Tag: topping

Vegan Anchovies Are No Fish Story

Anchovies are a polarizing ingredient. The little silver fish are as good as gold by some eaters, and worse than rotting garbage on a hot summer’s day to others. If you’re vegan, obviously that’s a nonstarter, but I’d like to solve that dilemma and win over the haters all in one bite. Plant-based anchovies are here at last.

Vegan Anchovies: An Upstream Battle

The lack of fish-free proteins has long been the thorn in my side, as a former (short lived) pescatarian. Lagging behind all manner of plant-based innovations from cheese to beef, it’s still rare to find products that fit the bill or recipes that come close to the genuine article. Anchovies, perhaps unsurprisingly, are completely absent from that conversation. Inspired by a friend who’s a fervent fan of the canned sea critters, I set out to create my own oily fish from eggplant.

Eggplant, believe it or not, has the perfect buttery, melt-in-your-mouth texture once brined and marinated. Essentially the sponge of the vegetable kingdom, they soak in all the bold, umami, salty flavors you need and crave in conventional anchovies. Sugimoto Shiitake Mushroom Powder is the key to success, contributing that intense savory, meaty, faintly earthy flavor taste, without imparting an overtly mushroom-y character. Working in concert with the oceanic essence of kombu seaweed, tart capers, and sharp white vinegar, the results are intense, rich, and briny in all the best ways.

In Praise of Eggplant Anchovies

Anchovies, like shiitake, are champions of umami, the savory “fifth taste” that adds depth and richness to food. A single anchovy can elevate a dish from bland to “wow” by adding complexity in an instant. A little bit goes a long way, like tiny flavor bombs ready to detonate upon impact. They’re the secret ingredient in Caesar salad dressing, a base for the fragrant fish sauces of Southeast Asia, and the magic touch in Italian puttanesca sauce.

Tips For Success

Before anyone asks: No, you can’t reduce the salt. No, you can’t remove the oil.

  • While the eggplant strips do get a quick rinse, they’re still very salty, quite like the ocean. They’re essentially pickled before being marinated, so consider how salty your favorite pickles are before judging too harshly.
  • Officially categorized as an “oily fish,” we need to add our own healthy fats here to compete. This contributes to the sensation known as kokumi or “rich taste,” which works together with our beloved shiitake’s umami to create the most compelling, crave-worthy experience.
  • Don’t rush the process; letting the raw, salted eggplant sit for hours slowly draws out bitterness and softens the flesh. Since it barely gets heated through, most of the tenderizing happens here.

Serving Suggestions

Once you have them at your disposal, you’ll find endless options for enjoying your homemade anchovies.

  • Pizza: Name a more iconic combo. Anchovies make the melted cheese seem richer, the crust crisper by contrast, and the tomato sauce more robust. Before you scoff at this as an American bastardization, you should know that they’re a common topping in Italy, especially in southern regions.
  • Bruschetta: Top toasted bread with a drizzle of olive oil, chopped tomatoes, fresh herbs, and a whole vegan anchovy fillet. Simple, elegant, and bursting with flavor, you could easy serve this at a party with great fanfare, too.

  • Salad: Caesar is the obvious choice, but any leafy green side that needs a bit more oomph could benefit from some chopped vegan anchovies. If you’re serving someone with textural aversions, simply blend them into the dressing instead.
  • Pasta: Toss your favorite noodle with red sauce, pesto, alfredo; any sauce goes! Whole vegan anchovies work well with longer pasta like spaghetti and fettuccine, but you might want to chop them when using shorter shapes.
  • Butter: Make dairy-free compound butter with eggplant anchovy puree and fresh herbs. Slather it on bread, let it melt into mashed potatoes, and use it to finish meatless steaks.

Start thinking about them like you would olives. Use sparingly, but frequently, for maximum satisfaction.

Eggplant, Nightshade of the Sea

Perhaps eggplant anchovies are the plant-based alternative that no one asked for, but I promise they’ll become an irreplaceable staple in your kitchen, too. Just imagine the look on a seafood lover’s face when you unveil a dish bursting with the briny, rich, savory depth they crave, made entirely with plant-based provisions. Eggplant anchovies are your secret weapon, a simple substitution that shatters the stereotype of vegan food being bland. They not only add umami magic but open a world of culinary possibilities. You’ll never be able to look at the humble nightshade the same way again.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Chut The Front Door

Chutney may seem like a bit player; an afterthought or nonessential inclusion in a large array of dishes, but in actuality, it’s the critical thread that ties a meal together. Derived from the Hindi word chatni, which literally means “to eat with appetite,” chutney is as diverse as the panoply of condiments found in any given home.

Cilantro chutney, coconut chutney, and tamarind chutney are some of the most popular, especially in the US, but why stop there when we have so many other flavors, and such ample umami, at our disposal? Mushroom chutney, made with supple Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms, is the all-purpose meal starter and finisher that’s indispensable in my kitchen.

Mushroom chutney, while less common, certainly isn’t unheard of. The power of a well-crafted chutney is how it can combine sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and spicy into one small spoonful. Intense and powerful, that quality is only amplified when you add Sugimoto shiitake into the mix.

What Is Chutney?

Defining chutney is akin to defining salsa. They can be sweet or sour, hot or mild, made from fruits and/or vegetables, from fresh produce or dried, blended smooth or left chunky, and the options go on. Chutney is a boundless concept with endless combinations and permutations that can be further modified to personal preferences.

I’ve always seen western-style chutney as being somewhat related to Italian agrodolce. Intensely flavorful with a powerful contrast between vinegar and sugar, they’re cooked down like jam, ideal for preserving an excess of any perishable produce. In truth, chutney is anything that you make of it, entirely flexible and customizable to personal preferences.

What Makes Mushroom Chutney Special?

Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms are so powerfully aromatic and flavorful, just a little bit goes a long way. Thus, a little spoonful of mushroom chutney can light up a whole dish in an instant. Best of all, while I adore using the thick, meaty Donko shiitake caps, it’s an ideal opportunity for using up any extra stems you may have been saving from previous recipes. The texture itself can be kept coarse or blended further; it’s effortless to smooth out the rough edges of any stems with a finer grind.

Redolent of bright, punchy ginger and bolstered by toasted cumin and mustard seeds, every bite is a new adventure. Tender chunks of sweet apple soften the acidity of tart yet fruity sherry vinegar and balance out the overall flavor. Effortlessly livening up new recipes or leftovers with ease, the combination is complex, mildly spicy, and altogether invigorating.

How To Serve Mushroom Chutney

Although it’s most frequently seen as a condiment, chutney can provide a substantial portion of a meal. Personally, I see different preparations as being better suited to smoother or chunkier textures.

Chunky Chutney:

With big, meaty pieces to really sink your teeth into, this version is best used as a topping, relish, or side. Consider adding it to…

Smooth Chutney:

Kept thick, smoother chutney is perfect for spreading, while adding more liquid to make it pourable opens up a whole new world of opportunities. Try using this one as…

  • Sandwich spread
  • Dip with chips, papadum, or samosa
  • Salad dressing
  • Sauce for cauliflower steaks or plant protein
  • Base for soup
  • Gravy over mashed potatoes
  • Marinade for tofu, tempeh, or seitan

Variations and Substitutions

Don’t fret if some of these ingredients seem out of reach or unappealing. Everything is up for debate, easily swapped and modified to suit your specific tastes.

  • Vinegar is one of the most important ingredients in successful chutney-making. I love the nuanced acidity of sherry vinegar, which harmonizes beautifully with the apples and sugar. If we’re being honest though, absolutely any acidic liquid will do. That means apple cider vinegar, white wine vinegar, rice vinegar, coconut vinegar, lemon juice, lime juice, grapefruit juice, and more are all excellent candidates. Use what you’ve got or play around with new options to keep things fresh.
  • Sugar is key for taming the harsher notes of all that acid. Brown sugar is my favorite for its warm molasses flavor, but that’s also completely adaptable. An equal amount of coconut sugar or date sugar can create a similar sensation with a lower glycemic index, while a few drops of liquid stevia or monk fruit can help make it safe for people who need to cut back on added sugars altogether.
  • Spices make up the heart and soul of any good chutney. Whole spices are generally preferable to ground, for their more intense flavor and added texture. If you only have ground, though, it can certainly work in a pinch. Just reduce the measure to about half of what’s called for when using whole spices, knowing you can always add more later as needed.

Mushroom chutney, featuring the umami superstar known as Sugimoto shiitake, is where tradition meets innovation. It turns a simple, earthy ingredient into a flavorful powerhouse that can elevate your cooking game.

The next time you’re in the kitchen, give this savory sensation a try. Whether you’re an experienced chef or just starting out, shiitake mushroom chutney promises a burst of flavors in every bite. Your taste buds will appreciate the adventure, and anyone else lucky enough to get a taste will be impressed with your elevated culinary acumen.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)1 Comment

Macha, Macha, Wo/Man

I distinctly remember my first encounter with salsa macha because it was a completely confounding experience. Staring at this strange, violently red jar of oily seeds, it was introduced to me as “seed salsa.” Up to that point, “salsa” had only been used to describe mixtures of finely minced vegetables, sometimes fruits, accompanying Mexican food. Usually tomato-based, fresh and punchy, I couldn’t connect the dots between that condiment and this one.

Taking the tiniest spoonful to test the waters, I watched rivulets of glistening toasted seeds ooze down my plate, soaking into everything it touched. One bite, and I was hooked. Instantly regretting that timid serving, I bellied up to the bar again and again, dousing my entire meal until my lips tingled and my nose turned red from the heat. It’s the good kind of pain the unlocks all sorts of endorphins, creating an undeniably addictive experience.

The allure owes something about the combination of textures and tastes, with toothsome, crunchy seeds tumbled together in this slick miasma of fiery, nutty, tangy oil. It doesn’t sound like it should work on paper, but it exceeds all expectations in real life. Suspend doubt long enough to give it a try, stop trying to put it to words; you’ll understand in an instant.

What is salsa macha?

Consider it Mexican chili crisp; spicy, savory, and impossibly addictive. Salsa macha is an oil-based condiment that goes with just about everything. It was born in the Mexican states of Veracruz and Oaxaca. As one might guess, the name is derived from the feminine version of “macho,” resulting in gender ambiguity, and its base recipe is ripe for tweaking.

Naturally, I had to take my rendition in a completely inauthentic direction that most people would say has gone off the rails. Sorry, not sorry. It all started with an extra bottle of everything bagel seasoning, when I realized that half the ingredients I needed were all neatly bundled together within. Why not take that idea and run with it? Thus, Everything Bagel Salsa Macha was born.

Most salsa macha recipes are at least slightly blended after cooking, but I wanted mine totally chunky and extra crunchy. You could always pulse the mixture briefly in the food processor to break it down a bit, or completely puree it for a smoother sauce. Make it your own! The only rules for salsa macha is that it must contain chilies, seeds, nuts, and oil. Everything else is up for interpretation.

How can you use salsa macha?

Basically, anything edible is a viable canvas for this chunky, seedy salsa. A few of my favorites and top suggestions for this particular variation include:

  • Bagel with cream cheese
  • Avocado toast
  • Tofu scramble
  • Hummus
  • Pizza
  • Pasta
  • Rice pilaf
  • Grilled or roasted vegetables

Like some of the best things in life, the flavors in salsa macha continue to develop and deepen over time. It’s fantastic right away, enjoyed while still warm, but continues to improve over the coming days. Don’t try to keep it too long, though; the garlic and seeds prevent it from keeping longer than 1 – 2 weeks in the fridge without turning rancid. Of course, that deadline is unlikely to pose a problem. I can barely keep a jar around for more than three days.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Egghead

Did you know that eggs really do grow on trees? Not chicken eggs like most would associate with the word, but eggfruit, otherwise known as canistel, could be considered the original plant-based egg. Still relatively unknown beyond tropical climates, these unique teardrop-shaped drupes originated in Central America and have spread to the United States via Florida, Hawaii, and Southern California. Each one is about the size of a fist, glowing with a brilliant sunshine-yellow color inside and out. Cut through the thin skin to reveal a hard pit (or two; be careful with your teeth!) much like that of an avocado, surrounded by creamy, slightly crumbly flesh with a downright uncanny resemblance to hard boiled egg yolks.

Eggfruit do not, however, taste like eggs. The flavor is neutral, ranging from musky squash to candied sweet potato. Though naturally low in fat, their unctuous texture can become cloying after more than a few spoonfuls. If you’ve never had the egg of the land before, it’s certainly a strange experience. There’s nothing else quite like it in the animal or vegetable kingdom.

That said, the temptation to draw comparisons to conventional eggs is irresistible. Such gorgeous golden meat, rich in beta-carotene, is good for more than just boosting eyesight and immunity. Eggfruit are ideal for baking since they retain their dense, thick texture, working quite a bit like- you guessed it- eggs. That means pumpkin pies, cheesecakes, ice cream, and even eggnog are quite delicious with this genuine plant-based swap.

When I got my hands on eggfruit for the first time, I was but a young pup, eating my way through Hawaii. It’s sadly been out of reach since returning to the mainland, but as global distribution continues to improve, I remain hopeful that more people will be fortunate enough to try such unique produce for themselves, too. While my means for cooking out there were limited, it sure didn’t stop me from playing around in the kitchen. After a few strange experiments, I landed on an extraordinary doppelganger for lemon curd.

Smooth, spreadable or spoonable like custard, the rich mixture is an ideal introduction to eggfruit for the uninitiated. You can schmear it over toast, stuff it inside of cupcakes, cookies, or French toast, drizzle it over pound cake, or just eat it with a spoon.

Want to switch it up?

  • Just like traditional curd, you can use any other citrus you prefer, such as lime, grapefruit, orange, or a combination of your favorites.
  • Add up to 1/2 cup of seedless fruit puree, like strawberry, raspberry, or peach for more fun, seasonal twists.
  • If you don’t have a microwave, you can cook the curd over the stove in a medium saucepan. Just stir gently and continuously so it doesn’t stick or burn on the bottom.

If you can, stock up on eggfruit whenever you see them, since they’ll go fast once you taste just how versatile they are. You’ll typically find unripe eggfruit in the store that’s still hard and slightly green. Let it sit on the counter to ripen; it could take as long as 10 – 14 days, so be patient! Unripe eggfruit is incredibly astringent and bitter; not good eats. It should be soft but not mushy, yielding easily to a knife when it’s ready. Then, it can be stored whole for 1 – 2 months in the fridge, or mashed and frozen for 6 – 8 months.

Don’t get caught with egg on your face. Eggfruit is always in good taste.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments