Tag: fried

Stick To It

As much as I love edamame, I’m loathe to order them at a restaurant. They have to be something really special, perhaps charred with a smoky kiss from the wok, anointed with enough garlic to ruin any date, to merit real consideration. The fact of the matter is that in most cases, they’re merely the same green pods anyone could grab from the freezer, barely thawed enough to melt the ice crystals, and seasoned either with too much or too little salt; there’s never any middle ground.

Edamame, though admittedly perfect beer snacks as is, deserve so much more care. The bar is so low that the bare minimum of creativity hooks me like a hapless, hungry fish. “Edamame Sticks” did the trick, in just that one line. It was printed on a menu online with no further description, and no means of ordering, but when has that ever stopped me before?

Wrapped up in a thin sheath of wheat-based egg roll skin, chopped edamame are granted the thoughtful application of spices and aromatics that quick serves can never afford. Far from groundbreaking, the complement of garlic, ginger, soy sauce, and sesame oil are simply playing the hits that the crowd most wants to hear. Once fried, bubbling surface of the wrappers bronzed and resoundingly crisp, no one could deny these beans.

The only problem with edamame is when they’re served as a placeholder, something to keep your hands busy while you wait for anything better. Given even a modest intervention, sealed, spiced, and sent through hot oil, they snap out of their stupor. Apparently this is still too much to ask of restaurants sending out plain pods at exorbitant prices, but at least we have all the tools at our disposal to do better at home.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

Keep On Kibbeh On

Diving into a plate of homemade kibbeh, still hot enough to scald both your fingers and mouth as you steal the first bite, and still so impossibly delicious that it’s worth the pain, is a singular experience to aspire to. It’s been on my recipe wish list for a decade, maybe two, punted in favor of less daunting dishes. At long last, I can say that while it’s not a quick fix meal to whip up on an average weeknight, it’s well within reach, and well worth taking the plunge.

What Are Kibbeh?

The word kibbeh stems from an Arabic verb كَبَّبَ (kabbaba), meaning “to form into a ball” or a circular shape. Kibbeh is considered a revered national dish of Syria and Lebanon, held in high esteem and fiercely protected. The essential ingredients for any form of kibbeh are bulgur wheat, spices, and ground meat. Traditionally, that meat would be in the form of lamb, beef, or goat, but plant-based variations abound. My recipe combines potatoes for binding power, chickpeas for protein, and Sugimoto Shiitake for umami to create the ideal balance of texture, nutrition, and flavor.

Sugimoto Shiitake are my favorite substitute for ground beef. You can mince the whole mushroom or just the stem for a thrifty fix that packs a huge punch of flavor. The toothsome chew stands on its own as an authentically meaty sensation, or enhances any range of alternative proteins to those same lofty standards. Coarsely mashed chickpeas, crisp pine nuts, caramelized onions, and a dazzling array of spices join forces for an unforgettable taste sensation.

Hashweh in Arabic means “filling” or “stuffing,” which is how I refer to this umami mixture. However, in common parlance, it’s come to refer to a one-pot rice dish, not unlike a meaty pilaf. You could very happily use it to stuff other vegetables, like peppers or cabbage, or serve like a side dish as is.

Kaleidoscopic Kibbeh

Kibbeh isn’t just one dish. At last count, there’s roughly 70 distinctive variations found across the Middle East. Between regional variations, family tradition, and personal preferences, no two recipes are ever the same. Some of the most common types include:

  • Kibbeh Nayyeh is served completely raw, fully incorporating the meat with the wheat, like a finely ground steak tartare.
  • Kibbeh Bil Sanieh bakes the components together as two layers in a shallow dish.
  • Kibbeh Labanieh takes fried kibbeh balls and drowns them in a thick yogurt sauce.
  • Arras Kibbeh is what we’re making today: football-shaped, stuffed, and deep-fried kibbeh.

Popular Pairings

Is it a main dish or a mezze? That’s a trick question; it’s both! Get the party started by serving hot or room temperature kibbeh alongside tahini sauce, hummus, or tzatziki for dipping. Create a full dinner spread by pairing them with tabbouleh, shirazi salad, pita bread, grilled or roasted vegetables, or red lentil soup. Of course, you can easily make a one-bowl meal by topping salad or rice with all your favorite fixings and freshly fried kibbeh.

Prep For Success

There’s no way around it: making kibbeh from scratch can be an all-day affair. The first attempt may be messy or unshapely, but I promise you, every bit as gratifying in the end. Make the process easier by planning ahead:

  1. Enlist help from friends or family when it comes to stuffing to make the process both quicker and more enjoyable.
  2. Prepare one or both of the components in advance and store them in airtight containers in the refrigerator for up to three days.
  3. Uncooked kibbeh freezes well, as does fully fried, leftover kibbeh, allowing you to enjoy it whenever the craving strikes.

Fear Of Frying?

Deep frying isn’t a regular activity around here, given the mess, potential hazards, and health implications, so I understand the hesitation. However, if there’s one recipe that I’d implore you to embrace that bubbling vat of oil, (though not literally, please!) it’s this one. No other method will create that perfectly crispy, golden brown shell that encloses a moist, meaty center. That said, I don’t want to dissuade you from trying other methods if that’s the only way to go. Your best bets are:

  • Baking: Spray or brush the kibbeh with oil and bake in an oven preheated to 400 degrees for 25 – 30 minutes, flipping halfway through.
  • Air frying: Spray or brush the kibbeh with oil and air fry at 370 degrees for 12-15 minutes, shaking the basket every 5 minutes or so.
  • Pan frying: Set a nonstick skillet over medium heat, coat the bottom with 1 tablespoon of oil, then add 10 – 12 kibbeh at a time, making sure the pan is not too crowded. Cook for 8 – 10 minutes, turning on each side until evenly browned. Repeat with the remaining kibbeh.

Making kibbeh is truly an art that takes time and practice to get right. Fortunately, imperfect kibbeh is equally delicious, so your efforts will always be rewarded.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments

Fritter the Day Away

From the beginning of time, when humans discovered fire and the very concept of cooking itself, fritters have bubbled up across all cultures. Defined primarily as battered and fried morsels, the specifics that flavor these nuggets are limitless. Vegetables, fruits, or proteins could be the main feature, or a combination, or none of the above. The dough could be raised by yeast or baking soda or eggs, or left unleavened altogether. Served at any meal from day break to nightfall and in between, fritters can be sweet or savory, spicy or mild, served hot or cold. When you start trying to pin down exactly what a fritter is, it might be easier to describe what it isn’t instead.

Most Americans are familiar with simple, comforting fritters born primarily in the south; apple fritters are a staple lining in any decent pink doughnut shop box, while corn fritters are essential summer snacks. The French have beignets, while Italians call them bigne. Pakora hail from India, binding together bits of onion, potatoes, cauliflower or other vegetables in savory, seasoned chickpea flour.

While I could write a whole dissertation about the diverse world of fritters, I’d like to draw attention to a less celebrated sort today: the black eyed pea fritter. Known also as accara, this legume-based variant is primarily found in Africa. You could almost think of them as falafel from another motherland. Dried pulses blended coarsely with spices, fried until golden and crisp, they’re irresistible eaten out of hand as a snack, but work well in everything from sandwiches to salads.

This recipe comes from Chef Philip Gelb, who in turn adapted it from Bryant Terry. I was fortunate enough to first taste this beloved street food first hand, at one of his cooking classes eons ago. They were part of a lavish Jamaican spread including jerk cauliflower, calaloo, run down stew, and peas and rice, but I daresay they stole the show. Paired with a tart, tangy, sweet, and spicy tamarind chutney, I have a feeling you’ll fall in love with them, too.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)9 Comments