Newman’s Old Cookies

Twenty years is an incredibly long time when it comes to the lifespan of most products, and even the brands themselves. Combing through the archives to revisit the blog’s first years of life, it’s striking just how few of my earliest review features are still on the market. Rest in peace, my beloved Sweet & Sara marshmallows. May your memory be a blessing, Sunergia soy feta. Until we meet again, Luna tea cakes. I’ll see you in hell, Righteously Raw bars. I could go on, but there was one remarkable finding that snapped me out of that sad spiral: the very first thing I ever reviewed is still on store shelves, nationwide, to this day.

Newman-O’s, one of the earliest “healthy” Oreo doppelgangers that told us it was okay to eat cookies as long as they were organic, seems largely unchanged after two decades. The biggest difference is the label, bold and colorful, redesigned to capture what little attention spans shoppers have left. I thought this was the perfect opportunity to reopen my investigation to see if they still hold up to scrutiny.

Newman’s Own Organics launched the iconic Newman-O’s in 1993, the first line to expand the company’s offerings beyond their initial dressings and sauces. In addition to the Original sandwich crèmes up for re-examination today, additional flavors include Chocolate Crème, Mint, Peanut Butter, Strawberry, and Vanilla. Sadly, Ginger-O’s quietly disappeared from store shelves post pandemic, never to return. Of course, this was my favorite one. Yet again, my approval seems to be the ultimate kiss of death.

Oreo is said to be the world’s best-selling cookie, though Newman-O’s are hardly concerned about competing or dominating in any arena. 100% of the profits go to charity, which should make it a bit easier to swallow the $6.99 – 9.99 price tag, which is easily two or three times more than “America’s Favorite” cookie. Ostensibly, you’re paying for quality; organic flour and sugar, and no trans fats, high‑fructose corn syrup, or partially hydrogenated oils. Does it all add up when it comes to flavor, though?

Yes and no.

Yes, this is a solid sandwich cookie. Crisp chocolate wafers enclose a creamy white filling, balancing out the subtly bitter edge of the cocoa with a blast of vanilla frosting sweetness. They dissolve easily when dunked in non-dairy milk, melting away in the mouth without leaving a greasy residue. The two halves cleave away cleanly, satisfying for anyone that prefers to deconstruct their dessert to eat the components separately. Uncomplicated, they’re easy to love at any age.

No, it’s not vastly different from the experience of eating an Oreo. Maybe it’s the placebo effect that lends them the impression of having a cleaner finish and flavor, or that you can feel better about making a “smarter” choice. Eaten side by side, without the respective logos embossed on top, it might be difficult to tell them apart. That, however, is honestly a win for Newman. To offer the same addictive qualities as such a well-loved cookie, without sacrificing quality ingredients is a certain kind a coup.

I’m amazed, impressed, and relieved that Newman-O’s remains exactly as I remember it from my first foray into reviewing food. Before sponsorship, work for trade, influencers, and all the other noise muddying up the field, this is one I chose to buy with my own money, and still do.

Marvelous Mekelesha

Spice blends make the world go ’round. Individual spices are powerful, but who cooks with just one at a time? It’s rare to find a solo seasoning that really stands up to scrutiny, or at least, can’t be improved by a bit of teamwork from complimentary flavors. Being able to quickly reach for a harmoniously blended combination that’s already carefully calibrated and ready to go is the ultimate cooking hack. When I can add a new blend to my spice rack, it opens up a whole new world of possibilities. That’s exactly what happened when I first tried mekelesha from Red Fox Spices.

What is Mekelesha?

Traditionally employed as a finishing spice in Ethiopian wots, the warming, sweet character of the mixture seems incongruous to the richly savory stews at first, yet somehow manages to meld seamlessly into the finished dish. Carried by nutmeg, cinnamon, and cardamom, then sharply contrasted by cloves, cumin, and pepper, it’s a potent, distinctive taste that’s hard to explain. Like any spice blend, the exact components and ratios are up for debate. What’s nonnegotiable, if you ask me, is that long pepper makes the cut. Though a rarity in the US, that’s exactly what Red Fox Spices invites to the party, alongside more commonplace black peppercorns, imparting an irreplaceable slow-building, earthy heat.

How is Mekelesha Used?

By all means, use mekelesha as intended to make more robust entrees, compelling side dishes, and unforgettable meals. Then, when you’re ready to experiment, consider the sweeter possibilities that I found utterly irresistible. Spice cookies use so many of these basic components already; why not cut to the chase by creating a simple formula that dazzles with wildly complex flavor? That’s why a good spice blend is essential.

The Sweeter Side of Mekelesha

Mekelesha Molasses Cookies leverage the inherently rich, hot, and simultaneously smooth spice blend to brighten the classic New England treat. Nutty whole wheat flour and molasses lend a dark, deep foundation to amplify the contrasting tastes. Like gingerbread with a brighter bite, soft and chewy, with a crisp coarse sugar crust, the complete package is utterly irresistible. The fact that they come together with only a handful of pantry staples makes them all the more tempting; once you have mekelesha at your disposal, nothing will stand in the way of your next batch.

Make More with Mekelesha

Anywhere you might reach for apple pie spice, pumpkin pie spice, chai spice, five spice powder, or even garam masala, give mekelesha a try instead. With a single sprinkle, it bridges cuisines and traditions, slipping effortlessly from slow-simmered stews to baked goods that feel both familiar and extraordinary. When a dish needs something more but you can’t quite name it, this indispensable Ethiopian blend just might be the answer.

Continue reading “Marvelous Mekelesha”

Pinwheeling and Dealing

Is it pure coincidence that one of my favorite holiday cookies is synonymous with joy, new beginnings, and good fortune? Sugar cookies, with their latticework icing and shimmering sprinkles, may get the spotlight on the main stage, but I’d like to pitch pinwheel cookies as the true headliners of any cookie tray. Pinwheels are said to symbolize turning bad luck into good, of transitioning from old to new, and what could be better as we round out the year, doing our best to close it out with a sweet taste lingering on our tongues?

Spinning together two sheets of soft dough, the most common duo tends to be peppermint and chocolate, for obvious reasons. I have trouble resisting the pair myself, often thinking back to my very favorite episode of Alton Brown’s Good Eats, where I first learned of this edible art form. Utterly captivated, I watched The Cookie Clause more times than I can count. All through the holiday season, those spiral cookies would play across my tiny bedroom TV, morning or night, and I remained glued to the screen as ever.

I’ve made a few spirals since then, including a summery strawberry version that ended up in the pages of My Sweet Vegan and then Sweet Vegan Treats. However, compared to the myriad cookies I crank out every year, and especially as Christmas draws ever closer, it’s not nearly often enough. To remedy that, I’m swirling warmly spiced gingerbread, ever the wintry classic, with bright lemon cookie dough, enriched with tangy cream cheese and a heavy dose of fresh lemon zest. Yes, I’m currently obsessed with everything lemon thanks to the bounty of my very own beautiful Meyer lemon tree, but that’s a story for another post.

Don’t be daunted by the length of the recipe. Though more involved than your average drop cookie, they save you all the time and hassle of decorating afterwards. Slicing the logs into rounds to reveal the pattern within makes all the planning and prep worthwhile. Pinwheel cookies come out of the oven fully realized as beautiful, rave-worthy gems, the likes of frosting or sanding sugar would only besmirch.

Plan ahead for the greatest success. The considerable downtime between steps makes these anything but fast food. Fortunately, you can press pause and play in the middle of the process, even more easily than on a recording of that beloved TV episode. Tightly wrapped, the dough can keep in the refrigerator for 3 – 5 days and up to 6 months in the freezer. You can slice just a few at a time to always have freshly baked cookies ready at will.

Simultaneously combining gingerbread and lemon in a harmonious pairing, while keeping them separate enough to appreciate each flavor individually, these pinwheel cookies are the best of all worlds. I’m not sure if Alton Brown would be impressed, but I know that my teen-aged self, once drooling over the untouchable idea of such baking artistry, would be proud.

Continue reading “Pinwheeling and Dealing”

Whiskey Business with Brownies

Does the world need another brownie recipe?

That’s the question I posed on social media, teasing a photo of just such a thing. Perfectly squared, with razor-sharp edges and straight sides, stacked beguiling towards the viewer, even they seemed aware of what an obvious ask this was. The answer landed even before the question mark was fully formed.

“There is always a good reason to create a new brownie recipe. After all, brownies = joy.”
“The world 🌍 ALWAYS needs another brownie recipe!”
“Yes of course.”
“Yes, please!”
“Well duh!! 😍😍😍”

The people have spoken.

Better Than Basic

While we can agree that there’s no limit to brownie recipes, I’m not one go all the way back to basics. There needs to be at least a small twist, a little something that sets them apart from their fudgy brethren. To that end, I offer two shots of salted caramel-flavored whiskey, warm and rich, alongside nutty toasted pecans. A gentle snow of flaky sea salt feels necessary to round out the theme, ending each bite on a saline high note, thin crystals crunching gently into the glossy surface.

Sweet Stories, Edible Memories

This recipe in particular holds stories, coming from a specific set of circumstances that made me want to preheat the oven in the first place. An embarrassment of riches came from my neighbor’s pecan tree, and a stunning amount of that plunder went to me. Stashed carefully in the freezer for safe keeping, I’ve been working down the surplus slowly, thoughtfully, while trying to think of ways to repay such a gift. This same neighbor and I sometimes share fresh pecans and shots of this particular whiskey to gossip about the community, complain about work, or just catch up, so I knew these ingredients already had a strong affinity. All I had to do was add chocolate.

So, settling the debate once and for all, the world needs many, many more brownie recipes! They don’t need to be earth-shaking, wildly creative, never-before-tasted creations to make a big impact, and more importantly, taste like a little morsel of joy. Sometimes, a little salt, a splash of whiskey, a handful of pecans, and a whole lot of love can do that.

Continue reading “Whiskey Business with Brownies”

Scout’s Honor

Shredded coconut bums me out. Sweetened or not; long strands or short sprinkles; flat flakes or coarse grounds; I cringe inwardly every time that distinctive ingredient pops up in a recipe. I love coconut in general, but the moment as you deprive it of moisture and distill it down to only its most fibrous components, you’ve lost me as a fan. As a result, shredded coconut tends to sit around in my freezer for unconscionable amounts of time. After fulfilling its duty for whatever assignment it was called for, I have no inclination to consume it myself. That’s why I’m thrilled to pack it up in a caramel tart and pawn it off on others.

Coconut Head

The beloved girl scout samoa cookie inspired this supersized snack, employing a simple shortbread crust topped with that cursed coconut filling, finished with a liberal drizzle of dark chocolate. Quick, uncomplicated, and straight to the point, there’s no better way I can think of to use up a full 3 cups of shredded coconut in one go.

Worthy of a Baking Merit Badge

Samoas, not to be confused with Indian samosas, sometimes go by the name of Caramel deLites, depending on which troops do the baking. First being offered on the girl scout menu in 1975, the only explanation for the original name is that it likely aligns with the island of Samoa, where coconut is one of its major exports. Seems a bit random to me, given all the possible sources for coconut products, but I wasn’t the one who chose the title.

Lightly toasted and wrapped up in a gooey yet sliceable brown sugar substrate, resting just beneath a thin veneer of chocolate and comfortably nested on top of a crisp, slightly crumbly crust, shredded coconut is utterly transformed. My surplus was immediately plundered, as slice after slice hit plates, then to-go containers for seconds and midnight snacks.

Did this finally change my tune on the desiccated dread? Absolutely not. I’m just happy to find a compelling approach for using it up and sharing with others. To each their own, although better together; coconut lovers are welcome here to eat all of it for me.

Continue reading “Scout’s Honor”

Home Is Where The Chocolate Is

What makes a house a home? In the case of a gingerbread house, it’s about sugar and spice, of course, but it’s the personal touches that make it special. Just like you would lovingly decorate your own living spaces, each culinary construction project is an opportunity to bring your unique aesthetic to life. I’ve always relished the idea of making a gingerbread house for the holidays but rarely went through with it. Daunted by the process, it seems too difficult or time-consuming at a glance.

This year, I committed to pushing through that mental barrier to make myself a genuine gingerbread home at last. Seeing as I finally got my first home in real life this year, it’s only fitting to make a suitable tribute. Naturally, incorporating a few unconventional ingredients, my entry is anything but standard.

Choco-Rooms

Rich Dutch-processed cocoa creates the characteristic dark panels on my edible abode as a stark departure from the mahogany brown of conventional cookies. This in itself is nothing new, however; you’ll find a recipe for “cocoa-nut gingerbread” cookies printed in the 1845 cookbook, Modern Cookery, In All Its Branches, and no doubt earlier versions if you keep digging. What these early bakers didn’t think to include is the ultimate all-purpose flavor enhancer, otherwise known as Sugimoto shiitake powder.

Mushrooms are sprouting out in all sorts of foods and drinks, from coffee to cakes, owing to their nutritional prowess and, in the case of shiitake’s abundant free glutamate, ability to amplify existing flavors to even greater resonance. No, it won’t make your sweets taste mushroomy, as proven by my shiitake vanilla ice cream. You won’t know it’s there, per say, but once you taste the difference, you will know if it’s missing.

Building Up The Gingerbread House Legacy

Long before pumpkins found their spice, gingerbread was the defacto flavor of the holiday season. As the spice trade flourished in the Middle Ages, ginger became more accessible, paving the way for the evolution of gingerbread into a dessert worthy of celebration. By the 15th century, gingerbread had made its way to Europe, where it began to take on new forms. In Germany, it was often molded into intricate shapes for festivals and fairs. This was also the era when the famed Nuremberg gingerbread, known as “Lebkuchen,” gained popularity, featuring a complex blend of spices and nuts.

However, it was the story of Hansel and Gretel that truly solidified gingerbread’s place in the holiday canon. The Brothers Grimm’s fairy tale, published in the early 19th century, painted a picture of an enchanted house made entirely of gingerbread and candy, capturing the imaginations of children and adults alike. Inspired by this tale, gingerbread houses began to emerge as a holiday tradition, continuing into the modern era, where families would gather to create their own edible cottages adorned with sweets.

Iced Out

Skip the conventional royal icing mortar in favor of pure melted chocolate to build a better home. Aside from the obvious flavor benefits, it’s much easier to work with, piping out smoothly or spreading on thick, and sets up very quickly in a reasonably cool kitchen. If you need to speed things along, just set your pieces in the fridge for a few minutes, and they’ll be good to go. I wanted to keep mine simple, sticking with only dark chocolate for all my embellishments, but you can go all-out with vegan white chocolate, colored sanding sugar, candies, fresh herbs, and any other edible decor your heart desires. It’s your house after all; raise the roof!

Build It Better

Based on my fool-proof Gingerbread Cut-Out Cookies recipe, this formula has already stood the test of time. After 13 years and untold adaptations, it simply never fails. The dough is sturdy, easy to roll out thinly without cracking, and barely spreads while baking. You could absolutely make classic gingerbread people and call it a day, no house required. These cookies make for excellent gifts or additions to any holiday party.

A house isn’t built overnight, and neither is a gingerbread house. Well, yes, while it’s possible for the early risers and truly ambitious, I find it much more enjoyable (and less stressful) to bake the pieces one day, apply basic decorations and piping once completely cooled, and assemble them the next. For more construction advice, see my previous post about best gingerbread house building practices.

Chocolate gingerbread, enhanced by the subtle umami undercurrent of shiitake powder, could be the next big thing for seasonal sweets. Rich dark chocolate and the warm spice of gingerbread, elevated by the depth of umami from shiitake powder, is the unlikely combination I personally can’t get enough of. Go ahead; embrace the holiday season with an eye towards nostalgia but an appetite for something new. In this sweet home, all are welcome.

Continue reading “Home Is Where The Chocolate Is”