Tag: recipe

Naan-Stop

In a battle royal of flatbreads, I’d put money on naan coming out on top. Plush, buttery, and lightly charred on the outside, this simple staple is now one of the most integral parts of Indian cuisine known around the world. Garlic naan eclipses all other variants for obvious reasons, but an incredibly diverse and largely unsung range of unique naan breads exist beyond those basics. There’s keema naan, cheese naan, and my latest obsession, kashmiri naan.

What Is Kashmiri Naan?

Kashmiri naan breaks the mold of its savory siblings. Masterfully blending elements both sweet and savory, no two bites are the same, nor would you want them to be. It starts with the same pillow-soft, chewy dough we all know and love, stuffing it to the brim with dried fruits and nuts. Bursts of tart, rich, toasted notes punctuate each morsel, creating an irresistible flavor and textural contrast.

Not one content to leave things well enough alone, I’d like to propose pushing that experience even further with an umami assist from Sugimoto Shiitake. Adding an aromatic, earthy quality that rounds out the full bouquet of seasonings, they simultaneously amplify the intensity of those tart cherries, caramel-like dates and raisins, and nutty cashews and almonds. Best of all, this approach helps prevent food waste, since it’s an excellent opportunity to make use of the stems.

Breads Rising From the Himalayas

Kashmiri naan’s history is as rich as its flavor. While the word “naan” itself comes from the Persian word for “bread,” the distinctive variation in the spotlight today flourishes in the Kashmir region, nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas. Kashmir, a land known for its abundance of fruits and nuts, naturally incorporated these treasures into its breads. This innovation not only offered a deeply gratifying culinary indulgence, but also provided a source of portable energy for the people traversing this mountainous terrain.

Choose Your Own Culinary Adventure

Feeling adventurous? Don’t be afraid to experiment with your Kashmiri naan! Here are some ideas to make this recipe your own.

  • Fruitful Swaps: Instead of cherries and raisins, try using dried apricots, cranberries, or currants instead.
  • Go Nuts: Any nut will do, really! That means pistachios and pine nuts of course, but also walnuts, pecans, or even Brazil nuts, too.
  • Spice it Up: Inject bolder flavor into the base with a pinch of cardamom, cinnamon, turmeric, and/or cayenne mixed straight into the dough.
  • Always Umami: If you haven’t been saving up your shiitake stems, you can very happily use either Sugimoto donko or koshin caps as well.

Serving and Savoring

Kashmiri naan is incredibly versatile. It shines as a standalone treat, served warm for breakfast or snack, especially alongside a steaming cup of chai. Of course, just like your average naan, it also makes a fantastic accompaniment to curries, providing a sweet contrast to the savory spices. Personally, my favorite accompaniment is fiery sambal blended with a touch of vegan yogurt for a bold finishing touch.

While all naan is welcome on my table, Kashmiri naan is in the upper echelon of all yeast breads. The unconventional, incredibly compelling pairing of sweetness and umami, wrapped up in pan-fried, pillow-soft dough is impossible to top. For a taste sensation that’s both familiar and refreshingly different, look no further. Plain naan may need to step out of regular rotation for a while.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Crunch Time

I love cabbage. I don’t care how weird or uncool that makes me; I will never hide my penchant for these leafy brassicas. Look, I get the stigma, having historically been the food of peasants, the tragically poor and déclassé. After centuries of disrespect, I’d like to think I’m seeing glimmers of hope on the horizon for the humble cabbage.

That’s where the Crunchy Cabbage Salad at Loro comes in. For a place that bills itself as an Asian smokehouse and bar, they sure do know their way around the produce department. I was instantly smitten with their oak grilled snap peas that graced the menu over the summer, but this salad turned out to be the real sleeper hit. Arriving at the table showered with lemon zest, fresh mint, and candied cashews, the interplay of sugar and salt, crunchy and creamy, is exactly what makes it so compelling.

Gossamer-thin strands of shredded red cabbage intertwine with lightly pickled cucumbers and bites of tender green cabbage, sweet and mild, crisp yet somehow juicy. Coated in a cashew-ginger vinaigrette, the dressing has body from just a roasted cashew butter, preventing it from becoming cloying or heavy. Brightened by the fresh, raw spice and citrus, it’s the kind of condiment you’ll want on hand at all times. Go ahead, start mentally doubling or tripling that recipe right now to save the rest for later.

Loro keeps their secrets well, so I couldn’t get the official formula out of them. No matter; nothing will stand in the way of my love for cabbage. This is my take on the concept, with the added benefit of making about four times as much for a quarter of the price. Going slightly off-script, I found that smoked cashews add an even more compelling dimension, but simple roasted cashews would be equally satisfying.

Above all else, the real star of the show is the cabbage. Standing tall like fragile, tender greens never could, it’s a salad that travels well, keeps well, and quite simply won’t let you down.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Get Your Grub On With Crosnes

If it’s vegan, I’ll try anything. In fact, the more unfamiliar the ingredient; the more unlikely the pairing; the more visually unappealing, the more I want it. Which brings me to crosnes.

What Are Crosnes?

Tiny, pale corkscrew tubers, you’d be forgiven if you thought they were a juicy grubs you just unearthed from your garden. Also known as the Chinese artichoke, Japanese artichoke, Chirogi, Gan Lu Zi, 甘露子, knotroot, or artichoke betony, they originated in Japan, but really took root in China, where they were used medicinally as a cold remedy and general respiratory cure-all. Eventually they traveled to Europe in the 1880s, and were named for Crosne, a town near Paris, France. Still relatively unknown, crosnes are very difficult and labor-intensive to harvest, taking them almost entirely off the market.

What Do Crosnes Taste Like?

Crisp like water chestnuts with a subtly sweet, nutty flavor similar to Jerusalem artichokes, they’re best eaten raw or lightly cooked. Boiled or stewed, they lose their shape, melting away into unidentifiable starchy sludge. Don’t lose the opportunity to enjoy what makes them so special -even if part of that is evocative of young larvae. Just trust the process.

Cooking With Crosnes

Crosnes can be cooked in a variety of ways, most notably by sautéing, roasting, flash-frying, and pickling. No matter the method, be careful not to overcook them, using high heat and short cook times. Always wash thoroughly to remove the dirt, but peeling is optional, largely for aesthetics. That said, the skin comes right off once blanched in boiling water for 60 seconds, plunged into ice water, then simply scrubbed well.

  • To sauté crosnes, heat some olive oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the crosnes and cook for 5-7 minutes, or until they are tender-crisp.
  • To roast crosnes, preheat your oven to 425 degrees F (200 degrees C). Toss the crosnes with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread them out on a baking sheet and roast for 10-15 minutes, or until they are tender and slightly browned.
  • To deep-fry crosnes, heat oil to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Fry the crosnes for 2-3 minutes, or until they are golden brown.

Beet-Pickled Crosnes with Garlic and Dill

Serving Suggestions

Though they do have an affinity for Asian and French seasonings, don’t be afraid to experiment with different flavor combinations. Here are a few simple ideas for how to apply that inspiration:

  • Salads, chopped or thinly sliced
  • Stir fried, with other vegetables and/or noodles
  • Pickles, on charcuterie boards, cocktails, or sandwiches
  • Pasta, tossed with a butter sauce, red wine ragu, or creamy alfredo

Creamed Crosnes

I’d like to think the crosnes are the filet Mignon of root vegetables; luxurious, expensive, and reserved for special occasions. That’s why I thought a classic steakhouse preparation suited them well, paired with my favorite mycoprotein steak. Speckled with both black and aleppo pepper, bathed in a creamy mustard-spiked sauce, they’re immersed in a warm, fresh sort of spice that hits right in the sinuses.

Naturally, you could happily skip the fancy plating and toss in some tender chickpeas or baked tofu to make a wholly satisfying one-pot meal instead. If you’re lucky enough to find crosnes, if you even chose to cook them at all, a singular savory indulgence awaits

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Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments

Hot Take

We all know what you’re supposed to do when life gives you lemons, but what about when life gives you jalapeños? Or, more specifically, when you need a single jalapeño for a photo shoot but can only buy them in 1-pound packages? Turns out there’s no cute proverb for that. Considering the number of times I’ve faced down exactly this conundrum, you’d think there would be a simple answer.

Turns out there is. Sriracha, one of the hottest exports to come from Thailand, is an essential condiment in my household. There must be no less than three bottles at any time, in case of emergencies. While most famously known as a bright red sauce made from fresh red chili peppers, there’s no reason why green jalapeños can’t enjoy the same treatment. In fact, there’s even yellow sriracha made from Thai burapa chiles, but that’s a story for another blog post.

Green Sriracha Heats Things Up

Both red and green sriracha start with the same basic formula, creating a garlicky, lightly sweet, and tangy base. Green jalapeños, being the unripe predecessors to red, have a sharper, grassier, brighter kick. As a result, green sriracha has a spicier bite that starts punching right away. Nuanced, but not subtle, this is the answer to anyone who thinks conventional sriracha is too mild.

Seasoned To Taste

The real benefit of making your own sriracha from scratch, aside from preventing food waste should you find yourself with a daunting pile of peppers, is getting to call the shots on what ingredients make the cut. Contrary to commercial options, my sriracha is…

  • Sugar-free, using pineapple juice for natural sweetness, plus a touch of acidity instead of harsh white vinegar
  • Free of preservatives and stabilizers, because it won’t be kicking around on a dusty shelf for years
  • Lower in salt, since whatever you’re using it on will be presumably be salted, too
  • Higher in garlic, because I’ve yet to find the limit

While store-bought sriracha may still have a place of honor in my fridge, homemade will always have the edge. With minimal effort and active time, you’ll be rewarded with a vibrant, flavorful condiment that elevates any dish. You don’t even need to accidentally over-purchase green jalapeños to give this recipe a try.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

All Washed Up

If there’s one thing I’d like to hire someone to help me with, it would be washing dishes. After shopping, prepping, cooking, styling, shooting, and editing, the last thing I want to do is stare down the towering pile of dirty pots, pans, and plates teetering dangerously in the sink. Energy flagging, I’m mentally done with the work already, and then this tedious chore blindsides me right when I start to wind down. Yes, it’s my mess to clean up, and yes, I will still throw a tantrum like a spoiled child asked to pick up their toys, no matter how old I get.

Washing Dishes Is The Pits

Between the grease, baked-on grime, and shredding dish sponge, it’s just a textural nightmare. Getting an actual dishwasher was the holy grail, the surefire fix for all these horrors, but the reality was an even greater let down. It turns out it functions best is as overflow storage, not even aiding with a pre-rinse assist.

There’s only one way to I know to take down this daily task…

Eat it! At least, when it’s a sponge cake, half the work is done before you ever bring your plate to the sink! I don’t think this is April fooling anyone, but I’m more about silly puns than outright pranks. For a gentle trompe l’oeil, much like last year’s ramen cake, the punchline still pays off in spades. If you’re with me, grab a fork and start cleaning up your act.

What’s In A “Sponge” Cake?

The “Brillo” scrub is made from a olive oil matcha struesel, admittedly thicker than the genuine article, but we can all agree the crumb topping is the best part. For that, I’m willing to take a hit on realism. Underneath, a tender golden cake enriched with turmeric and pumpkin puree shines with bright lemon flavor.

Washing dishes is still a pain, but having the right supplies at hand definitely sweetens the deal.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Carrot and Stick

Like clockwork, as the weather warms and thoughts turn to garden parties, alfresco brunches, and spring celebrations, carrot cake is invariably waiting in the wings. Despite being one of the few omnipresent produce options all year round, they’re inextricably linked with spring. Maybe it’s the vibrant orange color of carrots that helps shake off the doldrums of winter, its perceived lightness and freshness to combat months of heavy stews, or simply the associations with Easter. Regardless, if you don’t have a solid carrot cake recipe in your repertoire, you’re liable to get left out in the cold.

Carrots’ Glow Up

Curiously, the traits that we prize most in carrots today were nonexistent in their earliest ancestors. Once a thin, spindly, and bitter white root, they bear almost no resemblance to the golden-hued, sweet vegetables we know today. Centuries of selective breeding transformed it into one of the world’s most popular edible plants across all cultures. Medieval European cooks first incorporated them in simple puddings that laid the groundwork for the evolution of carrot-based desserts. As refined sugar was a rare luxury, carrots provided a naturally sweet alternative for the everyday worker.

Icing On The Cake

Contrary to my photographic evidence (or lack thereof), I would never support sending out naked carrot cake. Especially when we’re talking about cupcakes, without any buttercream addition, those are simply muffins, no matter how you try to sell it. I just don’t see the need to reinvent the wheel, when so many marvelous frosting formulas are already available. My top recommendations, in order:

Building A Better Carrot Cake

There’s no lack of options for vegan carrot cake recipes out there, and yet I’d still like to throw my hat into the ring. What sets mine apart is the inclusion of finely ground almond flour, adding a satisfying density and subtly nutty flavor. That taste resonates with the generous addition of toasted pecans, which also introduce a toothsome textural contrast. To that end, I fully endorse raisins as well, for their chewy bites of concentrated sweetness. For staunch raisin-haters, I’d implore you to replace them with diced dried pineapple instead of outright omission.

Most importantly, there’s enough actual carrot content to live up to the name, not just a few token shreds for aesthetics. While this is solidly a dessert, not a health food nor full serving of vegetables, it should at least pay tribute to the supposed star of the show. Woven throughout the lightly spiced crumb, the taproot becomes tender and almost silky after baking, adding richness and moisture, just like the historical uses intended.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments