Anchovies are a polarizing ingredient. The little silver fish are as good as gold by some eaters, and worse than rotting garbage on a hot summer’s day to others. If you’re vegan, obviously that’s a nonstarter, but I’d like to solve that dilemma and win over the haters all in one bite. Plant-based anchovies are here at last.
Vegan Anchovies: An Upstream Battle
The lack of fish-free proteins has long been the thorn in my side, as a former (short lived) pescatarian. Lagging behind all manner of plant-based innovations from cheese to beef, it’s still rare to find products that fit the bill or recipes that come close to the genuine article. Anchovies, perhaps unsurprisingly, are completely absent from that conversation. Inspired by a friend who’s a fervent fan of the canned sea critters, I set out to create my own oily fish from eggplant.
Eggplant, believe it or not, has the perfect buttery, melt-in-your-mouth texture once brined and marinated. Essentially the sponge of the vegetable kingdom, they soak in all the bold, umami, salty flavors you need and crave in conventional anchovies. Sugimoto Shiitake Mushroom Powder is the key to success, contributing that intense savory, meaty, faintly earthy flavor taste, without imparting an overtly mushroom-y character. Working in concert with the oceanic essence of kombu seaweed, tart capers, and sharp white vinegar, the results are intense, rich, and briny in all the best ways.
In Praise of Eggplant Anchovies
Anchovies, like shiitake, are champions of umami, the savory “fifth taste” that adds depth and richness to food. A single anchovy can elevate a dish from bland to “wow” by adding complexity in an instant. A little bit goes a long way, like tiny flavor bombs ready to detonate upon impact. They’re the secret ingredient in Caesar salad dressing, a base for the fragrant fish sauces of Southeast Asia, and the magic touch in Italian puttanesca sauce.
Tips For Success
Before anyone asks: No, you can’t reduce the salt. No, you can’t remove the oil.
- While the eggplant strips do get a quick rinse, they’re still very salty, quite like the ocean. They’re essentially pickled before being marinated, so consider how salty your favorite pickles are before judging too harshly.
- Officially categorized as an “oily fish,” we need to add our own healthy fats here to compete. This contributes to the sensation known as kokumi or “rich taste,” which works together with our beloved shiitake’s umami to create the most compelling, crave-worthy experience.
- Don’t rush the process; letting the raw, salted eggplant sit for hours slowly draws out bitterness and softens the flesh. Since it barely gets heated through, most of the tenderizing happens here.
Serving Suggestions
Once you have them at your disposal, you’ll find endless options for enjoying your homemade anchovies.
- Pizza: Name a more iconic combo. Anchovies make the melted cheese seem richer, the crust crisper by contrast, and the tomato sauce more robust. Before you scoff at this as an American bastardization, you should know that they’re a common topping in Italy, especially in southern regions.
- Bruschetta: Top toasted bread with a drizzle of olive oil, chopped tomatoes, fresh herbs, and a whole vegan anchovy fillet. Simple, elegant, and bursting with flavor, you could easy serve this at a party with great fanfare, too.
- Salad: Caesar is the obvious choice, but any leafy green side that needs a bit more oomph could benefit from some chopped vegan anchovies. If you’re serving someone with textural aversions, simply blend them into the dressing instead.
- Pasta: Toss your favorite noodle with red sauce, pesto, alfredo; any sauce goes! Whole vegan anchovies work well with longer pasta like spaghetti and fettuccine, but you might want to chop them when using shorter shapes.
- Butter: Make dairy-free compound butter with eggplant anchovy puree and fresh herbs. Slather it on bread, let it melt into mashed potatoes, and use it to finish meatless steaks.
Start thinking about them like you would olives. Use sparingly, but frequently, for maximum satisfaction.
Eggplant, Nightshade of the Sea
Perhaps eggplant anchovies are the plant-based alternative that no one asked for, but I promise they’ll become an irreplaceable staple in your kitchen, too. Just imagine the look on a seafood lover’s face when you unveil a dish bursting with the briny, rich, savory depth they crave, made entirely with plant-based provisions. Eggplant anchovies are your secret weapon, a simple substitution that shatters the stereotype of vegan food being bland. They not only add umami magic but open a world of culinary possibilities. You’ll never be able to look at the humble nightshade the same way again.
Continue reading “Vegan Anchovies Are No Fish Story”
