Make A Beeline For Biquinho Peppers
An open olive bar is a very dangerous place for me to be. I’m not talking about the potential for cross-contamination with messy cubes of marinated feta, always carelessly crumbling beyond their containers, or germs from those who resist the shield of the sneeze guard. For me, the peril is in knowing when to stop. I have yet to meet a pickle I didn’t like, from mild to hot, and I always want to try more. One impulsive glance over the chilled chafing dishes could result in a pound of two of impulse pickles, and a correspondingly hefty bill.
That’s where I met my current pickle fixation, Brazilian biquinho (pronounced bee-keen-yo) peppers.
What Are Biquinho (Sweety Drop) Peppers?
Also known as sweety drops, they’re tiny tear drop-shaped peppers about the size of a nickel. Their name means “little beak,” owing to their pointed ends. Though most commonly red, you might get lucky and find yellow peppers too.
Think of them as concentrated red bell peppers; all sweet, no heat. For a touch of instant whimsy and elegance, these are the ultimate topper. No prep is needed since you eat them whole, seeds and all, which means they’re always ready to go straight out of the fridge.
What Can You Do with Biquinho Peppers?
If you crave the salty, briny bite of pickles like I do, it’s hard to resist popping them in your mouth straight away. Soft, tender flesh gives way to crunchy seeds for a wholly satisfying bite. Of course, if you can delay that gratification, there’s no end to their use in everyday and special occasion dishes alike. Here’s a few ideas to get you started:
- Toss into salads
- Top pizzas
- Fold into sandwiches or wraps
- Fill tacos
- Adorn cheese or charcuterie boards
- Garnish drinks
Anywhere a cucumber pickle works, these pickled sweety drop peppers will, too. Soon, they’ll be come an indispensable staple on your grocery list, not just a sporadic lucky find. For that, you’re welcome and I’m sorry.
Bloody Good Show
Some may consider mimosas the official drinks of brunch, but a strong Bloody Mary makes a compelling case for the title. Savory instead of sweet, the full-bodied tomato juice is a much more substantial base to alleviate a hangover from the previous night. Factor in a bold punch of spice, and that classic combination can instantly jolt you straight out of any lingering lethargy.
Let’s zoom in on that subtle heat for a minute. What if we replaced standard-issue Tabasco with something more complex? The American staple is fine for a gentle burn, but let’s be honest: It’s a one-note flavor, without depth or nuance. Kimchi, on the other hand, delivers a wide range of tasting notes, working in harmony to create something far greater than the sum of its parts. Funky, briny, salty, sweet, umami, pungent, and yes, spicy, it’s one of my favorite condiments and meal starters.
Add a shot of vodka and now we’re talking. Inspired by another cocktail from Neighborhood Goods, their original kimchi cocktail takes advantage of luxe liquid kimchi, crafted with all the elements of everyone’s favorite ferment, minus the cabbage. My take doesn’t stray too far but offers a cheap shortcut that includes the vegetables and all. Now you can call it a superfood, right?
Do not skip on the salted rim. Despite the fact that we’re essentially added blended pickles into the mix, it still needs that final high note of pure saline for balance.
How To Make A Perfect Salt Rim
Applying a delicate ring of salt round your glass isn’t rocket surgery, but it does take a certain finesse.
- Take a lime wedge and run the slice around the rim of your glass.
- Place coarse or flaky salt in a shallow dish.
- Dip the rim of your glass in the salt. Roll it around gently to make sure it’s fully coated.
- Fill with ice and pour in your cocktail. Enjoy!
Let’s Talk Liquor
Traditionally, a Bloody Mary calls for vodka. Neutral, smooth, and inoffensive, it’s an easy go-to that always plays well with others. If you wanted to switch up the routine to match with this Asian inspiration, soju is your new best friend. Comparable on many fronts, it’s clear, colorless, and has a high ABV that can reach upwards of 50% for some bottles. What sets it apart is a mild sweetness that can offset the fiery kimchi beautifully. There’s a wide range of options for soju, many of which have added sugar and fruity flavors, which are fun for drinking solo or mixing into sweeter cocktails, but should be avoided in this case.
A proper Bloody Mary is almost like a meal in a glass, even without a wild garnish that includes the entire contents of you fridge and pantry. You can start your day with this invigorating eye-opener any day of the week by simply replacing the alcohol with mushroom stock or vegetable broth, too. Now that’s what I’d call bloody good.
Wordless Wednesday: New Bites Around The Bay
Yuca Fries
Cashew Alfredo
Roasted & Raw
607 14th St.
Oakland, CA 94612
Tofu Sougar
Spinach Samosas
Artichoke & Pea Tagine
Savor Cafe
401 Irving St.
San Francisco, CA 94122
Do As You Peas
Standing in the kitchen, hands full of half-peeled zucchini in the dark of night, I’m trying to channel my grandmother circa 1984. Five years before I was born, President Ronald Reagan was in office, astronauts went on the first untethered space walk on the moon, and Apple made a splash with its infamous “1984” Macintosh commercial. It was also the year that Bon Appétit magazine published a recipe for Zucchini Cups Stuffed with Peas.
I know this because my grandmother so carefully clipped and preserved this relic of the past. It survived nearly four decades, multiple moves, deaths and births, whole lifetimes. Not once did I ever see zucchini cups with peas grace our table, and I can’t help but wonder…
Why? Why zucchini cups?
- Why was this recipe run in December, for starters, when neither zucchini nor peas would be in season?
- Why was this the standout dish my grandmother kept, of things?
- Why couldn’t I stop thinking about it, from the minute my mom unearthed it?
These questions have no answers.
My grandmother doesn’t remember the zucchini cups or what inspired her to file the recipe away. I’m okay with not knowing; some things just are that way, and I’m happy to have this taste of the past, maybe even better than what my grandmother had envisioned during her years of entertaining.
Small changes were necessary, of course, to veganize and enhance the original stuffed zucchini recipe with modern ingredients and technology.
- Butter is traded for peppery extra virgin olive oil.
- Dried tarragon gets axed in favor of verdant fresh herbs.
- Melon ballers belong only in museums at this point, so I reached for my trusty zucchini reamer instead (yes, that’s a thing)- Though you could very happily use a regular pairing knife here.
- Boiled zucchini sound downright dreadful, which is why the dry heat of the oven, which concentrates flavors and gently browns the surface, had much greater appeal.
The real beauty of the concept, however, is that it doesn’t take much to assemble or enjoy. I suppose they were intended to serve as appetizers or snacks for guests, as every good housewife should be ready to entertain at the drop of a hat, but I happen to think they make a fantastic side dish for any random weekday dinner, too.
If you have extra peas, those alone are brilliant to pair with just about any protein, such as a meatless loaf, balls, or cutlet, especially with creamy mashed potatoes or al dente pasta as a base. Beyond that, consider using them to top avocado toast, puree to use as a dip, or mash roughly to stuff into sandwiches.
I’m certain my grandmother never made the original recipe, but I hope I could still do her proud with my rendition. We don’t have many memories together, at least in recent years, so I’m grateful to keep making new ones now.
Sure Cure For Plant-Based Prosciutto
Sliced paper-thin to drape delicately over the finest charcuterie board, or directly into one’s mouth, prosciutto is a luxury of the highest order. Italians would throw hands over proper labeling of the stuff, especially those with esteemed pedigrees like Champagne or Parmesan, as products of Denomination of Protected Origin, AKA, DOP (Denominazione d’Origine Protetta.) This may be grounds for a fight, but I’d like to throw all that out the window to make genuine, inauthentic prosciutto that can be made anywhere in the world, not of meat, but of plants.
What Is Vegan Prosciutto?
Vegan prosciutto replicates the gossamer cured ham with a subtly seasoned brine, leaning on Sugimoto shiitake powder for an unmistakable umami flavor. Purely savory and rich, there’s no overt mushroom character to detract from the experience. That’s because through the drying process, the complex proteins are broken down into simpler amino acids, such as glutamate, which is responsible for their inherently meaty taste and aroma. This serves to amplify the other flavors in the same way that a touch of salt would; never so much to seem salty, but enough to boost the overall dish.
Inspired by The Gentle Chef’s innovative approach using rice paper as the base, I knew the opportunity for fine tuning to my own personal tastes was ripe. I couldn’t resist adding my “secret” ingredient of shiitake powder to fully capture the full bouquet of tastes that range from sweet to salty found in conventional cured ham. Pale pink, the fine strips glisten in the sunlight like jewels, piled daintily like the finest silks. Everything about the experience exudes an air of lavishness unlike anything else available for vegan alternative meats. This is a “DIY, don’t buy” situation if there ever was one.
Other Key Ingredients For Making Vegan Prosciutto
Given that it’s such a simple recipe, quality and attention to detail count.
- Square rice paper: More common in Vietnamese cuisine, this angular shape lends itself more readily to making even, consistent strips like thinly shaved prosciutto. Naturally, you can use round rice paper sheets instead if that’s all you can find. You might end up with some more abstract pieces is all.
- Mushroom soaking water: Never toss the water that you’ve used to rehydrate your shiitake mushrooms! It’s full of free glutamate, aka umami, ideal for making meaty soups, stews, and in this case, marinades. If you don’t have any on hand, you can substitute packaged mushroom broth or, in a pinch, plain water.
- Beet juice: Waste not, want not- I get my beet juice from cans of cooked, sliced beets. You could get cold pressed juice in the refrigerated section or make your own if you want to really go all out.
- Nutritional yeast: I’m sure no one is a stranger to the cheesy goodness that is nooch, but it may seem strange to call for it in a recipe for making mock meats. Suspend your disbelief! Just like Parmesan cheese, nutritional yeast is packed with umami flavor that works synergistically with the shiitake mushrooms to create new flavor compounds and amplify those inherently rich flavors.
- Olive oil: Do. Not. Omit. The oil. Genuine prosciutto is quite fatty, so we need to step up our game to match that level of decadence. Moreover, the rice paper will become downright gummy without it.
- Truffle oil: Yes, it’s worth the splurge. There’s room for more than one mushroom in this killer app, and there’s no substitute for the ambrosial fusion that happens when a few drops of this liquid gold enters the mix.
How To Serve Plant-Based Prosciutto
Best served cool or at room temperature, no cooking is needed to enjoy the rich, heady essence of meatless umami. Prosciutto is an ideal topper or accompaniment to many of your favorite dishes.
- Wrapped around melon slices and drizzled with balsamic glaze
- Draped over toasts, such as…
- BLT toast
- Almond ricotta toast
- Cucumber and cream cheese toast
- On top of pizza
- As a breakfast or brunch side with your favorite scramble
- Chopped and mixed into salads, such as…
- Leafy green salads
- Pasta salads
- Potato Salads
- On a charcuterie board or cheese board
My meatless prosciutto may not have an authentic Italian pedigree, but it brings its own unique richness to any table at a fraction of the cost, without any cholesterol, and free of harm. You can’t top that with any DOP seal.
