Tag: tutorial

Train Your Brain

I’ve spent more of my formative life on trains than in cars, and I wouldn’t have had it any other way. Trains took me to high school, to my internship and countless exploits in NYC, and all over the Bay Area when I lived in San Francisco. BART basically became my living room for eight years.

Through all of that, I’ve learned a thing or two about how to make the most of train time. It’s easy to zone out and doom scroll until your station’s already behind you. But with just a little planning, these rides can be surprisingly productive. Or restful. Or creatively brilliant. Or sometimes all three, if the stars are aligned.

Here’s how I turn a long train ride into something way more useful than just a way to kill time.

Staying Connected Near and Far

If you’re traveling outside your home country, don’t assume your signal will follow you across borders. It’s especially critical if you’re relying on maps, translation apps, or need to answer a quick work email before you lose Wi-Fi in a tunnel. Every country’s network situation is different, and not every train offers reliable onboard internet.

Do your homework ahead of time. In places like Japan, Europe, or Korea, there are portable hot spots or tourist SIM cards you can grab at the airport. If you’re headed somewhere like China, setting up an eSIM for China before your trip can be a total lifesaver. It lets you stay connected without swapping out physical SIM cards or dealing with kiosk confusion after a red-eye flight.

Trust me, even when you’re focused on staying in the moment to enjoy a scenic train ride, you may be suddenly inspired to upload that perfect video or book your next stop on the fly, and you’ll be glad you planned ahead.

Prepare For Success

You don’t need to map out every minute. Just pick one or two things you want to do. Being genuinely motivated to do them is the key.

To home in on a realistic to-do list, I usually ask myself:

  • Is the backlog of unanswered emails piling up and weighing me down?
  • Is this a good time to sketch out blog post ideas or a new recipe concept?
  • Should I just journal and let my brain unspool a bit?

Five minutes of consideration before boarding makes all the difference, especially if you’re prone to indecision or difficulty delegating like me.

Turn Your Seat Into a Mini Studio

Once I’m settled in, that tray table becomes my command center. Laptop out, headphones in, iced coffee within reach. It’s all the benefits of working in an office, with potentially fewer distractions, and not actually being in an office.

Depending on my ambition (and Wi-Fi access), I might:

  • Edit photos from the last shoot I swore I’d get to eventually
  • Write blog drafts or edit pieces for Vegan Journal
  • Update my never-ending list of ideas in Dropbox or Google Keep

I don’t always get everything done, but that quiet, focused energy is a goldmine for making real headway on any project, big or small. Plus, there’s something about that forward movement that makes it easier to think clearly and keep pressing ahead.

Clean Up Your Digital Mess

Let’s talk about that overstuffed Downloads folder with menus from 2016, still languishing at the bottom. What about the notes app with 174 half-finished grocery lists, brilliant ideas, and zero context? Let’s not mention the email folder full of messages that you one day might need to refer to… But after a decade, haven’t yet. Train rides are the perfect time to clean house.

Easy steps towards better organization are great to do on the train:

  • Sort and label files that need to be kept, and found, more easily
  • Revisit half-written captions or social drafts I abandoned months ago
  • Trash garbage from projects that never came to fruition, contacts that have drifted apart, and other clutter that just has no purpose
  • Delete the twenty identical shots in my camera roll I took “just in case”
  • Tag or favorite any photos that have real potential
  • Back everything up to the cloud while I’ve got a stable signal

I’ve always found it incredibly satisfying to lighten the load.

Learn Something New

If I’m not feeling up to working, I still try to do something that keeps my brain awake and moderately productive. Usually that means:

  • Practicing language skills, especially when visiting a foreign country (Duolingo always comes in clutch)
  • Listening to podcasts and audiobooks that are smarter than me
  • Watching something that isn’t just a funny cat video (though to be honest, a few good cat videos still have their place)

The goal here isn’t productivity for productivity’s sake. It’s about using the time well, and enjoying the process.

Reflect Before You Forget

One thing that trains are great at, in addition to getting you from point A to point B, is giving you space to think. It’s the kind of stillness you don’t get when you’re running around with the busyness of everyday life.

If you’re feeling introspective, check in with yourself:

  • What’s been on my mind lately?
  • What am I proud of that I didn’t take time to celebrate?
  • What am I avoiding?

Sometimes I just write down the little moments I don’t want to forget. That perfect bowl of noodles; the stranger who helped me find the right platform; the playlist that matched the view so perfectly it felt like a movie; eventually, it could add up to a bigger story I want to tell.

Look Ahead

If I’ve got extra time (or just need a break from staring at a screen), I use the last stretch of the ride to prep for what’s next.

That might mean:

  • Checking the weather so I don’t show up in sandals during a downpour
  • Finding a nearby food spot to hit the second I get hungry
  • Reading up on local customs or transit quirks so I don’t accidentally commit a cultural faux pas

I like to arrive feeling ready, not overwhelmed. Train time gives me that edge.

Work It… When It Works

Not every train ride has to be your most productive day ever. Some days, I stare out the window for three hours straight and call it “creative research.” That’s valid too.

But when you want to feel a little more grounded, a little more ahead, or just a little more connected to your own brain, trains are magic. They hold the kind of space we don’t usually make for ourselves.

Next time you’re boarding, bring your charger, your snacks, and your intentions. Make the ride yours. These little in-between moments might just be the best part.

Hannah (BitterSweet)9 Comments

Anthem of Our Dyeing Day

Life is meant to be lived in full color. Though artificial dyes have had us in a choke hold for the past half century, it hasn’t always been that way. Nature has so much to offer, beyond the fleeting rainbow after a storm. Everyday plants, flowers, and even kitchen scraps contain vivid hues waiting to infuse fabrics with vibrant, one-of-a-kind shades. Transform old shirts, plain linen napkins, or even simple scarves into canvases of rich, natural color, all from what’s growing right outside your door or tucked away in your pantry.

Choosing Fibers that Will Accept Natural Dyes

Not all fabrics work equally well when it comes to dyeing. Natural fibers like cotton, linen, bamboo, and hemp tend to absorb natural dyes better than synthetics, which often have a coating that resists dye uptake.

Cellulose fibers (anything that didn’t come from an animal) are plant-based and require special attention in the mordanting process (see below) to ensure they accept dyes effectively. These fibers need to be properly pre-treated with a mordant to help them bond with the dye.

The key to successful natural dyeing is knowing the fiber you’re working with and whether it needs pre-treatment to absorb color properly.

Pre-Treating Cellulose Fibers: Scouring and Mordanting

Cellulose fibers like cotton and linen are less naturally absorbent when it comes to dyeing. That’s where scouring and mordanting come in.

  • Scouring is a cleaning process that removes any oils, dirt, or factory residues from the fibers. This step ensures that your dye bath will take evenly across the fabric. To scour fibers, simmer them in a water solution with a mild detergent (like a dish soap) for about 30-60 minutes. Rinse thoroughly before dyeing.
  • Mordanting is the process of applying a mordant, a substance that helps the dye bond to the fiber. Alum (potassium aluminum sulfate) is the most commonly used mordant for cellulose fibers, but iron and copper can also be used for different color effects. A simple alum mordanting process involves simmering the fabric in a mordant solution for an hour or so, then allowing it to cool and soak in the solution for at least 24 hours.

Mordanting is especially important for cellulose fibers because it helps the dye adhere to the fibers, resulting in more vibrant and long-lasting colors.

Choosing Colorful Plants for Your Project

The beauty of natural dyeing lies in its vast palette of colors, waiting right outside your door, or already on your kitchen counter. Here are some classic dye plants to get you started:

  • Red onion skins, rose petals, annatto seeds, and cranberries – There’s no lack of bold red options, which can create everything from soft pinks to deep maroons.
  • Beets – Yep, those earthy roots can give you stunning reds and pinks. Plus, you can eat the leftovers!
  • Marigolds, yarrow, and daffodils – These cheerful flowers are perfect for warm yellows and oranges, making them a go-to for a sunny, vibrant dye.
  • Cabbage – Believe it or not, red cabbage leaves can produce everything from pale blues to rich purples, depending on the pH of your dye bath.
  • Turmeric – This kitchen staple gives off a bold yellow color, perfect for adding a touch of sunshine to your projects.
  • Blackberries and blueberries – If you’ve got a stash of these berries, they can give you rich purples and pinks—perfect for creating a moody, cool vibe.
  • Grass and Dandelion leaves – Put those weeds to work! Regular old lawn clippings can produce vibrant greens, especially when combined with the right mordant.
  • Avocado skins and pits – While known for their pinkish tones, avocado pits and skins can also give off a soft greenish hue when paired with the right mordant.

You can forage for local plants to create your own unique color palette. However, not all plants work equally well in dyeing, so it’s essential to experiment and learn which local plants yield the colors you want.

Printing with Plants: Creating Beautiful Patterns Naturally

If you’re looking to add some botanical flair to your fabrics, “printing” with flowers, leaves, and other plant materials is a simple and stunning way to make unique, nature-inspired patterns. Unlike traditional dyeing, which involves soaking the fabric in a dye bath, printing is more like creating a natural stamp or design on your fabric using the plants themselves. Here’s how to do it:

  1. Prepare Your Fabric –-Pre-mordant your fabric (if desired) to help the color bond better, though you can also experiment without mordanting for softer, more subtle prints. Lightly dampening the fabric can help the print absorb better.
  2. Arrange the Plant Materials – Lay your fabric flat and start arranging your plant materials directly on top of the fabric. You can either create a scattered, random pattern or a more structured design—think about leaves creating a repeating pattern or flowers placed in a corner for a more artistic touch.
  3. Print the Design – To transfer the plant’s color to the fabric, gently press down on the plant material. The easiest way to do this is to roll it up very tightly, then roll that into a coil, then tie it with twine. Bear in mind that thinner materials may bleed through, so you might want to place a piece of plastic wrap on top of the full length to prevent any unwanted transfer.
  4. Set the Design – Once the design is pressed, you can heat set the print by steaming the coil for 10 – 15 minutes. Be careful that the fabric never touches the water or else the colors will bleed. Cool and dry completely before unwrapping.
  5. Reveal Your Pattern – After the fabric has dried, carefully peel off the plant materials to reveal your print. The result will be a one-of-a-kind design with all the textures and colors of nature, from soft, leafy imprints to vibrant floral marks.

This method allows you to play with patterns, colors, and textures in a way that’s totally unique. You can experiment with different plants, layer prints, or even mix and match colors from different flowers or leaves. Whether you’re aiming for delicate, ethereal prints or bold, graphic designs, plant printing opens up endless possibilities for personalizing your fabrics with the beauty of nature.

Processing & Extracting Dyes

To extract color from plants, you’ll need to prepare the plant matter. For leaves, flowers, or bark, chopping or grinding the material into smaller pieces helps release more dye. Once the material is prepared, follow these steps:

  1. Place your plant material in a non-reactive pot and cover with water.
  2. Simmer for 1-2 hours (or longer for more intense color).
  3. Strain out the plant material using cheesecloth or a fine strainer.
  4. You now have a dye bath ready for your fiber.

Immersion Dyeing: Creating Deep, Saturated Colors

For the most vibrant and deep colors on cellulose fibers, immersion dyeing is the way to go. After your fiber is prepped and mordanted, immerse it in the dye bath. The longer you leave the fabric in the bath, the more intense the color will be. You can also layer colors for a more complex hue.

For a rich, deep color, try multiple rounds of immersion, allowing the fabric to dry between dips. This layering technique helps build up saturation without overwhelming the fiber.

Caring for Naturally Dyed Fibers

Once you’ve successfully dyed your fibers, proper care will ensure that the colors last. Natural dyes can be more susceptible to fading, so always wash your dyed items with care:

  • Hand wash in cold water with a mild detergent.
  • Avoid direct sunlight for long periods, as UV rays can fade natural dyes.
  • Air dry instead of using a dryer to protect the color.

Some colors may need periodic re-dyeing to keep their vibrancy over time.

Natural dyeing is a process that can be as rewarding as it is beautiful. By learning how to select the right fibers, extract colors from plants, and care for your creations, you’ll be able to craft stunning, eco-friendly textiles that are truly one of a kind. So gather your materials, test some local plants, and dive into the world of natural color—your next handmade project awaits!

Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Putting On Airs

When it comes to growing plants, especially in a temperamental, often extreme region like Central Texas, I’m still a complete novice. That’s why I’ve turned to the professionals to kick start my edible landscaping projects at home. I had the pleasure of meeting Fig Beard at a fig tree workshop hosted by the Central Texas Food Bank way back in April, and I couldn’t wait to share his expertise. Fig Beard’s passion for sustainable gardening and plant propagation is truly inspiring; his approach to growing plants is as rooted in practicality as it is in tradition.

In today’s guest post, Fig Beard dives into one of his favorite propagation techniques: air layering. Whether you’re looking to expand your fruit tree collection or simply want to learn how to clone your favorite shrubs, air layering is a reliable and rewarding method. In the following article, Fig will walk you through the steps of air layering, share tips for success, and explain why this technique can be especially effective for certain plants. Prepare to propagate with confidence!

Air Layering: A Fast and Reliable Way to Propagate Fruit Trees

Growing fruit trees at home is a wonderful way to enjoy fresh produce, cultivate natural beauty, and foster a deeper connection to the earth. When you propagate trees yourself, it’s even more rewarding!

Air layering is a propagation technique favored by many gardeners, allowing you to create new, fruit-bearing trees that retain the desirable qualities of the parent plant. This guide walks through the benefits of air layering, necessary materials, and step-by-step instructions so you can begin air layering in your own garden.

What is Air Layering?

Air layering is a method of propagating plants by encouraging a branch to grow roots while still attached to the tree. Once the branch develops its own root system, it can be cut off and planted independently. This allows you to create a genetically identical clone that bears the same fruit as the original tree.

Why Propagate with Air Layering?

Fast-Track to Reliable Fruit Varieties

Growing a fruit tree from seed can take many years, and trees grown from seed often don’t produce desirable fruit. Air layering allows you to clone a tree that you know has excellent fruit, giving you faster access to produce from an identical tree.

Higher Rates of Propagation Success

Air layering tends to be more successful than rooting cuttings because the branch remains connected to the tree’s resources while developing roots. This direct support encourages faster, healthier root growth.

Better for Hard-to-Root Varieties

Some trees are naturally harder to root from cuttings and may require extra nurturing. Air layering offers an alternative for these varieties, ensuring they develop robust roots with less stress and better overall success.

Best Fruit Trees for Air Layering  

Air layering is ideal for trees that are also able to take root from cuttings. The best candidates include:

  • Figs: Figs are among the most successful fruit trees to propagate with air layering.
  • Pomegranates: Pomegranates are strong candidates for air layering, but they may take more time to develop roots.
  • Citrus: Many types of citrus trees respond well to air layering.

Trees like apple, pear, persimmon, and stone fruit trees generally do not root from cuttings and similarly, they will not be good candidates for air layering.

Materials Needed for Air Layering 

  1. Sharp Knife or Pruning Shears: Essential for making precise cuts on the branch.
  2. Rooting Hormone (Optional): Helps speed up root development.
  3. Moist Medium: Sphagnum moss or peat moss works well; avoid heavy soils and soils that don’t retain moisture.
  4. Plastic Wrap or Plastic Bag: Encases the moss and retains moisture.
  5. Twine, Twist Ties, or Tape: For securing the wrap around the branch.
  6. Aluminum Foil: Shields the developing roots from sunlight.

Step-by-Step Guide to Air Layering 

  1. Select a Healthy Branch

Choose a branch that’s at least pencil-thick, about 12-18 inches long, and has fresh leaf growth. This will give you a strong, vigorous branch for propagation.

  1. Make a Cut

Using a sharp knife, make two shallow, circular cuts below a bud node and gently remove a 1-2 inch ring of bark to expose the cambium layer.

  1. Apply Rooting Hormone

If available, dust the exposed area with rooting hormone powder. This helps stimulate quicker, stronger root formation, especially for trees with tougher branches.

  1. Apply Moss and Wrap

Moisten the moss, wrap it around the cut section, and cover it with plastic wrap to retain moisture. The moss should be damp, not soaked, to prevent root rot.

  1. Secure the Wrap

Secure both ends of the plastic wrap with twine, twist ties, or tape. Then add aluminum foil around the plastic to protect the roots from direct sunlight.

  1. Monitor the Layer

Over the next few weeks, check the moss regularly to ensure it stays moist. Re-moisten it as needed. Root formation generally takes 4-8 weeks, depending on the tree type and growing conditions.

  1. Separate the Branch

Once you see a robust root system, it’s time to separate your new tree from the parent. Cut just below the root ball with sharp pruning shears.

Potting and Pruning for Best Results

Remove Most of the Leaves

Before potting, remove most of the leaves to reduce strain on the new roots. This ensures the young plant can support itself without excessive moisture loss.

Acclimate in a Pot

Carefully place the new plant in a pot with nutrient-rich soil and keep it in a shaded area. This step allows the roots to stabilize and develop further before being exposed to full sunlight. When the tree is well-rooted, it’s ready for its final planting spot and will eventually provide fruit as reliably as its parent.

Figbeard is a fruit tree specialist who consults and advises home growers and commercial orchards. Don’t miss his series of educational fruit tree workshops in Austin, Texas. If you haven’t followed Figbeard’s Instagram, you’re missing out on some gorgeous fruit in your feed!

Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Meant To Be Broken

Nothing is perfect, nothing is permanent, and nothing is fully complete. This is the definition of wabi-sabi, the wisdom that I try to live by, and also a fitting description of this blog. Now 18 years in, examples of each tenet can be found in abundance on these sprawling digital pages.

I’ve been blogging here for over half of my life. 18 years is a long time for anything. If we were married, I’d give my dear BitterSweet Blog the gift of porcelain, a delicate, beautiful material symbolizing the care and attention needed to nurture a long-lasting relationship. Of course, with my lack of coordination, I think we all know how this would end.

The number of dishes I’ve shattered over the course of my career could fill a potter’s graveyard. Every time I sweep, random bits and pieces of past plates are liable to surface, no matter when or where I last dropped one. Leaving such destruction in my wake feels like a curse, but in truth, is an opportunity.

Kintsugi, otherwise known as the art of gold mendery, is something I should have taken up long ago. When dishes break, they can be repaired. Not only that, but using gold to fix the seams, they become even more beautiful, valuable, and often stronger than before. It’s not a flaw, but a feature.

To make you own kintsugi, you don’t need to be rich in precious metals. My shortcut here is to take your broken dishware, make sure it’s very clean, and paint the rough edges with gold acrylic paint. Make sure you go over everything that is exposed and no longer shiny or with a finished, glazed edge. Let that dry, then go over it with a very thin layer of food-safe epoxy. Reattach the pieces, slowly and carefully, going in stages if needed to let other pieces set first. That’s all it takes.

This is best for dishware with clean breaks and minimal chipping or missing pieces. There are other approaches that use additional epoxy to fill more substantial gaps, or replace them with matching pieces from similar dishware, but that’s simply above my pay grade. You’ll want to hand wash the mended ceramics to be safe, moving forward.

Is it perfect? Absolutely not. That’s the beauty of it. Cheers, to another 18 years of breaking things and putting them back together, better than ever.

Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments

Dashboard Cookie Confessional

Ever since I was a little kid, it’s something I wanted to do. Young and naive, I couldn’t wait to grow up to have such freedom and access. Now that I’m an adult, I’m finally making my inner child proud: I baked cookies inside my car.

As temperatures began to exceed 100℉ on a regular basis, I knew this was my time to shine. Finally, I have my own car, live in an environment that’s somewhere between the depths of hell and the surface of the sun, and am still crazy enough to do it. If you’ve always wanted to open up your car door and step into your own mobile oven, here’s what you need to know.

Use Protection

  • Metal baking sheets are the best conductors of heat, but that goes both ways. Place a kitchen towel, pot holder, or trivet underneath so it doesn’t melt or burn the interior of your car.
  • Line the baking sheet with parchment paper to prevent the cookies from sticking. A silicone baking mat will absorb too much heat to be effective, and aluminum will reflect too much and cause the edges to get too crispy.
  • Likewise, use a pot holder whenever moving the sheet because it will be hot.

Placement and Timing Are Important

  • Make sure you park your car in direct sun to maximize those UV rays.
  • Start baking when the sun is at its peak; usually around noon or 1:00pm.
  • While your cookies will bake in any position, I found it was most effective to place the baking sheet directly on the dashboard, as close to the windshield as possible. Barring that, the next best place is the trunk, as long as you have a glass window in back too.

Turn Up The Heat

  • Keep the windows rolled up and the doors closed. Any time you open them or break the seal, you’re letting the heat drop.
  • It needs to be at least 95℉ (35°C)outside to attempt this with any level of success.
  • Keep a thermometer inside your car to monitor the temperature, and place it somewhere that you can see it without getting into the car.
  • The interior needs to reach at least 160℉ (71°C) to “bake” effectively.
  • Cooking time will vary, since this isn’t a regulated heat source. Expect it take anywhere from 2 – 5 hours for the cookies to set. They may not brown as much as you’d normally expect, but should be firm enough to pick up and no longer shiny on top.

Recipe For Success

  • While any recipe can technically work, simple drop cookies are your best bet, since they’re more forgiving with variable times and temperatures. A cookie with a high butter to flour ratio is more likely to end up greasy, which means that chewy wins the battle over crunchy for this round.
  • Size does matter. My usual cookies use about 1/4 cup of dough, which took roughly 3 hours to bake while it was 104 degrees outside. You can expedite the process by making smaller cookies, especially if it’s not as hot in your neck of the woods.
  • Vegans have the added benefit of being able to eat semi-baked or even raw cookies without fear. Look ma, no raw eggs! That means every attempt is always successful, with or without an excessive heat warning in effect.

The beauty of car-baked cookies is that you’re using a completely renewable, entirely free energy source while saving electricity inside your home! No need to blast the AC after cranking up the oven, which can add up quickly.

The only thing better than sinking your teeth into warm, gooey, homemade cookies on a hot summer day is getting to enjoy that freshly baked aroma for weeks to come. Hope you don’t drive hungry!

Hannah (BitterSweet)9 Comments

You Brew You

Bleary-eyed and sleep-deprived, I stumble into the kitchen and blindly rummage around for sustenance. Sheer muscle memory propels me forward before my brain has fully activated, recharged and ready to begin processing a new day. Coffee is the switch that flips it on, that starts the cycle anew, for me and so many millions, if not billions of other sleepyheads across the globe. How you choose to brew says a lot of about culture, economics, habits, and personal taste, but more attention is paid to the beans than the actual mechanics of making a cuppa.

Respectably so, for all their natural nuances, slick brands and designer packages notwithstanding; the bean alone is a weighty decision to contemplate when the need for caffeine overrules all other sensible demands. Even before roasting, green coffee beans carry the potential for flavor, aroma, and energy, waiting to be unlocked by heat and time. That’s especially true when especially when handled with care on something like an Aillio Roaster.

Coffee beans in a cup

Let’s take a step back for a moment to appreciate the method of making coffee itself. Do you use an electric, automatic drip coffee maker like most Americans? One of those ubiquitous plastic models always found in attendance at moving sales year round? Maybe you have more than one, because it never hurts to have a backup. Cheap, easy, accessible, reliable; I’m there with you, friends. There’s nothing wrong with the effortless instant gratification of push-button service, delivering a hot cup of coffee on demand, no questions asked.

When it comes to manual brewing methods, you take control back into your hands, quite literally.

Pour Over (Chemex, Hario V60, Kalita Wave, Clever): Functioning almost exactly like a standard drip machine without the buttons or whistles, there are a number of popular variations on the concept but it all boils down to pouring hot water over grounds, slowly allowing the brewed liquid to run down into a waiting glass below. It takes patience and a steady hand, but no real skill since gravity does all the hard work. Use a medium grind to extract the brighter, lighter, more floral flavor notes without any hint of bitterness. Different models have their own uniquely patterned ridges built in, which will each affect the rate of drainage differently and produce surprisingly distinctive results. Which is “best” is just a matter of preference, so experiment a bit to find what tastes just right to your palate.

Plunger (French Press, AeroPress): Most people are familiar with the French press due to it’s accessibility and wide availability. Simply add grounds, water, steep, and plunge. There are no disposable filters to trifle with and no waste as a result. Detractors grouse about gritty brews or long steeping times, but a properly sealed, well-built device shouldn’t give you any trouble. Because the beans have full contact with the hot water for the entire time, this approach extracts the full gamut of flavors locked within, as well as the most antioxidants and caffeine. Use a coarse ground to enjoy the most robust results in a traditional French press, but fine for an AeroPress, which does use filters to catch any residual sediment.

Cupping Brewer (Rattleware): Uncommon outside of serious barista circles, it doesn’t get much simpler in concept, or more complex in flavor. Grounds and water combine for extended brew times, 10 minutes and beyond, to get every element of the bean to come forward. Grounds float toward the surface, to be skimmed off with a spoon before sipping. Though impractical for multiple servings, it’s an ideal way to truly appreciate a fresh brew with zero waste. Use a very coarse grind and be prepared to stop drinking before you reach the bottom, since most will settle and remain there. It’s impossible to avoid consuming at least some of the sediment, so this stuff is like rocket fuel.

There’s also the stove top moka pot, although I’d argue that this begins to skew into a more hands-off realm where the device does most of the heavy lifting. In fact, there are electric versions available, which always pull in top recommendations from experts, so I don’t trifle with the low tech toys. Siphons, using vacuum pressure to force hot water through coffee grounds, could also fall under this distinction, but they’re more of a novelty than realistic appliance for the average home brewer. Plus, the cost for entry is rather steep- No pun intended.

Across the board, general guidelines for success start with using 60 grams of coffee for every 1 quart of water (yes, you really should weigh it!) and water heated to 195 – 205 degrees Fahrenheit, ideally in a goose neck kettle for easy maneuvering.

How do you do your brew? There’s no one perfect approach, which is a true gift for coffee lovers. Go outside your comfort zone and try something new. You may just discover a whole new world of flavors locked within the same beans you already love, and only thought you knew.

Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments