Tag: Chinese

Sassy Dim Sum

Though found in better supply around the Bay Area, vegan dim sum is a rare treat for most of the country. Sassy Foods has sprouted inside of Imperial Garden, a 30-year establishment beloved by the Portola neighborhood and beyond, challenging the status quo of conventional Cantonese food.

Ask for the vegan menu, developed by chef Menny Ly and added to the traditional fare in March of 2023, and they’ll take good care of you. Your best bet is to come early, especially if you want to find parking in their limited lot. Show up right at opening time and you can expect to find a handful of aunties and uncles already milling about outside.

I wish I could have ordered every single small plate, but stuck with a dumpling-centric meal to make the most of my limited stomach space. If you only get one thing, although that would be a big mistake, make it the Xiao Long Bao, AKA soup dumplings. Incredibly rare in the plant-based world, they’ve historically been made with gelatinized broth that melts upon cooking, leaving a scalding sip of rich soup bundled up in a chewy wheat wrapper.

What makes this so difficult to replicate, aside from the essential skill required to wrap such a challenging filling, is the fact that agar doesn’t behave the same way as animal-based gelatin. Once set, it won’t remelt under any amount of pressure or heat. I could speculate as to how Chef Ly achieves such a feat, but it’s also nice to bask in the mystery of this culinary achievement. Explosively juicy and wildly meaty, they’re everything I dreamed of.

Watching steam escape from the uncovered basket like a locomotive off-gasing, you may be tempted to let the dumplings cool, but this is a moment where you must accept the risk to reap the rewards. Start by nibbling a hole in the dumpling skin, then carefully slurp the hot soup out. Now you’re safe to take a real bite, fully appreciating the flavors and textures so carefully crafted together. The dance between danger and pleasure is part of the fun.

The Har Gao, glowing with a golden sheen, are an excellent pick as well, but much more subtle in flavor, allowing the veggie shrimp to shine. They’re especially nice when dipped lightly in the rosy pink vinegar sauce on the side, but don’t overdo it. Their beauty lies in their delicacy.

Potstickers are a wonderful in-between choice, lightly crisped on the outside, stuffed with scarily authentic pork-adjacent soy protein. My dining partner in crime was even concerned that they may not be vegan for their incredibly accurate in taste and texture.

The best approach is to clear your morning and afternoon schedule, grab a nice group of friends, order until the table groans under the weight of myriad dishes, and share everything. There’s not a single dud I could see in the dining room.

Sassy Foods

2626 San Bruno Ave.
San Francisco, CA 94134

Hannah (BitterSweet)1 Comment

Died and Gone to Veggie Heaven

I never made it to Veggie Heaven. Beloved as it was, and still is to those who can’t relinquish hope that it may someday return, this classic Austin establishment perished during the height of the pandemic. In fact, as “luck” would have it, the announcement came on the very day that I moved here. Maybe I’m better off not knowing what I’m missing. It’s hard to say, but its lingering influence can’t be ignored. References to Protein 2000 pop up frequently enough to trigger a sense of anemoia.

What Is Protein 2000?

Digging through the internet archives, the original menu description is as follows:

“So what exactly is the Protein 2000, A.K.A. the P2000? This is the number one question asked, as it is the most popular dish we serve. The P2000 is made out of soy protein isolate that is the result of separating protein from the whole soybean. The end result is a curd with a texture that resembles chicken. With 45 grams of protein per cup, it is an excellent protein source for vegetarians. The Protein 2000 is battered and fried to add that crispy texture and then sautéed in sweet brown sauce. So why was it named Protein 2000? This dish was created at the end of 1999 and was given the number 2000 to commemorate the year 2000.”

Recreating An Imperfect Copy

Recreating a dish you’ve never tasted before is both difficult and effortless. Difficult, because it’s impossible to determine whether or not its been recreated faithfully, as originally intended, hitting all the same high notes of the genuine article. It’s also a snap because without that frame of reference, as long as it tastes good, I’d call it a success. From the trail of breadcrumbs left behind as clues and a basic understanding of Chinese-American food, I feel reasonably confident that although imperfect, this formula should come close enough to scratch that same itch.

Takeout At Home

Essentially broccoli and beef through a plant-based lens, fried soy protein meets tender broccoli florets under a silky blanket of garlic-infused brown sauce. Large TVP chunks are the key to making a more accurate copycat, but at the same time, aren’t essential to making a great meal. They’re more difficult to find outside of online stores than classic staples like tofu or seitan, which make equally great protein options.

Making New Memories

Shared memories of Veggie Heaven and this iconic dish remain, looming large in the minds of those who were lucky enough to savor it. Even if I never get the chance to taste the real thing, there’s comfort in knowing that the spirit of the place lives on, in our hearts, homes, and stomachs.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments

Sweet, Salty, and Sour: And Introduction to Li Hing Mui

Capturing hearts and taste buds across the Hawaiian islands for centuries, it’s perplexing that li hing mui never made the jump to the mainland. Utterly unknown throughout most of the world, despite being an indispensable flavoring for tropical snacks and sweets, it’s a compelling, curious ingredient still shrouded in mystery.

What Is Li Hing Mui?

Shriveled, mummified fruits don’t appear to be a promising start for culinary exploration, but these dried Chinese plums defy expectations. Salted to draw out all the moisture, somewhat like Japanese umeboshi, the results are a powerful combination of sweet, sour, and salty tastes. They can be eaten whole, as is, but are more commonly ground into a fine powder and sprinkled over various candies and fruits.

The powder is often cut with licorice, red food coloring, aspartame, and/or saccharine, however, which gives it a sometimes polarizing flavor and creates controversy amongst whole food evangelists.

Flavorful Origins

The story of li hing begins in China, where it’s been used medicinally for centuries. The name “li hing” is derived from the Cantonese words for “traveling perfume” due to its strong aromatic qualities, and “mui” means plum. They’ve been said to help improve digestion, reduce inflammation, and soothe sore throats.

In the 19th century, Chinese immigrants brought this elusive spice with them to Hawaii, where it was embraced by the locals and quickly integrated into traditional Hawaiian cuisine. Snack shops, otherwise known as crack seed stores, always feature li hing prominently, as both a standalone treat and flavoring for gummies, dried fruits, nuts, and more.

Uses and Recipe Suggestions

If you have the whole fruit, it begs to be eaten as is. Be careful, because they do contain hard seeds that you don’t want to bite into! Once powdered though, a whole world of new opportunities opens up.

  • Sprinkle on fresh fruit: Just like a pinch of salt brings out the brilliant sweetness of peak seasonal produce, li hing does that with extra flare. Try it on watermelon, mango, pineapple, apples, and even strawberries.
  • Drinks: Mix a pinch of li hing powder into lemonade for a bright and refreshing beverage. It can also be used to rim the glass of a margarita, since it already has a touch of salt. When you’re feeling under the weather, it’s a wonderfully comforting addition to a mug of hot tea, too.
  • Candy: Particularly popular as a coating for gummy bears, you can make your own or take plant-based gummies and toss them in li hing before digging in. These are best enjoyed right away, since the salt can draw out moisture as it sits and make them gooey over time.
  • Frozen treats: Embrace the traditional Hawaiian shave ice experience by drizzling a li hing syrup over a bed of finely ground ice. You can also blend it into or sprinkle it on top of your favorite fruit sorbets.
  • Popcorn: Trade the usual buttery nooch topping for one that’s a bit more exciting! Go all-in on the Hawaiian theme and make hurricane popcorn with rice crackers and furikake while you’re at it. You can also make kettle corn to emphasize the sweetness, mixing the li hing powder right in.

Once you know the inimitable taste of li hing, you can never get enough. Li hing has captured the hearts of many through its journey from China to the Hawaiian islands. Its exotic blend of sweet, tangy, and salty notes has earned it a place in various culinary delights, enhancing everything from fruits to beverages. Whether you’re slowly sipping a li hing cocktail or munching on sweet and sour snacks, this singular flavor is sure to leave a lasting impression.

Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Have Your Cake Noodle And Eat It, Too

Jewish Christmas is by far my favorite of all the winter holidays. Though it may not be marked on the calendar as such, I’d argue that it’s every bit as legitimate as all the “national holidays” that social media loves to celebrate. Notably absent is the expectation of exchanging gifts, spending all day in the kitchen creating an elaborate meal, or time with the extended family with questionable political views. Quite the contrary; you’re fully expected to spend a good chunk of the day sitting in silence, enjoying the darkness of a movie theater, where you can (hopefully) avoid most people, then treat yourself to the finest American Chinese cuisine that your nearest hole in the wall takeout spot can provide.

Usually, I’ll have my order figured out long before the credits roll. Who am I kidding, I usually have my dinner game plan set before breakfast. The day can change and my mood may shift, but the craving remains the same. It seems like there are more people than ever seeking solitude at the movies, which means my social battery is still exhausted by that single outing. Returning to the safety of my home, I’m much happier to slip back in front of the stove to craft my own homage to Chinese takeout.

Moreover, for anyone that appreciates the art of crispy cake noodles, you’ll know that they’re best when eaten right away, making them a poor candidate for extended transport. For best results, you’ve gotta eat them right away, which means taking matters into your own hands. Luckily, that’s much easier than it may seem, thanks to the beloved air fryer.

What Are Cake Noodles?

Backing up a step, cake noodles may also be called noodle cakes, fried noodle cakes, or pan-fried noodle cakes, depending on the actual preparation and how literal the menu writer wants to be. They’re found in various permutations across numerous Asian cuisines, and have a notable following especially in Hawaii. Rather than a typical stir fry that creates charred chewy stands of individual noodles, the entire portion of noodles stays together in one large clump and is cooked to a crunchy finish. Any combination of protein and vegetables will then be cooked separately and plated right on top. The noodles begin to soften as the sauce they’re topped with begins to soak in, which makes them such an ephemeral, short-lived entree.

What Are The Best Type Of Noodles?

All noodles are beautiful, but if we’re talking about crispy cake noodles, wheat-based chow mein is the gold standard. Technically, any noodle can become a cake noodle, but very thick options like udon won’t become crispy all the way through, and gluten-free noodles may not stick together properly. There’s no harm in experimenting, though; even if you don’t make a cake noodle, you’ll still make something entirely delicious.

Why Use An Air Fryer?

We all know by now that air fryers are really just glorified countertop ovens, but that doesn’t make them any less convenient. In this case, their quick cooking capabilities and high temperatures create a perfect crunchy crust across your entire noodle cake, fully enclosed so there’s no temptation to stir and break them up. This preparation is especially well-suited to basket-style models for their round shape, popping perfectly circular noodle disks every time.

What makes cake noodles so special is their textural contrasts. Golden-brown, fried noodles, crispy and delicate on the outside yet tender on the inside, shine when plated with a savory medley of vegetables, succulent tofu, and a rich, flavorful sauce that coats every strand.

These little crispy marvels serve as a reminder of the simplicity and pleasure of Jewish Christmas. No need for complicated recipes, extravagant dishes, or expensive takeout – just a hearty, satisfying meal that warms the soul. It’s a culinary embrace that brings us comfort and joy during this quiet celebration. Even if you’re celebrating a more conventional Christmas this year, you might want to consider a round-two taking this approach the following day.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)11 Comments

Noodles You Should Know: Liangfen

Jiggly, wiggly JELL-O is a staple of early American desserts, persisting to this day as a favorite of the young, the old, and the boozy reveler alike. Most associate it with sweet desserts, packaged in all sorts of fruity flavors, but it hasn’t always been that way. In fact, gelatin was traditionally a savory ingredient, featuring prominently in some questionable gelled salads, or for the upper class, aspics instead. Of course, there’s so much more to it than that, especially when you consider different plant-based gelling agents. Thus, whenever I see “Sichuan green bean jello” on a menu, I’ll always jump at the chance to place my order.

Better known as liangfen, it’s not actually made from JELL-O or any animal-based gelatin at all. More accurately, it’s typically made from the starch of either mung beans or green peas. It may come as a surprise when it arrives at the table in bright white, blocky rectangular lengths, stained red with chili oil, boasting a hint of green color only from scallions or celery leaves on top.

What are Liangfen, AKA Cold Jelly Noodles?

Slippery, with a short bite that’s much softer than a chewy wheat-based noodle, they’re very easy to eat, provided you can gently coax them onto your chopsticks. It can be tricky to pick up more than one strand at a time, especially if they’re slicked with a richly umami sauce. Consider them the tofu of noodles, being almost completely flavorless before soaking in a deeply flavorful sauce. Mala Sichuan peppercorns, black vinegar, pungent chopped garlic, toasted sesame seed, and red hot oil sizzling with chilies are all essential for this dish.

Make Your Own Liangfen

As a naturally, “accidentally” vegan noodle, there are plenty of excellent recipes online that need no modification. It’s incredibly easy to make and fully customizable to your tastes, in case you’d prefer a sauce with less heat or more acid.

Where Do Liangfen Come From?

Served cold, the contrasting heat of the spices is what makes it so addicting. Especially on hot summer days, it’s incredibly refreshing while making you sweat at the same time. Fittingly, the name liangfen translates to “cold starch” or “cool noodle” in English. Born some time within the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912,) it began life as a humble street food in the Sichuan province, spreading quickly to proper eateries and even fine dining restaurants.

Eat Liangfen For Your Health!

For the health-conscious, there’s a lot to love about this sleek, silky treat, too. Low in calories and fat, it’s also rich in fiber and quality carbohydrates, promoting digestive health and providing a sustainable source of plant-based energy. Since these noodles are made of starch instead of wheat, they’re gluten-free and free of all major allergens.

Upon first bite, the unique gelatinous texture, seeming to melt in your mouth, grabbing your attention as something far outside the realm of western culinary creations. The interplay of flavors is a symphony of sensations; the tangy vinegar dances with the umami soy sauce, while the chili oil adds a crescendo of heat. Altogether, it’s an extraordinary noodle that should be a prominent guest at your table, too.

Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Join The Cult Of Celtuce

Do you have a moment to talk about our root and savior, celtuce?

Perhaps this girthy stem lettuce doesn’t have a cult following, and I’m not exactly the most convincing salesperson, but tasting is believing. I’m on a mission to spread the good word for this sadly unsung Chinese vegetable that deserves a fervent fan base. Since we last spoke of our planted redeemer, I haven’t seen a surge in popularity, so I’m back with another pitch that won’t miss.

Why You’ll Love This Celtuce Stir Fry

Pretty much anything can be stir fried with great success, but celtuce is a truly exceptional selection.

  • Cooks in minutes. High heat lightly cooks the food while keeping it tender-crisp throughout, making this a dish you can get on the table at a moment’s notice.
  • Minimal ingredients. Just a few pantry staples and fresh aromatics stand between you and instant gratification.
  • Bold, savory flavors. This is the real reason you’ll want to make this recipe again and again. A touch of nutty sesame oil goes a long way in adding depth and richness, bolstered by umami garlic chives and scallions. Warm fresh ginger and peppers spice things up, while a touch of black vinegar adds acid that cuts through it all, lingering with a gentle sweetness at the end.

How To Cut Celtuce

The thick skin protecting each stalk makes celtuce seem intimidating to break down, but it’s really a snap to hack.

  1. Use a sharp peeler or knife to cut away the thick outer skin. Remove the dried out bottom and leafy top.
  2. Slice it on a bias to make long strips, about 2 – 3mm wide.
  3. Stack a few of the strips at a time and cut those into thin ribbons.
  4. Repeat until the whole stalk is thinly julienned.

If you have any means of getting your hands on fresh celtuce, you’re doing yourself a disservice by leaving it at the store. Support your local Asian market, ask your closest specialty store to carry it, or even order it online. There’s nothing else quite like celtuce and once you’ve been enlightened by its virtues, you’ll become a believer, too.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments