In The Limelight

Mummified fruit is usually the last thing you want to see when you open up your pantry, but dried limes challenge those notions of common food storage. Hard as walnut shells, sometimes black as ink and other times a dusty grey, these oversized marbles conceal a world of flavor inside that forbidding exterior.

What Are Dried Limes?

Dried limes, sometimes called “dried lemons,” are better known as limu amani or noomi basra due to their Iranian and Iraqi origins. An essential ingredient in Middle Eastern cooking, somehow they’ve failed to make the leap overseas to widespread popularity. A positive buzz is growing in large part thanks to one Yotam Ottolenghi ceaseless singing their praises, which means they’re slowly infiltrating specialty markets and boutique grocery stores abroad. Thankfully, we have the internet to fill the gaps, where you can readily purchase both whole and powdered dried limes.

Simply sun-dried until bereft of any moisture, they’re effectively preserved like any other whole spices. To use them, simply toss them into soups or stews whole, then fish them out like spent bay leaves when you’re done cooking. Powdered, they can be blended into other spice mixtures, such as Baharat.

What Do Dried Limes Taste Like?

Everyone knows what a fresh lime tastes like; tart, tangy, fruit, and sightly floral, with just a slight hint of sweetness. Now, take that and remove the sweetness, substituting a more earthy, funky, sometimes smoky flavor, along with a stronger acidic bite like sour candies, and you’ll understand the essence of dried limes. The longer they’re stewed, the more intense and bitter the flavor becomes.

Cooking With Dried Limes

Ghormeh Sabzi and Fesenjan are two top dishes that call for dried limes, though any slow-simmered dish is well suited for a dried lime infusion. They can be added to the water when cooking rice or brines for making pickles. Dried lime tea is also excellent for settling the stomach, though that often involves the leaves, too.

The easiest way to get started with dried limes, in my opinion, is to stick with soup. Chicken soup with rice is a beloved savory staple the world over, so it’s easy to enjoy a new twist on the classic. Persian Chicken and Rice Soup adds a handful of chickpeas and of course, dried limes for some extra sour power. It’s the kind of flavor combination that will take off the chill, beat any cold, and generally comfort the hungry in any condition.

My version uses soy curls instead of poultry, of course, which also rehydrate in a snap. You can pretty much make this meal entirely from pantry staples on the fly, even when the fridge is otherwise bare.

Those who crave the bracing acidic bite of fresh citrus but sometimes neglect to stock their produce bin would be wise to invest in a surplus of these dried diamonds. Just like salt and pepper, you’ll find that they go with everything, and no dish is quite complete without that subtle seasoning. Trust me, you can expect to see a whole lot more instances of dried limes in my recipes from here on out.

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Soup Season

“Soup season” is both deeply appealing and bothersome as a concept. As the chill of autumn descends and winter’s frosty breath blows in, there’s nothing quite like the warm embrace of a hearty bowl of piping hot soup. This is the “soup season” that captivates the imagination of hungry comfort-seekers everywhere, and yet, there are so many other days when soup is exactly what the moment calls for. What about those balmy spring days that call for light, fresh veggie blends? What about hot summer evenings when a crisp, chilled gazpacho is the only thing that can truly take the edge off?

Fortunately, I’m not alone in my love of soups all year round. Nava Atlas, a seasoned master of plant-based cuisine, has crafted a timeless tome to all things broth-based in her latest masterpiece, Vegan Soups and Stews for All Seasons.

As a long-time fan, friend, and co-conspirator, my expectations are always high and still always exceeded. Having photographed the bulk of the book, I can say with complete confidence that there’s not a dud to be found in these pages, featuring over 120 recipes.

Spanish Vegetable Stew (Menestra de Verduras)

From the vibrant freshness of spring to the comforting warmth of winter, each section of the book is a celebration of nature’s bounty. Atlas effortlessly guides readers through a bounty of bold flavors, ensuring that every soup and stew is a reflection of the season’s best assets. Lemony Spinach Orzo Soup is a fresh tribute to nature’s renewal come spring, while robust Curried Red Lentil Soup with Sweet Potatoes and Greens warms the soul while snow piles up outside. The recipes are not just a collection of instructions but rather a narrative that tells the story of each season through a bowl of vibrant, homemade soup.

Tangy Cold Potato Spinach Soup

What sets Nava’s work apart is her ability to create dishes that are accessible yet elevated, using simple techniques that accentuate basic staples. Novice cooks will appreciate the detailed instructions and ingredient explanations, while seasoned chefs will revel in the opportunity to experiment with unique flavor profiles. Herbs and spices draw inspiration from global influence, while using whole foods to create dishes that are both health-conscious and indulgent.

Sweet and Sour Cabbage Soup

Vegan Soups and Stews for All Seasons is more than just a compilation of assorted recipes; it’s a perennial companion to weather any cravings. Nava Atlas has once again proven that plant-based cooking is not just a trend but a timeless celebration of flavors. Whether you’re a deep-rooted vegan or a curious omnivore, this cookbook deserves a spot on your shelf for its creativity, accessibility, and the sheer joy it brings to the art of soup-making.

Hearty Winter Root Vegetable Stew

Naturally, soup is best when shared, so I’m very happy to give away two copies of the book, personalized and signed by Nava herself! To enter, leave me a comment below about your favorite soup right now. Is it something you make, enjoy at a restaurant, buy from the store? There’s no soup shame here! Don’t forget to come back and fill out the entry form below to log your submission, and unlock a number of additional methods to rack up extra entries. Good luck!

Vegan Soups and Stews for All Seasons by Nava Atlas

Luck And Spice For The New Year

Good morning, rise and shine, and welcome, 2024! Let’s greet this shiny new year with a warm welcome. To that end, I can think of nothing better than the inviting aroma of slowly simmered curry wafting from the kitchen. Even if you partied hard last night, I promise this is the best way to nurse a hangover and ease into the day.

What’s Your Favorite Kind of Curry?

Before we even talk about heat levels, there’s so much to consider. Do you want it saucy or dry? Full of veggies or protein-centric? Rich or lean? There are no wrong answers, aside from claiming indifference overall. Given that curry can be anything with a broad palate of spices, it’s maddening to see the same predictable options get all the attention. Why is there so little love for Nepalese curry?

Nepalese Vs Indian Curry

It’s natural to compare Nepalese to Indian curries since they’re very similar in many ways. Both tend to favor turmeric for a golden glow and serve rice or flatbread to soak it all in, but there are some key differences that set them apart. Generally speaking:

  • Indian curries tend to be richer, infused with full-fat coconut milk or cream, while Nepalese curries stick with water or broth.
  • Sweet additions like jaggery, raisins, or plain sugar are popular for rounding out the sharp spices of Indian curries, but Nepalese does without.
  • Nepalese curries rarely showcase thick sauces, sticking with either dry stir fried curry dishes or curry soups.

What is Aloo Bodi Tama?

Perhaps you recognize the word “aloo” as “potato,” from many beloved Indian dishes such as aloo chaat or aloo gobi. For the rest of it, “bodi” means “black eyed peas” and “tama” means “bamboo shoots.” Thus, we end up with a naturally plant-based soup that’s soup that’s hot, tangy, and nutritionally balanced.

How To Serve Aloo Bodi Tama

There’s no need to fuss over an elaborate spread to round out your meal; this is a perfect one-pot entree, with all the protein, fiber, and flavor you need. You could pair it with some cooked rice, flatbread, or any other whole grains if you’d like to make it more substantial or stretch it even further. It’s especially great for anyone on a tight budget since it’s made of very affordable, basic staples to begin with.

Start Your Year With Lucky Black Eyed Peas

While it’s more traditional to enjoy hoppin’ John to assure a fortuitous new year ahead, particularly when it comes to your financial future, I’d like to spice up that superstition this time around. Think of the golden turmeric-infused broth as a symbol of even greater wealth, especially when it comes to the rich flavors in every spoonful.

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Hot Autumn, Cold Soups

Autumn looks different than it used to. It feels, smells, and yes, tastes different, too. If you’ve set foot outside in the past decade to compare, no matter where in the world, you know what I mean. My perception is biased from cooler childhood memories on the east coast, but there’s more to it than just living in Texas as an adult. 90 to 100 degree highs are still normal for early October, with any remaining leaves bleached and sun burnt before they ever had a chance to turn yellow, amber, or red.

I don’t miss the cold and bitter winds, the grey skies and damp earth; if this is the price I pay, so be it. When confronted with autumnal revelers in other parts of the country celebrating the changing weather, I’m not envious. “Soup season!”, they cry, steaming bowls filled to the brim. “Sure is,” I’ll respond, “because soup is always in season, and gazpacho would really hit the spot right about now!”

Soup For Every Season

I laughed it off for a bit, but the thought kept rattling around in my head. Gazpacho really would be lovely today, if only tomatoes weren’t past their prime. Why can’t we bridge the gap with a more seasonal approach?

Pumpkinundation is here again, and thanks to the marvel of modern food production, canned pumpkin is always on the shelf. Even while the heat is still on, it’s a reliable staple to make the creamy chilled base with ease. Rich and satisfying, it takes this no-cook classic to a whole new level.

Swaps and Substitutions

Pumpkin isn’t the only orange squash on the market that deserves your attention. You can easily swap in a wide range of roasted or steamed squash to keep the flavor fresh well into winter. Consider one or more of the following to replace the canned pumpkin puree:

For a different twist, consider more hardy root vegetables, such as:

Blended Gazpacho for Blended Seasons

Each spoonful of pumpkin gazpacho speaks clearly of the arrival of fall, while adapting to the reality of climate change during this transitional time of year. The bright, refreshing sensations of summer mingle with the more earthy, herbaceous notes of autumn. It’s a homage of nature’s bounty, fickleness, and resilience.

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Noodles You Should Know: Thukpa

Pronounced with a percussive rhythm akin to a drum, or perhaps a steady heartbeat, thukpa lives up to its name. Granted, “thukpa” is simply the generic Tibetan word for any soup or stew with noodles, which doesn’t exactly inspire great poetry. Dig a little deeper and you’ll learn that “thuk” means “heart.” This understanding clearly speaks to how deeply a bowlful of the stuff can restore the spirit, beyond merely satisfying basic bodily hunger. Warming the eater’s very heart, right down to the core, in brutally cold winters and times of need, it’s the original soup for the soul.

Those noodles, however, are the real star of the show, sometimes dwarfing the liquid to such a small component of the dish, you’d think it was just a brothy sauce. Many different variations exist, changing ratios and ingredients across cultural boundaries, but the basics remain the same: Noodles, soup, and vegetables.

My personal favorite is the Nepalese version, which is often naturally vegetarian and has a spicier flavor profile. Not many vegetables can thrive in the harsh tundra, so inclusions remain basic: cabbage, onions, carrots, and radishes are the prevailing options. Modern versions take advantage of greater access to worldwide markets, adding everything from bell peppers to tomatoes to green peas, and relish the opportunity to finish each bowl with fresh herbs like cilantro and scallions.

Types of Thukpa

As more of an umbrella term than the definition of a single dish, thukpa include many different, distinctive combinations of noodles and soups.

  • Thenthuk: A Tibetan soup with hand-pulled flat noodles.
  • Gyathuk: A Chinese-fusion soup featuring round chow mein noodles, often with chicken or pork.
  • Pathug or Thugpa: A Tibetan variant with hand-rolled, pinched noodles that are more like dumplings or gnocchi in texture.

Other spellings and pronunciations include thuppa, thuggpa, and drethug. Occasionally you’ll come across shortcut recipes that call for rice noodles, but this is another contemporary twist that purists would disqualify.

How To Make Thukpa

There’s no wrong way to make thukpa, just different approaches based on your needs and wants.

Any vegetable is fair game, in any quantity you want, which is also true of spices. Indian versions will include garam masala as a quick flavor boost, leaning on cumin for more body. It’s always a treat with homemade noodles, but there’s no shame in using regular spaghetti or fettuccine as a shortcut.

Thukpa is a food born of strife, created by migrants dispersed throughout the Himalayas to seek refuge as they forged new lives in Sikim, Darjeeling, Arunachal Pradesh, Nepal, and Bhutan, transforming the dish at every turn. It serves a need, both physical and emotional, while weaving together communities. It embodies the warmth of togetherness, reminding us that food has the power to forge connections beyond borders.

Avocado Toast Millionaire

Given the choice between avocado toast and home ownership, you can probably guess which one is more closely aligned to my goals. While it would certainly be nice to set down roots, or at least stop throwing money away on monthly rent, there’s nothing that could convince me to give up this brunch staple. What can I say? I’ve got expensive tastes.

Luckily, avocados often go on sale here for absurdly low prices. When they hit 29 cents apiece, you’d better believe I’m stocking up. Don’t try to tell me that there’s a limit to “stocking” avocados, those highly perishable fruits that go from ripe to rotten in a minute. Powerless in the face of a bargain, I’ll inevitably end up lining my kitchen counters with the surplus, calculating how many lavish toasts I can fit in before they all rot in place.

What To Do with Too Many Avocados

Even if you’re not dealing with such excess, this idea is still a great trick to keep in your back pocket for those avocados that simply get overripe, aren’t the most beautiful, or are otherwise unfit for slicing. Transforming it into cool, refreshing Avocado Toast Soup makes it a respectable entree for any meal. The base is an adaptation of my garlic bread soup from Real Food, Really Fast, enriched with gorgeous green avocados for a perfectly hipster twist. Crunchy croutons lavish the top to give it a satisfying crunch, just like the classic open-faced sandwich.

Topping Ideas and Serving Suggestions

Simplicity is beautiful, but there’s always room for more flavorful garnishes. Think of your favorite avocado toast toppings and incorporate those to taste. A few front runners include:

As a standalone dish, it’s already a nicely balanced and well-rounded brunch or light lunch. For a more substantial meal, a plate of roast vegetables or a hearty kale salad would be a welcome addition.

More Avocado Recipes to Indulge In

If you’re with me on team avocado, here are more avocado-rich recipes you’ll love:

I’d like to believe that one can have their avocado toast and financial security, too. If there was ever a way to do it, this easy, breezy, creamy soup must be part of the solution.

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