredients. Here, you can design your dream burrito, bowl, salad, wrap or taco with that prize-winning popcorn tofu in both original and buffalo flavors or Beyond steak, veggies, creamy vegan queso, fresh guacamole, and enough salsa options to keep things interesting all week. It’s fast, filling, and made to order, proving that convenience and quality don’t have to be opposites.

Breads, Pastries, and Sweet Surprises

Somehow, amidst all this, Wheatsville also finds time to bake in-house daily. If you happen to be an early riser, you can smell their loaves as they bake every morning, the scent of toasted wheat perfuming the air. I used to live around the corner and had a hard time resisting the lure as I took Luka out for the first walk of the day. For those with a sweet tooth, there’s a variety of cakes, brownies, muffins, and cookies, but if you ask me, the real prize is their vegan donuts. Glazed, filled, sprinkled, or plain, they’re little luxuries that anyone can afford.

Sip, Stay, and Soak It In

Another new feature is that at the South Lamar location, you can now enjoy it all with a cold beer or glass of wine in hand. Thanks to a recently acquired TABC permit, the Bluewillow Lounge has become a true gathering place. Hosting free movie nights, open mics, cooking classes, dance lessons, drag bingo, and so much more, Wheatsville has become THE destination for food and fun, not just another stop along the way.

A Bittersweet Goodbye to Guadalupe

Even the most cherished places aren’t immune to change. In 2026, Wheatsville will be closing its original Guadalupe location, a space it had called home for nearly 50 years. The closure wasn’t a matter of declining sales or foot traffic, but the result of mounting pressure from the I-35 highway expansion project, which brought a wave of uncertainty to the area. Escalating costs, disrupted access, and the looming threat of displacement made a pathway forward impossible to forge.

Help Keep the Co-op Strong

Wheatsville isn’t closing down though. Far from it; it’s rebuilding. The South Lamar store is still open, thriving, and more vital than ever. Now, the co-op has launched a new fundraising campaign to stabilize operations and lay the groundwork for future expansion, hopefully even a new central location, once the dust from I-35 settles.

Here’s how you can help:

  • Shop at South Lamar. Every purchase directly supports the co-op’s mission to pay fair wages, source responsibly, and uplift local producers.
  • Become a co-op owner. Ownership means investing in the future of the store and having a say in how it’s run. It’s community-powered food, literally.
  • Make a direct donation and invest. Even if you’re not local, you can contribute to Wheatsville’s fundraising campaign online. Every dollar goes toward keeping this community cornerstone strong.
  • Spread the word. Tell your friends. Share your Wheatsville memories. Post about your favorite deli order or that one time the vegan donuts saved your morning. The more people who know, the more people who care.

Wheatsville has always been a living example of what’s possible when food is rooted in values, not just transactions. If you believe in that vision, if you’ve ever felt at home among the bulk bins or found joy in a Popcorn Tofu Po Boy, this is the moment to show up.

Co-ops aren’t born of convenience, and they don’t survive by accident; all of it depends on community. In a city changing faster than its skyline, Wheatsville remains something rare and essential. It’s a space rooted in shared values, local flavor, and collective care. Supporting Wheatsville means keeping the soul of Austin alive, and making sure it has a future worth growing into.

Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Pleased as Ponche

Ponche is a lot of things, drawing parallels to innumerable other festive drinks. You could see it as being related to mulled cider, stewed with warm spices and served steaming on cold winter nights. The inclusion of fruits calls to mind sangria, even more so if it happens to be spiked, though more likely with brandy, rum, or tequila than wine. Fruit punch, of course, given that the name translates about the same, has an obvious relation. Mexican ponche, however, is its own unique party starter, even when it defies easy definition.

Paantsch, Ponche, Punch

Ponche has come a long way to reach its current destination as a Latin holiday staple. Originally from India, it was called “paantsch,” meaning “five,” and was accordingly made with five basic ingredients: alcohol, fruit juice, sugar, water, and spices. British sailors became hooked on the brew, bringing it with them on their travels to Europe and the West Indies, adapting it to use local fruits. The Spanish eventually introduced the drink to Mexico, where it was developed into the distinctive drink we know and love today, transformed by the native fruits of the Americas.

Key Ingredients

What makes Mexican ponche special is also what makes it difficult to replicate faithfully in different parts of the world. Key ingredients that may not be as common in US households include:

  • Piloncillo: Unrefined dark brown sugar, often sold in hard cones or blocks, to be chopped, grated, or dissolved in hot liquids, such as this.
  • Tecojotes: AKA Mexican hawthorn, similar to crabapples, they have a sweet and sour tropical flavor, and can be eaten both raw and cooked.

Fortunately, there are as many versions of ponche as there are people that make it, so there’s nothing wrong with a bit of improvising based on availability. This is one of those recipes that’s more like a set of guidelines than rules, open to interpretation as you please.

Serves You Right

Both a drink and a snack, a huge asset to busy hosts is the way it’s served as is, whole fruits and all. Guests can help themselves while the pot simmers gently on the stove, infusing the whole house with citrus and spice. Whether you chose to spike it or not, it’s sure to raise spirits with just one sip.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)12 Comments

Nog Wild

Eggnog is like the festive Swiss army knife of the culinary world. Having such a distinctive flavor and singularly rich texture, it may seem like anything but a versatile multitasker, but there’s a world of possibilities lying just beneath the nutmeg-speckled surface.

Spiced Liquid Gold

Think about it: The base components for conventional eggnog are, of course, eggs, heavy cream, and sugar. What else starts from this foundation? Pretty much any dessert you can think of. While I wouldn’t be so bold as to claim that all vegan versions are created equal, they do reasonably approximate that same essential composition with a thickener/stabilizer, non-dairy equivalent, and sweetener. Just like that, you have a ready-made liquid custard in a carton.

Easy Eggnog Upgrades

Before we even get into the formal recipes, there are scores of treats you can make with zero measuring and minimal effort.

  • French toast: Simply use eggnog to soak sturdy slices of bread and griddle to crispy, custard-y perfection.
  • Bread pudding: Toss cubes of stale bread with eggnog, let it soak until saturated, then bake until golden and set.
  • Ice cream: Pour eggnog straight into an ice cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For the best results, add a splash of brandy or bourbon, both for flavor and a creamier, less icy texture.
  • Overnight oats: Mix with oats, a pinch of salt, and maybe some dried fruits and nuts. Wake up to an easy breakfast indulgence.
  • Coffee creamer: A splash in your morning brew turns it into a holiday latte without the syrupy sweetness of store-bought options.
  • Pancake or waffle batter: Replace the liquid in your mix with eggnog. Add an extra pinch of nutmeg to further the theme.
  • Cake glaze: Whisk with powdered sugar until smooth, then drizzle over pound cake or cinnamon rolls.

Honestly, I could go on, but it would become tiresome to read a laundry list of every cream-based option that could be converted to use this holiday staple.

Stock Up and Start Cooking

I always buy extra vegan eggnog, because it’s delicious, yes, but also because the leftovers are invaluable. Make sure you stock up early so you can make a few of my favorite nog treats. If you play your cards right, you can bask in the afterglow of holiday joy well into January.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)11 Comments