White Hot

Color is a critical indicator for how we approach food.

Color Psychology in Food

Green typically signals vitamins and nutrients, a healthy choice, and possibly grassy flavors.
Red often tells us what we’re about to eat is sweet, or ripe and rich in umami.
White, perceived as the absence of color, suggests a lack of taste altogether.

Bland, boring, devoid of notable nutritional value, white fails to elicit the same sort of instant hunger that a bold, brilliantly colored dish can.

Such a shame for what is actually a reflection of every color in the spectrum. White is the ultimate shapeshifter, concealing a world of different spices. That’s why curry, found in every brilliant hue under the sun, is a particularly dangerous dish to cloak in bright white.

Consider this recipe your newest painful pleasure. Introducing, curry of another color.

What Is White Curry?

Creamy coconut milk is a common base for curry, smoothing out the harsh edges of hot spices with a rich and cooling finish. Most are tinted with yellow turmeric, and/or red or green chilies, but there’s more than one way to add a fiery bite to your food. My unconventional white curry uses pale Hungarian wax peppers to bring the heat, along with tiny but mighty bird’s eye chilies, small enough to disappear into the stew without any visual impact. From there, only white vegetables and plant protein join the party. White button mushrooms add umami richness and Asian pears contribute a subtle sweetness that’s essential to the nuanced, balanced flavor profile, but there’s plenty of room for adaptation.

Ideas For Additions

Make this recipe your own and try all sorts of different vegetables instead! Think there aren’t enough white produce picks to keep things exciting? Think again. Consider the following:

Jicama
Potatoes
Daikon
Parsnips
Cabbage
Fennel
Kohlrabi
Lotus root
White corn
Navy or cannelini beans
White asparagus
Hearts of palm

Don’t count the “lack” of color on this dish as a red flag. The amount of heat concealed in that creamy sauce could set off alarm bells for the unprepared. Don’t forget to serve with plenty of white rice to soak it all in!

Continue reading “White Hot” →

April 21, 2023February 26, 2023

Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Mucho Matzo

You know what’s the worst part about buying matzo meal for Passover?

Having it sit in the pantry for the rest of your life.

Okay, perhaps that’s a bit over-dramatic. Maybe you’re more organized than I am and would clear the shelves without needing to include all the contents in your final will.

The thing is, I just don’t love matzo in any form, aside from matzo toffee, perhaps. If we’re being honest, it tastes stale from the moment it comes off the factory line, with a gritty, chalky taste and texture that would be rejected by taste testers if Moses ever held a focus group on his new product.

Unfortunately, matzo meal is a necessary evil to enjoy the one redeeming dish of Passover: Matzo ball soup. If not for those tender, fluffy dumplings, I’d happily forget that the stuff even exists. Instead, I’ll do my Jewish duty of preparing the culinary highlight of the holiday, end up with a mostly full box of excess matzo meal, and either give it away via the Buy Nothing Project or unceremoniously dumping it out of frustration a few months later. Next year, like clockwork, the cycle will begin anew.

How To Use Leftover Matzo Meal

It’s time to stop wasting a potentially serviceable staple! This is more a reminder for myself, but if you’re in a similar situation, these are my best suggestions for using up matzo meal, beyond the predictable matzo ball soup.

Add it to plant-based meatballs, meat loaves, or burger patties for bulk, texture, and binding power.
Mix in herbs and spices to act as a seasoned breading for fried tofu or cauliflower.
Sweeten with granulated sugar and drizzle in melted vegan butter until it holds together when pressed; transfer to a springform pan and bake into a crust for cheesecake.
Create a pesadik version of cream of wheat by simmering 1 part matzo meal with 2 parts water for about 5 minutes, until thickened. Serve hot with maple syrup and cinnamon.
Toast in a dry skillet and use instead of pine nuts in pesto.

How To Make Matzo Meal

Save yourself from the dilemma of excess in the first place by making your own matzo meal from scratch, yielding just enough for its intended purpose.

One sheet of matzo will create roughly 1/4 cup of matzo meal.
Break up as many sheets as you need into smaller pieces and place them in your food processor with the “S” blade installed.
Pulse until finely ground to about the consistency of coarse almond meal.
Store in an airtight container in a cool place until ready to use.

With a little bit of creativity and craftiness, anything can be delicious. You could be a matzo lover or hater and still enjoy any of these alternate uses that give it a whole new life beyond the seder plate!

April 10, 2023February 24, 2023

Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Axe Me Anything

Bestsellers on Black Friday are typically high-end electronics, kid’s toys, luxury fragrances, and jewelry. Of course, blissfully oblivious to conventional door busters, this past holiday season, I ended up walking away with a kitchen axe.

Kitchen axe with an open acorn squash and seeds

What does one do with a kitchen axe?

Did I need a kitchen axe? Absolutely not. The most important function of a kitchen axe is that it could scare off potential intruders and makes you look like a badass. Practically though, I had no idea what I would use it for.

Conventional wisdom would suggest that this is a blade meant for heavy-duty butchery, like a cleaver on steroids, but that’s a misconception. It’s actually an entirely unique and very useful tool*

The long handle is designed for an arcing swing to channel a lot of power into a single strike, which is ideal for cracking open whole coconuts.
The gently curved blade is ideal for rocking over fresh herbs for a consistent, fine mince.
The wide metal head is excellent for slicing through large, hard vegetables, like winter squash, jicama, or celery root.
The small size is compact and great for travel. It fits easily into any purse so you’ll always be properly equipped on the go.
The razor-sharp edge will do the job in case of emergency dismemberment, decapitation, or disembowelment needs.

Kitchen Axe in a log outside

Important Note

*A kitchen axe is in fact, poorly suited for all culinary tasks compared to comparable butcher’s knives or simply blunt objects, such as bricks or rocks. It’s only a good gift for someone you think would look better with fewer fingers. Proceed with extreme caution and many bandages on hand, literally.

April Fool’s!

April 1, 2023April 2, 2023

Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments

Do As You Peas

Standing in the kitchen, hands full of half-peeled zucchini in the dark of night, I’m trying to channel my grandmother circa 1984. Five years before I was born, President Ronald Reagan was in office, astronauts went on the first untethered space walk on the moon, and Apple made a splash with its infamous “1984” Macintosh commercial. It was also the year that Bon Appétit magazine published a recipe for Zucchini Cups Stuffed with Peas.

Zucchini Cups Stuffed With Peas - Recipe Card from Bon Appetit Magazine, December 1984

I know this because my grandmother so carefully clipped and preserved this relic of the past. It survived nearly four decades, multiple moves, deaths and births, whole lifetimes. Not once did I ever see zucchini cups with peas grace our table, and I can’t help but wonder… Zucchini cups, cored

Why? Why zucchini cups?

Why was this recipe run in December, for starters, when neither zucchini nor peas would be in season?
Why was this the standout dish my grandmother kept, of things?
Why couldn’t I stop thinking about it, from the minute my mom unearthed it?

Stuffing baked zucchini cups with peas.

These questions have no answers.

My grandmother doesn’t remember the zucchini cups or what inspired her to file the recipe away. I’m okay with not knowing; some things just are that way, and I’m happy to have this taste of the past, maybe even better than what my grandmother had envisioned during her years of entertaining.

Zucchini cups stuffed with peas on a silver platter.

Small changes were necessary, of course, to veganize and enhance the original stuffed zucchini recipe with modern ingredients and technology.

Butter is traded for peppery extra virgin olive oil.
Dried tarragon gets axed in favor of verdant fresh herbs.
Melon ballers belong only in museums at this point, so I reached for my trusty zucchini reamer instead (yes, that’s a thing)- Though you could very happily use a regular pairing knife here.
Boiled zucchini sound downright dreadful, which is why the dry heat of the oven, which concentrates flavors and gently browns the surface, had much greater appeal.

The real beauty of the concept, however, is that it doesn’t take much to assemble or enjoy. I suppose they were intended to serve as appetizers or snacks for guests, as every good housewife should be ready to entertain at the drop of a hat, but I happen to think they make a fantastic side dish for any random weekday dinner, too.

Green pea stuffing.

If you have extra peas, those alone are brilliant to pair with just about any protein, such as a meatless loaf, balls, or cutlet, especially with creamy mashed potatoes or al dente pasta as a base. Beyond that, consider using them to top avocado toast, puree to use as a dip, or mash roughly to stuff into sandwiches.

Zucchini cups stuffed with peas on a silver platter.

I’m certain my grandmother never made the original recipe, but I hope I could still do her proud with my rendition. We don’t have many memories together, at least in recent years, so I’m grateful to keep making new ones now.

Continue reading “Do As You Peas” →

February 27, 2023February 27, 2023

Hannah (BitterSweet)Leave a comment

Too Much Is Never Enough [Zucchini]

“Too much zucchini” is a problem I’ve never had. While it’s true that I’m no gardener, I’m also no stranger to second-hand zucchini from friends and neighbors.

Big, small, serpentine, or spherical; all zucchini are welcomed with open arms. These green squash are even more versatile than cauliflower, if you ask me. They can blend into the background seamlessly, thickening soups and sauces without a hint of their vegetal origins, or steal the show as the main focal point of a dish. I have never once gotten tired of zucchini because zucchini can be anything.

If you’re struggling with an overabundance of summer squash, don’t panic. I’ve got a few fool-proof suggestions that will make easy work of even the largest harvest.

10 Best Zucchini Recipes

If you have too much zucchini on your hands and not enough ideas, these fool-proof recipes will help you make the most of your harvest.

Olive-Stuffed Eight Ball Zucchini

Greek-inspired seasonings pull together this unusual combination of olives, white beans, artichokes, and spinach beautifully, and set these stuffed zukes apart from the rest.

Zucchini Babka

Traditionally reserved for holidays, this rich, yeasted bread is the perfect vehicle for some of those excess zucchinis. Really, you'd be kidding yourself if you approached this as a "healthier" treat thanks to the vegetables, as it could very well be more decadent than that ubiquitous carrot cake piled high with cream cheese frosting. Don't let that stop you from having a thick slice for breakfast though; if you can call a cupcake without frosting a muffin, you can easily get away with pretending that this cake in bread's clothing is a reasonable choice to start the morning. Your taste buds will certainly thank you.

Eggless Omelette Eight Ball Zucchini

Round summer squash stuffed with an eggless custard that falls somewhere between a soft scramble and a tender omelette, bursting with fresh vegetables and simple, comforting savory flavors.

Zuke-anoush (Zucchini Baba Ganoush)

For anyone avoiding nightshades, this eggplant-free take on baba ganoush is for you. Lightly roasted zucchini is blended with smoked salt and tahini for an incredibly accurate take on the original inspiration.

Roasted Zucchini and Chickpea Soup

Satisfying and filling thanks to the addition of gently crisped chickpeas, but still light and refreshing due to the simple sea of broth surrounding them, zucchini never felt more at home outside of the field than in this concoction. Highlighting their fresh flavor, slightly sweetened by drawing out the natural sugars while roasting, this is the kind of soup that I’m happy to eat both hot and cold.

Stuffed Zucchini Bites

Humble Zucchini rounds are filled with a hearty mixture of nuts and beans, plus aromatic herbs and spices. They could just as happily make themselves at home on a dinner plate, as a side or even an entree, thanks to their protein-rich stuffing. Best of all, they’re delicious both warm and cold, and can be prepared in advance.

Zu-Key-Ni Dill Muffins

Soft, tender, and rich, they're the kind of muffin that needs no additional toppings or spreads to shine. They're packed with zucchini to take care of any summer surplus in the most delicious way possible. Enjoy warm for maximum effect, ideally toasted to get those perfectly crisp edges, especially a day or two after baking.

Golden State Zoodles

A true flash in the pan, the edible gems are seared until their skins bubble and burst to create a sauce of their own juices. Zucchini noodles are tossed into the hot mixture, just to soften, but not cook, retaining a more toothsome bite and fresh flavor.

Creamy Zucchini Pinwheels

Walnuts blended with umami miso and savory herb turn into a stunningly creamy, unbelievably cheesy take on dairy-free ricotta. Wrapped up in tender planks of grilled zucchini and served with marinara sauce, it may just be the new power lunch.

Thai-Style Zucchini Ribbon Salad (Based on Som Tum)

Inspired by Thai papaya salad, this version uses zucchini that's chilled, tender yet crisp, cooling but still popping with bursts of heat from abundant flecks of chili peppers. Brightly acidic, tangy, and slightly salty, with just a touch of sweetness to take the edge off, every component must be in perfect balance to achieve a successful, harmonious dish.

July 27, 2022July 20, 2022

Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Jam Session

Tomatoes are the calling card of summer. Plump, red orbs growing heavier on their vines with every passing day, they tease in shades of green and yellow as they slowly ripen. Gradually darkening like rubies glistening in the sun, suddenly, they’re all ready for harvest at once. It’s now or never; grab them by the fistful or regret your mistake for another year. If you don’t take advantage, hungry critters stalking your garden surely will.

That’s how even a modest plot of land can drown a single person in tomatoes. Big or small, standard or heirloom, it’s sheer bliss for the first few days. Then, after a couple rounds of tomato salads, tomato soups, tomato sauces, and tomato juice, tomatoes may begin to lose their shine.

Don’t let it get to that stage. Take your tomatoes while they’re still new and fresh, concentrate them down to a rich, umami-packed tomato jam and you’ll never grow tired. Burning through two whole pounds right off the bat may feel like a sacrifice, but it’s a wise strategy in the long run. There’s going to be plenty more to come to enjoy every which way, without ever reaching your upper limit of enjoyment.

What Does Tomato Jam Taste Like?

A little bit sweet, a little bit savory, I do use sugar in my recipe but not nearly as much as with berry or other fruit jams. It should be just enough to balance and heighten the other inherent flavors. A touch of jalapeño adds a subtly spicy bite, which you could omit or double, depending on your heat-seeking sensibilities.

How To Make Tomato Jam Your Own

Use half or all tomatillos instead of tomatoes
Increase the garlic; there’s no such thing as too much
Instead of jalapeño, use sriracha, smoked paprika, gochujang, or harissa to spice things up
Swap the apple cider vinegar for balsamic or red wine vinegar