Tag: condiment

Finessing Fennel

Fennel is not a common line item on my grocery list. Apparently, the same can be said for most of America, judging by the distinct lack of bulbs chilling in the produce department. Fresh fennel is one of those ingredients that I’ll buy for a recipe, kick myself for not buying more often after remembering its brilliance, and promptly forgetting again. Though polarizing like cilantro, the licorice-like flavor is one that I love. That fresh, herbal flavor that shines through whether cooked or raw is utterly inimitable.

Most recipes focus on the crisp base itself, forsaking the stalks and fronds. After going through all the trouble (and expense) of getting fresh fennel, you’d better believe I’m not about to let any of it go to waste. Fennel pesto is an easy solution for zero-waste satisfaction.

Apply liberally anywhere you’d use basil pesto. Pasta; salad; bruschetta; rice pilaf; soup; anywhere you want a little botanical infusion can benefit from a spoonful. If you want a drink pairing, try any gin cocktail to pick up on the complex aromatics found within.

How could anyone forsake the delicate fronds and more robust stems of fennel, especially after going through the trouble of securing the whole vegetable? For your own happiness, health, and frugality, never throw away any part of fennel again. If you like it enough to cook with it, you’ll love squeezing out every last drop of flavor.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

No Shito, Sherlock

Shito is unlike any other peppery potion on the planet. I want to say I developed a mild obsession with this Ghanian staple after editing and photographing one particularly inspiring article for Vegan Journal, but there’s nothing mild about it. While blisteringly hot habaneros are usually near the upper limit of my heat tolerance, when blended with sweet caramelized onions and robust tomatoes, their firepower is utterly transformed. It may still leave you gulping down water, but wanting more nonetheless.

What Is Shito?

“Shito” comes from the Ga language and is short for “shitor din,” which literally means “black pepper,” alluding to the dark color the paste takes on after cooking low and slow. The heat level can be calibrated to taste, unique to each individual cook, ranging from medium-hot to an edible inferno. Exact components and proportions vary by region and household, but common uniting factors include chilies, tomatoes, onions, garlic, ginger, and oil. Traditionally, dried fish and/or shrimp is the key to unlocking its distinctive body and richness, earthiness and umami. That may sound like a tough thing to emulate through vegan means, but when you have Sugimoto shiitake powder on deck, it’s as easy as opening a bag.

Shii-to (AKA, Shiitake Shito)

One unexpected benefit of using Sugimoto shiitake powder instead of dried seafood, or even simply ground, dried mushrooms, is that the incredibly fine powder absorbs more liquid, creating a thicker, more substantial sauce. Though it still separates as it sits, it’s much easier to use as part of a bold dip or topping that coats foods lavishly, rather than simply sliding off. Additionally, from a health standpoint, combining shiitake mushrooms with spices like chilies, garlic, and ginger can enhance their immune-boosting properties and increase the absorption of certain nutrients. Hot sauce really is good for your well being!

Spice Up Your Life

Simply swap out your usual hot sauce options for shito, and you’ll know what to do. It’s an all-purpose hot condiment that genuinely goes with everything. If you want a bit more guidance to get started, here are my top suggestions:

  • Spread on wraps and sandwiches
  • Drizzled on top of avocado toast
  • Swirled into soups
  • Simmered into curries
  • Mixed into hummus
  • Tossed with potato or pasta salads
  • Whisked with your favorite vinegar or citrus juice to make a vinaigrette
  • Used in marinades for tofu, seitan, tempeh, or any plant-based protein

Traditional Ghanian dishes that are ideal for pairing with shito include:

  • Waakye, a dish of rice and beans
  • Fufu, boiled and mashed starchy root vegetables like cassava, plantains, or yams
  • Jollof rice, pilaf seasoned with spices and tomatoes

I’m cutting this list short here because we’ll be here all day if I keep going. I have yet to find a single dish that isn’t enhanced by this infallible finishing touch.

FAQ

Still have some burning questions about shito? Don’t be afraid, ask away! A few of the most commonly asked queries are as follows.

Can I make shito oil-free?

No. Shito cannot be made without oil. Shito cannot be made with reduced oil. Shito is an oil-based hot sauce, like chili crisp, and won’t work any other way. Oil is an excellent carrier for spices especially, intensifying flavors and preserving them over longer periods of time, while also absorbing more readily into other dishes. Bear in mind that a serving will only be a teaspoon or two, so it’s not like you’re drinking of cup of oil straight.

How long does homemade shito keep?

When stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator, shito can last for at least a month, easily. Just make sure to keep it sealed and use a clean spoon each time you scoop some out to avoid contamination. For longer term storage, I’ve taken to freezing smaller jars so I can make a bigger batch and never run out. It’ll last in the freezer for at least 6 months. Place it in the fridge to slowly thaw out over the course of 24 hours when you’re ready to crack open the next one.

Can I halve the recipe?

Eight cups of hot sauce may sound like a lot to the average person, especially as a first time trial. You can easily cut the recipe in half if you’re not totally committed at first. Just plan to top off with a second batch soon after.

What can I substitute for habaneros?

Habaneros aren’t the only hot peppers in town. If you can’t get your hands on them or just want a change of pace, try using 4 – 6 scotch bonnet or 12 – 14 cayenne peppers. Feel free to experiment, mix and match, and make your own unique blend.

Peppered With Promise

To try shito is to love it. Speaking as a fair weather hot sauce fan, this potent little capsaicin elixir caught me completely off guard. Calling it revolutionary isn’t an overstatement; it’s the undefinable extra something special that I didn’t know my meals were missing. With every spoonful, shito unveils new layers of flavor that will forever change your eating experience for the better.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Boss Sauce

If tamales are on your agenda, doña sauce should be, too. Ubiquitous throughout Austin taquerias, high-end and low-brow, every plate is splashed with a shock of green salsa, clearly different from the rest. So commonplace that its absence is more notable than its presence, it didn’t even occur to me that it was a specific local phenomenon, invented just 20 years ago. More than just another salsa verde, salsa doña has secured a cult following without even trying.

What Is Doña Sauce, AKA Salsa Doña?

Invented by Bertha Gonzales while working at Tacodeli, it handily won an in-store salsa competition to snag a $30 prize. Given a Spanish honorific title out of respect, it became the signature flavor of this burgeoning chain, eventually being packaged for nationwide distribution. The amount of doña sauce being made everyday to meet the demand is staggering, to the tune of 60 pounds of jalapeños per individual taco shop, per day, to say nothing of commercial production.

Unforgettable Flavor

Built upon the smoky char of roasted jalapeños, garlic, and cilantro, such a simple foundation belies its complexity. Thick, rich, and creamy, it looks alarmingly like some dairy amalgamation at first, but that distinctive texture is all thanks to emulsified oil, much like an eggless aioli dip. Moderately spicy and somehow simultaneously cooling, brilliantly fresh and herbaceous, it’s hard to believe that this sensation comes together with only six common ingredients.

I Put That Sh*t on Everything

Tamales, tacos, burritos, nachos, queso, soups, burgers, wraps, sandwiches, salads, rice, refried beans… Stop me anytime, because the list of possible uses for salsa doña is truly endless. Anything that needs a little kick, regardless of the cuisine, is a prime candidate. The only thing I’d suggest not putting it on is your toothbrush, but then, you do you.

Often Imitated, Never Replicated

Tacodeli doña sauce copycat recipes abound. I don’t claim mine to be the most authentic since I wasn’t trying to recapture that lightning in a bottle. Instead, my version is inspired by the revered matriarch, leaning more heavily on the garlic and cilantro than other comparable renditions. Likewise, make it your own, dialing the ingredients up or down to taste. If you’d like yours hotter, leave the seeds in the jalapeños. Whatever you do, don’t let you tamales go naked. Especially when you’ve gone through the trouble of making such an important, labor-intensive holiday staple, they deserve the very best salsa to dress for the occasion.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Vegan Anchovies Are No Fish Story

Anchovies are a polarizing ingredient. The little silver fish are as good as gold by some eaters, and worse than rotting garbage on a hot summer’s day to others. If you’re vegan, obviously that’s a nonstarter, but I’d like to solve that dilemma and win over the haters all in one bite. Plant-based anchovies are here at last.

Vegan Anchovies: An Upstream Battle

The lack of fish-free proteins has long been the thorn in my side, as a former (short lived) pescatarian. Lagging behind all manner of plant-based innovations from cheese to beef, it’s still rare to find products that fit the bill or recipes that come close to the genuine article. Anchovies, perhaps unsurprisingly, are completely absent from that conversation. Inspired by a friend who’s a fervent fan of the canned sea critters, I set out to create my own oily fish from eggplant.

Eggplant, believe it or not, has the perfect buttery, melt-in-your-mouth texture once brined and marinated. Essentially the sponge of the vegetable kingdom, they soak in all the bold, umami, salty flavors you need and crave in conventional anchovies. Sugimoto Shiitake Mushroom Powder is the key to success, contributing that intense savory, meaty, faintly earthy flavor taste, without imparting an overtly mushroom-y character. Working in concert with the oceanic essence of kombu seaweed, tart capers, and sharp white vinegar, the results are intense, rich, and briny in all the best ways.

In Praise of Eggplant Anchovies

Anchovies, like shiitake, are champions of umami, the savory “fifth taste” that adds depth and richness to food. A single anchovy can elevate a dish from bland to “wow” by adding complexity in an instant. A little bit goes a long way, like tiny flavor bombs ready to detonate upon impact. They’re the secret ingredient in Caesar salad dressing, a base for the fragrant fish sauces of Southeast Asia, and the magic touch in Italian puttanesca sauce.

Tips For Success

Before anyone asks: No, you can’t reduce the salt. No, you can’t remove the oil.

  • While the eggplant strips do get a quick rinse, they’re still very salty, quite like the ocean. They’re essentially pickled before being marinated, so consider how salty your favorite pickles are before judging too harshly.
  • Officially categorized as an “oily fish,” we need to add our own healthy fats here to compete. This contributes to the sensation known as kokumi or “rich taste,” which works together with our beloved shiitake’s umami to create the most compelling, crave-worthy experience.
  • Don’t rush the process; letting the raw, salted eggplant sit for hours slowly draws out bitterness and softens the flesh. Since it barely gets heated through, most of the tenderizing happens here.

Serving Suggestions

Once you have them at your disposal, you’ll find endless options for enjoying your homemade anchovies.

  • Pizza: Name a more iconic combo. Anchovies make the melted cheese seem richer, the crust crisper by contrast, and the tomato sauce more robust. Before you scoff at this as an American bastardization, you should know that they’re a common topping in Italy, especially in southern regions.
  • Bruschetta: Top toasted bread with a drizzle of olive oil, chopped tomatoes, fresh herbs, and a whole vegan anchovy fillet. Simple, elegant, and bursting with flavor, you could easy serve this at a party with great fanfare, too.

  • Salad: Caesar is the obvious choice, but any leafy green side that needs a bit more oomph could benefit from some chopped vegan anchovies. If you’re serving someone with textural aversions, simply blend them into the dressing instead.
  • Pasta: Toss your favorite noodle with red sauce, pesto, alfredo; any sauce goes! Whole vegan anchovies work well with longer pasta like spaghetti and fettuccine, but you might want to chop them when using shorter shapes.
  • Butter: Make dairy-free compound butter with eggplant anchovy puree and fresh herbs. Slather it on bread, let it melt into mashed potatoes, and use it to finish meatless steaks.

Start thinking about them like you would olives. Use sparingly, but frequently, for maximum satisfaction.

Eggplant, Nightshade of the Sea

Perhaps eggplant anchovies are the plant-based alternative that no one asked for, but I promise they’ll become an irreplaceable staple in your kitchen, too. Just imagine the look on a seafood lover’s face when you unveil a dish bursting with the briny, rich, savory depth they crave, made entirely with plant-based provisions. Eggplant anchovies are your secret weapon, a simple substitution that shatters the stereotype of vegan food being bland. They not only add umami magic but open a world of culinary possibilities. You’ll never be able to look at the humble nightshade the same way again.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Sage Advice

When you were a kid, did you ever dream of one day waking up in someone else’s life? To jump out of bed in a brand new room, fully inhabited and carefully curated by someone with an impeccable sense of style? To open the drawers and find all new clothes, exactly your size, but nicer than you’ve ever had before? That’s what it felt like beginning the latest chapter in my new home. Such an immaculate, well-maintained space could only have fallen into my custody by some magical event, like something only my childlike imagination could rationalize.

Inhabiting that dream is a wild endeavor. Instead of waking up right when it starts getting good, you just keep going, discovering more, increasingly incredible things. Every minute detail is yours for savoring, and in the case of the yard especially, that will be an endless odyssey. Clearly, the previous owners had green thumbs, sowing seeds for plants and vegetables up and down the perimeter, into raised beds, across the front walk; everywhere the eye can see.

Gardening has become a full-contact sport. Beating back the weeds, growing tenaciously with thorns and burs outstretched with the threat of violence thick in the air, wasn’t part of the dream I fancied, but honestly, have also come to relish. Ripping out the invasive roots is incredibly satisfying, piling the gnarled roots for composting in a heap that gleams like a trophy in the sun. The real treasure is found when the battle is won, slowly unveiling a panoply of new plants for the taking.

Tomatoes, peas, mint, rosemary, sage- Oh, the sage! Suddenly I’ve inherited a large family of plant babies, but the sage, especially, demands attention. For a pungent herb that goes a long way, I certainly have a ton of it now. The soft, feathery leaves outstretch and tumble outside of their wooden containers, tumbling into the loamy soil below. They push and shove their siblings in an old fashioned show of rivalry, fighting for attention when they already have it. So in this dream world that’s become my life, I’m the steward of an outrageously large patch of fresh sage. No one prepared me for such an outlandish outcome.

Fresh Sage Tasting Notes

Fresh sage has a strong, earthy flavor that reminds me of Thanksgiving. That’s pretty much the only time I think of it, infusing that herbal aroma into stuffing, gravy, and meatless roasts. Sage is most at home in Mediterranean, American, and British cuisine, adding a subtly peppery, piney, citrus-y flavor that’s unlike any other. This combination makes it an especially compelling addition to dishes with dark leafy greens, mushrooms, lemon, garlic, browned butter, and toasted nuts.

Ideas For Cooking With Sage

If you have a more reasonable amount of fresh sage, perhaps leftover from another dish, here are a few quick, simple ideas for using it up:

  • Compound butter: Cream softened vegan butter with chopped sage, garlic, and/or lemon zest. Roll the mixture into a log with plastic wrap, chill until firm, and slice for a flavorful addition to any dish.
  • Stuffing: Add chopped sage to your favorite stuffing recipe, be it cornbread, wild rice, sourdough, and beyond.
  • Soups and stews: Sage is a great addition to hearty soups and stews, especially bean soups, lentil soups, and potato leek soup.
  • Creamy grain dishes: Sage pairs well with the richness of plant-based cream or coconut milk. Try adding it to pasta dishes with cream sauce, risotto, or polenta.
  • Roasted vegetables: Toss chopped sage with butternut squash, Brussels sprouts, or other autumn or winter vegetables before roasting.
  • Fried sage leaves: Fry whole sage leaves in olive oil until crisp. These make a delicious, fragrant garnish for pasta dishes, soups, or roasted vegetables.

Quick Tip For Substituting Fresh Sage

Fresh sage has a stronger flavor than dried, so you’ll generally use less of it. A good rule of thumb is to start with 1 tablespoon of chopped fresh sage for every 1 teaspoon of dried sage called for in a recipe. Bear in mind that sage can become bitter and overpowering if cooked for too long. Incorporate it into your dishes towards the end of cooking to preserve the best elements of its flavor.

Taming A Ton Of Fresh Sage

If you, like me, have an insane wealth of fresh sage, it’s a different story. You really can’t just hammer it into a single dish; it’s already so strong, it would make your meal inedible. That said, pesto is my go-to move, especially when you can diffuse the sage with an equal measure of parsley. While the vibrant green paste is still incredibly powerful, you can safely freeze your pesto for future enjoyment, rather than letting the leaves wither outside in the brutal summer sun.

Of course, that’s not the end of the story. What can you do with sage pesto? I’m so glad you asked! Naturally, anywhere you’d use basil pesto, you can use sage pesto instead. That includes:

  • Pasta: Toss cooked pasta with sage pesto and you can serve it either hot or cold. When chilled, this is a great picnic side dish or guest at a potluck.
  • Pizza: Spread a thin layer of sage pesto over pizza dough instead of red sauce before adding your favorite toppings.
  • Toast: Toast your favorite sliced bread and spread with sage pesto for a delightful appetizer or snack. Obviously, sliced avocado would be an excellent addition, as would roasted tomatoes or pico de gallo.

  • Sandwiches and wraps: Add a spread of sage pesto to elevate your sandwiches and wraps. It pairs particularly well with roasted vegetables.
  • Eggless scrambles or omelets: Fold sage pesto into the scramble right at the last minute, or spread it on the inside of an omelet just before serving. Alternately, dollop or drizzle on top for immediate flavor impact.
  • Soup topping: Stir a spoonful of sage pesto into bowls of tomato soup, minestrone, or creamy potato leek soup for an extra layer of savory goodness.
  • Marinade: Toss tofu, tempeh, seitan, or your favorite meatless protein with sage pesto and let marinate for at least 30 minutes before cooking. The pesto adds both flavor and moisture to the protein.
  • Dip: Thin out sage pesto with hummus, plant-based sour cream, or yogurt for a excellent accompaniment to crackers and crudites.

While I’m still waiting to wake up from this dream, I sure hope that day never comes. I’ve grown quite fond of this new life, including all the sage it brings.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Stealthy Spice

Korean food in America is having a moment. Take a look at the latest hits from Trader Joe’s and you’ll see what I mean. They haven’t been able to keep frozen kimbap in stock since it launched almost a year ago, even after imposing strict purchasing limits. The beefless bulgogi has been winning over meat eaters and thrilling vegans as a premier protein, ideal for any cuisine, it turns out. They’ve introducing tteokbokki (spicy stir-fried rice cakes), japchae (clear sweet potato noodles), jumeokbap (rice balls), and much more to a whole new audience that’s absolutely eating it up. Kimchi paved the way, and yet I find that the weakest offering by far.

Beyond Basic Kimchi

Kimchi has been simplified to mean spicy fermented cabbage out here, which isn’t wrong, but not entirely right either. It’s like saying all pickles are made of cucumbers, disregarding the whole pantheon of fermented veggies in the cellar. What’s worse is the fact that many commercial American kimchi options are simply vinegared, not lacto-fermented. There’s no funk, no heat, no umami to speak of.

Rad Radishes

Kkakdugi (깍두기), made with chunks of radish, has become my new obsession. You won’t find it outside of Asian grocery stores, but the good news is that it’s one of the easiest forms of kimchi to make at home. It’s the equivalent of a quick pickle, ready in as little as an hour, or savored with more complex flavors in a week. Though daikon is traditional, I was inspired by an incredibly peppery batch of purple ninja radishes that seemed ideal to pair with the fiery heat of gochugaru.

Pungent in the best kind of way, ninja kimchi is an intense, bold, and invigorating condiment to accent your next meal. The vegetables stay crisp for a satisfying crunch, though they’re also fabulous added to stews for a softer bite. Naturally, any kind of radish will do, from the original daikon to garden variety breakfast radish, but flavors and colors do of course vary.

If you like kimchi or want to delve deeper into Korean food beyond what’s available at mainstream US grocery stores, kkakdugi is an excellent way to test the waters.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments